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  1. wypaul


    When I was building the F7a I found some weld nuts to make the pushrods and then used some 10-32 long set screws to make those pushrods. I tried to find where I bought the weld nuts but I just don't recall. I do have a few of the long grade 8 set screws that I can send you if you find the weld nuts.   My guess is that the original tube that you have had cap screws welded onto the end of the tube before it was chromed. That wil make them prone to break and don't recommend that method.  Also there is a modified setup with better geometry that should be much better on the Yahoo Avid flier site in the files section there is a drawing and somewhere there is a more complete set of instructions for this mod but I am not sure where but someone on this site my have them. 

  2. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    The inspection that requires a new registration, builders log, W&B, three views of the airplane, and application for airworthiness and a program letter. :)

    I may have to do what you suggested EDMO and write in the measurements. Attached is a photo of what I have.

    :BC:

    Avid Flyer refurb 11 another paint option.jpg

    1 person likes this
  3. TJay


    I you were to build it you should move. point C up a bit. Gives guys the option to run skis that attach there.

    Read the MS Word doc that Bob wrote up and I linked to here.  Moving point C is one of the critical errors.

    That was interesting thanks for posting it.

    1 person likes this
  4. C5Engineer


    Both my Avid’s have Ray Allen Systems. One came with the kit and the other my Dad had from a different project. I’m not sure of the specs. Have you tried calling them? I’m sure they could tell you what model they sell to Kitfox and Avid. 

    1 person likes this
  5. FoxDB


    I am wondering what experience 670 drivers have had with this combination?

    I recently put a 670 in my KF mod 1. I have been told it is not enough prop for this engine. I have only flown it once but had an exhaust concern. Have not tried it yet since having a new exhaust built (618 style).

  6. Avid Randy


    Interested in any information on electric trim for the Mark IV. 

    Curious what electric trims any of you may have used and what length of travel works best with the Mark IV style trim tab?

    I would looking at ordering a Ray Allen but was not really sure what travel would work best.

    Randy

  7. akflyer


    be careful where looking at these and make sure the network is supported in your area.  A lot of the really cheap ones are NOS that use a 2g network and most cell companies no longer support!  For around 100.00 you can get a newer one that uses 4G or LTE networks. 

     

    :BC:

     

    1 person likes this
  8. Buckchop


    Well still no Oratex 6000 for the PA12,  (Paid for it on Sept 15 2017) so ill work on the KitFox 0038, (Which dont hurt my feelings)  Better Aircraft Fabric in anchorage said once my order shows up they goimg to send a represenitive from anchorage up to my place in ester to show me the ropes on the install and to put together a show-and-tell on the install for anyone eles interested in the product. So if ur interested and in or around fairbanks all r welcome. 

    image.jpg

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    1 person likes this
  9. nlappos


    akflyer knows his stuff!

    https://www.amazon.com/KiaoTime-GSM-AUTO-DC-US4G-Output-Control-Contact/dp/B01N5LGJLA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1519092278&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GSM+4G+remote+switch

    First user comment on the page: "Using it to turn on a heater in airplane hangar. Turns on and off immediately on phone call, and sends a confirming message within a few seconds that I have programmed to tell me that the heater has been turned on, or off. I was also able to program it so it will only react to phone numbers I have pre-authorized. I had to connect it to a relay that will switch the current required for the heater."

     

    I swapped to a better listing, akflyer is right, must make sure the device is at least 3G, (the listed unit is 4G) because the cheaper 2G units are being dumped in the US for low prices, and the ATT cell network won't talk to them.

    1 person likes this
  10. Emory Bored


    IMO, 1.25" axles are the way to go.  You can mount real wheels and brakes and get away from the toys currently being put on these planes.  There are plenty of wheel options available instead of the "chicken teeth" Douglass wheels and their associated shit brakes. 

    Moving to 1.25" axles and their associated parts was the single best modification I made to my plane. 

    Spring gear with big soft tires being the other.....:)

  11. akflyer


    I you were to build it you should move. point C up a bit. Gives guys the option to run skis that attach there.

    Read the MS Word doc that Bob wrote up and I linked to here.  Moving point C is one of the critical errors.

  12. nlappos


    This is a great conversation! To add fuel to the fire, here is a sketch I found that supposedly matches the J3 gear, it is also the EAA Biplane cabane gear.

    Please note that the dimensions are quite close to the gear I am installing, any differences are due to the Avid's much wider side by side fuselage.Eaa_Biplane.thumb.jpg.594510c14890476e0e

     

  13. nlappos


    Marcus

    The angles I used are the actual ones, the upper rod is 58.5 degrees from the ground, and the lower one is 32.3. The sketch I drew is not to scale, it is for identification of the terms used. Here the dimensions and angles are correct, the drawing is just a cartoon, don't use it, just its numbers. The spring is correctly sized, the gear meets Part 23 requirements for a 8 feet per fecond drop, and the spring does not bottom on that drop, it can go to almost 4 g's before it bottoms.

     

    Fitt Gear.jpg

  14. Barry Cole


    Yes, the weight does NOT include the tail-wheel. My old spring and tail-wheel is 8.6 lbs. I will let you know the total weight after I get the right tail-wheel bolted on. I think it will be the same weight or a bit lighter.