Beautiful Bird.. I got an hour or so in today, as well. Landed on a popular lake and talked to some ice fisherman. Shot some footage with the gopro mounted inside... Learned what a bad videographer/narrator/subject I am. Now I need to learn editing.. Those days on the snow sure are special. Hoping to repeat tomorrow...John O
I also changed to premixing, partly to insure I always had enough oil and partly weight and C.G.as the engine and exhaust system is heavier. Mike Hair is my neighbor and helped me build the 670. I then helped him with the build of a 720 (670 bored to accept Polaris pistons). I ran my 582 for 700 hours trouble free but was getting concerned about the high time. I also had a leaking oil injection check valve for the latter part of that and thought this is a way to eliminate this problem. Dave
I think that is pretty bad ass. Bend a tube and you unbolt it and slip a new one in. No chemicals to deal with in the covering etc. When you end up with enough duct tape on it from field repairs you just unlace the covering and zip on a new scheme. Not too much in the video showing TO and landing performance though. Outside the box thinking and creativity in bringing new products to market gets a forward nod from me!
Yes - There have been instances where air pressures on large unshielded horns have even reversed the forces on the controls - This becomes more critical with faster flight - Usually this is corrected by cutting back the horns shorter, or also putting a solid part of the stabilizer in front of the horns to make them sheilded. The weights in the horns may help prevent this. EDMO
I had to remove all of my MK IV false ribs (both wings) due to the aluminum leading edge being a real mess. With a heat gun and patience, I was able to remove them all, clean up the spar and then put them back in place. A taut line from wing tip to root made placing them back at the correct height pretty straight forward. And then I replace the aluminum with a thin veneer of plywood.
The starter takes a heavy amperage - the battery will need a quick charge from the alternater after you start engine. The length of charging time depends on how long you have to use the starter to start the engine. Disconnect the tender before starting. EDMO
They should be same height as main ribs - guess someone didn't measure when gluing them in - it should fly OK that way, but shrinking fabric may possibly put enough pressure on them to bend or break them. The easiest solution that I can think of is to glue some 1/8" thick capstrips on the tops of the main ribs to make everything even. The nose ribs break very easily - just how do I know that? I have mended lots of them! EDMO