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  1. allonsye

    Thanks for the heads-up Keith. I can't afford to get away for the 912 class.  However, the 2-smoke class would definietly be worth my while and I would commit should you be hosting one in the future.  I'm acquainted with a few A&P's in the valley; I'll notify them you're looking to fill this class straightaway.



  2. cr125r847

    Jim, thanks for taking those pictures. I don't believe that is the problem with mine.

    I spent some time last night with a water level to get some measurements. Here is what I have so far:


    I leveled the fuselage and used the water level with a yard stick with 1/16" precision to get the measurements. I need to re-measure the flaperon bearing plate again, but otherwise the measurements should be fairly accurate.


    Part of the problem is the flaperons were not mounted correctly and the left flaperon is mounted higher than the right. You can see it in these pictures.


    Right flaperon mounting at wing root




    Left flaperon mounting at wing root


    I'm thinking I might fill the holes with thickened epoxy and remount both flaperons. I looked through the construction manuals and found the flaperon mounting instructions. The instructions in the C-Model and MK-4 differ.


    This is from the C-Model instructions. It specifies 54 degrees from the top surface of the wing.




    This is from the Mk-4 manual. It looks like they say to measure the 54 degrees from the extended wing rib. Maybe the measurement is not critical as long as they are the same on all of the ribs?


    Anyway, I believe the reason the flaperons do not line up when the wings are folded is a combination of the improper flaperon mounting and the left wing trailing edge is a little higher than the right. I should be able to fix the flaperon mounting but is the difference in the trailing edges on the left and right wings a cause for concern?








  3. saskavid

    Well the trick is to get the activation shaft of the master cylinder as close to the back of the rudder pedal as you can to get max leverage potential. You have a bit of room there to work with. You can tip or cant the tops of the brake pedals a bit further towards the pilot if you are comfortable with how that works for you physically or you can cut the tabs mounting tabs off the brake pedals and weld new ones on where they need to be, put the tops of the brake pedals where you personally like them to make everything work to your personal preference and get the most leverage you can. One thing to try and avoid in any mod is getting a condition known as an over center where the master cylinder actually starts to rotate back towards the redder pedal as opposed to away, where the system then has potential to act like a vise grip and lock itself up. 

  4. D-MELY

    Hello friends.

    I need for our Avid two Goodyear Caddymaster RIB 8.00 X 6 tires, or similar tires with a longitudinal profile, the same tires as you can see on the photos. Unfortunately, the tires in Germany are no longer available. We bought two Carlisle Turf Glide 8.00 X 6s. Unfortunately, the Turf Glide does not roll well on asphalt, they literally stick to the ground and that is very unpleasant in crosswinds conditions!

    We are urgently looking for tires with a longitudinal profile, like the Goodyear Caddymaster, and not a cros-profile like the turf glide tires.

    Do you have an idea?

    Best regards from Germany,





    Turf_Glide .jpg

  5. zadwit


    Check this out esp the ending...note the engine would not come below 3000 on landing coupled with piss poor brakes and a 25 mph direct crosswind from the right.

    IT was so violent, the left door flew open and my gopro landed in the grass, took me a while to find it.....

  6. 1avidflyer

    I took some pictures of the Avid A model today, and while I was at it, I snapped a couple of pics of where the rear spar attaches to the wing carry through.  Notice that the tops of both of the verticle tubes that the rear wing spar attaches to.  When you were showing the picture of your flaperons being different heights, I wondered if one of your tubes is higher than the other.  That would lift the back of the wing and the flaperon if one side was higher than the other.   Anyway, something to look at.  JImChuk




  7. EDMO


    The Avid manual says to scuff the spars with 360 grit sand paper when preparing them for gluing so I would be cautious about sanding them with100 grit.  I agree with Ed that you probably don't have to totally remove all the old glue, just the high spots. Insert the tanks and see if you can strap them together in the spars and get the center to center distance to be correct. (I used ratchet straps to do this and to hold the spars in tight when gluing.)  Once you get that you can drill the bolt and pin holes (with the tanks strapped in place) and can glue the tanks in after you do the spar inserts (unless these are still in the correct locations). Then you have to completely wrap the tanks and spars with fiberglass- 1 random sheet and 1 woven sheet to get the structural strength.




    Just to clarify my post about sanding the Hysol high spots with 100 grit - Although Kitfox says to sand out scratches on the spars with 100 grit, that is to be followed by finer sanding and polishing.  I didn't mean for you to sand close enough to scratch the spars - just to take off the high spots of Hysol.  Also, tightening fabric with a moving iron at 250F is not like holding the heat gun in one spot directly on the spars at that temperature.   EDMO

  8. zadwit

    Joey did you try to straighten your bent "bush " gear or toss it in the dumpster?

    Im going to try to straighten mine but it might end up in the dumpster.....

    I goundlooped in a 35 mph cross  wind brakes so worn out they didnt work only to about 2500 rpm, the KF2 has marginal rudder and my throttle stuck at 3300 on landing so in the ditch I went Itwasnt that big of a ditch, amybe 18" deep but I did have 600-6 tires so not much cushion there......

    Tomorrow Ill take the gear off and try to straighten it, if it kinks I might weld in a new peice but keeping it all in align is the problem... at leastithas bolt on GROVE axles so I can shim it some what if I can get close....but the coil spring are going in the nearest lake I can find...




  9. zadwit

    My brake pads are shot....I just got new ones in the mail today, HOWEVER, I installed a new set of Matco W62 wheels and single piston calipers and 800-6 tires and tried that and I had some brakes but not very good. THey were better than the 600-6   with the worn out pads so you are correct... WIth the wide landing gear and some braking it make a world of difference in trying to keep control in a strong cross wind.... If I waited til the wind died down, Id never fly. The only time Ive seen it calm is late at night in the dark and even then not always...daytime 15-25 mph all the time. I read Wyoming is the windiest state in the US...Around Fairbanks Alaska we had plenty of very calm days to fly which made it real nice... you could feel each little vibration in the plane....

    I had a earthstar gull with a 20 ft wing spand, 503 rotax, and I landed at 55-60 all the time in 25-30 mph cross winds, just come smoking in flaps up and being tricycle it tracked pretty straight, just a long roll out, crusied 100 at 6000rpm with a 3:1 "C" box and 66" 3 blade pusher prop... not exactly a stol plane. I would have kept it but no hangars here and I couldnt stand leaving it out in the wind all the time. Still I miss it. IT was a rocket compared to the kitfox.

  10. zadwit

    WHat started all this was a groundloop a few days ago in a KF2 with very poor brakes......I was so upset I was going to just get rid of it... but now I have calmed down and realize I had too many things go wrong and I didnt handle the situation very well.. I should have just landed in a wheatfield but I was worried the tires would sink in and flip me because they are all wet and soggy right now. ANyway I have repairts the tail and have the fabric glues back on. Have to finish the coating process. Same with wing, it was dead easy to fix because all that happened was the droop tip came loose from the rear spar and got a 2" crack in the fibreglas.

    My  biggest challenge is the gear leg. TOmorrow I will take it off and make some form blocks (1") ID and cut in have to support the tube so at to not flatten it and then try to set it all up on a sheet of 3/4" plywood under my tractor and used a railroad jack and see if  I can straighten the tube. Even it it kinks I can cut it out and weld in new.

    THe rear tube is bent slightly at the axle attach point....I have no idea if this will work or not. I have the stock gear I could reinstall but I like the wide gear, it makes it easier to fly. I also ordered a pile of stuff from Matco and Grove today and will work on getting better brakes before I take to the air again..I still plan on selling it but I need to make sure the brakes are as good as I can make them so as to not set some poor fool up for a wreck like me....

    ANy ideas on how to straighten that damn tube. IT is stiff as hell. 1" OD and probably .058" wall guessing



  11. C5Engineer

    I spoke with Mark today. He is working a full time job as well as doing this. He apologizes for any delays. I expressed to him that we are a patient bunch as long as people know up front it may be a few days for a response. He’s going to look into a disclaimer statement or an auto reply set up. He said it’s pretty amazing at the amount of email traffic and questions he is getting. Please continue to be patient and know that he is really trying hard at this it’s not a matter of him blowing folks off at all. 

  12. saskavid

    So what model of kitfox are you trying to get line psi out of and can only get 250 psi? I did enough work with aircraft braking systems on my avid I can pretty much tell what works ( what isn't going to work) and what is needed to get most any toe brake system punching out line psi. would be interesting to see a pic of what you have. What limited  pics of kitfoxes I have seen usually illustrate enough leverage and structural integrity to make enough line psi. I know from experience of making a pressure gauge hookup can be maddening trying to get the air out of the gauge  and get reliable readings. I know if your pads are old and burnt out from abuse and can't be conditioned the brakes will suck no matter what you do.

     Here is a couple of other threads talking about leverage and brake issues stuff that may be of some help.

  13. EDMO

    Thanks Chris!

    The downfall of a Bee schemed airplane is an absence of deniability.  Somebody called the cops on me, saying they thought an airplane was having trouble out in the desert.  When I got back to my home Airfield I got the tower asking me to call them!  Everything worked out, but a nice plain white airplane could be a benefit! 

    I don’t even want to think about having two projects hanging over my head!!!  Ha!  Keep plugging away...



    I think Leni may have the right attitude if you want to remain under the radar - Paint it like 10,000 others!  To the public, they are all Piper Cubs!  EDMO

  14. EDMO

    From what I have read, the inserts only give you about 10% more braking pressure - probably not worth the expense in your case.  I believe that 2.5:1 is the MC leverage that Matco showed on their drawings - check that out.  George at Matco is very helpful and you should try calling him if the better Pedal/MC ratio don't fix the problems.  EDMO

  15. Jenki

    Dear friends,

    last week we had the biggest aviation exhibition in Europe (for general aviation) AERO Expo 2018 Friedrichshafen. Sort of celebration for me and my friends, we are traveling nearly 1000 kilometers by car to visit this event.

    This year sort of mixture appeared here as you can see. Maybe not really rational, but ...

    Look at it. It is Bristell (my current aircraft type) but on the real Beringer Alaskan landing gear. I don't know, how it will work, but definitely I will ask to try it.

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    1 person likes this
  16. zadwit

    OK thanks, I know somewhere in here is the answer and Ill have to mod the brake pedals and or maybe get new master cylinders, slimmer ones that us a remote reservoir but i have to get this solved before I try to fly again... Its just too windy and not eveytime but occasionally I have to get on a brake hard to keep from ground looping......The other day I didnt have hardly any brakes and my plane turned into a merry go round......