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  1. Ronin


    Look in the classifieds, there is a guy (me) selling a complete Whelen set as supplied by Kitfox for quite a bit less than new. ;)

  2. Shipl14


    Thanks for the answers. What kind of lights are other guys using on their Avid/Kitfoxes. Most of what i see at Spruce is big bucks and too large anyway.

  3. donhallwr


    Getting a new insurance agent, and he had a question I couldn't answer.  Never thought about it actually.  "What is the difference in a Mark 4 and a Bandit?"  We read engines, but my Bandit has neither of the Rotax listed (has Subaru). Is there a simple answer?

  4. Avid90


    Hi Steve, 

    This thread is four threads down from yours:  exhaust "Y" too long??? also rudder pedal reinforcements?

     A few owners have experienced cracking in the rudder pedal assembly.  I would think a wrap of 4130 down the rudder pedal tube, around the torque tube and back up the other side would be an alternative reinforcement, as he did with the tube that the rudder cable is attached to.

  5. allonsye


    Keep in mind adding the second radiator adds weight and drag that you will notice. I got your PM. I will post some pics on how mine was routed. I ditched almost 15lbs off the nose when I went to a single belly radiator. 

    Here, here what Joey says.  Moreover, I'd be concerned about hot-air intake to the carbs and the consequent HP decrease.  If I had the cheek rad set up, I'd definitely have a fresh air NACA like in the cowl ensuring the intake was getting cool air not heated air.

  6. Chris Bolkan


    Your w&b tells me you need 10-15 lb in the tail and your problems will be solved. Try it! Tape it to the handles or attach it any other way you can. You will be amazed.

    chris

  7. flywise


    Hey Jim,

    you're probably right when considering normal aircraft ops but when shit hits the fan and you come to a very sudden stop (like in a crash) it has been known that the pilot/pax could have survived the crash (even at 10 G's) but where killed or seriously injured by badly attached items  like elt's behind pilot's head, fire extinguishers, axe, batteries, bad seatbelt attachment, luggage etc.

    All items/bodies at a high deceleration rate become heavy and if not strongly attached transform into fast killing missiles...

    Just my 2 boring cent's to keep as safe as possible......

  8. 1avidflyer


    I have the same battery in my Avid,  and I think it's only about 12 lbs.  My strap looks to be about the same size.  At 10 - 12 gs of force, you may have other things to worry about besides just the battery coming loose.  JImChuk

    1 person likes this
  9. Brodstol


    Good point, it was the original design that I modified to be able to fit the new battery. The original design had a bungee cord holding down the battery, lol.

  10. flywise


    Hey Brodstol, nice progress.

    The one thing I can see I would really look at is your aluminum ? battery strap and your tray mounting. Your battery weight must be around 25Lbs and your hold down device should hold at least 10-12 g's (might be even more) which equates to 250-300Lbs.....you definitely do not want your battery come loose in heavy turbulence or crash...

    Here a good mounting method picture: 

     

     

    battery installation.jpg

  11. EDMO


    Hi Steve,

    FWIW, I've attached the current KF nose gear install instructions and exploded parts diagram. Might be of help if you run across one for sale or decide to fabricate something similar.

    Also, with respect, please reconsider big pics in your sig. They take up a LOT of thread space and having to scroll thru them on a mobile device every time you post is a PITA.

    Cheers :BC:

    Kitfox SS Nose Gear Install.pdf

    Doug,  I realize that you posted this for the nose gear drawings, but just for info:  The main gear attachment drawings are obsolete - Kitfox no longer uses that Rube Goldberg (Skystar) design for the mounts - They use two radius blocks on each side.  I don't know if the nose gear mounts have changed since then.  EDMO

  12. dholly


    Hi Steve,

    FWIW, I've attached the current KF nose gear install instructions and exploded parts diagram. Might be of help if you run across one for sale or decide to fabricate something similar.

    Also, with respect, please reconsider big pics in your sig. They take up a LOT of thread space and having to scroll thru them on a mobile device every time you post is a PITA.

    Cheers :BC:

    Kitfox SS Nose Gear Install.pdf

  13. nlappos


    To get back to the original question, I would not mess with the bypass line. I’d plumb the belly from the regular pump outlet directly, and then have the belly’s outlet feed the nose (if you leave them in).

    I’m in the same boat with my new 670. I think I will add the belly radiator and leave one nose radiator on to drive my cabin heater.

    1 person likes this
  14. marcusofcotton


    Steve, I'll try to get some pics soon, hopefully tonight. Thousands of aircraft out there with free castoring nosewheel. It is a bit different at first but you get used to it very quickly.

  15. jackak


    I can't tell you how this worked out because shortly after setting it up, I installed the conventional gear. The large hole below the rodend attach bolt on the cross-tube was drilled to allow access to the brake cylinder mount bolt.

    Jack

  16. jackak


    Or you could do something like this with your existing nose gear. I welded a pair of tabs onto the cross tube for the left rudder pedal, lowered the attach point for the push-pull tube and eliminated the sharp angle that existed originally on the stock setup. I believe I got the info from a builder in the UK.

    Jack 

    119.JPG

    1 person likes this
  17. C5Engineer


    I have some of the original documentation that came with my kit. Beings there are thousands of 582s out there and I’ve yet to see anyone flying with one I’m guessing it was not very popular. 

  18. EDMO


    Here is photo of my nose gear - As I said, "Not Finished' - The side brace tubes are not welded on it - they bolt to fuselage at lower front corners, and the spring probably has to be changed to a heavier one, and the pivot tube shortened.  The angle of the pivot tube to the ground is 5 degrees.   It may need a shimmy dampener?   It has to be clear of your engine.  Buying one is a lot easier.  EDMO

    post-399-0-32559800-1409429768_thumb.jpg

  19. Steveirving


    Steve,  I don't think the RV - Kitfox nose gear will fit anything you now have on the Avid - There were two types of these - one attached to fittings welded to the front frame, and the other attached to the engine mount.   I will look for a photo or two of my homemade gear, but as I said it is unfinished and untested.  You might have a better idea.  EDMO

    Thanks EDMO.  Sounds good.

  20. EDMO


    Steve,  I don't think the RV - Kitfox nose gear will fit anything you now have on the Avid - There were two types of these - one attached to fittings welded to the front frame, and the other attached to the engine mount.   I will look for a photo or two of my homemade gear, but as I said it is unfinished and untested.  You might have a better idea.  EDMO

    1 person likes this