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  1. Willja67


    I really need to learn the lesson to not overthink things too much and just go ahead and do something. I spent a week and a half wondering what the best way to temporarily join the 2 halves back together so i could lay up the joiner strip and originally was going to use popsicle sticks with dabs of bondo but that stuff takes too long to set and i finally realized that hot glue and foam had worked well since i started the project and it worked just fine again.

    I'm going with the 2 piece cowl. Right now the slight inconvenience of very slightly limited access is far outweighed by ease of construction and however many ounces of weight i'll save. 

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    1 person likes this
  2. mack55


    I'm staying down in Gulf Shores for a while this winter, but I see Melbourne is quite a ways away.  As far as a new tail spring, the Avid MK IV uses a 1 1/2" wide tailspring that is necked down to 1 1/4" where it meets the tailwheel.  Some Maule tailwheels are set up for 1 1/4" wide springs, and some are 1 1/2".  Matco tailwheel springs can use either width.  You wouldn't have to neck the spring down to 1 1/4" if you have a tailwheel that will fit the 1 1/2" spring.  You can maybe find a spring shop to cut and bend you one locally, if you know the length and angel it needs to be bent at.  I've made up my own springs at times.  Not that hard to do if you have a press to cold bend the spring and a good drill press to drill the holes.  If you go with 2 or 3 leaves of springs, you will have to drill a second hole further back to go through the spring leaves and bottom plate in the plane the spring goes up against.  Originally, Avid only used one leaf spring, and the channel it sits in is deep enough to keep it from swinging sideways with only one bolt holding it on.  Not enough if you go with more leaves though, and that's why you will need the second bolt.  Maybe this picture will help if my words are hard to understand.  JImChuk

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    JimChuck thanks for the pics. I will be in Pensacola next week for xmas.. Do I need to go to the double spring? My dad does have that on his but mainly for the extra weight of the EA81, heavy hauler wing, and wings are folded most of the time...

    Thanks,

    Pat

  3. mack55


    Welcome to the board Pat.  Thanks for sharing about your most recent experience of the worst kind and glad you and pax were unscathed (but likely in a state of shock for awhile).

    I went with the 2 leaf from Wausau and have been using a Maule 101 with the swivel in locked configuration and it's worked very very well for me.

    In time, you'll figure out what caused the engine failure.  Please let us know for the benefit of others safety and well being. 

    Thanks for the reply and def will!

  4. HarbinAK


    Yes pretty much a brand new kit.  The fella I bought it from in Soldotna had the fuse, struts ect. powder coated, think he installed the controls and landing gear.  Lots of work to do for sure!  So far everything seems to be here in the kit..... new grey head 582..not sure if I’m going to send it out to get checked out... be another thread.

  5. Av8r3400


    Just bought a Kitfox 4 with a 2800 Rotec engine. The prop is on the small side at  70 inches with pitch unknown.

    I have not flown it yet, but am thinking that the prop is quite small for this engine.

    What size prop are Rotec operators using????

    Mark in Orlando 

     

    I have a 78x48" Prince on my model IV.  I think Mike Kraus has a Prince on his Rotec.  I don't know what size it is...

  6. Av8r3400


    It's the factory Rotax muffler kit but it might be a newer model than the one you have.  The muffler has ball and socket connections for the pipes to the muffler.  The kit has all the socket ends, the pipe ends that fit into the head, 4 180 degree elbow fittings, all the pipes and all the springs and spring tabs.  It just takes a talented bender and welder to complete.

    My exhaust is a Kitfox factory system.  It doesn't use ball and socket joints, that is the major flaw in it's design in my opinion.

  7. 1avidflyer


    I think I  would maybe slosh them with KBS coating gas tank sealer.  That would help to protect them from leaking.  It will cost maybe $75 or so, but may buy some peace of mind on them leaking at some later date.  Easier to do it now before they are in the wings, although that is fully possible as well.  JImChuk

  8. nlappos


    Hi guys! Gonna get back to work on the wings after a long absence. We’ve relocated the project.  How do you guys feel about the fiberglass fuel tanks? Issues?

    Wyatt

    There are ethanol capable fiberglass tanks, I have them. Much better than aluminum wing tanks, which are reported to not flex and therefore cause tank cracks.

  9. Larry


    OH that's a terrific reply by Van, LOL. 

    We currently have a fella running up and down the runway with a Mazda Rotory in his Long-Eze. OMG, the very worst auto engine conversion ever conceived! Very loud and so annoying with only 2/3s the thrust required to push the Long-Eze around. No way is that going to work out and there isn't a noise cancelling headset built to offset this sucker's noise, to help either he inside or us on the ground, LOL. Awful 

    Now, the little Subaru turns a reasonable low RPM and this particular conversion I have is so nicely done. It's Turbo-Charged and suppose to produce a sweet 118 HP.  I've got everything that went with this original installation too. The old guy (original seller) had it mounted in a Zenith, which was previously wrecked by the very same builder (he bought this upgraded NSI converted engine to replace whatever he had in there initially, so I understand). After a time, along with threats from his wife, it was mutually decided to discard the airframe entirely, choosing not to attempt further repairs to the airframe, which was poorly built initially, from what I gather. So heck, I've got a really nice set up for somebody:  Complete wire harness back to the panel, very complete & great instrument panel cluster, key start switch & breakers, the complete & new Zenith chrome-molly engine mount to the firewall, heat wrapped exhaust system all there, all of the beautiful NSI produced dampened engine mounts in place with the new Zenith mount, the NSI polished gear reduction unit with all of the very well thought out engine mods they provided back then, including the dual ignition system they built in, and so much more. 

    As a bonus feature, I've even got the beautiful NSI cockpit adjustable electric propeller hub with the 3-bladed Warp Drive set up. Everything is brand new, never run, never flown, still in the crate, if you will, as built by NSI. This is truly a smoking great deal for someone with the right airframe (another Zenith most likely, but there are other great candidates for this water-cooled powerplant). Man, I'll accept any reasonable offer for the whole package at this point. $3,500 will take it all. THAT is a good CASH conversion in my view, LOL. Nothing else comes close, value wise, otherwise. 

    I was hell bent on modifying the little Avid Model C, but ain't happening. I don't have that much time left on this earth to hammer out all that I'd need to do to make it happen. 

    So pass the word my friends. This IS a good buy for a Mark IV or some other suitable kit plane. 

    Thanks all for your inputs. 

    LKL

     

     

     

     

  10. Buckchop


    Nice looking KF so far, lucky to find a model 3 was it unbuilt? Sould b fun as hell i love my model 1's. Im not far from u (100miles)  

  11. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    After doing a little research on the hoses needed to tap into the existing water hoses for my heater core I found that the heater hoses on the 582 are 22 mm (7/8). Most of you saw the recent post on the GT 500 Quicksilver crash where they determined the cause of the engine stoppage to be the lack of water in the system due to a leaking hose. I believe this was caused by using 1'' hose on a 22 mm inlet/outlet. When I was installing my radiators last summer I could not find 22 mm hose anywhere locally. I had to order it online from Pegasus Racing before finally finding an outlet locally. So now I have these cool 22 mm silicone heater hoses on my plane and now I need to tap into them. 1" x 1" x 5/8 will not work. There use to be a heater sold on Aircraft Spruce called the neat heater. It was a neat little set up but very expensive. Over $400 for the unit and and $250 for the kit to connect it to he plane. The kit amounted to a bunch of hose clamps, hose connectors, tee's, water shut off, switch and wiring harness. When I started this project I saved a few photos of the neat heater. One of the photos had some custom made aluminum tee's. it looks like they bought the aluminum connectors and had them tig welded so they were the correct size. 22 mm x 22 mm x 16 mm (7/8 x 7/8 x 5/8). 

    My plan is to buy the components and fabricate some correct tee's for my system unless I can find someone who already makes these. So far not luck. 

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  12. nlappos


    1avidflyer is quite right. One way to explain it is to be sure the axis of pivot of the TW is as near to vertical as possible. The spring often bends flatter with time, so getting it bent steeper, so the wheel stands more vertical, is a strong contributor to fixing shimmy.

  13. 1avidflyer


    If the tail spring is bent straighter then it should be, the tailwheel can shimmy because the caster angle of the tailwheel is wrong.  I'm half owner in an Aeronca  Chief that had the tailwheel spring flattened somewhat.  The Scott 3200 tailwheel started to shimmy, and we cured it with a new tail spring that had the right amount of bend in it.  JimChuk

    2 people like this
  14. 3CW


    Hi guys! Gonna get back to work on the wings after a long absence. We’ve relocated the project.  How do you guys feel about the fiberglass fuel tanks? Issues?

    Wyatt