tx_swordguy

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About tx_swordguy

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  • Location Gainesville TX

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tx_swordguy's Activity

  1. tx_swordguy added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    sloshing-again
    Ok I have decided to try the caswell stuff on a 15 gallon FG tank in the wing of my avid. My questions, I figure there are baffles in the tank is there any special way to get the epoxy around the baffles to the end of the tank? I bought a qt which is supposed to do up to 20 gallons should I get more to make sure there is enough being moved around? It has been in the 50-60 degree range will that be a problem in setting up? I do have a kerosene heater that I could aim at the wing as I turn it . What about doing two full coats? The leak was showing up at the pivot pin area for the wing so I am thinking it is in the trailing edge area of the tank, 
    THanks guys would have been better if it happened during warmer weather I guess just wondering if it is doable now.
    • 3 replies
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  2. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic wing tank replacement   

    you guys are right about the $. I looked into Caswell $79 for a qt which is enough to do 20 gallon tank. I guess I can build a wing rotisery and give it a try. Any ideas about the acetone wash? finding different opinions. AV gas vs acetone prior to treatment. 
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  3. tx_swordguy added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    wing tank replacement
    Well it finally happened. I had my avid for just over a yr and now the right wing tank is leaking. I am thinking it would be better to go ahead and replace rather than slosh and hope for the best. My question is the tank is a 15ish gallon tank with the 1/4 turn metal cap with the goose neck vent on the top. The left tank is not leaking and for the time being I am not going to replace it. I am leaning toward the kitfox tanks at 450 a tank. Reason being is it will resemble the left side more than a poly replacement would. I am thinking I might sell the avid in the spring and don't want to pass a problem on to someone but I want it to look close to the original tank. The avid is a B model with upgraded heavy hauler wings. The spars etc have been beefed up to up the MTOW to 1150. The Kitfox site has tanks for the 1-3 but asked for a wing twist. my heavy hauler wings apear to be uncambered but I have no idea what twist I need to tell them. I am assuming that the 1-3 model tank would be what I need but they also have a model 4 tank. I was hoping to just remove the top fabric but with the kitfox replacement I think it will require top and bottom fabric to be stripped???? If you think poly tanks would be a better option I will listen, although I am hearing problems with the gas caps and vent tubes not holding up.  I don't know whether two different gas caps/tanks would keep me from selling it or not but that is a concern. Currently I have one (leaking 15 gallong) and one 7 gallon that has a storage compartment along side it that is not leaking. Resale will be a factor in my tank decision so help me out guys.
    Thanks Mark
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  4. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic VG's for AVID Flyer   

    Good to know I will start practicing that.
    Thanks Mark
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  5. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic VG's for AVID Flyer   

    Ok Ak, I re-read your post. Obviously you can't give advice on landing in a strip you have never seen and I understand that. My strip of land is 1093' with 20' power lines on the 1093' line and a barbed wire fence on the other.It is fairly open farm land with a big power line size tree on the NE end of runway and trees  about midfield to the south end on the East side of the runway (plays with the sink rate moving between the open area to the treed area when any easterly wind is there.) Essentially 800+ usable runway coming in from the north or taking off toward the north. I have practiced the slow flight you speak of but not sinking in a nose high attitude the way the STOL guys do it in OSH or Valdez. I come in rather flat with a little bit of power about 15' over the power lines shooting for 60 to account for any drop in wind gusts. As I come over the power lines I chop power and I kick hard right and drop the left wing. I flare and straighten at about 5-10' and add a burst of power to stop decent and cushion the sink. From power lines to touch down eats up 200-300 feet leaving me 700+ of very slight down hill to brake and stop. I can see coming in at 45 nose high would reduce my role out some but not sure I would be able to judge coming down over the power lines in that attitude to be able to get it down and stopped like that.  My thinking is that would be better suited for coming across a river bed clear of obsticles and holding a lot of power to get you to touch down on a stream bed. How do others land short coming in over obsticles? Always looking for new ways of doing things and I would definately go back to the airport and try in the open first.
    Mark
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  6. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic VG's for AVID Flyer   

    Thats good advice Ak. I trailered and practiced for months on the grass strip next tp the paved runway at the airport and measured out 1000' out of the 3000 available . I didn't even try my own strip until I was landing within that 1000' each and every time. My strip has trees down half of the east side so any kind of easterly wind will play a little with my sink rate when I drop below 20'. I have had times where I have a NE wind of 12 or so and come in as pretty as you please then out of nowhere you sink like a rock only 15' off the ground due to the lost wind. It is  great training and I get more comfortable each time. It took me a while to realize exactly where to plant my landings on 36 because there is a very slight dip over a 100' area that doesn't look like much but when you hit it at touch down and then hit the slight rise on the other side you get bounced enough to eat up alot of run way. Now I fly past the dip and can stop within 400' all day every day pretty much. The hairier side is 18 because I have to slip over power lines. The more experience you gain from every circumstance the better pilot you will become. You can read all day long but until you go out and do it over and over you just won't commit it to muscle memory. 
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  7. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic VG's for AVID Flyer   

    Sounds like my strip. Coming in to the south I have to slip hard over 20' power lines to land on 1000'. I give it a burst of throttle as I square up and flare just to cushion it about 5-10' off the ground and hit the brakes when I get down. Some times it cushions better than others lol. Some times I tail hook a little and sometimes I bounce enough to need a go around. It is a very slight down hill that direction with a barbed wire fence at the end. Its kind of hairy but I am learning each and every time I get in and out. Some day maybe all the learning will corispond with the environmental factors at the same time for more than an occasional greaser landing lol
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  8. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic 582 blue head radiator hose routing   

    I am starting to lean that way TJay. I was originally going to run both for a good cool climb but am now second guessing that. Just wondering since they two cheeks are about the same coverage as the belly if the belly will be enough by itself. I was actually thinking I may put a thermostat in the bypass line and splice into that with the belly rad. I would have thermostats on both sides of the engine even if one failed the other would allow coolant to flow through a rad instead of just circulating like it would now.
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  9. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic 582 blue head radiator hose routing   

    Ok tested the sending unit and it is spot on 211 degrees at boiling at 700' 71 degrees F. In fact the calibration thermometer I got for my fabric iron was 20 degrees low lol. Leads me back to where I started. The cheek rads have 135 cubic inches of core (6"x7.5"x1.5"x2 rads), The belly rad I got from TJay has 126 cubic inches of core (4"x18"x1.75") It would seem soley by virtue of that, the cheek rads should be better at cooling than the belly rad. I have been reading that people having problems usually do away with the cheek rads in favor of the belly rad which seems to be adequate. Therefore I can only think the only difference is the amount of air passing through the rads. If that is the case would adding a six inch electric fan behind each cheek rad to pull the air be enough to drop it a few degrees? I know it would help at idle on the ground but don't know about in the air. I know it is thinking outside of the box and would add a pound or two up front but it would keep the current look (which I like) and keep from having to replumb and hang a belly rad. If people think the belly rad by itself would be adequate I guess I could replumb and remove the cheek rads . I think I would put some sort of cover,block etc inside of the current cowling rad openings though. Just concerned with doing all that and end up back in the same predicament because of the smaller cubic inches of core. also don't know if the fans would tax the electrical too much.
    Mark
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  10. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic 582 blue head radiator hose routing   

    I will try to get a reading on my sending unit although not sure how I will do that. Would a jumper wire from the sending unit wire (female spade) be acceptable or would that change the reading due to electrical losses? I thought I would use a jumper  from the EIS to the sender and wrap a ground wire jumper around the sender. Then drop it in a pot of water heated next to the plane and use a candy thermometer to help check accuracy. If there is a better way I am open to suggestions. I know two rads would add some weight which I am not exactly fond of but if I took the cheek rads out I am guessing it would be better for me to close in the holes where the cheek rads used to be. Don't know if it would hurt or not having two big holes where the rads used to be.
    Mark
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  11. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic 582 blue head radiator hose routing   

    No Jim I have not double checked it. As long as I am 85 or below with two I can cruise comfy at about 173-176 and I am ok with that (if it is in the 70s it will cruise in the 165-169 range). I can even deal with the step climb at that ambient temp because I see the temps reacting relatively quickly after a climb. I use an EIS system and it so far has been pretty trouble free. My biggest concern is the climb after take off getting hot so fast with two on board. I weigh 185 and so far the biggest person that has flown with me is approx 180. I have a friend in the 200 lb range that wants to go and I am having to tell him to wait until it cools off more. I got to thinking about this after telling him that. The plane performs well even at the higher temps but I never let it above 190 before I level off and try to do it at 180. Problem is if it is 190 500' AGL it doesn't leave you much play room to level and start your step climb. It just makes me uncomfortable if I am trying to gain altitude from a 500' level while trying to keep temps down. To do so I have been keeping it in 180-190 range between steps going up and I just feel uncomfortable running it so hot.
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  12. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic 582 blue head radiator hose routing   

    One thing I just thought of. It might be slightly lighter but what about electric puller fans on each cheek rad. I would think that there would be enough air going through the rad to cool at max efficiency with a big fan and going 80 mph but just thought I would ask. I think my problem is not enough volume and rad space.
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  13. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic 582 blue head radiator hose routing   

    Yes I have tried coolant additives, dropping ratio etc. rads are sealed with foam surrounds It is "ok" solo but two people really pushes it in climb which I would be ok with if I could get back down in temps.  
    In 95 ish or higher temps two people I hit 185-190 just getting to 1000-1200 AGL( have hit 195 which really made me nervous so I nosed over in a slightly lower than level flight to get temps down). I then try to step climb my way up but once I am at cruise (approx 2000 AGL) I still have to watch it because it is about 178-180 which is a little on the uncomfortable side. Therefore I am putting a belly rad on. I know I am going to have to cover  some of the rad surface in the winter and I am ok with that. Solo in hot weather I can get a little higher before I step climb since it climbs faster and it seems to drop the temps easier since I dont need to use the same power setting for level flight solo.  I think my best solution is to try a belly rad at this time. I am not overly concerned with how far into the slip stream I need to get it simply because I think an additional 1/2 gallon plus the cooling fins should be adequate to drop it 10 degrees and let the climb last longer. So any help routing lines for both would be appreciated. Joey I think you did that for a little while didn't you?
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  14. tx_swordguy added a topic in Rotax and other engines   

    582 blue head radiator hose routing
    I am flying an avid b model with two cheek radiators and I would like to add a belly radiator to work in conjunction with the cheek rads. Tx heat during the summer gets it hotter than I would like flying two up.  I have to really be cognizant of the ambient temps with two people because my cruise can stay about 180 and climb goes higher. Anyway my inverted 582 blue head has the bypass line running around the rear of the engine with the radiator plumbing going from the thermostat. My question is can I plug the belly rad into the bypass/ recuirculate line since both the water pump and bypass line are angled backwards it would be easy to splice into that routing for the belly rad and I would just keep the cheek rad plumbing as it is. Is there a problem with cold seizure or something else by doing it this way or is there a better way to keep cheek and add a belly rad? Thanks Mark
    • 14 replies
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  15. tx_swordguy added a post in a topic 582 plugs   


    Actually surprised they are still firing. They look WAY rich. If that is on a cold inverted engine that has sat for a while the residual oil from the crank case can seep down and make a plug look like that. For a better idea of what is happening you can do a plug chop (look it up) or just pull the plugs shortly after shutting down will give you a better idea than a cold engine that has been sitting. I would probably replace the plugs to do a better check or at least clean them with a sand blaster down to white electrode. Some say not to use a sand blasting plug cleaner but as long as you make REALLY sure all the sand is cleaned out from down inside the plug I have not had any problems. If those are cold plugs I think that in there present state they are too far gone to give you an accurate plug reading to be honest. My 2cents though
     
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