So can you hold full power on a runnup or will the plane creep away?do they feel spongy beyond typical flexing in the rudder bars and pedals themselves? If you have air trapped somewhere they won't work for nothing no matter what you do. And it can be dam tough to get rid of it sometimes. Do you have vg's on the tail as well? Horizontal stabilizer underside just in front of the hinge point?
What I remember from flight training was 60deg angle of bank expect the stall speed to increase 40 percent over what it was straight forward stall. At 75 deg. it was 100 percent increase in stall speed. 45 deg. is 18%
Ya know just to see if it could maybe be done I went to work and designed a mixer for my avid that should produce like 2.7 to 1 differential and still allow the wings to fold without disconnecting the controls.... Everything works.... on paper. Just a matter of getting ambition up and building the components and seeing it if actually works on a physical plane. And that is the reality. Don't have the time and ambition to tackle it. Would take a lot of time or money or both probably. Just not in the mindset to do it. Then there is also the question of how much up travel on the alerion is structurally acceptable. My plane fly's without it. for now.
Well the trick is to get the activation shaft of the master cylinder as close to the back of the rudder pedal as you can to get max leverage potential. You have a bit of room there to work with. You can tip or cant the tops of the brake pedals a bit further towards the pilot if you are comfortable with how that works for you physically or you can cut the tabs mounting tabs off the brake pedals and weld new ones on where they need to be, put the tops of the brake pedals where you personally like them to make everything work to your personal preference and get the most leverage you can. One thing to try and avoid in any mod is getting a condition known as an over center where the master cylinder actually starts to rotate back towards the redder pedal as opposed to away, where the system then has potential to act like a vise grip and lock itself up.
http://www.avidfoxflyers.com/index.php?/topic/530-go-kart-to-matco-brakes/&page=1 Hey Vance: I would suggest you read this thread to assist you in understanding what can be done and what to expect regarding the brakes you have and how they can be made to work within the limits/understandings of the physics that have been achieved.
I'll add this... I run my matco tail wheel with compression springs as I think most people are doing. and like the above video run them loose enough to keep any binding from interfering with the unlocking mechanism. I am also running with a light tension spring in the mix. running it inside the compression spring to keep the unlocking mechanism under a constant spring tension that will ensure the wheel stays locked until I want it unlocked. This is not something matco specifies but after reading in their literature that the mechanism is designed to release with light spring tension.... as well as addressing the reality that without constant spring tension it can come unlocked.... the obvious answer is to do the dual spring setup to accommodate the mechanism...On my last tail spring setup I got the compression springs for steering the tail wheel too tight and it won't release without some added horsing
Depending on how fussy you are about the appearance of the welds inside you could get a piece of non conductive carbon rod to fit perfectly inside of the pipe shell you are welding on and control exposure to oxygen and give any melt thru essentially no place to go. Coming up with a place to get a piece of carbon rod to fit exactly inside and completely compliment the radius will be a perhaps bigger challenge than it is worth.
I concur with Joey"s sentiment.. Don't fly this plane until you get a full understanding of what is creating this anomaly and rectify it. I would suspect some sort of in congruent deployment of the flaps when the flaps are in full position deployment. What is causing it if it is the problem I couldn't tell you.... At a keyboard it is just all speculation.
If it has what is described as a round kitfox type cowl, what you are probably looking at is that aftermarket cowl that Lee Dubay developed for the avids. Avid did offer it with their kits as an option for a while. Called it the Avid Avenger package.
One thing you could try is to get an after market windshield washer setup and install it into your plane and use it to spray water on the rads as required to control heating. i do have on installed on my model c with internal rad and use it from time to time on hot days in climb out.
In terms of desquirrelifying my own avid, I did these things. On my matco tail wheel I run compresson springs a bit loose with weight on the tail as well as then having a light thin tension spring run up the center of the compression spring to keep the steering arms under constant tension so the tail wheel can't come unlocked inadvertently. Pivot bolt geometry of the tail wheel can/will have an impact on the handling of the aircraft on landing and deceleration. Positive caster steers easier but is typically more squirrely than neutral or negative caster. Ran positive caster for a long time on my plane and because of it learned to land/ taxi using brakes only for directional control. For me the best rule of thumb became to use the brakes to steer the plane in a straight line, use the steerable tail wheel only when you need to turn the aircraft. The most important thing I did was rework the toe brakes on my plane so I could be confident I had full effective control in taxi and landing. Joey's thread Gocart to matco brakes covers that change up.