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  1. SuberAvid


    It looked like the plane might have been on it's maiden flight.  I think they forgot to put the rest of the engine mount bolts in or something. A lot of other parts should have collapsed before that engine came off.

  2. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    I’m sure plenty people use longer probes but there is instructions on how to shim them out so the probe tip stays in the center of the pipe and plenty of articles related to proper probe placement in the cone of the flame. When I went to the leading aviation supply store to order probes they did not offer suggested lengths for specific applications. It took reading the Rotax install manual along with Rotax tuning articles from various sources to make the simple conclusion that it comes down to probe type, where it needs to be in the system and how far it needs to be from the skirt of the piston. I always buy direct if it saves me a few dollars and when I went to the Westach site it offered shorter (1/2 inch) probes that the other distributors didn’t. An email to them confirmed this probe would have the proper needed reading for my gauge and application. Plugs still reading good color as before and the gauge now shows a reading that matches what the plugs say.  I’m happy with my outcome. To each their own. 

    :BC:

  3. 1avidflyer


    I'm staying down in Gulf Shores for a while this winter, but I see Melbourne is quite a ways away.  As far as a new tail spring, the Avid MK IV uses a 1 1/2" wide tailspring that is necked down to 1 1/4" where it meets the tailwheel.  Some Maule tailwheels are set up for 1 1/4" wide springs, and some are 1 1/2".  Matco tailwheel springs can use either width.  You wouldn't have to neck the spring down to 1 1/4" if you have a tailwheel that will fit the 1 1/2" spring.  You can maybe find a spring shop to cut and bend you one locally, if you know the length and angel it needs to be bent at.  I've made up my own springs at times.  Not that hard to do if you have a press to cold bend the spring and a good drill press to drill the holes.  If you go with 2 or 3 leaves of springs, you will have to drill a second hole further back to go through the spring leaves and bottom plate in the plane the spring goes up against.  Originally, Avid only used one leaf spring, and the channel it sits in is deep enough to keep it from swinging sideways with only one bolt holding it on.  Not enough if you go with more leaves though, and that's why you will need the second bolt.  Maybe this picture will help if my words are hard to understand.  JImChuk

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  4. C5Engineer


    Wow that is quite the intro. Glad you were not hurt and the plane is being saved. Ditch the Maule Tailwheel and go with a Matco. Mark at Avid Aircraft has several options of double Tailwheel springs that you can upgrade to. You can also get parts from Stace Shrader of Rocky Mountain Aircraft in Idaho.

  5. 1avidflyer


    I think most people running Rotax 2 strokes use the longer EGT probes.  The 1/2" ones are usually used on the 912 or Jabiru as both have smaller diameter exhaust pipes.  Here is a link to Westach's EGT probe page.  JImChuk

    westach.com/products/ACCESSORIES/EGT%20THERMOCOUPLES/CLAMP%20ON%20TYPE%20THERMOCOUPLES/index.php
     

  6. mack55


    Hi Everyone,

    My name is Patrick McKiernan. Im a young engineer located in Melbourne Florida. I started flying an Avid MKIV (EA81) around the age of 9 years old. My father owned one and we eventually converted it from a taildragger to a float plane. Hurricane Ivan came along and beat the ol girl up pretty bad in the Pensacola FL area. When I was in high school I ended up restoring the airplane, and then my father and I built an RV-7. My dad still has that old Avid and not too long ago we stumbled upon another MK IV with a 582 tricycle gear and speedwing. The plane had sat for a long time but everything had been gone through. I put almost 20 hours on her in about 6 weeks trailering her to the local airport. She flew great but definitely sinks like a brick compared to the Heavy Hauler wing. Long story short I had taken a friend of mine to breakfast about an hour away. Plane was running great. On our return home we flew another hour and went out over the beach to do some sight seeing before we headed home. At this time we were flying at 1200' agl and the engine all of a sudden stopped producing power.... It finally quit and I was able to get it restarted with the fuel pump and primer but it still wouldn't produce any power. At this time we were at about 500' agl and decided that the road was our best option to avoid people on the beach. I shot a gap in the traffic but then the power lines started to fill the windshield. At this time we made an aggressive manuever to dive under the wires and try to flare before we hit. We had quite an aggressive sink rate, but we hit with a positive attitude. We blew the tires and bungees making it a very graceful landing and skidded for about 400'. No one was hurt, no cars were damaged, and the airplane was in pretty good shape besides the totaled gear (which I had been planning on converting to a taildragger anyway). Long story short there was enough damage to the bottom fabric that I decided to recover. Currently I have the whole fuselage completely stripped. Im about to weld some gussets in for the carry thru tubes on the rear spar and where the bungies wrap for the main gear. I will be sending the engine out to Rotax Rick in the next week or two for a diagnosis and overhaul. I am still looking for a tail leaf spring for a maule tailwheel and I will need a new Prop. Basically the old girl will be brand new when she is done. Wing fabric was in good shape but I may give her a single coat to match.

     

    Thanks for the add, Looking forward to seeing what everyone is up to.

     

    Patrick McKiernan

    1 person likes this
  7. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    Here are some thoughts and ideas. If you look around (believe it was the Avid building manual) there are directions on installing the longer probes. They call for 7 AN3 washers to be placed on the probe to shim it out. I would not worry about the probe cooling because  the washers are in direct contact with the pipe and should insulate the exposed portion of the probe. 

    I was going to shim mine out but I had cut the excess tail off of the clamp when I first installed them (big weight savings) . Once the washers were installed the clamp was to short. I got on the Westach web site and found that they make the same series of probe with a half inch long probe. I ordered new probes and they work perfect. 

    If I had to do this all again I would replace the Westach with a Micro 1000 from Aircraft Spruce. I have ran them before on other planes. They work great and self adjust for ambient temperature so the probes read correctly all the time. I was on a budget at the time and figured new probes for the Westach were cheaper than a whole new gauge. After it was all said and done I ended up spending money for two sets of probes and didn’t save much money over a new gauge.

     :lmao:

  8. zadwit


    I made a muffler heat shroud and NO ram air in, just cowling air, plenty of pressure there, and run the air outlet to a cabin heat box 2" aeroduct.

    I used fibreglass wood stove door seal on the ends. I might make another small shroud for the down tube is I need more preheat for the main muffler...

    I have the small water heater to install in cabin but if I can live without it, I prefer to do that....EncloDSCN2738.thumb.JPG.f2fd9cd2ecee06c478afeDSCN2738.thumb.JPG.f2fd9cd2ecee06c478afesed are photos... I dont know how but move this post to the heater file if there is one...Mark

     

    PS used aluminum foil tape on ends of shroud to keep warm air inside muffler shroud...hope it works... anyone ever wrap the outside of the muffler can to insulate it???

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  9. Turbo


    Looking into this same issue, and not because my EGTs looked particularly weird, I found the exact same situation Vance did.  It's just that I would like to trust my EGT readings vis-a-vis the database for what keeps these engines alive.  It seems the manufacturers of these probes thought they ought to be 1"long, which sho-nuff puts the probe tip over by the opposite wall of the Y-pipe.  It's like they just decided to market the same probe for the 582 that was being used for some other engine with a 2"diameter round exhaust pipe.  (O.K., Turbo, enough whinging!)  I'm still not sure how to proceed: Buy a new pre-drilled Y-pipe and threaded probes, or try to drill new holes in the proper location, and re-use the old ones.  With the latter approach, I need about 1/2" worth of spacers, putting much of the probe's length outside the Y-pipe in a much cooler environment.  Will this give artificially low readings due to heat conduction along the probe?  If only the necked-down probe tip is where the thermocouple is, with the relatively low thermal conductivity of steel, I am thinking not.  On the other hand, I am not too keen on my current EGT gauge setup.  Still pondering this one.

  10. NorthIdahoAvidflyer


    My cabin heat quest has started. After looking and measuring a few options I ordered the 6 hole unit off of Amazon. With my Discover points I got it for $45. It will take a month to get here because its coming from China. This unit is roughly 8" x 6" x 3.5".

    The only thing I need to find is a heater hose tee for 1" x 1" x 5/8. Right now I have found three options. It looks like I will be paying as much for the fitting as I will for the heater unit. Granted the heater unit is pretty cheap. 

    The 6 ports on the sides are 2". I would like to find some plastic nozzles that will fit over the outlets with adjustable fins so I can aim the airflow in different directions. I figure the rear two can aim up under the panel towards the window, the middle two can aim out the sides and the front two can aim towards the center of each seat. Now if I can just find a nozzle that will work. 

    The plan is to mount this with the hose inlet/outlet pointing back towards the firewall up as close to the underside of the panel as possible. I'm not sure what kind of brackets I will need to make but I'm planning to make the whole unit removable so I can install it late fall and remove it again mid spring. 

    If anyone has any suggestions or know where to find parts I would love the input.

    :BC:

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  11. alan von Stark


    The first two attempts looked ok but the sink rate on that last one was too high and with nothing to absorb the shock somethings gotta give. I think if the water is clear and still it  must be hard to to know when it's going to touch. The pilot put the power in too late what a shame :(