Activity Stream

Activity Stream

  1. rvsimons added a post in a topic Replacing windshield   

    The old stuff was smoked. The new it not. Thanks 
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  2. TJay added a post in a topic Replacing windshield   

    I think you'll be fine either way you put it. Is that smoked or grey lexan? I looks like the stuff I got form Wicks Aircraft. Looken good keep at it
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  3. Ramos added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 Engines   

    Heck, I'm arguably the least experienced/least knowledgeable person on this site. FWIW, I won't give a penny to any vendor who's tone puts me off. I honestly like what I see in the MA product line. However, slinging mud is a horrid form of promotion.
    Sing the virtues of your product and leave the insults at the door.
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  4. rvsimons added a post in a topic Replacing windshield   

    I hope this Lexan is not directional. I would hate to waste a bunch of this Polycarbonate 

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  5. EDMO added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 Engines   

    I'm not in this game, but sure that others are - How do you determine which vendor is truthful, and which is full of advertising BS?  I have tried to read all the posts to understand them.  Maybe one of my planes someday will be powered by one of these engines - I hope the smoke clears before then.   I did a lot of research back in the 1990s on Hi-Vo chain drives, like they use in screaming race car engines - even talked to one builder of Hi-Vo redrive for EA-81 engine in Nikiski Alaska and got plans from him, but never built one - I think they are probably the most "Bullet-proof", even better than the good cogged belt drive on my Dave Johnson engine and on Stratus engines,  but don't know a thing about clutches.   EDMO
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  6. MN Kitfox 2 added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 Engines   

    Talk about blowing smoke!!
    A lot of us here know Teal, and know how humble and great of a guy he is.
    I doubt he has made more than lunch money along the way for all the hard work he has done, and I'm sure he has no regrets... because he is not it this for the money.  He does all this development as a side hobby to his normal job.... all out of the love for the sport, the yamaha engine, and helping others. 
    This blowhard "fake news" bullshit of a rant you just posted shows alot Greg.
    I am sure everyone can read perfectly between your lines and see your true colors.
    As far as the reputation of Teal's kit,  I'll let the real world track record and results of those flying it speak for themselves.
    You know I've been a strong ally for you along the way... just look at the posts I've made here on your stuff.  But this is way out of line, (as was deleting the posts I made merely showing Teals products over on your Facebook Group).
    I want to continue to be your ally Greg, and you should want that too!  But sometimes it takes a friend to call you out when you are wrong.
    Delete it Greg... before it hurts you in the eyes of others....
    Delete it, and I'll delete this.
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  7. Mohawk Aero added a post in a topic Yamaha RX1 Engines   

    How ironic is this:  before I brought to his attention the fact that the RK400 guys require a tear-down inspection of their clutch every 75 hours, Teal didn’t know anything about it.
    This is a fundamental issue and concern for anyone making comparisons when considering available choices to hot-rod their aircraft by installing a Yamaha beastie. 
    Teal has designed and fabricated (2014) one thing, and one thing only, to date: an RX1 adapter which fits a Rotax C gearbox; which requires either a Rotax Hardy Disk (flex shaft coupling) or an RK400 aftermarket clutch designed specifically for use with this gearbox. 
    I designed and fabricated the first RX1 adapter (2012) two years earlier, which I used extensively with first an Arrow gearbox with internal sprag clutch, then an Air Trikes SPG4, more recently the Mohawk AK7 (based on the SPG4), and a single, lonely, solitary Rotax C in all of my 6 years of production of Yamaha adapters.
    Then in 2015 I designed, built and flew the pants off my Hy-Vo chain Silent Drive, with a prop-strike protection clutch no less.  The chain and gears have been field tested to over 300 HP.  It was perfect right off the bench, and remains so to this day.  It even suffered a prop strike, and the engine was saved, as was the PSRU!!!  That is not just a victory, it is HUGE, and I have bragging rights that no other PSRU builder known to man to this day can claim as a result of this major, accomplished work let alone a guy who has built and sold but a single design anything in the same period, to date. 
    There have been other, successful, PSRUs using Hy-Vo chain.  There have been other, successful PSRUs built with prop strike protection break-away clutches (Rotax 914 option $1300.00) but no one has ever put the two together before, let alone successfully. 
    That PSRU is attached to the Yamaha RX1 engine in the same, exact manner that my adapters are.  Not only that, it (because it is a prototype) was put together in sectional layers – FIVE OF THEM!
    Six years, unknown hundreds of hours, 100% perfect track record with ZERO evidence whatsoever to support the imaginary crap that Harvey the invisible rabbit dreamed up regarding adapter alignment and slip.  Someone is blowing smoke, and it is not me.  The ONLY advantage of a Skytrax one-piece adapter that can be proven by anyone in this room is that a one-piece adapter coming hot off a CNC table is ready to go.  Teal doesn’t have to do one more thing to it when it arrives in his hands from the sourced shop.  My collar-and-plate adapter requires several days of water-jet, milling, and aligning and pinning everything together.  Once that is done, anyone at all can install it, aligned correctly and reliably, just like a Skytrax adapter. 
    The only discernable advantage in a Skytrax adapter is to the seller himself, not the customer.  It does look pretty, so two points to Slytherin for aesthetics.  However, any advantage at all is lost to Gryffindore because the adapter is strictly limited to use of a Rotax C box and it’s associated shaft couplings which are proven beyond any doubt, by any yardstick, to be inferior to what can be bolted to a Yamaha using a Mohawk adapter.  It's all about choices, guys, and not being forced into a corner by your vendor.
    I don’t know how many Skytrax adapters have been sold/installed, and could care less.  Neither do I know or care if Teal has ever purchased for resale any RK400’s to go along with the sale of one of his adapters, and a gearbox.  No one can argue that one way or another RK400 clutches have been a topic of detailed discussion that Teal has been aware of and engaged in, often and long enough such that by now, at this late date, he has had more than ample opportunity to have done his homework and thoroughly familiarized himself with this unit which is so integral and crucial to his product sales - a component which is a primary, basic device required by nearly all of his customers from day one.
    With only one thing to do and sell for the last 2-3 years, how could this not be part of his knowledge base, how could this escape his attention?  The man’s got his agenda, that’s moot:  promote the pants off one gearbox, and one gearbox only, to the exclusion of all else.  He’s stickin to it, head in sand, that’s obvious. 
    It has become crystal clear that Teal doesn’t know the first thing about the clutched coupling required for his product – not at least until I told him so last month, and there’s the irony.
    Which begs the question: what does Teal know about the only other alternative to the RK400 clutch, the Rotax Hardy disk? 
    More importantly, what is he willing to tell you about it? 
    Last APRIL 2017 Teal Jenkins and I were both told by the same source, separately, this account:
    This prominent STOL builder/pilot tried to use a Hardy Disk with a 74” Prince prop, powered by a YG4 (RX1) using a Skytrax adapter.  After just 12 hours or so, he noticed something wrong and took everything apart.  The brand new Hardy disk had ripped through and through – catastrophic failure.
    There, maybe now it will return on this forum in a search for HARDY DISK FAILURE connected to a YAMAHA engine using a ROTAX C gearbox. 
    You see, before I came here in response to someone else already ripping me, I searched “Hardy disk failure” and then simply “Hardy Disk” on here and no news of that failure appeared anywhere.
    How many posts has Teal put up here since last April?  How much news has he generated in that time to educate you folks on the known dangers of using a Hardy disk in conjunction with his adapter? 
    I should have posted it here, but I really expected Teal to do and I didn’t want to come off as a prickly, nay-saying competitor bashing inferior equipment.  
    I did post the failure on Rotaryforum 4/28/17.  It got 120 looks, zero replies.  I also posted it on my Mohawk Aero Facebook group (Yamaha Aircraft Engines).
    I have built an adapter for only one customer using a Rotax C gearbox (RXC).  I don’t make enough money off gearbox sales to make it worth my trouble to promote any one over the other, they are all the same to me in that regard. 
    But I don’t use RXC not because this has anything to do with my competitor here, but rather because they don’t meet my spec - in any category.  If they met my spec, I’d use ‘em and sell ‘em till the cows came home, trust me.  I was building and selling RX1 adapters two full years before Teal Jenkins entered the scene as my direct competition.  No one, by any stretch of the imagination, can ever accuse me of sour grapes due to his intervention in my livelihood - the timeline simply doesn’t add up. 
    To date, my numerous choices for PSRU (including building my own Silent Drive) have been spot-on and I have been proven right, without a shadow of doubt, exactly 100% of the time with ZERO FAILURES of them in six years. 
    I say again, for the hard of hearing:  ZERO PSRU FAILURES in six years and countless hundreds of hours flying time by myself and my customers. 
    There have been no less than four documented accounts of Rotax gearbox bearing failure during the same period, at <50 hrs, 200 hrs, 300 hrs and 400 hrs. 
    Perhaps one of the most esteemed EAB folks in the country has suffered catastrophic failure on multiple occasions using Teal Jenkins’ combination of adapter, shaft connections and RXC.  One such failure was explained away as perhaps builder error.  I ask you, if a professional builder can’t put the RXC back on his adapter properly, how can Joe the Weekend Warrior be expected to do it every 75 hours?   
    Teal explained a RXC bearing failure on one of his kits to me this way:  The drive gear shaft bearings are so small that if the axial loading due to the helical cut of the gear faces loads only one of the two shaft bearings, that bearing is going to fail 100% of the time, guaranteed. 
    Other RXC experts and professionals have agreed, saying much the same thing. 
    The gearbox is an inferior design, plain and simple, for use with a 140 HP Yamaha RX1, let alone a 150 HP APEX.  You are required to tear it apart and remove the drive gear, shaft and shims just to install it.  Then you run the risk of not shimming the thing right when you put it back together, and that will destroy the bearings because taken alone they are too small to bear the load.   
    Perhaps you might not know that the gearbox was designed and assembled in the first place made to turn in the opposite direction that our Yamaha engines turn.    
    There have been countless other RXC failures, but they have largely been kept under wraps by self-serving dealers who fix and sell them.  There are so many accounts of RK400 excessive wear, spring failure, dog failure, screws coming loose and falling out that it is pointless to go into all the lurid details and list them individually here.  You all know what those issue have been, the risks involved, and you continue to use them anyway. 
    What I have brought to some eyes – including Teal Jenkins - is the intensive maintenance tear-down inspection requirements RK400’s carry with them.  Inspection requires an hour or two of labor, a new RXC gasket, and fresh oil (which needs to be changed anyway) and then WHEN – not if – it needs new shoes it will cost $150 (w/ S&H) for a new set, be that at 75 hours, 200 hrs, or whatever.  This is a certain eventuality much as any other friction shoe clutch or brake set requires. 
    The reason I don’t use Rotax C has nothing to do with Teal Jenkins or his tunnel-vision adapter.  My reasoning is/was/has been based on the facts below considered when first exploring various PSRU solutions, and should be the same facts anyone considers when building a high-performance aircraft conversion engine and installation.
    First, Rotax C (RXC):   
    1.     Numerous known bearing failures under 400 hours, on Yamaha and other engines
    2.     not rated for any horse power. 
    3.     rated for prop inertia mass of 6000kg/sq cm.  (Check with your prop dealer to make certain your prop is within this spec.)
    4.     Shaft OD and bearing ID size is 25 mm diameter
    5.     requires disassembly in order to install or remove it
    6.     Associated (alternative) RK400 clutch requires tear down inspection every 75 hrs, which requires RXC tear down.  RK400 clutch shoes will wear out, and replacement cost is $150.  Numerous documented failures when used with Yamaha RX1, though power to the prop has been maintained during flight in most cases. 
    7.     RXC cost is $1625 – 1750.  No longer generally available unless you provide a Rotax engine serial number and falsely claim you intend to use it on that, likely due to Rotax becoming aware of gearbox failures when used with Yamaha engines. 
    8.     RXC requires major machining in order to adapt it for suitable use on conversion engines and keep installed lengths to a minimum.  Cost for machining at a typical shop $200.00
    9.     RXC flex shaft coupling is on a 76 mm bolt pattern, and was designed in 1960 for use on small cars producing ~100 HP category, as a half shaft joint.  They are intended to be replaced periodically and when they fail they fail completely.  They are round in sectional profile, like a donut.  Known failures have occurred when used with Yamaha RX1 conversions running 80-85% power in cruise and WOT climb.
    10.  RX1 adapters available:  Mohawk Aero GTA (2012) collar-plate; Skytrax (2014) uni-part
    11.  APEX adapters available:  Mohawk Aero GTI (2016) collar-plate
    Comparison:  Mohawk AK7 (and Air Trikes SPG4) gearbox
    1.     No known bearing failures to date
    2.     Rated and guaranteed by manufacturer to 180HP
    3.     Inerital mass rating 9000kg/sq cm
    4.     Shaft OD/ bearing ID 40 mm
    5.     Gearbox is not disassembled for installation/removal from engine
    6.     Associated (alternative) BMW clutch requires tear down inspection w/ costs similar to RK400.
    7.     PSRU cost is ~ $1800.00.  Usually in stock, and always available from Mohawk Aero.  
    8.     No machining required, total final cost of PSRU is the same as RXC
    9.     Flex shaft coupling used is newer BMW part intended for damping driveshaft harmonics on 300 HP autos. Bolt pattern 78 mm.  Sectional profile square, giving the part twice as much load-bearing material as RTX “Hardy disk”. No known failures on any propeller drive installations to date up to 200 HP
    10.  RX1 adapters available:  Mohawk Aero GTA (2012) collar-plate and Mohawk Aero uni-part (replaces crankcase cover)
    11.  APEX adapters available:  Mohawk Aero GTI (2013)   
    In closing, I developed a new clutch in 2017 to be used on my Yamaha conversion kits.   On paper, it should see 1000 Hrs TBO.  The first design  (January 2017) had some flaws.  First the seal blew out of one end at WOT.  Then the gearbox harmonics forced the clutch roller race to walk on the outer drum and become misaligned after 8 hours at 80% power.  I fixed those problems by redesign, and have tested it for over 20 hours without any problems.   The earlier failures did not decouple power to the prop at any time, and were easily detected upon simple sound, visual and touch inspection (turning the prop) after shutting the engine down.  We will continue to test and put hours on them, and report the total time accumulated and any/all successes or issues.  
    2018 GT4 Roller clutches are being readied as of this writing, and are expected to be available late December.  Of course, as always, all of my products are covered by a 100% money-back guarantee of satisfaction for at least one-year or 100 hours, whichever comes first.  That includes all engines I sell with my kits.  GT4 clutch guarantee works like a tire warrantee:  First year/100 hours 100% satisfaction money back or replacement guarantee. After the first year, for 4 more years or a total 500 hours, value is reduced by useful life wear. Cost is $695.  No tear-down inspections required, all pre-flight and inpsection can be done by listening, looking through the PSRU inspection holes, and turning the prop by hand.   
    Mohawk Aero will not sell GT4 clutches to anyone who has not purchased a gearbox and adapter from us.  We  originally also sold sprag clutches, and although we have suspended testing and production on them in order to do a better job putting hours on the GT4  we may at some point return to offering sprags for sale at a later date.  
    All of this being said, here's the bottom line:  You might be able to run a RXC with a hardy disk or RK400 and never have any trouble.  You might go for 200 hrs and not even have to replace clutch shoes.  It all depends on your particular build, maintenance and operation of the aircraft.  Some equipment is better than others - there can be no doubt about it, and the choice is left to you to decide what you find most desirable.  In the end it is all "Experimental", and that is why we are not flying certificated aircraft.  I did not come here to dump on anyone or anything, but in my view some things have been said that are personally damaging and seriously misleading, and other things have been left unsaid which are also misleading as well as potentially dangerous to limb, limb and aircraft if left unknown and unaccounted for.  No one can make an informed decision concerning anything if you don't first have all the facts before you, presented in an unbiased manner - to at least some acceptable degree.  I hope I have done justice to remaining open-minded here, and that you perceive my long-winded, open letter here as such.  
    Thanks for reading this.  I leave you to consider all viable options now in peace, goodwill and harmony, and sincerely hope you join us on Facebook  where we explore the possibilities for the future of Yamaha aircraft conversions and share our  builds, to the exclusion of all else.   With warm regards to one and all, and may the force be with you...  
    Yours very truly,
    GT Mills
    PS:  When I reduced chain tension on the Mohawk Silent Drive, it became impossible to start the engine.  When I properly adjusted the chain tensioner to remove all slack, it started up just fine.  With a gearbox, backlash is not adjustable, and must always be present.  You can never get a gearbox to run without it, whereas you always remove all of that slap on a chain drive.  I proved that the less slap, the better the YG4 starts, and the more the slap the worse it starts.  Two gears is x amount of slap at start up.  Three gears is twice as much slap as two, not just 1/3 more.   I suspect that Teal is about to find out that his three-gears are going to exacerbate the rough starting we have to deal with when using a 12:1 compression Yamaha thoroughbred.  Three gears is twice as much harmonic vibration, twice the noise, twice as much loss of HP due to axial loading, and more weight.  Anyone wanting to weigh in on why I chose to build a Hy-Vo chain drive 3 years ago, and then finish and fly it 2015, instead of going with a three-gear solution to raise the prop shaft on a Yamaha conversion kit, be my guest - I'm all ears.    
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  8. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Cowl/muffler interference   

    Another thing you could do is hang the muffler off the firewall.  The factory mount it prone to cracking, both of mine broke from the vibration.  Here is a picture showing a heat muff on the muffler, but if you look at the ends of the muffler, you see plates welded on that rubber mount to angels on the firewall.  JImChuk

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  9. nlappos added a post in a topic Cowl/muffler interference   

    My Mk4/582 does exactly  that. There was enough flexure in the whole the muffler assembly that I could pull it straight aft about 1/2” with a few wraps of safety wire from the bottom of the circular  muffler bracket (shown in your photo ) to a screw I put in the bottom of the firewall. 
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  10. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Matco Fat Tailwheel trashed   

    I'm part owner in an 11 BC Chief as well as the other stuff, and we started getting a tailwheel shimmy at times.  It's got a Scott 3200 so it's a real good tailwheel.  The shimmy went away when we put a new tail spring on that made the castor correct.  The old spring had sagged over the years (or hard landings it experienced).  Probably lots of different reasons why a shimmy can start, but I think ours was from the sagging spring.  JImChuk
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  11. Buckchop added a post in a topic Avid Bush tshirt?   

    Sent out the $ today, sorry took so long i spaced it out. And been busy with the kid gettin suspended from school and all the snow we just got, least he was around to help shovel and plow snow. Lol   Thanks again Bucky
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  12. Mohawk Aero added a post in a topic YAMAHA APEX (EFI) 150HP 118# Engines   

    Time to update this thread!  Mohawk Aero's 2018 GT4 Roller ramp clutches are coming out very soon. I am done with the drawings, and converting them for CNC machining as of this writing.  Updates (should I go with geek-speak and call this the GT4.2 update?) include, among other things:             
    Dual idler bearings (front & rear)(Steel-sleeved) rubber-bonded drive-stud pockets to damp vibration and allow for minor misalignment in all directions: radial, axial, and angular.  Kinda like merging "the rubber donut" with a clutch!     
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  13. akflyer added a post in a topic Matco Fat Tailwheel trashed   

    The only time I have ever had tailwheel shimmy is when something got loose or the castor angle was too far out of whack.  The spring mounting bolts on the fuse got loose and created a good shimmy on me but that's about it.  I have run with and without springs, compression springs, loose chains, tight chains etc.  Pay attention to the different sized springs and which side you put them on.  using a geared engine you would put them on the opposite side of what you would a conventional engine.
    I do get the tail off the ground ASAP with full down elevator to get the drag cleaned up and accelerate faster.  I also almost never wheel land, I drag it in more often than not 1 point  

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  14. akflyer added a post in a topic lights   

    I would say worst case, you could use a couple relays and have the controller run the relays.  Not sure how they will hold up top constant use but you can get a prewired relay for the lights for around 8 bucks off amazon.  I had originally wired the lights on my side x side direct to the switch but had a flickering issue.  I used the relay and now they don't flicker or trip out on me.  The biggest thing to remember is the load on the stator.. its only 170 watts tops so bear that in mind when sizing your lights. 

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  15. Chris Bolkan added a post in a topic Matco Fat Tailwheel trashed   

    Hi Ron,
    Different springs on the chains may change the characteristics of shimmy and maybe affect the onset of shimmy, but all you are really doing by changing springs is changing the amount of spring, not adding friction. Friction damping is the ONLY way to ensure the system won't shimmy. If the tail wheel assembly itself does not have a provision for adjusting the amount of friction required to move the tire back and forth, so you can critically dampen the resonance of the system, it will shimmy at some point.
    There is a company now (maybe more than one) that offers a big ass tail wheel that has no steering chains or springs at all. I think they got the idea for it from the RV style nose gear that is not connected to rudder pedals. The RV nose gear would shimmy like mad if it weren't for a couple of big bellville washers that you are supposed to tighten down until it takes about 10LB of force to move the wheel back and forth at all. Differential breaking is used to force the wheel to turn. That large amount of friction prevents the wheel from ever developing a shimmy in the first place. Same with that big ass tail wheel it operates solely on friction. No amount of springs, castor angle change or anything else will absolutely prevent shimmy. Only enough friction to critically dampen the resonance of the spring/lever/tire weight combination.
    It took quite a while to get my head around what is actually going on, but now that I understand it seems so simple. The potential for shimmy can only be eliminated with friction, not changing spring rate or mass or moment arm or castor angle. Those things only change the frequency of shimmy and maybe change the conditions of onset. Friction (enough opposition to the back and forth movement of the tire) is the only sure cure for shimmy.
    Unfortunately not all tail wheel manufacturers have the provision to adjust friction. Only ones that do provide a friction adjustment can be positively set up not to shimmy.
    That's my experience anyway! :-)
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  16. MN Kitfox 2 added a post in a topic Bad Landing, Failed Landing Gear, Missed Inspection?   

    You stole my after landing checklist !!

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  17. EDMO added a post in a topic "FOXY FLAPPER" FOTOS   

    Loved the 'Coupe video - Just not the right plane to take to Alaska - held on to my 415C for a few years, asking wife if we were coming back to Missouri - The month I sold the Coupe, she told me we were moving back! - My wives didn't like planes!  Oh - I didn't have JATO...  EDMO
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  18. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic lights   

    I've been running the Vision X lights on a Crazed Pilot controller in all three modes, wig-wag, strobe and continuously since the Mangy has been flying.
    The controller has worked flawlessly.
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  19. rvsimons added a post in a topic lights   

    I’ve ran these on the Crazed Pilot Controller three times for extended periods and it seems to handle them well. This same controller runs two 48 head LED wing lights on my Zenith 701 with no problem. I have a hard time believing it will not handle two 6 head lights with 1/4 of the wire length. I could use a car flasher but they are heavy. If I’m wrong I burn up a relatively cheap controller. So far it seems to handle it. We shall see. I’m by no means an electrical guru. In fact I’m at the other end of the spectrum. 

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  20. zadwit added a post in a topic "FOXY FLAPPER" FOTOS   

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  21. EDMO added a post in a topic Step 2, Build Magnum!!   

    Thanks for the post Ron - I was beginning to think that some might be thinking that the meds were affecting my thinking (what am I saying?) about there being 3 types of Magnum tips - Glad to have them validated.   EDMO
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  22. akflyer added a post in a topic lights   

    I use the vision X light but in all fairness, any time I do any night flying and really need a landing light it is in the winter on skis and they really light up the snow.  I have never tried them as landing lights on anything but snow as it does not get dark here in the summer
    I have the crazed pilot controller but have never hooked it up for the wig wag.  I really need to do that as it seriously helps for recognition.  For those wondering, I went for the high tech mounting method on my landing gear leg.. an Adel clamp

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  23. RDavidson added a post in a topic Matco Fat Tailwheel trashed   

    Did you go with different sized compression type springs on the chains to dampen the shimmy?
    I’m running a Maule pneumatic tailwheel and tire now and I don’t have a shimmy anymore, but I think I used different sized springs this time which probably helped...
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  24. Chris Bolkan added a post in a topic Matco Fat Tailwheel trashed   

    I learned that the only thing that will cure tail wheel shimmy is lots of friction damping. And it makes sense if you really think about it. Changing castor angle will only slightly change the conditions under which shimmy might occur. It took me a long time to figure out that a shimmy is exciting a resonance in a mechanical tuned system of spring(s) and weight. Just like an inductor and capacitor in an electrical circuit. Without a damping resistor the electrical circuit can resonate if excited. Without mechanical damping (lots of friction in the back and forth movement of the tail wheel) it WILL shimmy under the right conditions regardless of castor angle. I went down the castor angle black hole ultimately to learn that the only REAL cure for tail wheel shimmy is resistive damping. 
    Happy your plane is OK!
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  25. wypaul added a post in a topic New Play Toys   

    You are right about that Joey.  My Avid is a little faster and burns less than half the fuel of SQ2 but boy will they land slow and short to say nothing of carrying one big load.  They are also very docile on the runway and stable in the air. I would love to own one if I had a boat load of money.  A friend of mine owns BCSC and is a great guy.  I think I may have mentioned that he has a welder that works for him that worked at Avid for years.
    i don't know Jim, it sounds like your gig is pretty sweet.  I think this retirement thing is alright what do you think?
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