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  1. Yamma-Fox


    Here is a video of me testing ignition sources and fuel delivery:

    https://youtu.be/wLrP70CLfi8

    And below are tools that make life a zillion times better when doing carb work.  The long hex wrench reaches way in to get to the inner airbox screws and the upgraded carb float bowl screws, the jets are available in many sizes and come in pairs... so only order 2:

     

    FB_IMG_1542381752883.jpg

    FB_IMG_1542381792314.jpg

    FB_IMG_1542381763555.jpg

  2. BryceKat


    My MkIV had the dyna smooth on it when I bought it. It got destroyed when we lost a propellor blade, that’s another story! I replaced it with an original style mount.  The dyna smooth is heavier, more complex, and I’m sure but I never measured that it absorbs a couple of horsepower out of the engine.  The good side to it is that at idle, it is very smooth.  However, thanks to our man Joey, I use the trick of replacing the idle jets to #55’s which made it gust as smooth. So I personally am sticking with the original style mount and 55’s in the idler jet. Bryce

    1 person likes this
  3. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    I finished the installation of the heater core and cpu fan.  Total cost might be $60.00 bucks.  With outside temp at 24 degrees and water temp at 174 the heater core puts out lots of heat.  Will make for nicer flying this winter.

    I am about to embark on this same mission with The Machinist . I also like the looks of the setup Fred posted but seems like it might be hard getting one across the pond at a reasonable price. We have a major Radiator warehouse here locally that I'm told has about every shape and size radiator/heater core imaginable. Seems the fans are cheap. Add a shut off and some silicone hose and we should be good to go. It's never that easy but it sounds good!!

    :lmao: 

  4. lv2plyguitar


    I finished the installation of the heater core and cpu fan.  Total cost might be $60.00 bucks.  With outside temp at 24 degrees and water temp at 174 the heater core puts out lots of heat.  Will make for nicer flying this winter.

    1 person likes this
  5. nlappos


    A very important attribute is the useful load, regardless of the model type. What is the empty weight and max gross weight? A good Mark IV is about 550 empty and 1150 max gross, for 600 lbs of useful load. Many C's have about the same empty but only  950 to 1050 MGW

     

    Here is a site that shows the major changes: http://avidflyer.wikia.com/wiki/Models

    Here is a list of the MK IV differences:  http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/540-how-to-tell-if-its-a-mkiv/&do=findComment&comment=3003

     

    1 person likes this
  6. FredStork


    It is most likely a model C with later modifications retrofitted. Upgrades like luggage compartment, horisontal split cowling (both "D"), and round rudder (not sure when it was introduced) are very frequent. Model C Serial numbers are in the range 250 - 900 according to most sources. There is an avidflyer.wikia page that list the serial number ranges and major differences.

    http://avidflyer.wikia.com/wiki/Models

  7. 1avidflyer


    Just a bit of an update.  I got the plane back in mid July and sent in the paperwork to the FAA shortly thereafter.  Finally got the registration through and into my name a couple of days ago.  Mostly it was establishing a record of owners, one to the next.  I had a typed out bill of sale from the second owner to the third owner that the FAA would not accept.  Fortunatly I was after much searching able to track that second owner down and get him to sign a regular FAA bill of sale.  The next hurdle was going from the third owner to his widow, as he had passed away and willed everything to her.  The FAA doesn't accept wills.  They do allow the surviving spouse to fill out an "heir at law" form that is even available on their website.  Once that was done, it went through.  It did take several conversations with people in Oklahoma FAA registrations office before someone explained the heir at law thing well enough so I knew what they were talking about and she even sent me a form in the mail.  So even though the airplane's registration had been listed as purged from the FAA records, I was able to get it back into my name with a valid aircraft registration.  833DT lives on!   JImChuk

    PS  maybe some of this info will help others who are trying to resurrect old airplanes with expired paperwork

    1 person likes this
  8. wypaul


    You may want to do a little more research.  The way I read it Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 is the only oil currently recommended by Rotax. Mobil 1 covers a lot of oils.  The one that was previously deemed as acceptable was Mobil 1 4T which is motorcycle oil. It has the additives necessary for the Rotax gearbox, But is not suitable if you are running 100LL.

    http://docusearch.flyrotax.com/files/pdf/d06038.pdf