Activity Stream

Activity Stream

  1. racegunz added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV   


    Well I'm waiting for the man with the avid to send me some more pics to see if its worth the drive to go and see, also been looking at a kitfox 4 kit but he wants too much (in my humble opinion) if I decide on the kit fox I'll give you a shout. I don't know if it would work on the avid or not??
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  2. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Need some verification   

    My stick does move a little bit.. I was wondering what was causing that. What works to lube the flaperon hinges?
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  3. akflyer added a post in a topic Need some verification   


    have you disconnected the flaperons just inside the fuse at the top of the control rod and checked that each flaperon takes the same force to move up and down? if one is a little sticky, I can see it not moving as much as the other and giving you a bit of an asymetrical roll input when you pull the flaps on. Mine had a sticky flaperon and when I pulled the flaps on, the control stick would go full left if I was not hanging onto it. if this is playing into your rolling issues or not.


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  4. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Need some verification   


    Leni I have my flaperons set up so that mine flies hands off with the flaps full up and about 57-5800 rpm. I can only trim nose down. If I'm flying down low I pull on some flap to relieve the roll forces and just hold back pressure. The issue I'm having is when I pull on a couple of degrees I get a fairly strong rolling moment to the right and I can't figure out why. It also takes WAY more rudder to coordinate a turn to the right. It almost takes top pedal to keep the ball centered when I turn to the left. I knew it would be different but it seemed a little excessive to me.

    There's only two nylocks on the mixer box. The one where the flaperon linkage connects to the mixer box should be a castle not sure now I missed that. The one where the rod ends are I left a nylock because up until recently I was playing with my flaperon settings a lot and got tired of pulling a pin in and out. There's very little movement there unless your pulling flaps on and off all the time which I don't.

    The only reason I can see why I'm getting a roll is one flap is coming on more than the other. I need to get out my control surface throw and try different flap settings and see exactly what they are doing and why. Looking at the linkage everything appears to be working perfectly symmetrical.

    Jack can you circle on one of those pictures where I should have the big washers? I set it back up the exact way it was when I got the airplane but that does not mean it's right by any means. Also no I wasn't still working on it I took these pics right before I flew yesterday. I've put 48 hours on it like this but if it's wrong I'd like to fix it. The builders manual sucks for stuff like this and I'm still learning.
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  5. akflyer added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV   


    I dont think it would work for me. I am not sure if the firewall pattern is the same or not. I would probably be better off just starting from scratch as the new engine has exhaust and intake on the same side etc... But thanks for the offer!


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  6. horsepower added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV   

    I was going to sell it at first but if someone really needs it you pay the freight and its yours.It came with my 582 when I bought it and it wont work on my Skyraider.If Leni doesnt want it for his engine build then let me know and its yours.Randy
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  7. racegunz added a post in a topic How to tell if it's a MKIV   


    If he doesn't want it I might, what would you want for it?
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  8. akflyer added a post in a topic Pic request   


    Hey Mike

    Thanks for the info, and yes, your right, I did have my grubby little dick skinners on Jacks pedals.... hmm... that almost sounds real bad don't it. I meant his brake pedals that you built

    If I go back on wheels I will get a set from you. Looks like I could save you some time if I send in my old ones and have you modify them At any rate, I am deffinately into more braking power as mine just suck for what I want to do!






    Yeah, and if we get to bickering (sometimes alot of fun) we can call a jackass a jackass It is a hell ov a lot easier to find info on this type of forum versus the yahoo groups style.. but it is hard to convince guys that have been "loyal" to the group to change.


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  9. horsepower added a post in a topic Testing my new camera set up   

    Joey Thats great,Can hear the sound real good and nice landing to boot.I mounted a camera in my dragster once and I used a Roberts pole holder mount that we sell here at our boat shop. It clamped on the roll bar and then I made a adapter to hook to a VCR camera.I was pretty proud the way it turned out but first time I went to use it the NHRA tech guy made me take it off,he said it was not approved, NHRA tech guys suck...so dont know how it would have worked.Anyhow yours works pretty good. Randy
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  10. akflyer added a post in a topic Need some verification   

    X2 on what jack said. Amy bolt subject to rotation should have a cotter key in it. My A&P was ADAMANT about this.

    What type of trim issues are you having? I have found, that when I try to trim it out with the flaperons (more nose up trim) I scrub off about 5 MPH and the roll control is alot heavier. I play with the flaps to get the roll control feeling the lightest, then up trim on the elevator to maintain altitude. At my present CG, I am using full up trim to hold altitude at 5500 RPM and about 70 MPH on the ground (85 indicated). When I load heavy in the baggage area I can go to pretty much neutral on the elevator trim.


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  11. jackak added a post in a topic Need some verification   


    Joey,
    The F7A's look like they are installed correctly. Were you working on the mixer at this point? I noticed that the large area washers normally installed outboard of the Heim joints seem to be missing. Avid's mix of castellated and self-locking nuts is curious too. Anywhere there is movement at a bolt I'd use castellated nuts, too easy for the fiber in the self-lockers to wear out and I don't think you adjust the links that frequently. My 2 cents.
    Jack
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  12. popslick added a post in a topic Avid Catalina   

    Looks good Bob, I knew you would be working in silence!
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  13. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Adventures of the Gnome   

    AAARRRGHHH! He's following you!!!

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  14. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Adventures of the Gnome   

    AAARRRGHHH! He's following you!!!
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  15. C5Engineer added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids   

    Adventures of the Gnome
    Well since I have the Gnome I figured I would just roll with it.. took him flying today.






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  16. C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Need some verification
    I'm still chasing down some trim issues and want to verify with someone that I have my F7A bellcranks installed properly. I've flown it this way 48 hours so I hope so but just trying to eliminate any variables.






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  17. C5Engineer added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids   

    Testing my new camera set up
    I pieced together some of my RAM parts and used a suction cup mount on my passenger side door. It vibrated a bit more than I thought it would but at least I have a starting point and a way to mount my digi cam now. I have a ubolt style mount too but it will only fit on a 1" tube. I'm going to work on mounting it on the rear cross member someplace and try that. Until then here's a short vid I shot on a .7 hour flight after work today.


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  18. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Pic request   

    Mike thank you for the info and welcome to the forum. Lots less bickering over here than on the Yahoo listing.
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  19. saskavid added a post in a topic Pic request   

    Leni:

    You're the one who recommended Joey look into the pedals I designed.I'm thinking you must have have handled the ones I did for Jack King.the whole Idea behind the design was to create something effective and quick to get reinstalled on already up and running planes.Numbers wise the setup has 5.3 leverage ratio in static position and with activation around 3.5.I did a rudder bar/brake pedal mockup on a bench hooked to a pressure gauge and can wrap a 600 psi gauge using single thumb pressure on the top of the pedal.(the Matco troubleshooting page puts 600 psi as a more or less top end base line for there systems)I did bench test the stock avid /mc5 setup and you are hard pressed to make 250 psi with that last 50 creeping into the picture about 5 seconds after you wanted to have the airplane stopped I've taken some flak over my pedal ratio claims in the past.larry martin was first to use the mc4 type ram to improve leverage, he went with an mc4 extended to attach right at the top of the pedal, ending up with just under 2.5 pedal ratio under activation. I followed his lead and went with the 6.5 ram trying to target a little more leverage (3.5)then made the necessary structural revisions to the pedals when I realised they were keeping the system from spooling up the nessicary line pressure.(pencils out to a 33% line psi improvement)
    larry also had people tell him he was "out to lunch" so to speak in his pedal ratio numbers...What I want to clarify here and now is that the methodology both larry and I used in our calculations , at it's origin , came directly from George Happ the president and r+d head of matco mfg...sooo I think the leverage values I'm quoting are in pretty good standing.

    The 2 piece pedals are a bargain but they aren't cheap so to speak. I'm guessing I had 200 hrs of brain sweat into the design before they ever became an in hand working product.The best stick welder I know told me I couldn't build this 2 piece pedal design because the machining tolerances were too tight and the welding would seize everything in a lump...end result proved him wrong. What I'm charging ends up being an hourly rate less than $20, so it is a bargain but the work is a real time eater.

    Mike
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  20. akflyer added a post in a topic Pic request   


    cool! if he has a good price on them, I will save myself the trouble and just get them from him!


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  21. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Pic request   


    Thanks Leni. Mine were built by a guy in Canada named Michael Schuetz. Mike do you care to chime in here? They are really well built. The bushings keep you from having any slop. I guess just having some slop in your pedal can make you lose up to 1/3 of your PSI down the line.
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  22. akflyer added a post in a topic Pic request   

    the pedals on the right are the ones that Bob modified from the amphib, and the ones on left are from the KF III kit that he has. You can see that the KF mounts are lowered and in a good position to give you some mechanical advantage. I will build a set of pedals like Joey has now if I put my plane back on wheels. I am really liking the design! What did he hit you for a set of those?



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  23. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Alright then!   

    Aaargh!!


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  24. dholly added a post in a topic Amphib Float Controls   

    Leni - if the requirement for float certification is that it provide buoyancy of 80% in excess of the maximum certificated gross weight of that seaplane... using my 1320# x 1.8 = 2376#, divided by 2 = 1188# means I am at least 8% underfloated with an 1100 displacement float. On paper is one thing, real life another. The fact is, the displacement rating is for the straight, not amphib, floats. I have spoken to four Aerocet 1100 amphib owners, all Kitfox 4-1200, who say at gross the tips are super easy to submerge while taxi-ing and turning downwind. Great floats but hoping they can handle 1320# is likely a pipe dream. Sure, I would prefer amphib vs. straight floats, but straight floats over none! My shop at home is my hanger, the plane will be trailered either way.

    I have not personally put everything on the scale but Paul Seehafer who owned both said he weighed the Aerocet straight floats, rigging and hardware at 158# and amphibs at 227#. The Baumann 1500s (1536# actual freshwater displacement) with Legend Cub rigging run 197#, lighter than EDO 1320s. I also like the Murphy 1500 straight floats but they are tough to find. I could probably swap to 1320s even or better, even to a couple grand more for the Murphys depending on condition and about +$4k for the Baumanns. They ain't cheap but have the extra lockers option and less than 150hrs use.
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  25. dholly added a post in a topic Pic request   

    Leni - you're right of course, it's not just repositioning the lower attach tabs. If you look at the Kitfox setup, you'll see the toe piece tab is moved lower too. I agree that results in more leverage but, keep in mind, before that change a good number of complaints were because if the rudder pedals and toe pieces were straight up or angled forward with neutral rudder, one's ankles couldn't physically articulate far enough to engage the brakes when the rudder was fully depressed. With the old Avid setup you couldn't simply cant the toe piece back toward the pilot because the big reservoir cylinder hit the pedal crosspiece. Not an issue with remote reservoir, and if you look at the latest Kitfox setup the cylinder bottom is no longer even attached to the pedal control tube, it's now fastened to the floor well ahead of the tube.

    Joey - your new toe pieces resolve the top tab problem but I see no reason why you wouldn't want to reposition the bottom tabs farther forward on the pedal control tube if helps cant the toe pieces back slightly to make braking easier or more ergonomic. The toe piece I posted moves the top tab down to correct geometry and also helps prevent inadvertent braking when the toe piece is canted back. Kind of looks like yours does something similar but with less bulky. Please let us know how you like that aspect of their design.
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