n757jh

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About n757jh

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  • Gender Not Telling
  • Location Rochester, NY
  • Interests avidflyer.wikia.com

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n757jh's Activity



  1. n757jh added a post in a topic Avid Flyer Short Wing - For Sale - Upstate NY   

    SOLD.
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  2. n757jh added a post in a topic CAUTION ON EBAY - MAY CHANGE TO WARNING!   


     
    How to get contact information:  scroll to the bottom of most eBay screens, click on Site Map.  On the right side, under Connect, click on Find Contact Information.  Enter the userid and item number involved in your transaction.  Be aware that the other member will receive your contact info when you receive theirs.
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  3. n757jh added a post in a topic Avid Flyer Short Wing - For Sale - Upstate NY   

    Instrument panel.
     

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  4. n757jh added a topic in For Sale and wanted, you got it, I want it   

    Avid Flyer Short Wing - For Sale - Upstate NY
    Fresh annual, brand new blue head 582 installed, 115 TTAF.  For more details and photos:
     
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Avid-Flyer-For-Sale/270446786333995
    • 2 replies
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  5. n757jh added a post in a topic Joannes High EGT's   

    Leni,

    The new spark plug wires are done. Question: what's a good way to keep the coil end of the connection secure? This new wire is stiffer than the old, and slightly smaller in diameter. Just pushing it onto the pin and covering it with the boot doesn't seem like enough. The braided shield over the wire is grounded to the coil mounting bolt, which helps hold it, but not securely. What do you think? Safety wire?

    Joanne
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  6. n757jh added a post in a topic Joannes High EGT's   

    The List:

    You never said if sealant (proper crank case engine sealant) was used between the case halves. The only thing that will make a 2 stroke run hot like that is a lean fuel mixture, be it too little fuel, or too much air due to a leak and timing. No way for me to know, the rebuild shop put it back together.

    Check Carb boots for cracks. Rotax Carb boots suck. JBM Industries makes a much better boot with a better rubber compound that lasts much longer. Click here for JBM Industries Existing already were the newer, thicker type; had spares on hand so replaced them with new just to rule them out. Not sure if they were JBM, they are thick as well and just slightly different than the old ones, so might be.

    Primer lines OK, or if not used the caps are in good shape and sealed well. Had some red line on hand, so replaced to rule them out. Don't like the red, can't see through it, going to replace again with blue.

    Vent lines also replaced, four holes properly drilled in each.

    Fuel lines from pump to carbs replaced, new brass filters.

    Rotary valve timing is correct. The third I did I was looking at the book (engine right side up) and working on an engine that is upside down... I timed it to the wrong cylinder. Didn't run too good! The rebuild shop would have done this... the engine did run ok during the static runup to check prop pitch (6250 rpm) so I think this is ruled out.

    Carb bodies cleaned out. Pull the main jet and make sure there is no blockage, even the tiniest hair. Swapping the carb bodies should have ruled this out. No harm in cleaning them out again.

    Plastic screen that goes over the main jet was not damaged when the float bowl was put back on. Screens are good - always handle them carefully.

    Float level set properly. Yup.

    Did you mess with the in flight mixture on the cylinder that was running hot. Crank that open a turn or two. My plane normally runs one cylinder a turn richer than the other to keep the EGT's the same. Yes, but it didn't come anywhere near overcoming the 200 degree difference - that might be more than even a main jet change could overcome. Yes, I've adjusted one a turn richer than the other in flight as well.

    I did mess with the idle air mixture and idle rpm, got it set and ran it for a little bit. Next time the engine was started it didn't run quite as smoothly, and this temperature difference showed up in flight. I think that's just a coincidence. Especially since swapping the carb bodies didn't move the problem. Those adjustments should only have an effect on idle.

    Bad plug wires should make it pop snort and fart or not run at all, but I can't see it making the cylinder run hot....... We were just thinking, since the wires are 20 yrs old, and two of them are jammed behind the exhaust bracket (coils mounted on inside of firewall, lower center between pedals), it's a good time to reroute those and replace them all, and new caps too. Rules those out as causes.

    Hey, just thought of this.... You changed the stator correct.. did you change the trigger coils are they the slotted type that you can change timing on, or the fixed round hole that you can only adjust gap??? If one of them is off, I can see it hosing up the EGT's, and you will really see it at high RPM as it does advance a small amount with the Ducatti ignition. Actually we found a crossed wire, did the ohms checks after fixing this and it checked ok, so we left the old one in. Old triggers with round hole. Gap checked ok.


    The rotary valve oil level was down about a teaspoon. It never used oil like that before the rebuild. I filled it back up but haven't run it again.

    We are in the midst of setting up a vacuum/pressure test.

    Need to redo the compression test as it was done before this problem started.
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  7. n757jh added a post in a topic Joannes High EGT's   


    Thanks very much for the offer, Joey - I do have one, it is very good.

    Joanne
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  8. n757jh added a post in a topic Joannes High EGT's   


    Well, that explains why squirting it directly down the throat of the carb didn't have much effect. Thanks, didn't know that.



    Arctic Sparrow mixture control = no clips.



    Good advice. This is all happening within the first three hours after a rebuild. There's a lot that gets done to remove/reinstall... and then there's the other problems we were chasing down prior to this one... the mind boggles.

    Joanne
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  9. n757jh added a post in a topic Joannes High EGT's   


    Go easy, Joey. I'm on a steep learning curve here. We started ruling out the easy things first. I got on the phone with Jack at LEAF, he suggested the WD-40 into the B gearbox hole, which didn't seem to have much effect even when squirted directly into the carb.

    You have no idea how much more difficult it is for us to work on this, than it is for you. Hell, I don't even shake hands with people anymore before warning them that I have arthritis. And Dan's had some sort of cold/flu for four weeks now. The airport is 40 miles away. My hangar is unheated and drafty with a dirt/gravel floor, and it's only getting into the low 40's here now.

    We're doing the best we can. So if you have something constructive to contribute, I'd appreciate the help.
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