Allen, if I get it going in a month, I’ll come and help you. I’m a firm believer in having goals that are hard to reach. Anyway, I can work on it as much as I need to for the next 35 days. No problem getting it done in 300-400 hours. I do have it all disassembled, but three weeks ago, I was taxiing it around the yard, so it’s not like it was a basket case. Just needed some TLC, and I’m trying to be thorough.
I did a 50% pre stretch (starting with 20 cm pulling it to 30 cm) before applying the wrapping and yes I did a double wrapping. I don't think it is needed to prevent slipping but if one wire breaks hopefully the other still holds.Have been using them for over 3 years and done some pretty bad landings without seeing any degradation in the wrappings or tendency to slippage.
This little tool makes it really easy to make the wrapping. I would say say the time to make it is almost gained back when making the second set.
A little neoprene glue add to the friction between the cords.
A simple cotton band glued with textile glue protects the wrappings. And a shrink rapping gives a nice final touch as well as protection.
...and I just made 5 new sets for Avid pilot friends here in France... I have also made a new set of "horisontal-between-the-landing-legs-bungees-to-replace-the-seat-struss-breaking-safety-wire" using the same wrapping method. I think wire wrapping is less agressive to the bungees than the metal clamps.
The right brake had a broken pad, and the caliper bolts had rubbed on the wheel, for some reason. I’ll have to investigate that a little further, to make sure it doesn’t happen again. It could have jammed a piece of broken brake pad, pushing it to one side. The wheel bearing should have been tighter, which could also have caused it to rub. I did go up to 158 main jets in the carb. Moved the needles to the top notch. Looks like he had to back off the throttle with the fine pitched prop, so richened the midrange by dropping the clip on the needle, but leaned it out on the top end with 145 main jets. I have 45 pilot jets, 8L2 needle, and 2.74 needle jet. Haven’t checked the air idle screw, yet. I figure I’ll be putting a stiffer prop on it, so I want the bigger jets to get enough fuel on the top end. I’m a big fan of getting enough fuel at wide open throttle. I once melted down a Ski-Doo Summit 700. It was tuned good, not a jetting problem, but the result really made an impression on me. About five seconds at wide open throttle, crossing a muskeg, and the pistons melted to the point that the piston rings came up off the pistons, and tapped the spark plug, closing the gap. Cracks in the carb boots let air in, giving it enough oxygen to burn the tops of the pistons off in a matter of seconds. Don’t fool around with cracked rubber on your carbs. If it’s not perfect, replace it. Speaking of props, I’ve had a hard time getting a good recommendation for my 52 hp B box 503. It seems like people pay attention to diameter, but not pitch. Has anyone tried a Tennessee two blade? If I go with a two blade, I’d probably go with wood, for the vibration factor. I emailed for a quote on a Warp Drive, and they responded that I’d be better off with an Ultraprop, which I had been discouraged from getting. The props they recommended were 60”, which again seemed underkill. 2.58 is a good ratio. I’d like to have a decent sized prop.
All the rolled up extra wire in this plane is ridiculous. Probably twice the amount of wire that was needed. I guess they never heard of voltage drop. I’m tidying it up as I go along. Tried the skis on for size while I worked on the brakes. They’re nice, but they’re 600 pounds apiece. I might improve the design, or drill some lightening holes. I can’t find 1/8” aircraft birch plywood in the state. I ended up buying some 1/8” mahogany. Cut a couple false ribs, then aborted the project, because the ply didn’t pass muster. It was like ply and a half, with cork (maybe basswood) sandwiched between, instead of the five ply that’s on it. Had to go to Kenai for work, today, so only got a couple hours working on it. I think that tomorrow I’ll do the welding work. Doublers on the struts and move the attaching points on the brake pedals. Still plenty to do, but I’m starting to need the plywood and fuel tanks, so I can proceed with the big stuff. That, plus a number of things that were backordered; crankshaft bearings, carb boots, and a few other little things. Oh, and the panel fits in the tank, but the mounting bolts are an inch off on one side. Easy to fix, anyway. Back to work. It’s not midnight yet.
Hello! In response to YouTube comments by Jim Chuck, TJay Larsen and John Durham I am starting this thread to log the technical side of my restoration of the 1000th Kitfox EVER(!).
Unfortunately the right flaperon detached on take-off this May and the airplane was badly damaged, the ATP pilot did stop the engine before impact thank goodness so it appears to be OK. My first question is: is it OK to run the engine (Rotax 912UL with slipper clutch) without the prop to confirm that it does in fact run? OR should I wait until I can afford two new blades for the IVO prop? Thanks, Nile McMillion Here's my YouTube Channel: Nile McMillion | YouTube If you want to support what I'm doing: Help Restore Kitfox 1000!
Your wire wrap looks great, but may be twice as long as needed. Note that this type of bungee cord can stretch fully 100% of its original length. Slippage of the shock cord inside the wire wrap will occur if the cord is not stretched sufficiently when wrapped, since the long end will shrink in diameter when stretched. If stretched beyond the condition at which it was wrapped, it will slip, shrinking the eye. Fred double-wraps his ends; I think this is a good idea. I built a wooden gantry with 6:1 purchase using pullies, which allowed me to re-rig the bungees without help. I shied away from heat-shrink, and just used electrical tape.
Checking my flaps, I got a similar result. Made me wonder how to even get more than 15 degs flap deflection. Hey, congrats on getting your issues ironed out! Great pix, too! BTW, I am very close to putting the OI system in play. Gotta burn off 10+gallons of premix first! Again, thanks!
It probably was mentioned, but especially on pavement, your toe in is real critical. If one wheel is way off, it could make for and interesting ride. 0 to 1/8" toe out is considered to be about right. I forgot to check my new High Wing gear for this when I installed it, so did that today. Turned out it was right at 1/8" toed out. Flew for a while this evening, and both landings were on my strip, so no pavement there.
Thanks for the kind words Matt. I love the way mine turned out exactly how I dreamed it to be. I started with an 1985 unstarted kit I bought from Jim Chuk then built the airplane I wanted to see around it. And about those tanks I think there quite light weight. Maybe 4 to 5 lbs a piece would be my guess.
That would be the opposite side of the runway. Don't look at anything else. One more thing I did Was to do all my take offs on pavement and landed on the grass. I guess I figured if things go wrong just keep the power in and get it off the ground. I don't really care for 3 point landings on pavement it seems easier to just fly it in till the wheels squeak. On grass I have tried the 3 point because you are so much slower works good there but still prefer wheel landings. will do 50 wheel landings to 1 three point. thats just me and I am very green to tail wheels