fusionfab

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Posts posted by fusionfab


  1. Subaru EA81 100hp aircraft engine. It comes with 
    Stratos Redrive, full complete cooling system, exhaust, carburetion, electronics and accessories. 3.5 hrs run time, practically new.

    Asking 2500 US, buyer covers shipping expense.

    Also available kitfox/avid motor mounts available.
    Engine is still on the plane so it can be seen/heard running.

    1 person likes this

  2. Selling a BMW 1150cc engine from a 2006 RT model. Fuel injected, Dual spark plug model.

    Spec say 95hp at 7250rpm. 

    Engine was removed from a running bike that suffered frame damage. 

    The engine had 8500(miles) on it originally, and has been rebuilt for aircraft with zero running time.

    New:
    Timing belt
    Oil pump system
    Chains
    Guides
    Tensioners
    Piston rings
    Crankshaft inspected by licensed technician 
    Every single bearing from the crank and out replaced
    All new engine bolts/hardware
    New Complete valve train and seats done by licensed technician
    Heads inspected 
    Cylinders inspected and resurfaced 
    All new gaskets and “BMW approved case sealant”.

    All new parts purchased from Max BMW Motorsports.
    Service inspections done by Seifker Performance.

    Comes with:
    Exhaust header
    ECM computer
    Oil cooler
    Throttle bodies with new injectors 
    Alternator 
    Starter
    Flywheel
    Fuel injector rail
    Partially separated harness for aviation purposes

    Damage:
    Small chips on left side cylinder fins (pictured).

    What it needs:
    Your own custom air box, wiring harness completed, and a PSRU

    $1,800 CDN. Willing to crate and ship at buyer’s expense.

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  3. I'm curious about the BMW.

    The BMW is a 2006 1150cc twin cylinder dual spark plus engine that I’ve completely rebuilt from the case out. It’s what I’ve spent most of my attention on replacing all rod and crank bearings. The crank itself checked, low mileage pistons but new rings and circlips, heads redone with valve job, cylinders checked and resurfaced. Every bolt is new, all new gaskets, oil pump guides chain. Just a lot of stuff lol. When I list it, it’ll be listed with exhaust header, ECU Computer, throttle bodies, alternator, starter, fuse box from bike, partial wiring harness that’s almost complete for aircraft

    I think I still have an extra set of heads, cylinders, pistons, and a crank with rods. I bought multiples of everything to have the machine shop identify the best of each to use. 
     

    these are old photos, it’s currently in a bin on a shelf behind a boat. 

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  4. The two stroke ones would weigh less then 100 lbs I'm guessing.  Other ones maybe need to go by truck freight.  If you have a friend who works where there is a fork lift, and they will load it on the truck, that's the cheapest way, or else bringing it and leaving it on the dock at their depot.  Tell me about the two stroke engines you have.  A friend of mine may be interested.  JImChuk

    thanks very much again JImChuk. Since you mentioned leaving at their depot I now recall my Corvair engine being shipped through a  freight service and the previous owner and his son loading it by hand to save some $$. Also the two strokes I don’t see being an issue using regular ground. It’s more for the others. 
     

    the two strokes aren’t much to write home about, they’re all pulled from sleds of unknown condition. The Kawasaki 440 is from a 90’s sled. The 377 “380” and the the 340 are from 80’s sleds. They’re complete with carbs exhaust and electrical. Just no redrives, and obviously need completely redone. My previous plan was to rebuild them converting them for aviation use for a future single seat UL. 


  5. Depends on what engines you are shipping I suppose.  I've built a crate to ship two stroke rotax engines.  For heavier engines you could put them on a pallet.  Last time I checked, minimum charge for truck freight was about $225.  If you try to go through Fedex truck freight they will quote you way more then that though.  I just got a quote for a crate 3' x3' x3' weighing 250 lbs from Mn to Or and the price was $275.  That was from a business with fork lift on each end.  That's the cheapest rate.  I shipped an engine from Mn to Wa. a few months ago, with UPS, and it cost 230, with 4500 worth of insurance on it.  Think they charged about 50 for the insurance.   Here is a crate I built a few years ago for a friend's engine.  JImChuk

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    thank you Jimchuk that’s a huge help. I wasn’t going to bother looking into UPS or fedex but I will now. Their websites say nothing more than 150lbs but I’m guessing that’s for regular post. I’ll look into their freight services. 
     

    The engines all vary in weight. 
    Rotax 340

    Rotax 377

    Kawasaki 440

    BMW RT1150 

    a Subaru EA81 (possibly x2) 

    Again thanks for your help.


  6. Hey everyone,

    I am going to be cleaning out my barn and have about 5-6 engines I am considering selling. 
    So I am just wondering what services you’re familiar with and what you had to do? 

    I've googled this a bit but was left a bit more confused than before.
     

    thanks 


  7. Blue grass is good, rye grass not so as it is a bunch grass that grows in clumps. I don’t think you will ever have a smooth runway with rye grass in the mix.

    yes that’s exactly what this turf guy said. Said it grows like sea urchins. But that it should spread out sideways after getting more nutrients in the soil. Just waiting for dryer weather


  8. Thank you very much guys. You’re all very helpful. 

    NorthernIdaho - I think that is something I will do. I do get a lot of noise in my signal, I thought maybe it was a connection that was weak but if that’ll help then I’ll be doing it. 

    Nlappos - thank you for the link. I just ordered a 10’ length. I will need to modify it because the antenna end is just a post. It originally had the Center wire on a ring terminal and the shielding wire on a larger ring terminal. So I’ll have to make that end up unless one of those transformers with the split wire will work? 

    Then ive got to figure out what connector it is exactly that fits into the radio. 


  9. Looking for input on which connector to get for my radio antenna cable. It’s a shielded cable but wasn’t sure if regular coax connectors would work or something that Aircraftspruce shows? Connector will be inline and not on an end.

    I’d been meaning to get a connector for the cable because it made removing the turtle deck difficult. Well today it broke so no more procrastinating.

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  10. I would start by having your soil tested. Apply lime and fertilizer according to your test results.  I’ve had good luck using an organic fertilizer on troubled yards. 

    UPDATE, Kahle76 and Av8r3400 were right. 

    An old ground school classmate has owned a huge sod farm for years and years and is a guru with this stuff. He was kind enough to drive an hour out to my place to take a look. 

    As soon as he walked into the runway he said my grass is too long, which I knew, I just haven’t cut it since last fall. But more importantly that my current grass is starving for nutrients. 

    Told me to take soil samples from different spots, and how to take them. Get them tested and have the fertilizer place mix up what I need. 

    Aerarate everything, then fertilize. After a couple rains and dries up just enough to get roller on to roll it. 

    He said to keep using a spike drum on and keep cut short so it starts growing out rather than up. 

    Said overseeding will just waste time and money and to hold off on top dressing. 

    I appreciate everyone’s help and will update this post with a video later on this summer hopefully with an improved runway. 

    Thanks guys

    1 person likes this

  11. Hey everyone,

    thanks for all the help. I didn’t think I was going to get this much good advice. 

    Between my dad and I we have all the machinery. Tractors, land levellers, rototillers, rollers etc. I spoke to someone today who is a large commercial sod farmer in my area and also a fellow pilot. 

    He described helping out a handful of grass strip owners and like everyone mentioned the clay with freeze thaw flashes really messes it up. 

    What he feels is the biggest contributing factor to what’s caused the bumpiness is the seed mix I used. He said it grows alright in clay but grows in clusters and compared each cluster to “see urchins”. Which seems spot on. 

    Anyways he’s planning on stopping by to take a look. But until then he’s suggest I use my box scraper with shoes and skim screened top soil over and then over seeding with another type he mentioned. 

    I will keep everyone posted and again, as usual, everyone was a great help. 

    If by bumpy, you mean lots of small depressions where maybe the sod isn't as thick, maybe you should add some more black dirt and pull a drag up and down it so you are just filling those low spots.  Would the field be smooth if the grass had all grown in even?  The other way it could get bumpy is if you had moved quite a bit of dirt in some places, and not so much in others.  In time the ground will settle, and the thicker filled areas will settle more and will go down further then the lesser filled areas.  That will lead to more ups and downs.  I've had to deal with both situations on my strip.  If its more of the latter, then add more black dirt and use a drag that will knock off the humps, and fill in the low spots at the same time.  I have a roller that I pull up and down the strip every once and a while, but if the ground is hard, it won't do a whole lot.   I hated to start tearing up the strip also, but I was tired of the bumps as well.  Here is what I used.  The drag is made from an old truck frame, and is 26' long from hitch to wheels.  I pulled it with my tractor and raised it with the hydraulic hitch for height adjustment.  The roller is an old 5' high water tank filled with sand.  Not finding a picture of the roller just now, but I've thought about making another one with a 2' or 2.5' diameter X 8' long sonotube filled with concrete.  It would need some rebar in it as well, and I would use car or truck spindles on the ends to attach the hitch to the roller.  JImChuk

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    thanks very much. I have a 10’ land leveler. Not the prettiest but it works well. 


  12. Rent a large, vibratory roller and smooth it out.

    I’ve had a company come in a couple times to use their big roller. Not sure if it was a vibrating one but it was one out of their fleet they suggested they use. I didn’t help much. Maybe a little but nothing too noticeable. 


  13. Personally I would go the route of big fat tires with low PSI.

    Might not be the idea that you're looking for here, but if you take it far enough you could (impractically) operate off a tilled field.

     

    P.S.  I'm jealous of your private Airfield!

    I tried lowering the psi a bit in my stock tires but just slowed me down and I run out of runway quickly lol. 


  14. Hey everyone.

    you can skip right to the video here.

    https://youtu.be/yzQIEtw1Imk

    sorry for the wind noise in the video.

    So in 2015 I made my grass strip. Spending almost a week plowing it, rototilling it, and smoothing out to perfection. Planted about $1000 worth of seed. Kentucky blue grass and rye mix. As instructed by the farmer I rent my land to. Soil is Brookstyn clay or blue clay. 

    Grass came up quick and green. But, grew in clusters leaving bare spots. Overseeded in fall of 2015 and both spring and fall of 2016, 2017, 2018. Have rolled it many times, Aerated etc.

    Its bumpy and I’m tired of it, i am trying to avoid redoing it. Hoping you guys can help. 


  15. Hey everyone 

    I am looking for a Rotax C gearbox preferably a 1:3 or 1:3.47 ratio. If it has a clutch great, if not I am still interested. 

    Just wanted to check to see if anyone had a used one to sell before I purchase a new one. 

    Thanks


  16. Regular hardware store bungee cord is not advised as it is simply too flexible. Bungee's ie. shock cords comes in all different patches, sizes, flex, you name it and sourcing it consistently is at time a bit of a task. I fully agree with using Aircraft Spruce as a trusted supplier or you can sweet talk the good folks at Kitfox and order a set for your Kitfox4-1200  ;-) or 5 project. Just to show you that this is not an uncommon issue here is a somewhat dated PDF. I'm sure Avid in its days went through similar problems. And these problems still exist today but as "Red Green" would say, ..remember, we're all in this together! 

    http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/images/serviceletters/SL-20.pdf

     

    yeah the bungees I installed were from aircraftspruxe and labeled as suspension bungee. But I think it's just too light for my weight so I went to 1/2" yesterday and tested on the runway this morning....MUCH BETTER. 

     

    1 person likes this

  17. Mine had widened when pushing forward into the barn....but very very slightly. But the gear wouldn't return snug up against the belly. 

    I just got back from my flying club though, there was someone there who had a small roll of 1/2" shockcord leftover from his bungee setup. He was even nice enough to have them cut and ends made for me when I got there. Thanks Ernie. 

    Hoping to get the bungees changed out now but damn this shockcord is a heck of a lot harder to stretch than the black 3/8 bungee. 

    Thanks for all your help everyone it is very much appreciated. 


  18. On our Avid plus aircraft, with Subaru engines, the length of the bungee was around 104". Eight wraps times the distance around the truss and gear leg.  The last couple of wraps were tough to get on , but with two people doing the install it was possible. I seem to remember that the gear was supposed to be snug up against the bottom of the fuselage until gross weight was reached. Another thing we did was to move the safety cables out to the inside of the cluster rather than where they are normally wrapped around the gear leg. There have been instances where the portion of the leg that has the bungee wrapped around it, broke off if you had a really rough landing.  Just to be on the safe side we also slipped a piece of 4130 inside the gear leg about 12" to reinforce the leg at the cluster outboard of where  the bungee wraps. This is on the wide Avid gear. 

    Jack 

    ok thank you Jack, was that 1/2" bungee? 


  19. Are you really using shock cord?  Not the bungee stuff you can find in some hardware stores.  This is the stuff you should be using.  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/shockcord.php   JImChuk

    hey Jim

    looking at my reciepts I had purchased 23' of the 10mm bungee cord from AS. Here's the link http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/bungee10mm.php?clickkey=8478

    should I have purchased the shock cord? Also now I'm trying to remember why I bought so much. I'll dig up the old cords and see what their length was because I think I just duplicated them. 

    UPDATE- measured the old ones and they're 124 inches tip to tip and counting the wear/paint impressions on them there 8 total wraps starting from connection to connection. This cord is also 1/2" and I think I was able to get much more out of the 3/8 and did 10 wraps. Here's pics of the old stuff and also my gear how it's sitting unloaded. Note, the safety cable slack is  pulled up into the cabin, they aren't even close to that little amount of allowable travel.

     

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  20. Just weight mine again today and is 67lbs. It also has a 10lb lead weight in the tail, the auxiliary tank (15lbs full) moved to directly under the baggage compartment. Which added 3 lbs to the tail weight so yours will probably be like JimChuks at 53ish lbs