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It really does not matter who makes them, they all operate on the same basic principal.  Yes you can set them up dual just like the MC4.

I was wondering how a small (3/8 or 1/2"?)tube would compare to the wood stringers in bending strength when you stretch the fabric.

EDMO

Thanks Jack,

I also have a pair of Grove MCs, and Grove Brakes, so this mixture will probably fall in the "Experimental" category.

EDMO

So I just finished this new plane cause I had so much fun with the single seater on floats I bought a two seater , only problem is it doesn't have enough power to pick me and my wife up safely (only climbed 200 fpm) so at six hours on airframe and power plant I'm going to yank the engine off and get the 670 from Rick .

Just wondering how the install went for other members , I know it's a different type plane so I'm sure I won't have the exhaust issue, but still wondering how everything else went as far as jetting and so on.

Ed,

Doesn't look like anyone has experience using these. I was given good advice when I called MATCO with brake or wheel questions.

Jack

You can use the stringer to make the lines how ever you like them.  My Avid has a couple stand offs welded to the frame and a tube was added instead of the wood stringer to change the shape of the bottom of the fuse to more of a straight line like your thinking.

Like Ed said it keeps the fabric off the cross tubes and gives it shape.

The PA-15 had a Lycoming O-145 engine.  The PA-17 had the Continental A-65-8, No starter or generator on either.

Wow.  I never knew the -15 had a Lycon in it from the factory.  All of the -15s I've ever seen had C65 motors...

Cool.  Thanks for the information.

From what I remember, the Continental mount will fit the C-75, C-85, and C-90 engines except for a -14.  That series used the Lord mounts, same as an O-200.

The PA-15 had a Lycoming O-145 engine.  The PA-17 had the Continental A-65-8, No starter or generator on either.

all the stringer does is keep the fabric off of the cross tubes.

EDMO

Hey guys I am ready to glue up my stringers and stand offs, I have seen a few pics of this and it looks like the bottom stringer is glued right to the bottom of the fuselage, why does that one not have the stand off blocks? When I pull a string line from the lower spar carry through to the tail spring there is about a 2 inch gap in the middle. What is the reasoning for not making a nice strait like with the stringer there? 

I donno - I got mine thru Coast Guard supplier.

Check shops that sell hydraulic fittings and hoses.

EDmo

Or, check Loctite for a dealer near you.

Is 545 sold at auto parts stores? I need to reseal a fitting in the steering box of my rock crawler.

Most will caution against tape, but that is because very often it isn't used correctly.

It gets wrapped in the wrong direction, not tight enough and as Ed mentioned, too far to the end of the fitting. In my career, I have seen droplets of sloppily applied liquid sealer cause blockages, too.

Care must be observed with fitting sealer products of any type.

We used Loctite 545 on all hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and non-stainless bolts in the Coast Guard when I was a maintenance supervisor, since there is a lot of corrosion on boats. Liquid PTFE sealant was used on some water lines, but never the tape.

We used the liquid PTFE (Teflon) on pneumatic fittings at Chrysler. The PTFE Tape sheds strings which can get into air and hydraulic valves and cause a lot of trouble.

No sealant should be on the first two threads of a fitting.

EDMO

I have used Loctite 565 and 569 with excellent results, although EdMO's 545 is probably a better choice.  I just happened to have 565 and 569.  I have heard not to use PTFE tape because of the ability to create a hazardous stoppage.

Loctite 545 hydraulic sealer. I also use this as a medium thread-locker/protectant sealer for bolts.

You do not need to use heat to remove fittings or bolts.

EDMO

When you guys plumbed your adapters in to the master cylinder what did you use as a thread sealant thanks .rusty

Welcome to the site Brad!! Gobs more of information on here.

Doug -

I'm new to this site, but I just wanted to let you know this post is BY FAR the best thing I have ever seen on seat constructions. This was 10 times as informative as the Kitplane article. Bravo! Outstanding work on all accounts. My butt thanks you.

Brad

Does anyone know if the MC3 can be set up for dual brakes the same as the MC4?

Would there be any difference in braking? I have both.

EDMO

Here is the scoop on Continental motor mounts - There should be lots of old Piper mounts around. But remember, lots of Pipers didn't have starter or electrical. It has to be for a -12 engine to have enough space for the starter.

When the C-65 was replaced by an O-200 on my friend's Luscombe, he used the C-65 motor mount - The O-200 uses the same case as the C engines, but the mount holes in the O-200 case are larger and use larger rubbers - They put bushings in the O-200 case holes to take the smaller (bolts?) rubbers. Guess this makes sense?

The C75,85,90 mounts are the same as the C65 - I would bet that Piper never changed the mount design for any of them. When we put the C90-8 in the J3, the original C65 mount and rubbers was used.

I don't know which Piper models used Continental engines with starters.

EDMO

I have not forsaken my beloved brethren, I still have the Avid and its not leaving the stable anytime in the foreseeable future.  I have a partner in the 180 so I at least get to live in a 2 story cardboard box   I got wifi in the igloo mr so no worries about keeping the site up and running

Just say hi to Leni as you go past the cardboard box he will be living in, next to the airport.

I just hope he has Internet there to keep the site up and running.