FredStork

Nice! Is that a landing strip on the ridge on the second to last photo? It looks like a clearer line there...

I did a 50% pre stretch (starting with 20 cm pulling it to 30 cm) before applying the wrapping and yes I did a double wrapping. I don't think it is needed to prevent slipping but if one wire breaks hopefully the other still holds.Have been using them for over 3 years and done some pretty bad landings without seeing any degradation in the wrappings or tendency to slippage.

This little tool makes it really easy to make the wrapping. I would say say the time to make it is almost gained back when making the second set.

A little neoprene glue add to the friction between the cords. 

A simple cotton band glued with textile glue protects the wrappings. And a shrink rapping gives a nice final touch as well as protection.

...and I just made 5 new sets for Avid pilot friends here in France...
I have also made a new set of "horisontal-between-the-landing-legs-bungees-to-replace-the-seat-struss-breaking-safety-wire" using the same wrapping method. I think wire wrapping is less agressive to the bungees than the metal clamps.  

Ed, great to see you back on line! Speedy recovery please, we are missing you!
Regards
Fred

Well done! and a nice playground. What speed were you doing and does the water slow you down?
Regards
Fred

Count me in
Fred

Some ideas in regards to cargo bags... It is not that hard to do yourself, or ask whoever has the sewing machine to help you. I made a hanging bag behind the seats. It has 2 aluminum tube frames. The top frame can be separate in 2 "U" shapes so it can be easily removed when folding the wings.

The lower frame hold a stiff bottom plate.

The fabric is folded over the frame and attached with Velcro. The bag is then attached to the existing tubes with some tent clips I found on Amazon... https://www.amazon.fr/MagiDeal-10pcs-Crochet-Plastique-10mm-13mm/dp/B019C3WKHQ/ref=cm_wl_huc_item (the link is to the French Amazon as I, after just a short search, could not find them on .com) there are 2 size, one fit the smaller tubes and the other the bigger tubes...

The 'behind the head bag" clips to the tubes with the same kind of tent clips and can easily be detached and carried around as I made a handle on the rear side.

The leather details are just for fun and requires a rather solid sewing machine. I happen to have an old Singer with a hand crank, but without the leather trimmings the rest could be done on and machine.
I started by doing a prop of paper and adhesive tape and then used the parts as a pattern. 

Brake fluid compatibility, the other way around problem...
I have Matco brake calipers and brake cylinders set up for 5606 or DOT5 as recomended by Matco. In my specific setup (will tell you about it later) I have an additional master cylinder. I bought one specific 5606/Dot5 for experimental aircraft and it turned out to be a high priced piece of... It leaks, it doesn't work and isn't worth the plastic it is made of...
But I happened to have a Chineese motorcyle break cylinder, brand new, never had a drop of oil in it. There is no indication on what brake fluid should be used but we can assume it is not military grade 5606. DOT 3/4 is more likey.
We know (because we have been told so...) that DOT 3/4/5.1 will do massive harm to o-rings and other seals made for 5606, and we don't want to try...
Here is my question: How will "DOT 3/4/5.1" o-rings and seals react on 5606? If they are expected to react, deteriorate and start to leak, after how long time?  
I filled up the master cylinder with red 5606 fluid, purged it, and applied pressure. Works great, but that was just a few days ago...

If user friendliness is a factor you can also take a look at Oratex. No solvants what so ever, no smells, no paint, no pain. It is so clean to work with you can do it in your living room.The end result will never be as perfect as "traditional just out of the paint box" but it looks very good and age very well. No paint that can crack or peel off. A great weight saver (saved somewhere between 5 a 7 kg on my Avid Flyer and had to reajust the CG...). As an example, including glue, covering both wings (left and right) is less than 3 kg of Oratex covering.
It might appear expensive by the meter but as it is all inclusive the price comes out pretty much the same in the end as Stewart. Unless you have to pay someone to do the paint job for you...
There are many posts on Oratex in the forum if you search for it and several of us have personal experiences to share. It is worth to take a look at.

Hej Anders!
just out of curiosity, is there a stall speed limit for ultra lights in Sweden? Here in France, where I live and fly even if I Swedish, the Avid with speed wing cannot be registred as ultralight due to the higher stall speed. Othewise the idea of having both sets of wings is interesting and could save some time on longer flights.
Vänlig hälsning,
Fred(rik)

I was seriously considering a 670 but they are hard to find and spares are sparse... as you know, I got the Simonini Victor 2 92hp 2 stroke. Weight and size as 582.
Light engines is the way to go for those planes - and no, I really don’t think 2 strokes are more prone to failures than complex 4 strokes.    

...and I’m still thinking about a way to add dampers to the original Avid landing gear... Maybe adding a cabane « V » to support 2 dampers...

Nice! Could you take a close up photo of the front attachment points? Does the cabane « V » sit outside or inside the attachment points on the frame?

Brooks, this is actually an interesting brake setup... do try a toe brake conversion but don't throw away this stuff... you might want to give it a second thought one day!
Normally when braking your engine will be on idle so no throttle to manage and the throttle hand will be free for braking. I think you will find it easier to brake evenly with the two levers in one hand than with the feets that at the same time will control the rudder (or tail wheel depending on speed). 
And yes, the KitFox pedals are better than the original Avid pedals, actually any pedals are better...

"I think the extra shock provided by reaching the end of the slack in the safety cable buckles the seat truss." I can confirm this is true... Been there, done that (even documented in a film - "I had a dream").
If the safety cable is there to protect the prop, by breaking the seat struss instead, it is a bad calculation... particularly now when we have found the magic and inexpensive NR-props...
I have removed the struss breaking safety cable and installed a 2 wrap horisontal rater stiff bungee between the legs:

It only comes into play at any greater deflection and hardly at all at normal landings. I have had at least one landing that could compare to when I (the safety cable) broke the seat struss and had no issues, no prop strike or other damage. 

John, let me guess... You added a frame on hinges?

I made a few films when covering my Avid with Oratex 600 (I used Oratex 6000 only for the landing gear).
Really great stuff! Just stay away from the pre-glued pinked edge bands (and make straight bands yourself) and be aware that the glue will get yellow some time after being heat activated - i.e. excess glue will show particularly on white...
There is more info on my blog, filter the posts on “Oratex”:
http://avidsimonini.blogspot.com

Well, that might be difficult, maybe we can agree on "somewhat crazy"... But it is a good craziness!

yes I have 2 wing tanks with separate valves and a feedertank with a normally closed vent (only opened to purge air after switching tank after level alert...) 

Jerome, you are probably right, you had 2 possible ways to get air in the tank and yes the ram air in the empty tank might have blocked the flow and air could either get in ther or throught the vent or both... So separate valves for each of the tanks is good idea (it also helps to use only one tank and preserve the other one from eventual ethanol contamination).
Good luck and fixing the issue and thank you for your consideration. Repair is progressing and I should be flying by end of the month.
Fred

Jerome,
with the 2 tanks connected through a "Y" the 2 tanks should under normal conditions contain fule to the same level. This is most liekly the situation when yountake the plane out of the hangar. Your problem is that fuel flows easier from the left tank than from the right. In flight you see this as a difference in fuel level between the tanks. But if you land and wait a while they will get to the same level again, right?
Once one tank is empty it is apparently easier to fill the feedertank with air trough the (left) empty tank or through the vent lione of the feedertank. 2 possibilities, either the outlet, fuel line or eventual filer between the left tank and the feeder tank is partially clogged and therefore slowing the flow or the venbt on the tank is not working as expected. You say "ram air tubes", I assume this to be the classic forward facing tube sticking up into the air flow over the wing. Verify that the vent is not obstructed and if that is not the case modify the position and or length on the tube.
I recomend installing a fuel warning system in the feedertank and a switch between the left and right tank. But note that this will not resolve your issue, you need to find out why the fuel is flowing too slowly.
Now we get into the controverial part of the discussion... I recomend closing the vent line on the feedertank. It should be opened only to let air out once the level in the feedertank has gone below the alarm level, then switch tank, open the vent until the alarm stops, i.e. the feedertank is again full of fuel. 
The reason for this is, as mentionned below and in the other string, that with an obstructed, or partially obstructed, fuel line it will be easier for the fuel pump to suck ion air through the vent (or empty tank) than sucking fuel through an even just partially obstructed line. I.e. the danger of open vent lines (other than on the main tanks...) is that while thye are there to let air out they can just as well let air in. It is better to manually controll the air out.
And yes, glider pilots, as well as hang and paraglider pilots, have the advantage of always knowing where to land. Saved me when I lost my old 532 in flight...
Regards
Fred

Hi Jerome,
glad you had a safe landing. There is a long string on tanks, connections and vents mith opinions, experiences, pros and cons that you might want to read. I have some ideas about what could have been your issue but would need more details. http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/5597-engine-failure-yesterday/
regards
Fred

Thanks, yes, I'm primary looking for second hand deal...

Here is, as promised, a pick of the broken landing gear. I think it sends a clear message, "Do NOT land in a ditch". If you have another interpretation let me know:
But the repair is progressing. I'm refurbishing the landingear that I miraculously was able to collect on the way home (Thank you again Juan!)
And I have repaired the cowling, now ready for some new paint... And I do have some left...
The left wheel axis was bent - $hit! - but as I had an order in for Matco for some new brake cylinders (yes, in addition to the crappy pilot I also had crappy brakes) I added a new wheel axis. I'll try to straighten out the old one but they are really short and sturdy - don't think it will be easy.
Earlier today I sent a tear-dripping mail to our friend Roman at NR Props in Ukraine hoping we will give me a good price on the replacement blades (I have already given him at least 1 confirmed customer).
I had to cut the bungee cord as the twisted gear blocked it so I will be making new bungees for myself and anyone else in europe who is interested... (collecting requests until Friday when I will be placing the order with Aircraft Spruce).
If things goes as planned I should be flying again by end of August (and have time for another holiday week with the family in between.