70- should be doable. It takes more power to push beyond that. I'd actually passed the question at one time to Dean Wilson- "Why 90 VNE?", and the response came back-- 'Didn't think anyone would want to go faster than that..'. I can't go full throttle in level flight- my 1/2 throttle cruise is around 80 mph. The plane starts to feel a little squirrelly faster than that, so... I don't go there. While the challenger is an aft pusher, the catalina thrust line is much higher, so be gentle with the throttle until you get a feel for it. The other problem with the catalina, is with those big wings- high speed taxi can quickly become low speed flight, pull back on the throttle, and you stall almost immediately. I have a problem in Texas in summer- coming in for a landing, when I cross the threshold on a big asphalt runway, I generally balloon up 100 feet or so, just from the lift.. and flying in turbulence with that light a wing load is NOT fun. Crosswinds suck, as well- you're going to have to learn to crab and kick- those floats out there don't make one-wheelers very practical. And a crosswind gust just as you land can get real exciting. Not to mention the lack of suspension- I run my tires at 16 lbs. I don't hit the lakes on weekends- Boat wakes aren't the problem, but the boats and jetskis are. Seems they all want to come over and take a look, which kinda clashes with the FAA regs.. You won't have the normal boating problems- any wind, and you weathervane into it, so no worry about rolls. Anything from the side, still no roll, as your wings are supported. Roller over the bow- haven't seen it yet, but I'm not going to try and find the experience. Rough water can be more of a challenge. Been there, decided to fly closer in to the lee next time. I try and keep spray out of the prop. I do carry a sea anchor- little weight, haven't had to use it yet, but there's a LOT of sail on the catalina, should the engine not start. Biggest problem I had in transitioning from a taildragger (land) was my trying to land as the waves said I should, rather than as the wind said I should. I did my transition down in key west- seeing the sharks in the water gave you incentive for a better landing.. but the sponge looked like rocks to me. -Jack Austin, TX
When I was building mine, I was worried about the canopy brace (which you don't have to, it seems- you have gull wings), and moved my rudder pedals forward, which dropped my knees, and made more room for the stick. I'm 6', and 195, and I fit ok, but the passenger side seems to have less room.. and you can darn well forget the back. I fit the floor in the back, and then took it back out- easier to check for water, and after squeezing myself into the back, once, knew that I would NEVER have anyone back there, so no need for a floor. Water is an issue- the step is pretty shallow, and any water in the cabin area can QUICKLY migrate aft into the tail at a not-so-steep climbout, and do all sorts of nasty things to your weight and balance. I have an automatic/manual bilge pump, and an indicator light that tells me when it's operative. On approach to water landings- it's on automatic, and stays there until takeoff, when it goes to manual (after insuring that it's not currently running- did I mention that I have the floor out in back so I can check for water?). I do a shallow climb with the pump ON, and then switch to auto, checking for water ( light still on) before I try and increase my climb angle (light off). Why so picky? https://www.aopa.org/training-and-safety/air-safety-institute/accident-analysis/featured-accidents/amphib-carwheels-on-takeoff I knew Jim, and had land-taxied in his catalina with him. His had modified landing gear, which didn't leave him much clearance between the step and the ground- any little bump, and he'd drag, especially with both of us in the plane- something to check for. He was also fighting water incursions- and from all accounts, tried to yank it off the water, and the water jumped the step.. Recommendation? Do a few high-speed taxis on the water, stop, and check for leaks (you do NOT need that rear floor...). If it seems dry, still be cautious. Before heading out to a lake for landing, I actually mowed a path and rigged a ramp into a stock tanks (acre-sized pond), and drove around in that a bit, and found a significant leak around one axle. I made a packing bearing for the inside axles, and filled the outside gap (?) with 3m 5200 sealant. I still get a bit of a weep, but I can live with it.. especially with that light... The only concern I had when looking at the pics of the plane on ebay were about the "f1" mods to the engine shroud. While having that one big radiator out on one side of the plane is draggy, if you look at the standard 582 installation, the engine shroud is pretty aerodynamic, which gives you a smoother flow into the propeller, allowing it more of a bite(power) and less noise. If you find that you don't seem to have much power, and have a really coarse setting on your prop, that's where I'd look first. Look at the open area behind the firewall on your plane, and mine. I've even streamlined the push-rods for the flaperons since, just to clean up the air into the prop, and smoothed out some of the extraneous stuff on the forward cowling designed for other engines. Have fun! But.. don't expect to be in a hurry to get there- it's a pretty draggy airplane. Jack- Austin, TX
Found on: facebook flying machine marketplace lists: https://tinyurl.com/yy6hoja4 Text is: Avid Amphibious aircraft kit $5,50002747Unfinished kit, No engine, prop , interior or instruments, Lots of work completed. Calls Only for details five 0 eight four nine 6 five 3 nine 4
I have no knowledge of the project- just stumbled across it. The sponsons appear to be unattached. I don't have a FB account, so couldn't view the full set of pictures.
8 hours to go, and only a single bidder? Here's another option- an amphibian that hasn't been completed- the facebook flying machine marketplace lists: https://tinyurl.com/yy6hoja4 Text is: Avid Amphibious aircraft kit $5,50002747Unfinished kit, No engine, prop , interior or instruments, Lots of work completed. Calls Only for details five 0 eight four nine 6 five 3 nine 4
Actually, the guy (Jim) that went in on Inks Lake had a different problem- his Catalina had been altered, and had storage areas hollowed out into the *inboard* sponsons (which cover the wheels) accessible from the cockpit. I thought it was a neat idea when I saw it - a good place to stick charts and whatever, but he had a bit of separation between the hull and the sponson (caused by learning to land a tailwheel aircraft in a plane without suspension), and water started jetting in.through those openings. To my knowledge, he did not have a seaplane rating. Long story short, if you even *think* you have a lot of water in the fuselage, do NOT try and yank it off the water. I have an automatic bilge pump in my cat that has a switch for automatic, and manual. If the pump is running in either mode, I have an indicator light that comes on. Checklist on landing- bilge pump on automatic. Checklist on takeoff, pump on manual, and a gentle climb off the water for the first 20 seconds, switch to auto, check for operation light, and only then... Jim took off heavy, had water, pulled back hard, and the water ran to the tail, shifting CG, and stalling him. Knew Jim, knew his plane, and have since landed on Inks Lake, thinking of him. If you watched my youtube video, you'll note a caption in there after my first landing "checking for water". I do not have a floorboard in the rear of my cat (only a midget/child could sit back there- I tried once), so I can readily check for water. There is *nothing* in the cat design to stop a sudden rush of water(weight) to the tail, other than a small step. $,02 Jack
Oops- missed it. You're looking for an inboard mount. You might try and contact Don- he had a thread under catalinas (don's catalina), and had moved his sponsons iniboard as well. I only have the one jury strut- he had two, and moved it in to the outer of the two (yeah, it reads confusing to me as well, but there are pictures in the thread..)
I made the change. I'm not that great a welder, so I bought a 1" tube (whatever the width of the float is), and split it where the float flange is, bending it down for a hole, and a bolt mounting point on the float. I also drilled through the pipe with a hole saw for the vertical mounts- and since I pinned them with bolts, they are adjustable. It looked to me as though the nose needed to be down a bit on the lotus floats, and flying found that to be the case- Not a great picture- but it's on this site:
If you zoom in on it, you might be able to see what I did. The little red dot at the tip is an aerodynamic touch- a superball ground down to fit. Note the nose of the float is still a bit high. I brought is down a bit more after this flight- as per the tufting. Jack Austin, TX
Cruising speed is still around 75, but I can push it on up to 90+ straight and level.. and burn lotsa fuel. I have a fuel flow gauge, and try to keep it down around 5.5 gph in cruise, full throttle is more like 11. There's a LOT of drag in the design, especially as you push it faster. I do use the water rudder when it's windy, it's hard to turn against the wind without it, even dragging an outboard sponson isn't enough at times. I don't hook up the control rod from the tail unless it's windy (that picture was an early one- the rudder is now installed). Of course, landing will be rough when it's windy.. go for the lee. I have nickle edges on my prop as well, but was shocked at the amount of water going through the prop in rough water plow taxis (camera footage), so avoid that whenever possible when rough. It was even taking the paint off- my tips are no longer painted. One note of caution, it's possible to bring up the rudder and have it on the outside of the control rod, which then limits your rudder travel. If it doesn't come up right (takes extra oomph to try and seat it), drop it back down, center your rudder, and try again. If you're really far forward CG (you've seen my W&B), you might cast some lead into a split shape that might easily fasten onto those handles at the rear when needed... a little lead that far back goes a long weigh (some pun intended)?
So you went and did it? Congratulations! At your weight, I can imagine that it would fly off pretty quickly. I weigh 195 and, as mentioned, I attach a 25 pound barbell weight to the floor on the passenger side of the plane to give me more forward CG when I fly solo. When I have a passenger, I can remove it. It's nothing more than a pipe flange, a short nipple, and a cap. The pipe flange stays, and really isn't in the way. My first flight had the stick pretty far forward as well, I just adjusted it back a bit. And, yes, with all that wing and lift, first takeoff surprised me too! I hardly use any trim at all, don't really need it. I worked through the weight regime by flying with Mr. Sandman.. a waterproof duffelbag with first one, then two 50 pound sacks of sand, augmented by additional barbell weights along the way. I do find that the forward CG positions (at gross) do tend to become hard to perform a full power-on stall, but have little issue with power-off. And, if you want to practice engine-outs, what better place to do it than over a large, empty body of water? I did one BFR in the catalina, and when the instructor asked about engine outs, I demonstrated one. I believe it was the first time she'd aver done a *real* engine out... If you change the horizontal stabilizer, do it one washer at a time- a little bit of change goes a LONG way! While the other is an earlier picture, you can see on zooming in on the trim tab that it's just barely deflected upwards- I do not trim for landings, I prefer to hold pressure, and not mess with re-configuring if I need to go around.
Yes, that's mine/me on youtube "Lake Granger Splashin". I've taken rough water videos as well, but it's a pain to find "public domain" music to go along with it all. While building, I tried to capture every picture I could of other catalinas/amphibians/landphibians,and some of them saved a lot of head-scratching. One thing I've noted- Not one catalina has done their gear lock/unlock the same way. I'm still working on that one- I can lock wheels up just fine, but there have been a few "button pinching" episodes trying to get the gear back down. I just made another mod- hopefully it'll be better. At the end of almost every work session, I took pictures of what I'd done that day, so if you want... Mine was a project started in 1992, and donated to a Civil Air Patrol squadron, where it sat and lost parts, and was then auctioned off, and stuck in a storage room for another ten years, losing parts along the way (my center gas tank is in the catalina in Forth Worth- the blue one). Mine came with the Hirth F30, purchased from the original distributor, Falconar in Canada, and they'd set it up with a dynafocal mount. It also had one of the VERY first NSI gearboxes. I hated scrapping out a zero-time gearbox. I used aircraft birch the same thickness as the originals for the finger ribs. I'd had a few tails lost on mine through the storage years, and had already made a few replacements. The leading edge ply (1/32) is also aircraft birch. The plastic leading edge I bought from Steve Winder back when- his comments: "The Plastic Leading edge cuff DOES Work. It "sharpens" the Front Spar Radius which helps reduce stall and improve speed. Every little helps on a slow draggy airplane...like Avids." It's the same used for the kitfox, but if you go with the Riblett rib the profile already incorporates that, and more. To secure the leading edge to the finger ribs- I cut an outside clamp for gluing. you can just make out the foam between it and the leading edge. You can also see how I clamped the extra finger ribs- no tail needed. There was a lever effect- pull down the tail with the leading edge ply already secured, and then temporarily tie the tail using safety wire while the thickened epoxy set, and cut 'em off later.
Incidentally, those HF bar clamps work pretty well for gluing- if you try and tighten them too much, which would cause a glue-starved joint, they break. But- they have a lifetime warranty- keep your receipt. Here's another thing you might do while the wing is open-I ended up putting my comm antenna out on the wing, over inspection plates for the pitot. Please, if you don't have it, put in a combination static/pitot. I could *never* find a good static spot. Anyway- looks pretty iffy before covering, but I've talked 40 miles, using an Icom A3. I'd also run a thin pex tube to the wingtip to run your nav light wires through if you use them, that way, if something happens in the future, they're a lot easier to replace.
I used Smiths CPS ( clear penetrating epoxy sealer) to prime all my wood- I first used it when restoring a large wooden boat,and became hooked.
A bit off topic? I grew up on Texoma, on the border of Texas and Oklahoma, north of Dallas. I've *never* been on the whole lake, not even a quarter of it- didn't have that much time, or gas. I hope to fly the cat up there this spring, my father retired in the house we built together back in the 70's, and I'd love to fly in and surprise him. The only problem? The Catalina cruises at 70-75. Given the weather in Texas, it might be a week long trip!. I *really* like water ops- but it is, from time to time, a long haul to the *big* waters (hence the Osprey build). However, there are enough man-made ponds (ranchers call them "tanks" down here) that I enjoy the sudden increase in really safe emergency landing spots. I might get in safely, and trailer out. Luckily, haven't had to test that yet, but there was this one buzzard.. And there are *still* bridges out in Texas from the floods last memorial day . Dry, maybe, but not always! Lake Travis was down 60 feet this time last year, and now it's only down 5! If you want to know how quickly things change, this is a fun video- it starts out slow, but keep watching! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6beJDUSSqqc -Jack
Y'know, if the CPS wing tanks had been available at the time, I might have tried those out, instead of the full-lotus sponsons- empty, they'd serve the same purpose, and if nothing else, you could use them unplumbed to hold spare fuel (or?) for a long flight..? Jack