bcbushcaddy

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Posts posted by bcbushcaddy


  1. Spring 2022 Update

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    Well it's been a little while since I've posted in here and this is just a little update on our Subie. It's still attached to Nellie's airframe and as of a few days ago, moving it off the ice and back onto wheels we've put in 70+ hours. The engine in itself has performed flawlessly and run without a miss ever since installed. The Crux of the system going from automotive to aviation, despite it's original aviation design on the EA8, is with all the sub systems from belt drive, right up to carb heat. If you decide to build any automotive conversion yourself, remember that you can't just roll on over to the next Autozone and pick up, ..let's say an alternator mount for the new light weight 38amp unit. Or get a carb heat box for your Weber carb upgrade. Or maybe grab a new engine mount dampener off the shelf while you're there. No Sirreee, you will have to design, build and source way beyond what Tony Bingelis may have put in his book on engines and your version 1.01 might not quite cut it the first time around the patch. Back to the drafting board you go, only problem being, most likely you're also the test pilot in all of this. Well now, just how brave (smart) are ya? How many more "Check - Frights" do you in you? In either case if you're sole determination is to build a cheap automotive conversion to save some dollars on your project you may want to do some serious Soul, yes thats with a U fool, and not the $ole ($$$) $earching before entertaining such an endeavour. I would highly recommend, for starters, to follow tried and true more so than thinking you'll re-invent the whole homebuilt world of how to set up automotive engines and that history and those you came before you just simply got it wrong. Now, if everything you've just read thus far doesn't stop your resolve to build your own engine conversion, go ahead, read on.  

    Do I still stand behind the Subaru? Absolutely 100%!! It is a solid, reliable, time proven option and all of my encountered issues were not as much Subaru Engine problems but "me-chanic induced problems" more so, with the biggest issue, getting all the items you attach to it running in tune with the engine. Perfecting the mounting, air intake, fuel delivery, exhaust flow, cooling, and last but not least the reduction drive/propeller system. Don't expect for a moment that you can just add a new part and it will fit and operate perfectly. I got bitten big time by a new water pump installation, despite the fact that way back in 2006 I've printed and filed a builder report pertaining to the three (3) YES THREE different water pump options that all will fit the EA81 Subie, but all are slightly different in heights and not necessarily in alignment with your stock main crankshaft pulley. But that's a whole another story in itself. And after all the installation woes, it will take some time tweaking, I thought I had it at 15hrs, then for sure at 30hrs, definitely at 40 and now at 70, with the last 30 rather flawless I'm still finding myself doing little adjustments tweaks here and there. If it were a Lycoming these would be done most likely by the local AP at some great cost (cutting into the fuel budget) and not really furthering the understanding of my engine. Which brings me to the true reason for me to build, to do what I (we) did, and that is to "experiment", "learn", and being able to proudly say, "Yup we built this!" 

    To say this whilst sitting around a backcountry fire with a good friend, cooking some Connoisseur blue collar tube steaks, ..PRICELESS!!

    Best regards, Willy T.  

    1 person likes this

  2. Thanks everyone for their thoughts, ideas, and contributions above. To update you, the 3 blade Warp is back on, the vibration is less as expected and best guess, given due consideration to the enclosed, is that its coming from the gearbox. It is nearing the 500hr mark and given the fact it is this load, unload scenario we feel its time to look deeper. We'll let you know what we find, here on this topic page. 

    This is by no means a NR is bad and WarpDrive is good kind of posting, nothing could be further from the truth. The NR is absolutely gorgeous and a great option in the wide array of propellers. More to follow, have a great weekend!  


  3. Thanks Laurent, Jim for your insights. We did double check the angle via digital inclinometer and both tips are 9deg. respectively. The gap all around can’t be the same as the outboard 2 (4) bolts are torqued to 164 and the main hub bolts at 214 if I recall correctly here. So there is a minor visual gap difference but I’d expect that with the difference in torque spec. 

    The tips are running an extremely fine line, so we don’t think it’s on the install, but we can/will double check. I still think it’s related to the wind milling on descent at full idle, especially since it runs very smooth under all other power settings, climb, cruise, etc. 

    A bit of a head scratcher alright and we just finished an engine mount inspection. Less than 30 hrs on the bucks and no sign of any cracks, loose bolts. 

    Thanks again, Willy T.


  4. Hello, 

    Just installed a new shiny and beautifully crafted NR Propeller on a Kitfox 4-1200 powered by a Rotax 912 UL. It replaced a 72” 3 blade tapered Warp Drive. There has always been even with the WDP a bit of vibration on full idle especially at short final with the engine completely unloaded and the “wind milling” Propeller apparently driving (leading?) the engine. Now this has been drastically aggravated with the 2 blade NR. 

    Is anybody out there experiencing the same thing or a similar issue at final approach at full idle? The vibrations seem to increase proportionally with airspeed at full idle rpm. No issues once you add  a little power and load up the prop and engine. 


  5. Hello everyone, 

    A friend of mine is upgrading his Citabria from the 0-235 to an 0-320 and has offered me his engine at a reasonable cost. Therefore Nellie's Subie (BushCaddy R80) is available and it includes everything, ..just about. The engine has 30TT on it as of today and this will keep going up since I will be flying it until sold. Fuel consumption is about 3.5gal @ 4200 to 4500rpm cruise. If someone wants to fly it with me in my BushCaddy you are more than welcome to do so. If you want to see and hear it fly right now - click the links below.  

     

    Anyhow, here is a short list of some of the goods; 

    Weber 32/36 Carburator, Johnson 2.1 to 1 Reduction , 3 bladed Ivo 68" Propeller, Engine Gauges (white faced), Engine Mount, Muffler, Manuals, spare parts kit. Basically everything firewall forward - Engine can be crated (at your cost) and prepared for shipping if so desired. Asking 2,750.- CDN 

    For questions please reply within and serious inquiries/offers can be directed to one 2five0 seven0six 9four9six

    1 person likes this

  6. Hello everyone, 

    Well we finally melted out of the snowbank and are appreciating some warmer temps in the Cariboo Country. Winter is nothing but a faint memory and the skis have been replaced with the Tundra's. Here is a few clips of Willis flying the "Frozen Nose Fat Bastard" or as we now refer to it, the "Screamin Demon" on skis. The RX has performed well (outperformed the rest shall we say!!). Nothing fancy on the editing, I left the sound in original to give a better idea. 

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1wamjY_-AE 

     

    3 people like this

  7. Just a quick little update here on the upgrades. 10+ hours of fine ski flying was to be had with not a single issue. The belt never moved, the bolts are all tight, it starts and runs better than it ever did with the Rotec TBI. Still a touch on the lean side, but that can be solved with a jetting change. My 68" IVO might be a tad short and in due time there might be an upgrade to a new prop. Or maybe even better, total upgrade firewall forward now that Teal is getting close with his new drive system. 

    LangLkBushCaddyCrop.jpg

    1 person likes this

  8. Congratulations! One should really place this piece of fine art on pedestal in the Smithsonian for the many to see. But even better will be the enjoyment of the few lofting them to cool places even though it is hidden under an aircraft cowling. Having had a chance to fly Willis' Fat Avid with the 1.O RX conversion I can't wait to see what 2.0 brings. Looks like it's about time to bring an end to my Subie days here and start thinking heart transplant for Nellie!  

    1 person likes this

  9. Hello everyone, 

    Took on this project about 2 years ago and all I got done is to overhaul the top end of the 503 I was going to use in it. Just too busy and time to clean out the shop. Could be crated (for cost) and shipped if so desired. More info available here or you can reply via the forum. Funds are in CAD. Serious inquiries only please! 


  10. Hi Randy, Avidfoxflyers,

    It is back in the air and its been almost too flawless, ...makes you wonder what's next? Rolled in about 5 hours thus far and lets just say every upgrade done is a positive. Changed the Rotec TBI to a Weber 34/36 and solved starting and flooding issues. Engine runs just the same and no change in power or fuel consumption is noticeable. If there is any, it seems to have a bit more pizazz overall, quicker response maybe. 

    The Johnson Redrive was completely disassembled, remachined and new bearing put in place. There was numerous issues, biggest one was the crinkle paint powder coating that would allow washers, bolt heads, to wear into the paint and loose torque specification. furthermore the box structure was not true and hence the bearing/shaft alignment was in a slight V - speak a few thou and we, the machinist and I, believe this might have been the trouble of the walking belt, the overheating of the rear bearing and pre-mature wear of the bottom shaft going into the bearing housing. Make a long story short the belt sits in place through all RPM's and loads and everything runs the way it should for once. 

    I have been around the Johnson Re-drives since the early 90's and recall that the plans version never called for any paint. They were straight aluminium and it was only the purchased drives that had the powder coating. If you have a powder coated drive and have similar issues, think we have a cure. But further testing is do be done. Forgot to mention that the starter bracket was also fixed and now has better clearance and alignment with the ring gear. Below photo with the spotting work done and during reassembly. 

    TrueShaft.thumb.jpg.8fcffa2ecdde2e8501f9

    Here is a photo of "Nellie" with Willis' (Marshawk) Yamaha RX powered Fat Avid in the background. About the only time I've ever been a nose ahead since he converted to the new engine :-)) 

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    2 people like this

  11. Thanks Randy, ..it can only fight me for so long! There is definitely some machining and tolerance issue's on my drive. While minor and nearly undetectable by the common builder/non machinist it was just ever so enough to cause these problems. Hope we have the "run-out" issues corrected and it will be smooth turning from here on forward. Just waiting for the lakes to freeze up around here to provide some additional runway lenghts and option for those first "check frights" with all the new parts. Stay tuned, pictures to follow of some of the work and issues corrected.  

    1 person likes this

  12. Hello everyone, 

    Just a quick heads up that while flying with a student yesterday in his PA-17 powered by a C-85 I had a partial engine failure in the circuit. We were working on runway changes so at time of the failure a bit further out on downwind as usual and unable to return to the pavement, safety concerns with houses, power lines, highways etc. 

    Anyhow, as I showed him once more pre-landing power reduction by pulling carb heat prior to throttle reduction the engine nearly died. Also the carb heat cable came out slightly further as it used to. I immediately pushed the nose down a bit, pushed the carb heat back in - no change 500 - 700 rpm rough at best. Reduce speed to best glide, look out below, check fuel, 3/4 tank, fuel valve on, bla bla bla ..while slowly sinking towards unfriendly terrain below. At this point I started cycling the engine and after several cycles it seemed to stabilize at about 1900 - 2000 rpm, ..time to look for a landing site, open terrain below and possibly nurse it back to the airport. No luck, can't maintain altitude so out over a small valley we go to get additional heights in the sinking game. It is also fairly open and has a few frozen ponds (barely frozen) in it that can be used as a last resort scenario. But no power lines, roads, houses, and if needed a bit of room to select the best bad place there is, since there really is no good ones. 

    Knowing of an old airstrip in the area and realizing that going back to CZML was a no go we decided to use the old field. It has some fairly tall trees at the approach and a new fence (hard to see near dusk) about 1/3 down, ..never mind its all we got. Over the trees we go, lean it over into a nice slip towards the fence, level off, flare, touch down, roll out, full brakes, watch the ditch, big rock, bull wallows and and we come to halt, ..best of all right side up and not a scratch on the plane. 

    After shut down and inspection I put my fingers up the hot air bleed hole of the box and immediately could feel the butterfly valve laying on the bottom of the box. Upon removing the filter it was rather obvious that some really poor workmanship was to blame and a secondary, possible 3rd repair and brazing failed - see photos. It partially occluded the intake and reduced the amount of air needed for the engine to run properly.

    So if anyone is using an old carb heat box, they are now 60 years old, things fail, don't be afraid to check it good on your next annual. Look at the welds!! Anytime you pull that filter, give that Butterfly Valve a good hands on wiggle, not just a visual. Ideally spend a couple hundred bucks for a new one and get a peace of mind with it.  And also, anyone telling you that certified engines are better than your Rotax, Subaru or Yamaha, because they never fail, ..I beg to differ. Certified Aircraft engines have problems too and I could go on for some time listing issues here. But the point here is, that a look is good, a hands on wiggle better and new box ideal. So for all those on this forum or maybe your friends that are bombing around with an old C-65, 75, 85, 90 you name it, ..maybe check that old airbox and the welds. Was a first for us, but there is lots of them out there. Stay safe! 

    PA17-Carbheatbox.jpg

    PA17-brkn butterfly.jpg

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  13. REALLY?! I've been following this threat with great interest as I had the opportunity to see Willis' (Marshawk) Yamaha Conversion come to life with Teal's help. I don't have a re-drive or Yamaha yet, ..but don't think it will ever be bearing a Mohawk sticker.  Just my .02 cents! ;-) 

    1 person likes this

  14. Thanks EDMO, it is actually good input as it leads to yet another discussion and thats on the benefit of the lower bearing. My first ever Johnson re-drive built from plans and parts also did not have the lower bearing, nor did several other belt drive systems such as Stratus or even Raven if I remember correctly. The biggest problem for me is the paint job, looks good but really bugs me for tolerance and ability to trust the torque settings over time. Next, and I will have to check that yet, is to micrometer the Subaru Crankshaft Flange and possible "runout" into the shaft end inside the front bearing. Let's just say that the tolerances used in the machining of the drive (way back when, 80's, 90's) are not quite CNC and what one might expect of being made today. And it's experimental and there should be a certain expectation that it will work but might need some fine tuning. And there is the fact they were built as a one of at the time and there is installation variations from builder to builder no doubt. Anyhow front the shaft has been sleeved, going to post some photos next time and hopefully some more info on the runout issue if there is any. 

    Thanks again EDMO, ...hang in there! With best wishes, 


  15. How many guys who read this forum are flying a EA81 with a Dave Johnson "Reductions" drive and what is your experience with it? Seems like mine has a few machining issues which showed up in pre-mature wear (14hrs TTE) on the lower shaft - Front Crank Bearing. My lower front plate (housing) had a hump left from cutting/milling and it loaded the lower front bearing/shaft. I'm getting my plate milled and the shaft having a steel sleeve/collar placed where it slides into the bearing as the 6061T6 is simply to soft it seems to take the load. Notice the space in the enclosed photos below. While it all fit on assembly, the bottom plate was a tight fit and I believe it caused a minor misalignment of the shaft and initiated the wear. As I understand from other forums and users of the Johnson Drive, I'm not alone in this. Hence my question here!

    Not looking for keyboard opinions but solid EA81 user/flyer feedback! Thanks, Willy T.  

    Hump.jpg

    Front Plate.jpg


  16. Couple of photos from the new manifold, Holley-Weber Carb and Carb heat system. Working with a manual choke and only needing 2psi initial start ups were absolutely the easiest ever and the engine ran smooth. Thus far I adjusted only the idle set screw and I have done several more starts and short runs. No flights yet, since my Johnson Re-Drive is not happy, ..therefore I'm not happy.  Getting noise (stethoscope) from all three bearings and a severe clicking by hand-pulling the prop from the rear main bearing. More to follow. 

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  17. Regular hardware store bungee cord is not advised as it is simply too flexible. Bungee's ie. shock cords comes in all different patches, sizes, flex, you name it and sourcing it consistently is at time a bit of a task. I fully agree with using Aircraft Spruce as a trusted supplier or you can sweet talk the good folks at Kitfox and order a set for your Kitfox4-1200  ;-) or 5 project. Just to show you that this is not an uncommon issue here is a somewhat dated PDF. I'm sure Avid in its days went through similar problems. And these problems still exist today but as "Red Green" would say, ..remember, we're all in this together! 

    http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/images/serviceletters/SL-20.pdf

     


  18. hey everyone 

    between the two Subaru EA81 aircraft engines I have, the one I decided on using didn't have a thermostat housing so I'm robbing the one off the other but would eventually like to replace it with the same one. Does anyone know where I can get this? It's 1" in and out and 3/4" bypass. 

     

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    Try www.ipsco.org  you might find something suitable there. 


  19. Looks like I'm in the market for a 82 Subaru E81 head.  My exhaust manifold (where the pipe connects) is close to unusable.  An A&P tells me it 'might' be OK for awhile, but probably not for long.  I'd rather replace the head than take a chance on the piece giving way halfway to wherever.  So, if anyone had a left head for sale or know of one, please let me know.  I've emailed Zodiac to see if they have parts for sale, but haven't heard from them yet. 

    ..let me check with Willis (Marshawk) but I think there might be one around if you cant find anything closer. 


  20. Thanks EDMO, got the block organized and the problem with the car intake filter housings it their size. Just don't want to re-invent the wheel here if someone has already a good and working set up. 

    TJay, I (we, Marshawk included) had some issues with the regulator needle valve and seat where fuel would bypass and drown/fuel lock the engine. The newer version has gone to a flat and grooved O-ring vs the older conical/floating O-ring style. Part of this problem was a (new) worn leaking main fuel shut off valve. I've been back and forth with Paul at Rotec on this matter and finally pulled it off to be shipped out for a service/upgrade in Australia. Customs decided they liked it and are still hangin on to it after 6 weeks. I like the TBI but it will not go back onto my Subie.  It will most likely end up on the Corvair, ..if it ever gets back that is. When those TBI's are tuned right they do run great, but make  sure you have the latest or upgraded version. And if you ship anything to the land of AUS make sure the value declared is under 1000.- At this point I'm in the wait and see mode here and even if it comes back I'm not quite ready to give up on it yet. Maybe I'm just to stubborn :-) 

    Despite what you might read about Rotec, my experience with them has been very good. 


  21. I can certainly attest to the fact that the EA81 Subaru will produce Carb Ice with a Rotec TBI 40 even given the stock water-cooled (heated) manifold. And YES there is a longer story to this but that one might need to go into the Dumb File folder in time. 

    My general feeling, ..if hasn't yet, it doesn't mean it never will. :huh:


  22. Hi Gunderson, 

    I am looking for a plate for the Ridge Runner 3 and think yours might be a close fit. However, measuring my engine mount holes C->C I get 6"7/8 and 8"7/8 respectively. And I need to take a look at the starter configuration on the 503. I'll get back to you, if it looks like its the one.