Activity Stream

Activity Stream

  1. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Next mod=VG's   

    Take one of those small 6" long bungee cords that they sell in the camping section at Walmart. Tie two knots in the middle with about an inch apart. Put 3 zip ties around your stick about 1" apart with the buckle facing toward the front of your plane. Hook the bungee on the cross member. You can move the bungee up and down the stick on your zip ties for more or less tension. I've been using this technique for 200 hours and it's very effective and incredibly simple. I have my flaperons rigged so that I'm almost hands off at cruise but any reduction in power causes mine to head for the earth too. The bungee works great to make up for this.
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  2. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Airventure   

    Red shirt is the tough one: Dave. The guy that helped with my repairs and is currently building a Avid C/Kitfox IV hybrid - Avi-bond mark I.
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  3. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Needle Tachs suck!   

    Bryce call em they are very helpful and will make sure you get the right one.
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  4. BryceKat added a post in a topic Needle Tachs suck!   

    After reading this post, i think i'm suffering the same problem by relying on a westach. So i ordered a tiny tach. The unit isn't here yet, but i was reading the online instructions
    and was wondering how many sparks per revolution, and i think it's 4 on a 582 grayhead. Is that correct? Thanks, Bryce
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  5. LASsociety added a post in a topic Next mod=VG's   

    Hi all,

    I have been meaning to post, but havent had a chance. My Avid is a little heavy and near the forward CG limit when I fly. (this is according to the C.G. data that came with the plane, but I haven't personally weighed the A/C to find out if the numbers are right) I have looked behind with the door off while flying and can see that the elevator it deflected up a few degrees when flying level. Also I have to hold a tiny bit of back pressure on the stick, and if I let go it starts a very gentle dive. (no pitch trim installed, trim tab only) All of this seems consistent with a nose heavy plane. I added five pounds to the tail but after calculations, it showed that it only makes roughly 1 inch of CG difference. Right now its about 12.5 inches aft datum when flying. I was suprised that the weight seemed to have almost no effect on the flying characteristics or trim. I don't seem to "run out" of elevator when landing, or have any real controllability problems, Otherwise it seems to fly really well. (I have noticed at lower speeds when I pull flaps in I need significantly more back pressure on the stick, which is a bit awkward. I end up landing zero flaps) Im just concerned about getting the trim well balanced. Also its nice not to have to hold back pressure for long periods of time. The more weight I add the lower my useful load, so I was thinking about adding the VGs to my horizontal to see if that helps. Seems like this might provide more total downforce at high elevator deflections, but nearly nothing for cruise trim? I guess nothing will actually correct it but adding more weight to the tail, but that will start to cut into my ability to carry a passenger. Just curious about your thoughts and observations from the work you have all done so far. What normal cg range is are all of your planes when loaded for flight? If I add pitch trim, how do you all have the control set up in the cockpit for simplicity and where did you find room for it?

    Thanks in advance

    I think my airspeed is very accurate because when I bought it the static source was the cockpit. I found that the air disturbances around the cockpit gave innacurate airspeed indications due to venturi effect around the cockpit giving an atrificially high pitot to static comparison. .01 PSI is equal to 60 MPH of airspeed indication (thats right .01!) So I added a pitot static mast in the original pitot location so the pitot static comparison is taken at the exact sxame location. There should be no total dynamic pressure variations at different locations since they are one and the same now. It is a bit difficult to fully stall (which adds fuel to the nose heavy scenario) but when I stall its around 35 MPH indicated.

    Im really happy with my Avid so far and have been having lots of fun. Looking forward to your inputs.

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  6. Russ. added a post in a topic Airventure   

    Left to right, Lary, Russ, Doug, and Brett. Sitting red shirt ??. Russ.
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  7. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Airventure   

    A healthy handshake and a pat on the back to anyone who can identify this Motley Crew...

    Photo taken at the Avid Lunch at Airventure.
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  8. DBVZ added a post in a topic Where to buy Speedwing 18 gal tank?   

    I expect the Avid Speedwing may be about the most extreme situation, with a single 18 gal tank in a wing that is quite short.
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  9. dholly added a topic in For Sale and wanted, you got it, I want it   

    Rotax 582UL DCDI Mod 99 LC Firewall Forward Power Package


    For Immediate Sale:

    Just removed off my recently retired Kitfox III. Features a Rotax 582UL DCDI 65HP Blue cylinder head model 99 liquid cooled 2-cylinder, 2-stroke engine and Rotax ‘C’ Gearbox with 2.62:1 ratio gear set. This engine is a very strong runner and there are no known issues with this engine, gearbox or other items offered herein. Includes everything firewall forward exactly as shown in the attached photos, PLUS Rotax double air filter, belly radiator and coolant hoses not pictured. Heck, I'll even toss in the firewall if you need or want it. (Note: the CHT and EGT instrument senders are not included, the cowl and prop previously sold).

    Yes, this aircraft engine is nearly new with only 68.2 documented hours! The engine was run-in following Rotax recommended break-in procedures, operated using Amsoil synthetic oil and maintained per Rotax recommended schedules since new. Easily passed all compression, carbon and bore scope checks at the most recent annual condition inspection less than 10hrs operating ago. New plugs and throttle cable carb boots were installed, the gearbox oil replaced and ACS gascolator rebuilt with auto gas compatible gasket and SS mesh screen at that time as well. The stock unit has been replaced with a high output Key West regulator rectifier. The engine cylinders and carbs have been properly fogged with storage oil and all ports plugged. A coating of light oil has been applied to metal components as rust preventative while awaiting installation in your project.

    If you have been searching for a great deal on a complete power package with a very low time engine, here is your opportunity. The cost for a bare 582 UL DCDI mod 99 engine and 2.62:1 C-box new is over $7500 at CPS today. That's before adding the necessary (and expensive!) items like electric starter, radiator, air filters, injection oil tanks etc... yeah, you know it all adds up quick! No worries, you can buy this nearly new plug 'n play power package for WAY less.

    Listed locally asking $4,250/OBO, however, I would like to free up shop space and funds for another project so... the first no-dicker $3,950 offer I receive gets everything mentioned above PLUS the following additional items for FREE:

    1. Vernier throttle
    2. Fuel primer system
    3. Engine choke system
    4. Starter solenoid
    5. Extra pulse pump (for back-up)
    6. Extra exhaust gasket set (for cylinder ring/carbon inspection through exhaust ports)

    Interested? Click on my user name and send me a Private Message with your name and telephone number and best time to reach you. I'll call you to discuss and address any questions you may have. Please, no traders or tirekickers, serious buyers only.

    *PLEASE NOTE: Priced for local pick-up, delivery or shipping not included. I can facilitate but Buyer is responsible for any crating, shipping, pickup or delivery arrangements etc. and all expenses associated thereof.

    Thanks for looking.

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  10. dholly added a topic in For Sale and wanted, you got it, I want it   

    Rotax 582UL DCDI Mod 99 LC Firewall Forward Power Package
    Oops, double post!

    [Mod please delete]
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  11. dholly added a post in a topic 582 Grayhead vs Bluehead   

    >>> CLICK HERE <<< to listen to a UltraFlight Radio show where Ronnie Smith of South Mississippi Light Aircraft describes what it would take to convert an older Rotax 582 engine into the newer model 99 Blue Head. Ronnie goes through all of the steps it takes and then offers another solution.
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  12. akflyer added a post in a topic Where to buy Speedwing 18 gal tank?   

    Any plane with a single tank can have a slight rolling moment when the tank is full, but it is not very pronounced. I have a few hundred hours in a kitfox with only one wing tank and I never even really noticed it.

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  13. akflyer added a post in a topic 582 Grayhead vs Bluehead   

    The crank is the same, the blue head has the ceramic seal. The issue with that is the rubber seals will cut into the RV shaft if you use regular anti freeze and tap water. With extended life (silica free) anti freeze and distilled water, the problem goes away and you dont eat the RV shaft. They also added an additional cooling circuit to the blue head with a bypass line. The grey head will do you just fine if it is low time. Throw a set of seals on the crank and fly the crud out of it!

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  14. DBVZ added a post in a topic Where to buy Speedwing 18 gal tank?   

    This inquiry is about availability, to add a second tank to an Speedwing with only a right tank that I am interested in buying. I have not flown it yet. I expect some right banking with a full right tank, but solo you balance it a little. Someone who is flying a single tank Speedwing can give a better answer.
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  15. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Cabane gear installed   

    Thanks for the info and vid Bandit!! My trailer is 84" wide on the deck sweet!!
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  16. C5Engineer added a post in a topic 582 Grayhead vs Bluehead   

    Not a huge difference between the two. The two biggest differences are the Blue head had a Thermostat installed to help prevent cold seizures. It's available for the grey head. The second big improvement was the Ceramic water pump seal mod. The grey heads were notorious for that seal leaking which would mix RV fluid with coolant. There are lots of people out there machining the block to accept the new seal. I've heard there also differences in the Crank size between the two but I am not positive of that. I put 30 hours on my grey head before going to a blue head. With the two mods mentioned above they are essentially the same. The guy I bought my FWF from put 2200 documented hours on that engine before I got which speaks volumes.
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  17. akflyer added a post in a topic I went to Airventure 2011   

    putting the grove gear in is cheating hahahaha. But if ya had it laying there it would have been dumber to not put it on!

    Nice Job Larry, glad your back in the air!!

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  18. Bandit added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    582 Grayhead vs Bluehead
    What is the difference between the older 582 Grayhead compared to the new Bluehead. I might have a chance to buy a 582 Grayhead FWD. Or is the Bluehead much better?
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  19. Bandit added a post in a topic Cabane gear installed Check out my new video "Avid Flyer Taxi Test"
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  20. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic I went to Airventure 2011   

    The finished product. Here she is on the scales.

    Since we all know that the bungee gear is shit, I used the Grove gear from my project plane and installed it on my flyer. Holy cow!!! What a difference in the brakes alone, much less the ground handling. Now all I need is a set of 8.50 x 6.00 tires to bring the AOA back to where it needs to be...

    For the record, she only gained 8 (eight) pounds on the empty weight.
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  21. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic I went to Airventure 2011   

    Ever thought of a retractable Kitfox? I have...

    Cycling the gear.


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  22. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic I went to Airventure 2011   

    I'm on a roll...

    Here's the finished product.

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  23. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic I went to Airventure 2011   

    Doug - What's to inspect? Use plywood. It's lighter and cheaper.

    Inserting the new material.

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  24. dholly added a post in a topic Ribs   

    1.) That was how my Mk-IV manual said to do it.
    2.) It facilitates installation of the metal trailing edge and, IMHO, provides a 'shoulder' to catch the metal which helps prevent 'oil-canning' and keep everything straight when shrinking the fabric.

    I would add that the construction manual for early Avids with the trailing wire (aka. the 'batwings') and some C models DID instruct to leave the capstrip at least partially intact all the way to the rib tail end. It called for tapering the top capstrip width wise, beginning at the trailing edge wire (full width) to the end of the rib tail (web width) using a straight taper. I believe the change in construction method came with the Mk-IV manual.

    But, of course, it's all Experimental so do as you please!

    [edit] P.S. Russ , kinda hard to see exactly what you did in that wing pic from, do you have a better pic?

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  25. efil 01 added a post in a topic Where to buy Speedwing 18 gal tank?   

    hello, do you feel a left banking when you fly full single tank?
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