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in Avid Model IV
Posted Saturday at 9:08 PM
The good side.
Posted Saturday at 9:04 PM
Fred Stork has the best fix/set up for this part of the cowling-it’s MUCH better than stock set up and would solve this problem. It simple and durable. Get in touch with him, you’ll be glad you did! All the Best, Bryce
Posted Saturday at 8:35 PM
I had a little mishap while moving all my Avid stuff to the Airport. My top cowling got smashed. I took it out to a guy and he reglassed one edge and fixed a spot on the bottom cowl. One of the fasteners up front had been drilled to close to the edge and split out so I had him build up that area. When I went to pick it up I could see that when he reshaped it he took to much off. Now I’m back to where I was before. I hate the body work stuff. I’m just not good at it.
in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar
Posted Saturday at 5:48 PM
So can you hold full power on a runnup or will the plane creep away?do they feel spongy beyond typical flexing in the rudder bars and pedals themselves? If you have air trapped somewhere they won't work for nothing no matter what you do. And it can be dam tough to get rid of it sometimes.
Do you have vg's on the tail as well? Horizontal stabilizer underside just in front of the hinge point?
Posted 16 June
Edited 16 June by 1avidflyer
On the Avid, pulling in just a bit of flaps will cause the nose to go down. Actually, the more flaps you pull in, the more the nose wants to go down. I'm sure it's the same on the Kitfox 4. I trim my Avid that way all the time. I've also noticed that with several Avids, pulling just a bit of flap made the plane fly better, more stable. Not sure why. As far as the size 14 shoes, I see that Trent Palmer is flying barefoot in his latest video. :-) JImChuk
Posted 16 June
My experience the wd taper gives you more power.
in Close Call's and dumb stunts
Good Idea but luckily my cowl is pretty much right there and they don't have space to fall completely off. I will look at doing something to hold them though.
All our best to you Ed, keep hanging in there. We're praying for you.
Also I keep getting my right toe caught under the throttle lever above the right rudder pedal.. I have sz 14 feet... maybe I need to cut off my toes...
Ive seen some people put flat metal on the rudder pedal that still allows the brake to be applied... not sure what to do...I have to use my toes to work the rudders......kinda hard....
On my KF4 with 503 Rotax , I installed matco 6" wheels and brakes and 8:00-6 tires... THe brakes barely worked. I added another set of calipers to each wheel so now I have two brake calipers on each wheel and the brakes are better. I can hold the left brake and pivot around but i HAVE TO push prett y hard on the pedal....I tried conditioining the brake pads and that helped a little...
The second issue is I flew the plane the other day and at 6000 rpm, 2 blade WD prop = about 80.
I installed vgs on the wing and a new WD taper blade prop, same 72" diameter... now I cruise 85 at 6000 rpm but the nose wants to rise and the flap handle is all the way down....
IS it ok to adjust the flap handle to go lower to be able to trim the plane? Are the VGs makeing the wing create more lift or is it just the extra 5mph speed????its got me stumped.
IT will stall about 35 flaps up and I saw speeds as low at 30 flaps down but that was about it... the air was so rough again it was hard to get accurate speeds but they do seem to help.
I have grove gear and it sits too low....I can tell because when the plane comes off the ground it jumps up about 30 feet in the air like a rocket... I just cant get any more angle.... should have orderd 2" longer gear legs. Or I can insall bigger tires I guess....
Ive seen to retenstion systems... one is a long spring that goes from the front of the engine to the back and holds the carbs to the engine
the second I have seen and the one I use is .032 swisted safety wire... I secure it to the fan cover screw on the front or wherever you can, swist the wire and run it thru that hole on the carb body outside of the area of the slide, then thru the second one and then secure it tothe back part of the engine.....that way at least teh carbs cant fall off....
The photo below shows spring s holding it all in the engine....
Posted 15 June
Gleim has a database of instructors he might check out. Bryce
Latest Update....Left wing finished with new fiberglass tank!trying out the fuel tank....
Latest Update....Left wing finished with new fiberglass tank!
trying out the fuel tank....
The first pic is the right wing, Getting started on it!
So to verify:
1) It will be OK to use the UL approach with our Avids?
2) and also camp there?
3) and not be looked down upon for landing and parking where we were not supposed to?
I'm not exactly sure how to interpret the official guidance document wrt my Avid.
Vance - are you definitely arriving on the 24th with your buddy?
Dholly, we are flying commercial and should be to the Airshow by 4:00 pm on the 24th.
Scotch-Weld metal primer #3901. Talk to R.S. Hughes. WWW.rshughes.com.
A guy in a nearby town bought an Avid, and called asking where he could get instruction in it. I know I have ran across a list of CFIs somewhere, but can't find anything now. Anyone know of the list I'm talking about. I looked on FAA and EAA sites, but didn't find what I was looking for. JImChuk
Avid assembly manual says Dow Corning W-9. Any substitutes?
Posted 14 June
What I remember from flight training was 60deg angle of bank expect the stall speed to increase 40 percent over what it was straight forward stall. At 75 deg. it was 100 percent increase in stall speed. 45 deg. is 18%
Yes, if the bank is fully trimmed with back stick so it develops the load factor. And no if you do not trim into a zero altitude loss turn.
The better way to say it is that at 2 G's the stall speed increases by 40%. 1.4 x 1.4 = 1.96, so that the V squared portion of the lift equation is satisfied - same wing, twice the lift needs 1.4 times the airspeed.
But if you just bank, and allow altitude loss, no problem and no stall speed increase.
My assembly manual says to prime with Dow Corning W-9 before gluing ribs to aluminum spars. Can't find it. What is everybody using?
in For Sale and wanted, you got it, I want it
Congrats! Great Upgrade......just another project now! Cheers Randy
Well, and there will be a complete III kit up for sale soon.
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