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  1. 1avidflyer


    Maybe try Kitfox as well.  I talked to Tom at Green Sky last spring about an HKS mount for the Kitfox 1, and I didn't get the impression that he wouldn't make one.  I had an HKS used engine in mind at the time.  I know they had an HKS mounted on a Kitfox 2 at one point, maybe still do.   JImChuk

  2. zadwit


    On my GUll 2000 the HKS bolts to aluminum  plates that bolt to the same holes the 503 used to bolt to.  Here you can see  the thick aluminum plates the HKS bolts to and then tthetheplaDSCN1168.thumb.JPG.300a555530b28782f2500DSCN1168.thumb.JPG.300a555530b28782f2500

  3. TJay


    Was looking over the plane and noticed a screw up. If I put any sort of seat cushion in this bird My knee would be hitting the throttle. Came up with a solution doesn't look as nice but functions better.  Eliminate 2 switches that were just spares  and move it to the panel. Now the only issue is my throttle cable is two short so if anybody has one laying around let me know.  Would like about 14 inches, Or I have this other type, it has no push button. Never used this type what are you thoughts Better worse. Thanks Enjoy the before and after pictures.

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  4. zadwit


    I want to install HKS 700E into my Kitfox IV. Its a 1999 Skystar Classic IV with a 503 and 154hr total  time. I have most everything I need except the engine mount and Green skys is reluctant to build just a mount......He has not said no and I would pay extra if he will do it... I could make a mount but for me it would be trial and error and I dont want to get into that...., HKS engine, then I guess Ill look at buying a factory new 582 and go that route... I can run a 2 stroke. I just  like  the HKS, it starts so easy, idles nice, I know it is not as powerful as a 582 or bigger but  I just want to fly around, no bush flying, done all I need for 5 life times in Alaska. Anyone has any idea how  I buy an HKS engine mount?????new, used, off a wreck maybe??????willingto pay top dollar$$$$

    Mark smith   907-378-9632

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  5. zadwit


    Subject: FW: I get this email every so often and it never ceases to make me laugh...

     

     

     

     

    Once upon a time a pilot found a beautiful princess and asked her,

     

    "Will you marry me?"

    The princess said, "No!"

     

    And the pilot lived happily ever after and flew jets all over the world and drove hot cars and chased skinny long-legged big-breasted flight attendants and hunted and fished and went to topless bars and dated women half his age and drank Weihenstephaner German beer and never heard bitching and never paid child support or alimony and kept his house and guns and ate cold leftover meals, potato chips and beans and blew enormous farts and never got cheated on while he was at work and all his friends and family thought he was frickin' cool as hell and he had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up........

    The end.

  6. TJay


    I think my issue was when I was making the plate I set the engine as far back as I could to help counter the Gear box weight I would think if you move the engine 1/2 inch forward it would clear.

  7. bcbushcaddy


    Thanks Randy, ..it can only fight me for so long! There is definitely some machining and tolerance issue's on my drive. While minor and nearly undetectable by the common builder/non machinist it was just ever so enough to cause these problems. Hope we have the "run-out" issues corrected and it will be smooth turning from here on forward. Just waiting for the lakes to freeze up around here to provide some additional runway lenghts and option for those first "check frights" with all the new parts. Stay tuned, pictures to follow of some of the work and issues corrected.  

  8. EDMO


    TJay,  Was the mount shown above originally for a 503?  Did you have to make a new mounting plate for it, or just put new engine bolt holes in it? 

    My 532 mounts are supposed to fit the 582.  The Kitfox 1 manual had drawings for both the 532 and 503 mounting plates like the one shown under your engine above, but I think they moved the 503 farther forward than the 532.  I believe the rubber mounts were all in the same location, so I was thinking that they only used one mount with different plates.    EdMO

  9. wypaul


    They need to be plumbed in series and how they are plumbed depends on which cylinders that you have.  You can use one set of the original MC-1's with the reserve built in  but the other set must be the remote reserve style (MC-4). MATCO has the drawings you need I think to get them plumbed correctly. 

    http://www.matcomfg.com/MC4SeriesMasterCylinderTechnicalManual-idv-2420-23.html

    if you want to use the MC-1's put them on the left and follow the plumbing thru the right MC-4's and then out to the brakes or vise verse.

    I made a couple of sets of brake pedals and they are quite easy.  Follow the suggestions for proper geometry in the above Matco info.

  10. Av8r3400


    Same back to you, Joey, Leni and the rest of the crew at AFF. 

     

    Just as a note I must say out loud how thankful I am to live where I do that I can freely enjoy our hobby of flying little planes. 

    I am so very blessed with good friends.  Thank you all. 

  11. TJay


    Should take a pic of your current engine mount if it has the side rails it will probably work with the 582 but the flat plate one may not. I had to do a bunch of rewelding on mine to make it fit a 582. One of the down tubes ran strait into the carb had to move it down a bit. I agree with Jim if your gonna spend all the money setting up a 582. Find a used 4 stroker. High time 912's are about the same money as a newer 582 Or if you want to fly with the Big boys buy a Jabiru:)

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    1 person likes this
  12. C5Engineer


    Happy Turkey Day from the staff at AFF! Thank You to everyone for continuing to contribute and make this place the best source of Avid info on the net. Enjoy a few days of rest with your families! I've got a few weeks left in the sandbox then home so I can finish the MK4 and get going on my commercial license! 

     

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  13. C5Engineer


    The belly radiator is available from Murle Williams. The original Kitfox FWF had a brass set up like the one pictured below. I got mine from another member here. Makes the plumbing easy if you can find one. The rest isn't too cosmic. You'll need to mount the RV reservoir and overflow bottle someplace and the rest should be close to the same. Which gearbox do you have? A new 582 is spendy! Rotax Rick will give you a great deal on a fresh low TT 582  if you trade in your 503. Carbs, exhaust, and gearbox will all swap over. 

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  14. 1avidflyer


    I took a few pictures of my MK IV that show changes that should not be on a C model or earlier.  If you look at Doug's pictures near the end of the first page, you can see some of these same gussets.  First is the door latch.  Then the extra gussets on the rear spar carry through.  JImChuk

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  15. zadwit


    another way to  prevent this  is put a mass balance weight on the tab to balance it 100%. IE with the tab control disconnected, the tab should just  ride along. Other wise is can be a dangerous situation.. IT caused  many a crash on the beech craft Bonaze Vee tail because the 1/16" trim tab cables would rust and fail allowing the elevator to flutter causing  the stablizer to  flex wildly up and down and few times and rip off. It is nothing to mess with. I f you look  at teh Dehavilland HC2 Beaver, they have the mass balance weight on the ailerons.

    The Taylorcraft L-2 has it as well on the elevator tab. Most Cessna 120, 140, 170, 172 dont need it because a cable chain drived a gear box that has a push rod that goes to the elevator tab.

  16. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    The cowl, I think covers your windshield bottom and air pressure is pushing it towards the plane -  I was talking about the front of the doors, especially with some kind of tape underneath, might be in a high-pressure wind stream that could get under them, or suck them outward? - That is why I thought they should be more secure in the front.  "Anything that can come loose, will come loose, sooner or later."   Who knows what the tape will do in the future? - I trust bolts.   EDMO

    If you read the link Joey posted about installing the KF bubble doors it says to install  fasteners (rivets) along the front edge. I assume they also believed it was nessesary to have a few fasteners tied into the frame.  I will look it over and install what I feel is appropriate. I have removed a lexan window that was installed using the 3M tape. I have to say that shit is serious. It really hold on good. I still don’t know that I’d soley trust the tape to hold the lexan to the frame. 

  17. 1avidflyer


    I believe the mount will work with either engine.  Occasionally  used radiators come up for sale.  Maybe Ed has one.  Also, you need the filler cap fitting and a overflow catch bottle plus the hoses.  Can't think of anything else off hand right now.  If it was me, and was looking at changing the engine, I would maybe consider an HKS.  4 stroke,  2 cylinder, very easy on fuel, and makes a bit more power than the 503, although a bit less than the 582.  JImChuk

  18. Jwhetnall


    Hello

    so I have the master cylinders already but will need the mechanical toe levers, so what do you think can a guy fab up these parts? It doesn't look to complicated.

    and question for you that have installed these, was there any issues with teeing into the system?

    regards Joe

  19. zadwit


    What parts do I need to remove my Rotax 503 air cooled and install a Rotax 582 liquid cooled engine? Can I reuse my engine mount?

    Where do I get a radiator, the hoses and parts and pieces to install a new 582. I think I will buy a new 582, any suggestions where to buy one???

    My 503 has 154 hours sine new and about 2 hours since decarbon so after I get the 582installed, Ill sell the 503 I think...Any comments or suggestions welcome please!!!

    Thanks, Mark Smith in Davenport, Wa.

  20. EDMO


    The cowl, I think covers your windshield bottom and air pressure is pushing it towards the plane -  I was talking about the front of the doors, especially with some kind of tape underneath, might be in a high-pressure wind stream that could get under them, or suck them outward? - That is why I thought they should be more secure in the front.  "Anything that can come loose, will come loose, sooner or later."   Who knows what the tape will do in the future? - I trust bolts.   EDMO

    1 person likes this