Ironman Al

Looking for replacement Warp drive 74" Tappered blades with nickel edges, RH. Thanks!

From what I've read the 22000 capacitor with the voltage regulator is to flatten the current leaving the regulator, not specificly a noise sepressor! I'm receiving whinning noise on the radio.

Thanks! I will check those things out!

I've got a lot of winning engine noise in the headsets! I Beleive its my alternator, the noise increases with rpm. Can anyone tell me what noise suppressor I need for the 912ul alternator? I've read a lot about noise in the system and I've got a filter on the ignition. But I'm looking for a part specific #! Thanks!

I like your skis! I'd like to build something like that! Any tips or pointers you can give me? Length, width, aluminum thickness? Could you use a shock( as light as posible) like the old snowmobiles had?

Just wondering how the new Avid co. Is doing? Is there any advanses in the start up? 

What would the correct degree setting be on a 912 then for the Tiny Tach?

Question! If I use Bing64 carbs made for a 914, would I need to rejet them to put them on a 80 horse 912?

Is this still available?

Needed! Set of Bing 64 carbs for my 912ul, need o swap out carbs for tests on rpm. Any help appreciated!!

Needed! A set of Bing 64 carbs for my 912 ! Any help appreciated!

Sorry for the delay on up dating this. After adjusting the warp drive prop 1.5 degrees the rpm went up to normal static running rpm.Oddly the Rotax tach was off only after it reached 3500. The TinnyTach and lazer confirmed that.

It just started! Its only a thought that maybe my engine is running up right and my tack is off. Ill be doing a strobe light test on the prop to tell for sure.

Has anyone ever had a Rotax tachometer that didn't read correct rpm? Mine will only go up to 3500 rpm., Engine runs smooth and seems to be at full power, good fuel supply with 5pd of pressure, throttle on carbs is all the way to max position, little room left before stop. Prop is set at mid climb/ cruise. Just thinking it's got to be a simple problem or faulty teach reading. Any thoughts appreciated! Thanks!

Ignition switch problem solved, replaced switch with simular one.

My wires from the mag switches go to the ignition switch, the wires could just be ground connect, disconnect from switch.

Hey All! My ignition switch broke, turned to the start position and wouldn't go back, New one needed, this has probably been asked before! If so excuse me, Its 6 posts but only 5 used, 2mag, acc,gnd,Batt, and sol. No luck at kitfox catalog either, Is the mags both powered off one post and one is a mag ground? If so, then I've seen several switches that will work, I've got toggles for mags. Can anyone tell me who makes them, no name or number on old switch.Thanks for any info!

It sounds like the larger cross over tube is the way to go, at least it couldn't hurt. Ill be doing a static ground test this week end and see if it reacures.

Thanks for that info 1avid flyer! Sounds interesting! I'm going to do a static run up this week end and see if it acures on the ground, but that does make sense in low rpm balance.

Hey all! Here's a question about my Rotax UL912,  So flying along and slowing down, engine reaches 2800 rpm and starts running ruff, increase rpm and its smooth, and below 2800 its smooth again, but it did this several times! Any ideas on what could cause this, fresh fuel 91 octain, new filters, new carb boots, new battery, engine starts instantly and sounds fine at every other rpm.

Ive got an extra set of Kitfox gas cap seals for the blade style or Mark V and older. They are made by Mercedes Bens, blue, 17.00$ per.

Is the folding wings idea a Avid first? Not realy! I found this picture of a Sopwith 807 tabloid Naval biplane 1914 circa. Seems almost the same design as our Avid/Fox planes! Did Dean get the idea from designs of the past? Many things that worked before seems to come back again. Now flat head engines are coming back, the "D" motor engine, the radial engine, bicycle parts on the Harrier to control the engine rotation. What else??? Humm! Oh ya Ed! They had a Nose dragger to! Probably the first, It was a Sopwith Schneider with out floats.

Ranthane or Arothane are the same kind of paint, polyurethain, flex addatives in it. My resent paint over poly cost about 575.00, from Raldolf is was Ranthain, youll need a 1 gal.  Nice to do with the wings are off!!

Ed!, those latches are, PERKO surface mount cam larches. 22$ to 36$ locking or not locking, www.boatoutfitters.com.  possibly you can find them cheaper on Ebay. They are nice, you can grab the lever on the inside, or make on up, there is a long enough threaded stud sticking out inside, Ill probably do that and cut the extra stud off. Tjay, I dought they will fall apart, their shock proof and made to be walked on in the deck of a boat! There are all metal ones, stainless, but weight was my decision to get these, much lighter than the original hardware handles. Only problem is the handle will be tiped down while your in the plane, unless you put a pull string threw the latch.

If you go with full Lexan doors you can use these type of marine flush mount door latches, their light and lockable, no air can get threw either, they are made for boats and available on the intermet.