If this plane and my plane were combined you would have one real nice plane.My wings and your engine setup with all the best from the two you could have a total price of about $20 to 30,000. I would even though in my e81 professional converted to resell.Plus spare part from both
I may be able to sell mine. I am in southern ontario and am registered here. The pictures on this site are not what it looks like at the moment. I have disasembled the engine area and am looking to cut up the 582 motor mount to install a subaru this winter so if you want a 582 you need to be quick.
cowlove, I see you noticed that inboard radiator. I did not like the drag and tried a different approach that worked. I ducted from the side window into a rad mounted under the engine against the firewall and instaled an electric fan for stationary and slow taxi. I had to put air exit holes at back of turtle deck. I will put up more pictures when snow is gone and I pull out aircraft. Packed away wraped up for winter at the moment. I don't have any pics I can find at the moment that would show what is needed to see. Don
While you’re leveling off at cruise altitude, the forces of discharge air and P-factor still exist, but they are diminished because of reduced power. Here, the airplane designer (which is you now) provides a corrective force: the left wing or right wing is rigged so that it develops slightly more lift at cruise speed than the other wing, offsetting the left or right-turning tendency. ( this can be adjusted with the left strut assembly) Now with an extreme condition you can add another strut assembly to the right side. The vertical fin is also slightly offset, so that at cruise speeds the push of discharge air on the left side or right side of the tail surfaces is corrected for. ( there are four aprox 40' angled supports for the stabilizer main tube that should be reversed or equaled to set correct fin angle which can be varied according to various drag problems that are unknown( exhaust, radiator location,etc.) This is why I went with straight for mine. These are just modifications to do flight tests and adjustments will likely have to be made after a few flight and taxi tests. Even a few static runup tests will show some adjustments needed to balance the aircraft. These corrections are exactly effective at only one cruising airspeed: go faster or slower and aileron or rudder trim will be required. Engine adjustment may also be necessary so now is the time to add these features. Now to say that I know what I am doing is wrong and do not take anything I say as right. That is why I am here, To check what I have learned with others.
I was using a 670 reworked in these pictures, real light and lots of power but almost no reliability. Take off was no more than 200 ft, cruise was 85mph Not a clue on rate of climb but fast. Big problem was landing as it did not want to leave ground effect so I had to fly it into the water instead of doing a flare. I was scared to take it to far from a landing location. I think it has too much lift. Heavier engine may help that. I am back into pieces now getting rid of weight like heaters and such, Relocating battery and eliminating back seat to accommodate extra weight of the Subaru. I can add weight if needed instead of trying to have everything at first. Also added an electric landing gear I saw on that red avid in Ontario California, Casey Curtis I believe was his name. !00 times better than the old finger pinching unreliable manual. I will get some pictures of the doors. They came with the plane when I bought it but were made of fiberglass and I made new ones out of aluminum that worked way better.
I would recommend other Catalina owners to change the windshield as I have and to try sponsons inboard as well. The handling in water is much better with less stress on wings. You need a little more control as it handle more like a sea do but so much more fun when you drop a wing and spin on the sponson. I do rip one off every so often because of light weight hanger and also get some looks when people see an airplane doing 180's but control in tight docking spaces is unbelievable. Added a folding door on the wheels that is spring loaded to create a smooth surface for quicker takeoff. Another simple but effective solution to spray. I lost to many engines with water in carb.
I don't have an adjustable stabilizer on my craft. I was referring to The Lil Buzzard that has one on later models. They wanted an aircraft design that could be built for any engine. I wish I had taken the time and money to design one for a mine. At the time of recover I knew that I was going to change engines. I used the old fashioned method of grasping the tail and bending it forcibly to take out small amounts of deflection. The amphibs do not have as large of need for perfect vertical stabilizer as they are a pusher configuration and don't have the same P-factor as a tractor. I can't get to my aircraft at this time to figure out what tubes they had to lengthen and shorten but it was just a few of the ones that held the center tube going up to the main center tube that shapes the rudder and stabilizer. I am already covered so it is difficult to see anything. A little adjustment did a lot. Now if you can get a picture on here of straight down to the rear from the center of the plane showing the tubes at the root.
Don't get to overly concerned. it is not very difficult at all to change the tail. I did not do it myself but it cost just a hundred dollars. I watched the professional builder set it up and it looked very easy. Much easier than an engine mount. Run a string down the center line and extend or shorten tubes to get degree of incidence you want. Mine is straight now. I may change a little one way or another after first test flight if trim tab won;t be enough. This guy was the builder and designer for The Little Buzzard and they designed in an adjustable Vertical stabilizer to fine tune handling. I just wanted everyone to remember the whole aircraft works as a unit when making modifications. Safety is control.