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  1. cowlove

    Posted

    While running the Catalina a few times to tune the prop pitch in anticipation of engine break-in runs, I noticed that the prop is slipping slightly.  Never enough to notice it directly while running, but some index marks I made between the prop shaft and the PTO shaft seem to be creeping during any run that I applied momentary full power to check static RPM.   

     

    I was fairly certain this wasn't acceptable, so I tore down the gearbox ($180 special puller, check) and reassembled the friction cone, adhering to the service bulletins on the topic (increased torque for the big nut, loctite adhesive compound on the cone surfaces, etc).  

     

    It still slipped.   I tore down the gearbox again, this time taking every step I could to make sure surface prep, adhesive compound, and fastener torque was as good as I could make it.  I fully torqued the nut without the lock washer and with thread lubricant, to ensure the gear was as fully seated as it could be with those wrench settings, then cleaned the threads and replaced and torqued the nut with the specified loctite.  

     

    It still creeps.  

     

    I still assume this is not acceptable, but I thought I would verify.  Is the friction cone designed for some creep?  

     

    Didn't think so.  Back to the workbench. 

     

    J

     

     

  6. sprucetree

    Posted

    I want to thank everyone for their efforts, I was able to successfully register tonight. I've been very busy for the last few weeks, and haven't taken the time to check this forum. I know that may sound lame, but it's the truth.

    Richard

  7. EDMO

    Posted

    Joey,    Those are great photos - However, what showed up the first time was only about the top 1/10th of the photo - the rest was blank - are you fooling me, and you re-posted them?   Hope you had a good flight too.

    EDMO

  10. C5Engineer

    Posted

    I was invited over to a private strip today to have lunch. It was 90 miles away and a nice cruise. Put 3.0 on the Hobbs. And did some dinking around along both ways. I landed at an airport about 30 miles away where a buddy is decking out a 170 with a Backcountry theme and it was gusting to 24 kts. Taxiing was sporty so I took off right in front of his hangar! Didn't take many pics but got a few playing with the settings on our new DLSR camera that's way smarter than I am.

     

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    Owner of the property

     

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  11. EDMO

    Posted · Edited by Ed In Missouri

    NOS .063 flanged aluminum IP, 43"wide and 11" high, with removable panel for vibration mount, holes cut for 6-pack.   Should fit Magnum, others - can be cut narrower.

    I wont make another for this price of $100 + shipping.   This was made for my Maule Experimental a long time ago - just found it while looking for other parts.

    Photo shows dust and finger marks - included at no extra charge.

    EDMO 

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  14. thebriman

    Posted · Edited by thebriman

    I turned mine on a lathe for squareness on the cut.  7/8 x .058 tubing.  Hundreds of landings and a few sets of brake pads and no issues. .058 tubing gives an ID of .759 for a nice fit on a 3/4 axle. 

  17. EDMO

    Posted

    Ron,

           If you are going with the Cleveland Calipers, why not use Cleveland Master Cylinders with them?  I think they work at higher pressure than Matco MCs.

    I have either 2 or 4 of them.   PM me if you want them cheaper than buying new Matco.

    EDMO

  18. saskavid

    Posted

    Ron with regards to toe brakes it is more a matter of mechanical reallity that no mechanical system is 100% effecient.Basic leverage mathmatics doesn't take this into account.The original hydraulic brakes on the non magnum avids were lacking in leverage and flimsy to the point of where you could pour as much leverage into the top end as yu wanted it wasn't going to turn into line psi just get obsorbed within the system.

    http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/530-go-kart-to-matco-brakes/

    this is a thread Joey did when he installed my 2 piece pedals , mc4d masters, and swapped out his cable bottom end to hydraulic. 

    1 person likes this

  19. EDMO

    Posted · Edited by Ed In Missouri

    Ron,

          I don't think the wall thickness of these spacers should be too critical - probably something like 1/8"?

    I would NOT weld it to the axle.

          BTW:   I have the attachment plates with the calipers.

    EDMO

  21. RDavidson

    Posted

    Ok, now I have a question about what holds the wheel so that it is spaced properly for the disc brake?

    I looked at the original gear and it looks like a bushing was slipped over the axle and welded in place, is that correct?

    Does it need to be welded in place or can it just slide on and off?

    What wall thickness should the bushing be?

    Thanks,

    Ron

  22. RDavidson

    Posted

    Leni, the tires look great! Ok, sounds like I need to look into getting the MC4 masters. What are you guys using for different brake pedals? What makes the originals not so good? If I need to change them I'd like to do it now while I still haven't Fiberglassed the boot cowls or riveted the firewall in place.

    Also Leni, I went big and bought a used O-360 for it, so I'm sure it will swing the larger prop. What brand prop makes the 81 or 82" you are talking about? I have a 78" ground adjustable Whirlwind prop that I use on another plane and I love it. I can only imagine wat another couple of prop inches will do! Probably leave the prop still and spin the airplane instead!

    Mike, I'm running 1/4" too. Is it brake pedal leverage that the original pedals are lacking?

    Randy, where did you mount your remote Resevoir? Thanks again for your gear leg dimensions! I am loving how the gear looks...minus my current wimpy tires!

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