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  1. Yamma-Fox


    So I am told my tanks will leak if I run ethanol fuel in the wing tanks, but would it be OK to add Sea Foam?

    I'd like to run a high dose through during test running of the Yamaha... to clean the entire system out good, top cyl, valves, ect.

    Opinions ?

  2. 1avidflyer


    I've never done a Kitfox, but the Avid is almost the same.  Here are some pics of rib tails I built to Avids.  With the repair parts in the pictures, you remove everything of the rib behind the spar, and part of the cap strip ahead of the spar.  Glue in the new part, and that fixes it.  Another method I used on my Avid MK IV is shown in this bunch of posts.  Maybe this will answer some of your questions, or produce more of them..... :-)  JImChuk

    PS  it seems I've answered this same question earlier in the week.  Did your read my reply?  

    www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/3373-broken-rib-tail-repair/
     

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  3. dholly


    To add to the above... just keep in mind that there are continuous operations at the UL field all day and into each evening for the entire week. UL field arrivals and departure time slots are limited, typically first thing in the a.m. and again early evening. Those time slots can be superceeded at anytime by show schedule changes, airport closure due to incidents etc. There is a UL field flight ops telephone # in the NOTAM you can check in with regarding field status for your arrival.

    2 people like this
  4. FredStork


    I never liked the original system here you have to bend the cowling when closing it. My solution was to cement a metal pin and a corresponding metal tube on the 2 halves of the cowling, one set on each side obviously...

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    It works great and provide a very good positioning when closing the cowling. As long as I stay subsonic ther is no tendency for the cowl to "gap"

     

    6 people like this
  5. Turbo


    The pictured tool greatly facilitated the installation of new bungees on my Avid.  The tool is a wooden gantry that stands on top of the seat tube, is stabilized above by a strap to a structural tube, and supports a block and tackle with 6:1 purchase.  Additionally, a small fairlead and clamcleat are used to quickly secure the line.  For line I used green paracord.  I used parts from my collections of yahtie and windsurf stuff.  In order to grip and stretch the bungee, I used a small camcleat mounted on a bent piece of 1/8" aluminum.   In mounting the bungees I was able to pull each wrap tight with the block & tackle setup.  Vicegrip pliers were particularly useful for clamping already-tensioned bungee cord to the landing gear on the bottom.  They held well and were easy to put on and take off.  For each wrap I tried to stretch the bungee as much as I could, so that in the final wrap the end loop would start off already through the aperture in the bottom of the airplane.  I then simply fed a 12-15" piece of paracord thru the eye of the bungee, tied a simple loop knot in the other end, and attached it to the block.  After lifting with the block & tackle, and maneuvering it onto the hook with a screwdriver, I simply untied the loop and pulled the paracord piece out of the eye.  Done!  Solo! (Jimmie Durante would wag his substantial nose and say "hotcha!".)

    Some other comments are in order.  Out of curiosity I stretch-tested a plain hardware-store bungee (Installed on the plane by a previous owner) for comparison with the Mil-spec Type-1 3/8" bungee cord sold by Aircraft Spruce & Specialty.  I was gobsmacked at the difference!  The Mil Type-1 bungee is about 3X stiffer, and will go up beyond 120 lbs per strand, whereas the hardware store stuff more-or-less stopped stretching around 35 lbs.  The Mil Type-1 stuff will stretch to double its 0-tension length.  Whatever you do, DON'T USE THE HARDWARE-STORE STUFF!.  My calculations indicate that 7 wraps of the Mil Type-1 bungees can handle a 3-G landing at my TOGW of 916lbs, but the outward gear deflection is almost 19 degrees from the 0-G gear position,  and the average bungee cord stretch is more like 5 inches!  This analysis even modeled the inward roll of the contact patch relative to the wheel as the gear splays out.  I was unable to stretch either bungee to failure, but would love to know how much tension they can take!  Online one can find many purveyors of different kinds of bungee.  If you insist on wandering off of the righteous path, I heartily recommend stretch testing, followed by analysis.  Avid's recommendation for the safety cables is to allow 3".bungee deflection.  I'd go to 5", or maybe leave them off like Joey did, just adding a bungee inspection to my pre-flight inspection list.  If you, like I, bought your bird used, I would definitely take a careful look at the LG bungees.  Are they single-flecked (hardware-store) or double-flecked (type-1)?  Is there adequate deflection capability in the safety cables?  (My airplane was a double whammy on these questions, and I needed to have my seat tube repaired after a hard landing.)

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    2 people like this
  6. Av8r3400


    So to verify:

    1) It will be OK to use the UL approach with our Avids? 

    2) and also camp there?

    3) and not be looked down upon for landing and parking where we were not supposed to?

    I'm not exactly sure how to interpret the official guidance document wrt my Avid.

    Thanks! :-)

    Chris

    First and foremost:  Get a copy of the NOTAM.  Link.   Read the entire thing, but especially understand page 19.

    1). Yes your Avid is perfectly welcome at the Ultralight Field.

    2). Yes you are perfectly welcome to camp under your wing in the Ultralight area.

    3). You are supposed to be there.

    What is "the official guidance document"?

     

    This video shows the pattern to land to the Northwest:  Link

     

     

     

     

  7. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    Vance,

    Fred Stork has the best fix/set up for this part of the cowling-it’s MUCH better than stock set up and would solve this problem. It simple and durable. Get in touch with him, you’ll be glad you did! All the Best, Bryce

    Thanks Bryce!

    1 person likes this
  8. BryceKat


    Vance,

    Fred Stork has the best fix/set up for this part of the cowling-it’s MUCH better than stock set up and would solve this problem. It simple and durable. Get in touch with him, you’ll be glad you did! All the Best, Bryce

    1 person likes this
  9. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    I had a little mishap while moving all my Avid stuff to the Airport. My top cowling got smashed. I took it out to a guy and he reglassed one edge and fixed a spot on the bottom cowl. One of the fasteners up front had been drilled to close to the edge and split out so I had him build up that area. When I went to pick it up I could see that when he reshaped it he took to much off. Now I’m back to where I was before. I hate the body work stuff. I’m just not good at it. 

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  10. saskavid


    So can you hold full power on a runnup or will the plane creep away?do they feel spongy beyond typical flexing in the rudder bars and pedals themselves? If you have air trapped somewhere they won't work for nothing no matter what you do. And it can be dam tough to get rid of it sometimes. 

    Do you have vg's on the tail as well? Horizontal  stabilizer underside just in front of the hinge point?

  11. 1avidflyer


    On the Avid, pulling in just a bit of flaps will cause the nose to go down.  Actually, the more flaps you pull in, the more the nose wants to go down.  I'm sure it's the same on the Kitfox 4.  I trim my Avid that way all the time.  I've also noticed that with several Avids, pulling just a bit of flap made the plane fly better, more stable.  Not sure why.   As far as the size 14 shoes, I see that Trent Palmer is flying barefoot in his latest video.  :-)  JImChuk