Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. cliff added a post in a topic engine and prop advice   

    My brother ran all new fuel lines, oil lines, throttle cables, and radiator hoses to the existing engine. Only thing they need to do, hopefully, is change the engine, which has the Cbox already installed, and install the prop. I was thinking it might take a while to get the engine, prop rpm and soforth tuned correctly. I guess time will tell. 
    • 0


  2. marksires added a post in a topic engine and prop advice   

    I'm not a great mechanic, and had zero Rotax or Aircraft engine experience at the time.  I took my engine off (582 grey head) to send it for overhaul in a few hours, and it took me a little less than a day to get it put back on by myself.  Since all the 'stuff' is already run, it isn't that bad.  Most of the time I spent was running new fuel lines and oil injector lines.  Installing an engine in a new airplane would take longer since all the wires, throttle cables, hoses, radiator mounts, etc. have to be set up and then adjusted a bazillion times.
    Mark
    • 0


  3. wolves200 added a post in a topic "FOXY FLAPPER" FOTOS   

    Nice! you plane is on the way, I like your retractable nose gear!
     
    Regards
    Dimi3
    • 0


  4. cliff added a post in a topic engine and prop advice   

    We  have a  tiny tach and a rotax tach and the tiny tach reads 200 rpm less than the rotax. My brother is pulling the engine on Saturday. two of the airport guys are going to help him, all three are mechanicis by trade,and one guy has a fair amount of 2 stroke knowledge. They say if they don't run into any problems , they can have the engine swap done in one day. I am NOT a mechanic and can't see how they can get everything done in one day. Have any of you experienced guys changed an engine in one day?  Also, we bought a complete fire wall forward  (582, C box, and 3 blade powerfin prop) off  a kitfox IV. We sent the engine and gear box to rotax Rick for overhaul and never changed anything on the prop. If the Kitfox owner had the prop set right what are the chances that it will work as set with the overhauled engine? We can't find any markings on this Powerfin prop to tell us what model it is, Does any one know where the model number might be found or how to tell which blades we have. From the pictures on the powerfin website it looks like either a B or E blade. Thanks
    • 0


  5. C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Avid B model to MK4 Elevator upgrade
    I just got my elevator back from Highwing LLC today. I had it exteneded to the Mark 4 dimensions which is almost 4" more chord as well as installing a Ray Allen trim system. Can't wait to test fly it. Hoping to complete the bulk of the install this weekend. Will report back with a PIREP.
     
    Lowell Fitt did all the work. He powerdercoated the metal after the extension and did all the work you see in the pic. He also covered and painted the final product. I am VERY impressed with his craftmanship.
     

    • 27 replies
    • 4,360 views


  6. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Looking for information on Kitfox wheel hubs   

    Here is the type and # of bearing.  It's a Timken A 6075.  I googled it to find a race to fit it cause I didn't want to pound the one out of the hub to read it and found a Timken A 6157.  It is only 3/8" wide though.  I'm sure the ones in the Kitfox hub measured 1/2" wide.  Jim Chuk
    • 0


  7. akflyer added a post in a topic engine and prop advice   

    re-seal after 5 years.  It is cheap and easy to reseal the engine.  One day to pull it, reseal then re-install.   I would not be putting DOT in the engine to make the seals swell up.  Your lawn mower or dirt bike is easy to pull over and fix, the plane is a bit different when you loose a seal and one cylinder goes lean and you smoke the piston.  Been there and done that, it gets exciting really quick.  I had JUST enough altitude to get back to the airport and land with a 20 mph tail wind. 
     
    For 150 bucks worth of seals, I would not take the chance.  I may gamble on the RV shaft seals, but not the two main crank seals.
     
    For a tach, go with a tiny tach.  I have seen the rotax analog tach from 2-800 RPM off.  Generally if a guy says it takes him 700' to get off the ground and only climbs out at 200 FPM, he is running an analog tach that is one big lying SOB!  Akflyerbob has both in his KF and at first they were reading within 60 RPM of each other.. after 50 hrs of flight time the analog tach is now 800+ RPM off.
     
    I am convinced that Rotax uses the same technology for their tachs as they do for the Dream-o-Meters they say measure speed on the snowmachines.. When testing the race sleds they said we were getting 120 MPH, but GPS and radar only showed us hitting 87
     
     

    • 0


  8. EDMO added a post in a topic "FOXY FLAPPER" FOTOS   

    "TWO OLD MEN AND A TRUCK - Ha!"
    Trying to set up wing to make wing struts - Short people should not try this at home!
    We gave up and decided that the landing gear has to come off first.
         "The upside-down nosewheel"?   After a painful encounter between the nose strut and my leg, I decided to put the nosewheel on as a rubber-bumper so it didn't happen again.
          "Lesson learned" - Well, at least it was a learning experience, and not a disaster, as it could have been.
    Regrouping to try again another time - Posting Foto.
    EdMO

    • 1


  9. allonsye added a post in a topic engine and prop advice   

    Joey and all -
     
    What are some of the digital alternatives over the old need/gray wire setups?
     
    The OP brings up a good question. How long can a 582 be stored after an overhaul with respect to seal life?  I'm preparing to run mine. It was overhauled and pickeled 10-yrs ago. After I hung it, I serviced the G/B. Since then the oil has been leaking out of the lower weep hole. I'm hoping after it's running that particular seal will set.  Makes me wonder if this gray head will have to be pulled apart again to replace the engine seals?  I have had luck in the past rejuvanting seals by adding DOT brake fluid to rejuvante them.
     
    In the meanwhile, I'm discarding the worry beads and planning to proceed w break'in and see what happens. That'll be a few weeks as I wrap up the coolant and electrical connections.
     
    Paul


    • 0


  10. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for information on Kitfox wheel hubs   

    Jim,
         Guess you didn't find a part number and brand on the bearing?
    EdMO
    • 0


  11. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Looking for information on Kitfox wheel hubs   

    Well, I finally got some more accurate dimentions for the Kitfox hubs.  I made a drawing showing them, plus a couple of pics showing the hubs themselves.  These are hubs that came with a Kitfox 3 originally,  Hope this answers most of the questions.  Bearings and seal outside diameter is 1 9/16", the bearing race is 1/2" wide.  Jim Chuk



    • 0


  12. Trackwelder added a post in a topic Wanted a Rotax C redrive   

    Rotax has a 90 hp 2 cylinder 4 stroke that weighs only 119 lbs, I took a look and could not find the price for an engine, but the price of a jet ski with a closed loop cooling system was under $5000 but it does not have the hours in the air of the Yamaha.
         I am not done but I have my engine, 2 people are building adapters for the engine to a redrive and all I am waiting for is money, I spent some of it on a lathe, but I am hoping to make a few dollars with some little pieces that people are wanting.
    • 0


  13. 1avidflyer added a topic in For Sale and wanted, you got it, I want it   

    BRS 5 1200 for sale
    I recently acquired a 1200 lb canister BRS.  It is out of date, so it should be repacked.  I have the bridles that were supplied with it for a Kitfox 4.  The two attachment straps hook around the front wing attach points, so it should work on any Kitfox or Avid.  I can send it to BRS for repack, and then they can send it to you.  Price to repack with new rocket is $1500.  Price of new 1050 BRS is $4650, and for the 1300 is $6800.  They don't currently make a 1200 model.  I have to get $1750 for mine, add $1500 for the repack, and you are at about 1/2 or 2/3 the price of a new one that is as good as new with a repack.  If something is wrong with the chute, and BRS wont repack it, the deal is off and you just pay the shipping from me to them.  About 200 miles distance.  Anyone interested?  Thanks,  Jim Chuk



    • 0 replies
    • 1,102 views


  14. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Looking for information on Kitfox wheel hubs   

    Different bearing diameters.  I will try to pull one off today and get some better dimentions on the newer Kitfox hubs.  Jim Chuk
    • 0


  15. Trackwelder added a post in a topic Looking for information on Kitfox wheel hubs   

    The lathe I have ordered will swing the par, If you have a reason to pull the wheel please take the other measurements, If I am going to build these I would like to have them match the original Kitfox parts.
          Are you saying there are 2 different wheel bolt patterns or two different sizes of bearing outer diameters, The bearing sizes I am not worried about as I could just use the Azusa wheel bearing for a size, I believe they use a sealed bearing instead of a bearing cap on the hub.
         To save money I could easily make them 2 piece with the wheel hub TIG welded on then finish machine.
        I was not aware that there were 2 different bolt patterns, It would be nice to have both sizes so I could build either, or go with the easiest to buy wheel for.
    • 0


  16. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Looking for information on Kitfox wheel hubs   

    Well Orilley is over so I can now give some dimentions on the Kitfox hubs.  I measured some old hubs I had (from a Kitfox 1)  and this is what I came up with.  Looks like they were made from thick walled aluminum pipe with a plate welded on that the wheel bolted onto.
    The pipe was 2 1/4" OD, with 1 1/2" ID.  The bearings were 1 9/16" OD.  The plate was 3/8" thick, and was 4 3/4" diameter with 6 holes in a 4" circle.  The hubs were 4" long. The newer Kitfox hubs look to be a smaller diameter, maybe 2 1/16" OD (hard to measure accurate with the wheel on) and the bearings looked slightly bigger than the older hubs had.  If you still think you want to build, I can try to take a wheel off and get more accurate measurements for you.  I think the wheels have a 3" hole in the wheel.  Doesn't look like it would be hard to make some hubs using thick walled pipe and plate.  Jim Chuk
    • 0


  17. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Help - Need tubing size   

    I measured my Avid right after I posted my last message, and before I could repost that 7/16" is correct, I got a phone call that lasted till I had to leave home.  Back now so I figured I would tell you you are okey on the 7/16".  Jim Chuk
     
    PS  I also kind of measured a Kitfox hub.  Now if I can find that post......
    • 0


  18. EDMO added a post in a topic Help - Need tubing size   

    Luke,
         When you get ready to drill the holes for the little 7/16 tubes into the cross tubes, it is very important to get them absolutely vertical in both directions with each other - I set mine up in a milling machine to drill them both at the same setting.   And make sure the tops of the little tubes are at the same height above the crosstubes before welding them in.   Mine were set to .312 (5/16) above the 1 1/8 inch diameter crosstibes.
         When you set the crosstubes up for welding to the fuselage tubes, and to the headache tubes, you should make some sort of fixture to make sure your vertical tubes are exactly 27 1/2 inches apart on each side, and that the little tubes are vertical
     - I forget what the width should be, but think it is about 36 inches - I will try to check on that if you don't have it.
    EdMO
    • 0


  19. cliff added a post in a topic engine and prop advice   

    Wel I am sorry I wasted your time, My brother has decided to swap the engine with the zero time one. You all gave me good advice but he said he will feel better with an engine of known  origin hanging off the front of the plane he is finishing his  light sport training in. I support his decision and we may need more advice on setting this engine up. Thanks again, Cliff
    • 1


  20. Luked added a post in a topic Help - Need tubing size   

    Thanks Ed!
    • 0


  21. EDMO added a post in a topic Help - Need tubing size   

    Luke,
        The 5/16 ID is correct - you wont be wrong on the 7/16 OD.
    EdMO
    • 0


  22. Luked added a post in a topic Help - Need tubing size   

    No problem guys. I should have remembered to measure myself. If I'm wrong it's not the end of the world though. I'll check when I get home tonight. May have to re-order with faster shipping. Pretty sure It's right though.
    • 0


  23. 1avidflyer added a post in a topic Help - Need tubing size   

    Sorry, I could have measured it, but now it's to late.  Without checking, I think you are right though.  Jim Chuk
    • 0


  24. akflyer added a post in a topic Help - Need tubing size   

    sorry, I am 800 miles away from the plane right now so I cant get measurements for you
     

    • 0


  25. FoxDB added a post in a topic Looking for information on Kitfox wheel hubs   

    An option I was considering was to buy the A3A Axles from Matco and bore a .75 Hole thru, then re-drill the caliper mounting plate to match the axle pattern. This saves a lot of machining. I learn years back it is less expensive to modify a mass produced part then to start from scratch.
    Dave
    • 1