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  1. Chris Bolkan

    Marvel Mystery oil is another gas/oil additive that has a strong following in the aviation community. It has no effect whatsoever on fuel tank resin or Buna-N. So whether you are in the "this stuff worked wonders"  or the "this is snake oil" camp, at least it won't hurt the fuel system if you use it.

    1 person likes this
  2. Chris Bolkan

    I do not know what seafoam DOES do, but I do know through previous testing of fuel and additives for my Magnum wing tank repair that seafoam does not soften or harm the fiberglass resin of the fuel tanks and in case you are curious does not harm buna-N that a lot of fuel system o-rings are made of.

    2 people like this
  3. Columbus

    I ride old motorcycles known as a Shovelhead Harley, these are known for losing a boot to carb seal and sucking air in this turning the rear piston to sand! (Ask me how I know! C’mon...ask) I’m really glad to see you got back down the right way. I will be adding dropping the upper cowl and checking my carbs to the preflight- I’ve been just reaching in and wiggling - I’ll be changing that to more aggressive maneuvers 

  4. FredStork

    I think I used Plastic Padding (I am Swedish after all... even if it is nowadays owned by loctite) but anything that works with the glass fiber cowling and get stiff enough would do the trick. 


  5. 1avidflyer

    I'm scared of adatives, can't really give you a reason why, but that's how I feel about it.  If I was worried about cleaning things out, I would do it manually.  YMMV  JImChuk

    PS  one reason I don't like addatives is this.  Had some fuel with an octane booster in it.  Had a skinny plastic bottle that I would sometimes use for testing fuel to see if it had any alcohol in it.  Did a test with this octane booster enhanced fuel, and when I came back and looked at it, I found that it had melted a hole in the plastic at the bottom and the fuel was gone.  Never did that with the regular untreated gas I tested.  YMMV

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  6. Yamma-Fox

    So I am told my tanks will leak if I run ethanol fuel in the wing tanks, but would it be OK to add Sea Foam?

    I'd like to run a high dose through during test running of the Yamaha... to clean the entire system out good, top cyl, valves, ect.

    Opinions ?

  7. 1avidflyer

    I've never done a Kitfox, but the Avid is almost the same.  Here are some pics of rib tails I built to Avids.  With the repair parts in the pictures, you remove everything of the rib behind the spar, and part of the cap strip ahead of the spar.  Glue in the new part, and that fixes it.  Another method I used on my Avid MK IV is shown in this bunch of posts.  Maybe this will answer some of your questions, or produce more of them..... :-)  JImChuk

    PS  it seems I've answered this same question earlier in the week.  Did your read my reply?




  8. dholly

    To add to the above... just keep in mind that there are continuous operations at the UL field all day and into each evening for the entire week. UL field arrivals and departure time slots are limited, typically first thing in the a.m. and again early evening. Those time slots can be superceeded at anytime by show schedule changes, airport closure due to incidents etc. There is a UL field flight ops telephone # in the NOTAM you can check in with regarding field status for your arrival.

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  9. FredStork

    I never liked the original system here you have to bend the cowling when closing it. My solution was to cement a metal pin and a corresponding metal tube on the 2 halves of the cowling, one set on each side obviously...



    It works great and provide a very good positioning when closing the cowling. As long as I stay subsonic ther is no tendency for the cowl to "gap"


    6 people like this
  10. Turbo

    The pictured tool greatly facilitated the installation of new bungees on my Avid.  The tool is a wooden gantry that stands on top of the seat tube, is stabilized above by a strap to a structural tube, and supports a block and tackle with 6:1 purchase.  Additionally, a small fairlead and clamcleat are used to quickly secure the line.  For line I used green paracord.  I used parts from my collections of yahtie and windsurf stuff.  In order to grip and stretch the bungee, I used a small camcleat mounted on a bent piece of 1/8" aluminum.   In mounting the bungees I was able to pull each wrap tight with the block & tackle setup.  Vicegrip pliers were particularly useful for clamping already-tensioned bungee cord to the landing gear on the bottom.  They held well and were easy to put on and take off.  For each wrap I tried to stretch the bungee as much as I could, so that in the final wrap the end loop would start off already through the aperture in the bottom of the airplane.  I then simply fed a 12-15" piece of paracord thru the eye of the bungee, tied a simple loop knot in the other end, and attached it to the block.  After lifting with the block & tackle, and maneuvering it onto the hook with a screwdriver, I simply untied the loop and pulled the paracord piece out of the eye.  Done!  Solo! (Jimmie Durante would wag his substantial nose and say "hotcha!".)

    Some other comments are in order.  Out of curiosity I stretch-tested a plain hardware-store bungee (Installed on the plane by a previous owner) for comparison with the Mil-spec Type-1 3/8" bungee cord sold by Aircraft Spruce & Specialty.  I was gobsmacked at the difference!  The Mil Type-1 bungee is about 3X stiffer, and will go up beyond 120 lbs per strand, whereas the hardware store stuff more-or-less stopped stretching around 35 lbs.  The Mil Type-1 stuff will stretch to double its 0-tension length.  Whatever you do, DON'T USE THE HARDWARE-STORE STUFF!.  My calculations indicate that 7 wraps of the Mil Type-1 bungees can handle a 3-G landing at my TOGW of 916lbs, but the outward gear deflection is almost 19 degrees from the 0-G gear position,  and the average bungee cord stretch is more like 5 inches!  This analysis even modeled the inward roll of the contact patch relative to the wheel as the gear splays out.  I was unable to stretch either bungee to failure, but would love to know how much tension they can take!  Online one can find many purveyors of different kinds of bungee.  If you insist on wandering off of the righteous path, I heartily recommend stretch testing, followed by analysis.  Avid's recommendation for the safety cables is to allow 3".bungee deflection.  I'd go to 5", or maybe leave them off like Joey did, just adding a bungee inspection to my pre-flight inspection list.  If you, like I, bought your bird used, I would definitely take a careful look at the LG bungees.  Are they single-flecked (hardware-store) or double-flecked (type-1)?  Is there adequate deflection capability in the safety cables?  (My airplane was a double whammy on these questions, and I needed to have my seat tube repaired after a hard landing.)




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  11. Av8r3400

    So to verify:

    1) It will be OK to use the UL approach with our Avids? 

    2) and also camp there?

    3) and not be looked down upon for landing and parking where we were not supposed to?

    I'm not exactly sure how to interpret the official guidance document wrt my Avid.

    Thanks! :-)


    First and foremost:  Get a copy of the NOTAM.  Link.   Read the entire thing, but especially understand page 19.

    1). Yes your Avid is perfectly welcome at the Ultralight Field.

    2). Yes you are perfectly welcome to camp under your wing in the Ultralight area.

    3). You are supposed to be there.

    What is "the official guidance document"?


    This video shows the pattern to land to the Northwest:  Link





  12. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    Fred Stork has the best fix/set up for this part of the cowling-it’s MUCH better than stock set up and would solve this problem. It simple and durable. Get in touch with him, you’ll be glad you did! All the Best, Bryce

    Thanks Bryce!

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