Yup,must get past the rings, as my drifter (inverted 503) with premix needs the plugs washed if left unused for more than two weeks.The oil injection on my 582 fox has an interesting quirk, the pump must leak but into one carb bowl.During inspections the rear float chamber has a red colour in it,and on startup will start well then run rough with a lot of smoke.My brothers 582 fox has exactly the same quirk.
Your cables sound very similar to kitfox ones.A push bike shop should be able to sell you some cable kits,the large ferrule may need some dressing down to fit.for the carb end use the sleeve off a stainless steel rivet,to clamp on ,use a brake hose flaring tool to clamp the rivet shank to the cable.This should be enough (I could hang my weight in them)but for safety I silver soldered the ends as well.If you make a pair on the bench when you fit them the adjusters won't be even(OCD I know!)as the bend radius makes a surprising difference. cheers paul
Many years ago I had a lubrication related failure in an air cooled non rotax engine.the shop that did the rebuild told me never use an oil specifically designed for liquid cooled engines in an air cooled engine. Oil technology has probably moved on,but just a word of caution. The 503 is generally a bullet proof engine(they don't make enough power to hurt themselves
On paper they appear great,I will be giving a sonex a real hard look when I am looking for a faster plane for those big flyaways my only concern is leg room(I have still to try one for size)there is a seat mod for more room.There is a 912 adapter mod which would be a great improvement over the aerovee Sonex, there appears to be two camps love em or hate em. There is an active forum last time I looked,they should be able to get you an intro to a local enthusiest.
This has been an interesting discussion! My Kf3 has the same heavy left wing if the flaps are fully retracted,add a little flap and the problem goes away.Maybe it's just a quirk of the early mixer geometry.I hadn't considered p factor.Anyone with a 912 Avid or Fox have the opposite wing heavy?
Powdercoating is one of the hardest coatings to remove.Unless you have access to a commercial blaster (200+cfm)you will have a real battle.The grit I use is sold here as speedblast garnet or D+ grade but the cost for the amount you us as a "blast to waste" will really make you hurt.Do you have assess to 30/60 grade crushed glass?This will be slower but the next best thing.Someone on this forum once suggested gasket stripper!Epoxy paint usually fries powdercoating so as an experiment soak a rag in epoxy thinner, wrap it around some powder coating possibly followed by some clingwrap to keep the solvent In, have fun,keep smiling.
A failed calliper seal would generally show as a weep. As for air entering,I would say possible but unlikely.The calliper "o"rings we use are nothing special and can be located at a hydraulic seal supplier.Automotive brakes usually use a square profile seal which is to retract the piston fractionally when the pressure is released,there is no advantage in this design for our use.The most common area for air to enter the system is the ring that seals the spear of the brake master cylinders.This seal rarely leaks,but will readily let air in on a sudden release of foot pressure on the pedals,A lot of dirt enters here off footware and surprisingly the passenger side on a dual setup is usually the culprit.I hope this long winded explanation is of some help. cheers Dusty