Turbo, this is one of the areas where I admit poor design of the Avid Flyer... The good solution is to install the kind of gear Trent Palmer has but as any ideal solution it is expensive... My recommendation is to REMOVE the merciless safety cable to avoid having it cut the seat struss in 2 and replace it by a tight bungee between right and left leg. I know, incomprehensible as explanation so here is a picture. You can use any heavy duty bungee cord, the stiffer the better actually. In the beginning of the deflection (ie normal landing) there will be little tention on the horisontal bungee. Only at bad landings, great deflection, will the bungee enter in action (and save both prop and seat struss).
So how do they say this... If it ain't broke, don't fix it...? Not all planes are alike. The Avid Flyer takes a lot of footwork and some getting used to but it has a very sane behaviour. While no one will say it is the easiest plane to fly with clean turns there are no real traps to fall into. But it takes a little time to fully appreciate (well, that was actually very fast) and master (takes a little longer). Get some airtime before deciding what to change, if not you might not improve your plane but degrade it. By degrading I could mean just that (depending of what you used to fly before...) or change characteristics of the plane that you with more experience would have appreciated (or no longer noticed). I changed to the the F7A bell cranks, they have a positive impact but do not transform the plane (it still need an active pilot - luckily as that is one thing I like about it...). With just the F7A mod you do not have to disconnect anything when folding the wings. Regards Fred
Try this post... http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/3792-landing-gear-bungee-replacement/&do=findComment&comment=35787 The result look like on the photo - very easy to both make and install...
Any updates or second thoughts on the Luga/Kool- or-whatever-they-are-called-today props before I place my order? It looks like I will be going for a Scimitar SL107-1820 3 blade (with the actual diameter of 1840...). 620 euro including shipping and hub... I think I will be able to reuse my current spinner that I have for my Warp Drive... Go, no-go?
I changed from the stone hard Maule tailwheel to a Matco 6" pneumatic tailwheel. I was limited to 6" as I reused the Maule fork (I appear to be one of the few actually liking the Maule mechanism - maybe I'm just lucky...). If I had to change today I think I would go with the wide 8" kit http://www.matcomfg.com/TAILWHEEL8PNEUWIDE-idv-3690-13.html But whatever you do, go for pneumatic ! Regards Fred
I will be in Sevilla May 1st-15th but unfortunately I'll not have a car, otherwise it would have been nice to come and see your plane. You have it in a very beautiful area. Maybe next time I come to Sevilla... Fred
Hi Steven, welcome to the group! Interesting, I have never heard about Flymaster TSA 10 before. Do you have more information? When was it built, do Flymaster still exist... Find photos but nothing else on ghe web. Wher are you based? regards Fred
This is what I found in my rebuild photo folder... there is nothing really complicated with the triangle window. In mine it was a fiber glass frame that you cover and fold the tissue/oratex around... On the right sided window, upper left corner (ok, triangle, upper corner...) you see the the corner of the uncovered fiber glass frame. You can make the frame in any thin material that is easy to cover. Hope it helps... Fred