Activity Stream

Posts Activity Stream

  1. jackak


    I can't tell you how this worked out because shortly after setting it up, I installed the conventional gear. The large hole below the rodend attach bolt on the cross-tube was drilled to allow access to the brake cylinder mount bolt.

    Jack

  2. jackak


    Or you could do something like this with your existing nose gear. I welded a pair of tabs onto the cross tube for the left rudder pedal, lowered the attach point for the push-pull tube and eliminated the sharp angle that existed originally on the stock setup. I believe I got the info from a builder in the UK.

    Jack 

    119.JPG

  3. C5Engineer


    I have some of the original documentation that came with my kit. Beings there are thousands of 582s out there and I’ve yet to see anyone flying with one I’m guessing it was not very popular. 

  4. EDMO


    Here is photo of my nose gear - As I said, "Not Finished' - The side brace tubes are not welded on it - they bolt to fuselage at lower front corners, and the spring probably has to be changed to a heavier one, and the pivot tube shortened.  The angle of the pivot tube to the ground is 5 degrees.   It may need a shimmy dampener?   It has to be clear of your engine.  Buying one is a lot easier.  EDMO

    post-399-0-32559800-1409429768_thumb.jpg

  5. Steveirving


    Steve,  I don't think the RV - Kitfox nose gear will fit anything you now have on the Avid - There were two types of these - one attached to fittings welded to the front frame, and the other attached to the engine mount.   I will look for a photo or two of my homemade gear, but as I said it is unfinished and untested.  You might have a better idea.  EDMO

    Thanks EDMO.  Sounds good.

  6. EDMO


    Steve,  I don't think the RV - Kitfox nose gear will fit anything you now have on the Avid - There were two types of these - one attached to fittings welded to the front frame, and the other attached to the engine mount.   I will look for a photo or two of my homemade gear, but as I said it is unfinished and untested.  You might have a better idea.  EDMO

    1 person likes this
  7. Steveirving


    The castering nose wheels are really nice. I had one for years. However, the original milkstool wheel isn't bad. works real well with low tire pressure to absorb shock and it is the lightest of all options. Something is wrong for you to be breaking the stock setup. 

    1) How long can you hold the nosewheel off before it dropping to the ground?

    2) What is your weight and balance?

    3) Can you easily taxi around at jogging speed while holding the nosewheel up in balance? if you cannot do this you probably need 10 lb of lead in the tail.

    Chris

     

    Chris,  Thanks for the questions.  I haven't noticed any issues getting the nose wheel off the ground.  It seems to rise and fall easily with about 15-20 mph of forward movement.  I tend to treat every takeoff or landing like a soft field just out of habit. My W&B is 491 lbs and 11.69 empty and 878lbs / 13.19 with full fuel and me on board.

  8. Steveirving


    I keep going back to your original post before the RV type nose gear subject got started:  The bent tube must have been by a lot of excessive force on the pedals and was probably not bent that way by any normal external force on the nosewheel - Either there was some mis-handling or someone has strong legs!   Secondly,  the 3/16 threaded connector seems too light for that part - I would have used a 1/4-28 threaded tube connector like is used on the elevator push-pull tube which does not have that much pressure on it.  I think if you replace your bent & broken parts you should not have any more problems with the nose gear.  I would also inspect the rudder cables and attachments for too much force before flight.   EDMO

    EDMO,  Great recommendations.  The chrome tube seems to have been bent on purpose for better fit from the nose tube to the pedal base.  I agree the 3/16 is way too weak.  I will look to reinforce this control tube with 1/4" or just make it a solid tube once the length is set.  I will also check the rudder cables and attachment points carefully again.  Steve

    That bottle does not have to be airtight.  You start out with the radiators full of coolant.  As the coolant warms and expands, it gets pushed into the overflow bottle.  When it cools back down the coolant contracts, and it is sucked back into the radiator system.   No need to be airtight.  in fact, if it was airtight, you would pressurize the bottle when coolant tried to force it's way in.  The hose going into the bottle should reach nearly to the bottom so it doesn't suck air.   Just like on all the newer cars that use an overflow tank.  JImChuk

    Your Post was put in the wrong category, but I will answer it anyway - Maybe an administrator can move these?

    "Are there any issues moving the front portion of the three wheel base rear a bit?  Stability?"

    I have some info about that in one of my books - the more angle from main to nosewheel, the more chance of flipping over to one side - in other words, the shorter the triangle from mains to nosewheel, the less stabile it will be.   The Avid is an already short triangle, so you don't want to shorten it more.   The Kitfox / RV / Grumman type nose gear puts the castering wheel farther forward than the original Avid.   EDMO 

     

    Thanks EDMO.  Do you happen to know where I can get one of these nose wheel assemblies?

    Unless you can find one on Barnstormers or some site, I guess Kitfox would be the only place to buy one?  They were $1500 the last I heard.  I made mine with Walmart mountain bike parts I got out of a trash bin!   ;<)  It is not finished or tested - I still need to weld the side support tubes on it.  EdMO

    Cool.  Could you send a pic or specs on your castering nosewheel design?  Think I'm gonna make one and try it too :)

     

  9. Columbus


    I use a clear “pencil pocket”- I think .50¢ at Dollar General. Added benefit is the grommets used to snap it into a 3 ring binder make dandy places to run some zip-strips!

  10. Steveirving


    You should be able to purchase an RV6A assembly (the one of your pics with the unfinished wheel pant). That's what I have on mine (including Avid drawings for same). I'm planning on taking mine off later this year to install Grove taildragger gear I purchased. Thought about selling it but I'm kinda thinking of hanging on to it as a boost should I sell in the future when the Bearhawk is done. Although I'm really falling in love with this bird. Thinking about the possibility of the enclosed trailer route for retirement ( or pre-retirement) travels... 

     

    As Ed mentioned, it also provides stabilizing compared to the original style Avid nose gear as it puts the wheel farther forward.

    20170716_182017.jpg

    Marcus,  Your nose-wheel is exactly the setup I'd like to get. I'll start looking for RV6A castering nose wheel assemblies.  Curious about the nose wheel tube and how it will fit into the existing nose wheel tube in the Avid frame.  Would you be able to provide some close up pics of your nose wheel assembly and the tube from the inside and out and perhaps some measurements?  Any issues with taxi or control on takeoff or landing?  Steve

  11. Steveirving


    Avid90,

    I agree with you.  I really don't like the setup of this use wheel push-pull tube but this is exactly how it was designed in the Avid Builder manual. Seems to me a double push pull rod with the connecting points set lower on the nose wheel tube would have been better.

    Could you elaborate on the reinforced rudder for nose wheels?  Not sure I follow.  Steve

  12. Avid90


    A couple of things strike me when looking at the pictures, one of which is that I can't believe the geometry of that push pull rod.  It seems to me that the ball end might have run out of swivel travel at the nose gear attachment end and that may have caused the tube to bow, breaking the threads of the An 490 threaded tube end.  I am suprised that the threads are 3/16 inch.  I would have thought them to be 1/4.

    I cringe when I see flight control system parts that are chrome plated.  I know they look nice, but hopefully whoever did the chrome plating baked the parts to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.  Does the rudder pedal reinforcement addition apply to the nose wheel airplanes, too?

  13. james miller


    Does anyone know anything about the Ellison throttle body ??

    I understand they have discontinued the efs2 for the 582.

    Did this work?

    Would appreciate any info about this product.

     

    Thanks

    Jim

  14. EDMO


    Position Lights = FAR 23.1389,   Strobe Lights = FAR 91.205c.   Whelen also has a chart in Spruce Catalog that is easy to understand.  Other instruments are required for night flight for all airplanes.  I guess Alaska still has its own requirements for lights, which included daytime flights.  EDMO

  15. marksires


    The paracord suggestion was a good one. I ordered a spool of 1,000 feet, and it arrived yesterday. We used it today.  It worked as well as the straps did for supporting the insulation to roll it out.  It isn't any faster to put up than the straps, but not having to take them out (especially if a screw goes through the strap - did that) and move them saves a ton of time.  By the time I get this hangar done, I'll know how to do this well.  I'll also know to let someone else do it next time :)  It has been a lot of fun though!

     

  16. Av8r_Sed


    From the EAA website:

    ANTI-COLLISION LIGHTS

    Am I required to have anti-collision lights on my homebuilt?

    No, if you are only going to using your aircraft for day, VFR flight. FAR 91.205 lists the instrument and equipment requirements for standard category aircraft. This FAR does not apply to Experimental-Amateur Built aircraft.

    If you intend to use your aircraft for either night VFR or IFR flight, you will have to comply with the requirements of FAR 91.205 because the operating limitations you receive as a part of your airworthiness certificate will include the following language:

    “After completion of phase I flight testing, unless appropriately equipped for night and/or instrument flight in accordance with § 91.205, this aircraft is to be operated under VFR, day only.”

     

    From FAR 91.205:

     

    (c)Visual flight rules (night). For VFR flight at night, the following instruments and equipment are required:

    (1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this section.

    (2) Approved position lights.

    (3) An approved aviation red or aviation white anticollision light system on all U.S.-registered civil aircraft. Anticollision light systems initially installed after August 11, 1971, on aircraft for which a type certificate was issued or applied for before August 11, 1971, must at least meet the anticollision light standards of part 23, 25, 27, or 29 of this chapter, as applicable, that were in effect on August 10, 1971, except that the color may be either aviation red or aviation white. In the event of failure of any light of the anticollision light system, operations with the aircraft may be continued to a stop where repairs or replacement can be made.

    (4) If the aircraft is operated for hire, one electric landing light.

    (5) An adequate source of electrical energy for all installed electrical and radio equipment.

    (6) One spare set of fuses, or three spare fuses of each kind required, that are accessible to the pilot in flight.

     

  17. Shipl14


    Having a hard time finding the FAR requirements for lighting on planes of this type. Nav lights, strobe, etc. Anybody know where to look? 

  18. Brodstol


    Just wanted to give a little update, this week I started on fixing the fuselage bent tubing, installed the exhaust and firewall seal, and started to prep the brand new Model 3 gear I bought from Ronin. Last week was the fuel system, battery tray, instrument panel and wiring. I also removed all the Lexan which I'll use as my away from school project at home. I'm still hoping to have it close to if not finished in a month which is also the end of my A&P schooling. My Kitfox will probably be the first logbook I put an entry in as an A&P. Welp back to the grind I go...

    20180221_155941.thumb.jpg.76f050ec0652f220180221_160005.thumb.jpg.2bbba0149f7a2d20180220_112454.thumb.jpg.c1477c3055eaeb20180221_160041.thumb.jpg.4c03e2eaed70c420180221_160023.thumb.jpg.4fde1d0565e0a520180221_160249.thumb.jpg.0a5ad02e59b72c

  19. EDMO


    I keep going back to your original post before the RV type nose gear subject got started:  The bent tube must have been by a lot of excessive force on the pedals and was probably not bent that way by any normal external force on the nosewheel - Either there was some mis-handling or someone has strong legs!   Secondly,  the 3/16 threaded connector seems too light for that part - I would have used a 1/4-28 threaded tube connector like is used on the elevator push-pull tube which does not have that much pressure on it.  I think if you replace your bent & broken parts you should not have any more problems with the nose gear.  I would also inspect the rudder cables and attachments for too much force before flight.   EDMO

  20. flywise


    There is one more important item to consider when choosing an amphib....

    The Catalina is easy to get out of water when a sandy beach is available (best place to be..).....not at all for the Icon nor the seamax. When you power up to get out the water on a high thrust line aircraft it gives a strong nose down moment...any nose wheel will dig into the sand and you'll be stuck. The Catalina with it's large low press tires and conventional gear is happy driving onto sand....

  21. Chris Bolkan


    The castering nose wheels are really nice. I had one for years. However, the original milkstool wheel isn't bad. works real well with low tire pressure to absorb shock and it is the lightest of all options. Something is wrong for you to be breaking the stock setup. 

    1) How long can you hold the nosewheel off before it dropping to the ground?

    2) What is your weight and balance?

    3) Can you easily taxi around at jogging speed while holding the nosewheel up in balance? if you cannot do this you probably need 10 lb of lead in the tail.

    Chris

     

  22. Av8r3400


    He has either changed the design or changed his mind on the subject in the year since we spoke.

    Your plane, your choice.  I wouldn't run this design gear with steel springs, that's my choice.