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  1. akflyer


    great idea, I like it!  Nice handles too!  I love the forum to see how others have come up with elegant and functional solutions to the various problems. 

    :BC:

     

    1 person likes this
  2. TJay


    Ok Boys I made some good progress this weekend. Got the glass cut and installed, Gas struts mounted, and door latch system figured out. I have struggled along time on the doors because I wanted to install vents but couldn't stand the thought of cutting a snap vent in a nice finished door. Think I come up with a great solution. I incorporated the vent into the latch, the latch has two positions the farthest one in locks the door fully sealed and the other one lets the door hang open about a 1/2 inch for some air. Hope it works.  Also built the latch that you need an Allen wrench to open from the outside, had to make a key for that one. Before anyone blows there top on seeing me put rivets into the air-frame take note that I have all them spots reinforced with little tabs that I welded in there earlier.  So far the fit and finish is exactly what I was hoping for. Lots of hard work building all these parts all coming together finally. Enjoy the pics.

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    1 person likes this
  3. akflyer


    Looks like you an I have the same panel.  That is pretty heavy with nothing in it.  I got a fiberglass panel for mine but have not made the swap yet.  I agree on pulling a lot of the instruments.  With the flight apps available on the phone and other light weight devices I want to strip mine down.  I bet I can pull 10# of useless crap off the panel.

     

    :BC:

     

  4. FredStork


    I have never seen the original aluminum tanks (that cracked...). The traditional fiberglass tanks are a structural part of the wing. I the aluminum tanks were conceived the same way the flex of the wing could/would crack them.

    But if the tanks are "free floating" within the wing there would be no stress an they would remain intact - but we would loose the structural function of the tank. With no tank installed in the wing there is a diagonal tube in place.

    The only real issue with the original fiberglass tanks is if they are not compatible with ethanol. So if a ethanol resistant resin is used I don't really see the issue with the traditional tanks. 

    The issue with having multiple connected tanks in the same wing isn't so much the fuel flow out as fuel in... unless the connection can manage the flow correctly. 

    Fred

     

    1 person likes this
  5. nlappos


    Beef up the sides of the fuse and seat truss.  computer numbers are always better than flight reports, pics of bent fuselages and pireps hahahahaha.

    :BC:

    No computers were harmed in the making of this movie. All hand calculated! Notice the cabane has a cross bar at the top to reinforce the fuselage from the side forces of the upper strut. In any case, these loads look a lot like the same from the original bungee system, frankly. The biggest problem is that we have to eventually hit the ground I think.

    1 person likes this
  6. 1avidflyer


    My own opinion, for what it's worth.  There was a good reason why Avid and Kitfox went away from aluminum tanks, and both tried them.  The wings do flex in flight, and the flexing causes cracks in the tanks that of course then leak.  If the tanks that were only 18" long cracked, what chance does a 6' long tank have?  Also, do you increase the odds of the tank's outlet unporting with the long tank?  If you were flying uncoordinated, will the fuel all end up at the outboard end of the tank?  What kind of baffeling do you plan?  Not trying to bash you, but these are some of the negative thoughts I had when I pondered your tank idea.  Glad you are advancing the Avid aircraft progress, would be nice to see you make a complete success out of all of this.  JImChuk

  7. TJay


    Would that be 6 individual tanks? If so thats alot of extra fittings inside the wings to slowly drip.  I do like the idea of it being completely hidden under the fabric. I would also think about making it fit in either the under camber wing and  the riblett airfoil because eventually your gonna have to switch these planes to the more desirable airfoil. :)

  8. neflyer15


    All,

    I wanted to get some opinions on the new tank design for the Mark IV. I have some thick skin but I want to try and keep this conversation as civil as possible :) Keep in mind I will still be able to provide the original fiberglass tanks Avid used to make.

     From the research on this site and other forums, firsthand opinions from customers, and reviewing the competition, I have developed a new design that aims to accomplish the following:

    -Maintain the same fluid volume as old tanks

    -Allows for use of fuel with up to 10% ethanol without causing premature damage or failure

    -Does not cause significant weight increase

    -Does not cause significant price increase

    -Sits inside ribs so that tank profile cannot be seen after covering

     

    Having said all of this, I decided to go with an aluminum tank that slides inside the first 6 ribs closest to the fuselage.I have attached a picture below that shows the concept - the tank in the picture was a fiberglass mock-up. This is by no means a final design and I would appreciate your thoughts and input as we continue to make improvements to the design.

     

    Tailwinds,

    Mark

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  9. 1avidflyer


    There are some kits that you can build, you use a cell phone that you call that lights up when it's ringing, and that signals the unit to turn on the switch.  There are much more expensive ones that you can buy though.  Don't have any links right now though.  JImChuk

  10. Bandit


    Is there a remote outlet control I could put in my hanger outlet and turn it on with my phone to preheat my Champ while driving to the airport? 

  11. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    I’m sorry it took so long to get back to you. Winter in Idaho. I just don’t get out to the storage often. 

    So I do have a set but it appears someone cut them down. I took a picture. You might be able to extend them somehow and cover it with the pad. I threw one in my plane and I don’t like the shorter length. Looks to be a couple inches shorter compared to the other photos. 

    Let me know. 

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  12. zadwit


    I am selling my 582 gray head. IT was running and made a pop and quit. THe rotary valve does not turn. I sent the engine off and had it torn down with the idea of overhauling it but 

    changed my mind and bought a new blue head 582 instead for $7000!!!!! I guess I should have thought it over before I made the buy.

    Anyway the 582 by s.n was built in 1990 and while I dont know the total time I think it is about 700 hours since that is what is on the plane. IT was overhauled by Rotax RIck not long ago and for whatever reason some silicon got into the rear bearing and the seal came apart and pieces of it got int he brass gear and the rotary valve quit turning... It is not trashed but Id either send the crank out and have new bearing and seals installed or buy a new crank... haven't priced any of this ...the carbs and starter and oil injection all worked fine.

    I kept the gearbox and had a clutch installed so it dont have a gearbox but I saw a "B" model gear box for $500 on ebay the other day...I actually think I get better performance from the B box with 2.58 to 1 ratio than the 3to 1 ratio. I experimented with both...My ridge runner was a good 10 mph faster with a B box than a C, I tried both and 2 and 3 blade props....

    IT would make a good engine for someone who can do their own work....I was quoted 2500-3000 to overhaul it...but got impatient and bought a new "gold plated" 582, at least my wallet thinks its gold plated...still makes the same power....Anyway the engine is in Davenport, Wa. 40 miles west of SPokane.

    Anyway exfaa@outlook.com 

    or call me or text me at 907-378-9632 if interested....

    I was going to overhaul it or send it to Rick and trade in on a 670 but I realized I have 100 yrs worth of projects......so had to draw the line someplace.....Mark

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  13. zadwit


    I need to cover some of the holes in the dash. I ripped out a lot of useless instruments.....Ill have airspeed and G-5 Garmin, Aera660 GPS and the a few engine instruments, EGT, blue water temp you can see now, starts at 100(f) , a small fuel pressure gauge and thats it. Dont need all the other crap and weight. ROC and ALt are going as well. WIll keep the AS as last resort backup. THe switch between the red light and the blue water temp gauge is for my electric fuel pump, mainly to fill all the lines before start so I dont have to crank and crank...

  14. zadwit


    I have installed two of these header tanks that Murle Williams builds. They have a float switch in them so the moment the level drops in the header tank, it turns a red light on mounted in the instrument panel. THis tells you that you have 1.9 gallons of fuel left so better think about finding a place to set down. This could be because of restriction in the fuel system or just plain ran out of fuel....Ill try to post some photos. THere are three fitting on the top of the tank, left tank, center is for vent to the left tank, and right tank fuel inlet.

    The float switch is on the top left corner of the tank and turns a red LED on mounted on the panel.

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  15. sky4play


    Thin covering of snow...but just enough.. to get in a couple of flights'

    No lake or out landings because of lack of snow... Got some more footage

    on the Gopro...Something I can edit into something  else...hopefully

    John O

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    4 people like this
  16. marksires


    I don't know what shipping would be to Alaska, but I would recommend the company I bought it from - Durobeam.  Everything has fit the way it is supposed to.  Frame is straight and level, didn't need to shim, or yank it around with a come along to get it that way either.  Kudos to my concrete guy also - he put the anchor bolts in perfectly, and the slab is level.  No cracks on the slab or the apron, even with a 30,000 lb forklift running all over both of them.

    Mark

     

    1 person likes this
  17. akflyer


    Well I wish we would be getting the kind of snow we used to.. then I would be worried about it but for the last 10 yrs or so a flat roof would have held up just fine.  Snow does not have much of a chance to load up where I am buying at as its right on the edge of a nice river valley and the winds tend to blow the roofs clean :lol:

     

    :BC:

     

  18. akflyer


    the "moose hunter stall" is an accelerated stall aggravated by being uncoordinated.  This is the perfect control position for a spin, and that's what happens in most of the cases, stall spin, smoldering pile of plane and pilot parts.  My initial instructor knew what I would be doing the second he was out of the plane so he hammered the ever loving crap out of me on them.  There are a lot of basic maneuvers that we learn early on in flight training that once we take the check ride are rarely practiced.  I like to stay sharp plus have a little fun too.  When was the last time you were just out burning sky and you practiced dutch rolls, or turns about a point (really being proficient at these keeps you from being the moose stall statistic).  When was the last time you truly practiced slow flight.  I mean hanging on the prop ragged edge of a stall and drive it around the sky for awhile to stay in tune with your plane kind of flying.  Do you play around at the edge of the envelope to see just how much rudder you can get away with and not snap :dunno:  All of this is very good stuff to stay sharp with if your going to be playing around low and slow and actually be able to get you plane in and out SHORT and exactly where you want it, SAFELY.

    :BC:

     

    1 person likes this
  19. marksires


    Could you use 550 cord or something like that to put up and roll it out on then just leave it in place?

    Hoping this summer I will be building one as well on my own lil slice of heaven if all goes as planned!

    :BC:

     

    That's a good idea.  Even if I don't leave it up there, it is a lot less likely to get stuck with a screw.  Doesn't need a lot of strength, just need to be able to pull it tight so it rolls easy.

    Hopefully you have more time available, and more help than I do.  With 4 or 5 guys working full time, this building could probably be done in a month.  Many more than that, and they'd just be in each others way.

    The roof would be more interesting, I bet you need a steeper roof than 1/12 up there in Snow country!

    Mark

  20. akflyer


    I am a rebel.. I cant tell you when I had my last medical so I am going in Tuesday to get the 3rd class, after that I plan on going basicmed. 

    :BC:

     

    1 person likes this