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  1. Willja67


    Ripped all the white foam off, tweaked the blue foam a bit and used the previous white pieces as templates and I'm pretty happy with the lower cowl now. At some point in the near future i'll start plastering it with drywall mud and sand it smooth. Obviously gotta get the top done first. 

    I was a little surprised when measuring that the left "nostril" was a little narrower than the right. The size was dictated by the cowling mount portion of the engine mount. I guess that's due to the engine offset. I would have expected though that the center of the prop would have been on the centerline of the plane with the rear endof the engine kicked out not the other way around. 

    Got a line on a decent looking wood lathe that I'm going to go look at on Monday and if it's any good I'm going to learn how to use it to make a custom spinner.

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  2. Turbo


    I'll wager that the vapor pressure of any pure 2-stroke oil is way lower than that of gasoline, which means that the positive displacement oil pump can be expected to suck oil through that paper oil filter, even if it is partially wet.  However, once that paper element is soaked in oil, water's high surface tension will preclude it displacing the oil and wetting the paper.  The filter will in effect, become a water trap.  Visual inspection will tell if any water has thermally pumped its way into the oil tank, as it will show up as a harmless glob of water at the bottom of the filter, upstream of the paper.

    Before commiting to the paper oil fiter, however, I plan on conducting a flow test to validate acceptable oil flow without the oil pump, just gravity, and at a low ambient temperature.  I'm looking for an order-of-magnitude 1 floz/min flowrate. Piddly!

  3. 1avidflyer


    I think either one is fine in it's  place.  If I was doing the Kitfox 1 though, I would make the door opening as big as later models by removing the one angled tube at the back of the door.  Then adding the steel around the door like I did to widen things would add some strength back into the mix perhaps.  Course then you would need to make new doors however.  I was a carpenter by trade as well, (still a member of Carpenter's union 606, Virginia Mn. ) though now I'm retired for the last 12 years and living the good life.  JImChuk

    1 person likes this
  4. Willja67


    I beefed up the sides of my Kifox 4 as well, and used .040" crome moly steel to do it with.  Also widened the fuselage 2" on each side while I was at it.   I do have the grove gear for that plane.  JImChuk

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    I also saw one of your builds where you bonded wood to the side of the cockpit frame to accomplish the same thing, what are the pros and cons? Being a carpenter by trade I'm definitely favoring the wood extensions. 

  5. Willja67


    The Bush gear will also destroy the side of your plane if you don't do the reinforcements.  There was a guy with a Yellow Kitfox one that built his bush gear and did a  thread on it getting bent up. Maybe some one out there knows his name.

    i saw the pics of your build TJay and it looks like you did the same thing. What thickens steel did you use for those gussets?

    I know your plane is not really a KF1 anymore, more like a KF2++++ but curious what your empty weight is? Also saw your vertical tail extension and haven't gone through all your posts to see if it was stiff enough? I saw a comment about possibly needing to reinforce it. Since I'm going to more than likely be recovering my plane my plan right now is to use some type of wood and square up the tips of the vertical and horizontal stabs and then cover over that.  Then at some point in the future do like the Mangy Fox and add larger control surfaces with balance tabs on them. So just wondering if the tail especially the vertical is strong enough for that?

  6. TJay


    The Bush gear will also destroy the side of your plane if you don't do the reinforcements.  There was a guy with a Yellow Kitfox one that built his bush gear and did a  thread on it getting bent up. Maybe some one out there knows his name.

  7. Willja67


     

    The gussets on the sides won't do you any good unless you are converting to grove gear. Then you want to do them differently. 

     

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    What thickness of steel are you using here? I read elsewhere you've got a KF4, so maybe my -1 wouldn't need steel as thick since its a lighter plane? Just trying to save weight.  I've got some bush gear on order and after seeing this thread and damaging the lower longeron on my plane getting it off the trailer I'm thinking I'm definitely going to have to recover the fuselage. 3 upsides: 

    1. The fabric paint job is really heavy so i might actually come out even or maybe a lb or 2 lighter (if i only replaced the fuselage fabric)

    2. I can widen the fuselage a little at the cockpit.

    3. I'll get the chance to inspect things better.

    The huge downside is that it'll take a long time to save the money up to do it. 

  8. akflyer


    The main issue with paper filters is water.. if water gets in the system it will plug off that filter right now.  Been there, done that, damn near had the tee shirt.  The electric boost pump saved my butt and kept me out of the trees.  

  9. akflyer


    Really, the only part of the seat truss that needs a gusset is way inboard, where the bungees wrap around it.  After a hard landing with old, weak bungees and too-tight limit cables, I found I had crimped the top tube of the seat truss, so had it cut out and replaced.  After this I put in plywood gussets, held in place with interference fit and zip ties, and have not put on new limit cables.  The so-called type-1 bungees sold by Aircraft Spruce & Specialty work well, and can withstand a 3-G landing.  Make up the ends near max stretch, though.  My testing revealed that they could stretch to 200% of their original length and could definitely tolerate 100+ lb forces.  With 7 wraps, that's 1400 lbs per side.  I was unable to test those bungees to failure with my limited, cobbled-up test rig..  

    unless you want to eventually bend up your bird, the additional gussets are very highly suggested.  especially the fuse sides.  This is a known issue that has been solved with the additional gussets.  This is double extra triple needed if you decide to use one of the "bush gears" that are currently on the market.

    I am set up to fab up the first set of the new gear I will be making my next hitch home and will be beating the heck out of it and see how it holds up.

    :BC:

     

  10. japowell


    Fellows, I am trying to get the spar stiffeners out of the wings and I can't find anything that will loosen the glue.  What is the trick to this?  Also, the one stiffener I can see looks like regular plywood.  It looks to be a 3 ply.  Also, they didn't center the stiffeners on the strut fitting.  Should it be?  Thanks for the help.

    Jim

  11. smartguy


    KITFOX IV 1050, ROTAX 912 • $17,000 • FOR SALE • Model 4-1050 Serial #1556 The kit has been covered and painted. Workmanship is excellent. I bought this in 2015 to replace my Kitfox 3 which has a 582. No time to finish it. Always stored in climate controlled conditions. It will need a prop and electrical. I bought many things with the anticipation of finishing it. How many extras go with will depend on the buyer and the price which is paid. 0 time Rotax 912 Serial # 4152348. Just plane $13,000. Plane and engine $17000. Will not sell engine separately. Wings finished and stored at my hanger. All parts labeled and put in containers • Contact Dean Martinson, Owner - located Estes Park, CO USA • Telephone: 970 586-2653 • Posted October 18, 2018 • Display Specs Page • Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser • Recommend This Ad to a Friend • Email Advertiser • Save to Watchlist • Report This Ad• View Larger Pictures

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    1 person likes this
  12. Turbo


    Really, the only part of the seat truss that needs a gusset is way inboard, where the bungees wrap around it.  After a hard landing with old, weak bungees and too-tight limit cables, I found I had crimped the top tube of the seat truss, so had it cut out and replaced.  After this I put in plywood gussets, held in place with interference fit and zip ties, and have not put on new limit cables.  The so-called type-1 bungees sold by Aircraft Spruce & Specialty work well, and can withstand a 3-G landing.  Make up the ends near max stretch, though.  My testing revealed that they could stretch to 200% of their original length and could definitely tolerate 100+ lb forces.  With 7 wraps, that's 1400 lbs per side.  I was unable to test those bungees to failure with my limited, cobbled-up test rig..  

  13. flyboy01


    Alright! Tubing is on its way! BTW has anyone ever tried straightening Grove Gear? The pilot's side is bent in about ~4-5 inches. What are your opinions on Grive vs Cabane vs Standard? Does anyone have a set of gear they would be willing to part with for cheap? 

  14. Av8r3400


    I used a couple scrap pieces of 5/4” treated deck boards under the seat of my old plane to keep the pan off the linkages. 

    I attached them to the tubes below with a little hysol and zip ties.