Sent out the $ today, sorry took so long i spaced it out. And been busy with the kid gettin suspended from school and all the snow we just got, least he was around to help shovel and plow snow. Lol Thanks again Bucky
Time to update this thread! Mohawk Aero's 2018 GT4 Roller ramp clutches are coming out very soon. I am done with the drawings, and converting them for CNC machining as of this writing. Updates (should I go with geek-speak and call this the GT4.2 update?) include, among other things: Dual idler bearings (front & rear)(Steel-sleeved) rubber-bonded drive-stud pockets to damp vibration and allow for minor misalignment in all directions: radial, axial, and angular. Kinda like merging "the rubber donut" with a clutch!
The only time I have ever had tailwheel shimmy is when something got loose or the castor angle was too far out of whack. The spring mounting bolts on the fuse got loose and created a good shimmy on me but that's about it. I have run with and without springs, compression springs, loose chains, tight chains etc. Pay attention to the different sized springs and which side you put them on. using a geared engine you would put them on the opposite side of what you would a conventional engine. I do get the tail off the ground ASAP with full down elevator to get the drag cleaned up and accelerate faster. I also almost never wheel land, I drag it in more often than not 1 point
I would say worst case, you could use a couple relays and have the controller run the relays. Not sure how they will hold up top constant use but you can get a prewired relay for the lights for around 8 bucks off amazon. I had originally wired the lights on my side x side direct to the switch but had a flickering issue. I used the relay and now they don't flicker or trip out on me. The biggest thing to remember is the load on the stator.. its only 170 watts tops so bear that in mind when sizing your lights.
Hi Ron, Different springs on the chains may change the characteristics of shimmy and maybe affect the onset of shimmy, but all you are really doing by changing springs is changing the amount of spring, not adding friction. Friction damping is the ONLY way to ensure the system won't shimmy. If the tail wheel assembly itself does not have a provision for adjusting the amount of friction required to move the tire back and forth, so you can critically dampen the resonance of the system, it will shimmy at some point. There is a company now (maybe more than one) that offers a big ass tail wheel that has no steering chains or springs at all. I think they got the idea for it from the RV style nose gear that is not connected to rudder pedals. The RV nose gear would shimmy like mad if it weren't for a couple of big bellville washers that you are supposed to tighten down until it takes about 10LB of force to move the wheel back and forth at all. Differential breaking is used to force the wheel to turn. That large amount of friction prevents the wheel from ever developing a shimmy in the first place. Same with that big ass tail wheel it operates solely on friction. No amount of springs, castor angle change or anything else will absolutely prevent shimmy. Only enough friction to critically dampen the resonance of the spring/lever/tire weight combination. It took quite a while to get my head around what is actually going on, but now that I understand it seems so simple. The potential for shimmy can only be eliminated with friction, not changing spring rate or mass or moment arm or castor angle. Those things only change the frequency of shimmy and maybe change the conditions of onset. Friction (enough opposition to the back and forth movement of the tire) is the only sure cure for shimmy. Unfortunately not all tail wheel manufacturers have the provision to adjust friction. Only ones that do provide a friction adjustment can be positively set up not to shimmy. That's my experience anyway! :-) Chris
Loved the 'Coupe video - Just not the right plane to take to Alaska - held on to my 415C for a few years, asking wife if we were coming back to Missouri - The month I sold the Coupe, she told me we were moving back! - My wives didn't like planes! Oh - I didn't have JATO... EDMO
I’ve ran these on the Crazed Pilot Controller three times for extended periods and it seems to handle them well. This same controller runs two 48 head LED wing lights on my Zenith 701 with no problem. I have a hard time believing it will not handle two 6 head lights with 1/4 of the wire length. I could use a car flasher but they are heavy. If I’m wrong I burn up a relatively cheap controller. So far it seems to handle it. We shall see. I’m by no means an electrical guru. In fact I’m at the other end of the spectrum.
Thanks for the post Ron - I was beginning to think that some might be thinking that the meds were affecting my thinking (what am I saying?) about there being 3 types of Magnum tips - Glad to have them validated. EDMO
I use the vision X light but in all fairness, any time I do any night flying and really need a landing light it is in the winter on skis and they really light up the snow. I have never tried them as landing lights on anything but snow as it does not get dark here in the summer I have the crazed pilot controller but have never hooked it up for the wig wag. I really need to do that as it seriously helps for recognition. For those wondering, I went for the high tech mounting method on my landing gear leg.. an Adel clamp
Chris, Thanks! Did you go with different sized compression type springs on the chains to dampen the shimmy? I’m running a Maule pneumatic tailwheel and tire now and I don’t have a shimmy anymore, but I think I used different sized springs this time which probably helped... Thanks, Ron
I learned that the only thing that will cure tail wheel shimmy is lots of friction damping. And it makes sense if you really think about it. Changing castor angle will only slightly change the conditions under which shimmy might occur. It took me a long time to figure out that a shimmy is exciting a resonance in a mechanical tuned system of spring(s) and weight. Just like an inductor and capacitor in an electrical circuit. Without a damping resistor the electrical circuit can resonate if excited. Without mechanical damping (lots of friction in the back and forth movement of the tail wheel) it WILL shimmy under the right conditions regardless of castor angle. I went down the castor angle black hole ultimately to learn that the only REAL cure for tail wheel shimmy is resistive damping. Happy your plane is OK!
You are right about that Joey. My Avid is a little faster and burns less than half the fuel of SQ2 but boy will they land slow and short to say nothing of carrying one big load. They are also very docile on the runway and stable in the air. I would love to own one if I had a boat load of money. A friend of mine owns BCSC and is a great guy. I think I may have mentioned that he has a welder that works for him that worked at Avid for years. i don't know Jim, it sounds like your gig is pretty sweet. I think this retirement thing is alright what do you think?
Jim I kind of had a hunch that was the scenario here. Not a big a deal it's been sold a lot as long as they all did the paper trail. Someone starting the registration process and not finishing it can make it a pain to register especially without a complete bill of sale trail. It's the lots of transport and sitting that I would be concerned with.
Generally straight skis are best for performance esp in deep snow plus you are removing the weight of the wheels when you install straight skis. Out where i live there is 3 months of deep wind drifted snow, the airport is plowed mostly but no place for straight skis plus having wheels under it allows me to fold the wings and take it home... A hangar would be ideal but the city here wants $250 a month to store in this hangar with 4 other planes and there are quesitons about working on the plane in the hangar.....so thats not such a good deal, the only other option is lease the ground and build a hangar but not sure I want to do that.. .I might get a wild hair and drag up and move someplace nicer to fly, less wind, the damn wind here reminds me of the north slope of AK in the winter......Davenport, Washington 30 sm west of Spokane in the wheatfield country... no cover.....mark
I used to water ski in the swamps and on the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers - Drowned once - Still cant swim! Ha! Helped build a tri-gear non-flying, Harley-powered snowplane sled in Michigan, and drove it, but never snowskied on my own two legs or in a plane. Just remembering. EDMO
I watched a Youtube Video of a guy landing a red kitfox and it swereved just a little one way then made a big sweeping groundloop with screeching tires and all but it didnt hurt it...the first thing the pilot did was look around to see if anyone saw it!!! I laughed so hard my side hurt...... WHen you screw up the first run of order is: 1) did anyone see it? 2) can I blame it on someone else? 3) can I shit-can 4 problem solved!!!
I would like to get a set of wheel penetration skis to put under my classic IV main in case the engine quits or I am forced to land in a farmers field with 2 feet of snow.... I just fly around for fun by my self, not into any off airport stuff anymore, it always cost way too much $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
As a side note, the exwife has not seen my new plane and if I play my cards right and keep her entertained she feel sorry for pathetic me and make a small contribution to the
"Markie FUnd"!!!!!!!!!keeping my fingers crossed....
This is the “Finch” tip...Ed is right about dangerous! I Think the idea is that they deflect the wingtip vortices further off the wing...or maybe they just wanted Magnum pilots to wear eye patches like Pirates? Ron