I ran the 2 air tubes down the rear wing spar tube into the wing tip area...
I mounted the probe to a flat 6"x2", .020 aluminum piece that I simplypunched hole in the bottom of the wing fabric and then used silicon to hold it to the fabric and side of the wing rib...the directions say to set the angle at about 50 degrees I think and that was pretty close. Go up to safe altitude and slow fly towards a stall and as you get close note where the needle is.. you want the needle right at the bottom of the red arc when it stalls..... then if you approach at the top of the red arc, you will be about 3 or 4 mph above stall speed... OK in dead calm wind if you want to approach this slow, most approach faster...
THe tach is dead nuts on. I used a tiny tach and optical tach with a reflector on face of prop blade and the tach is on the money..
The fuel flow is another issue.. I ordered the gold gravity transducer, WRONG, I got it dialed in and it reads proper now but quits reading below 3gph so I spent $259 and ordered the red transducer with a smaller metering hole and it reads right one with 100% K factor but I told Kevin to double check it that it might need tweaking a tiny bit... THe angle of attack indicator, I cold see where that could come in real handy for landing short... IF you putt the needle in the red about 2 lines from the the far left, it is a speed about 3mph above stall speed..... and it remains consistent, only thing is you are VERY slow and you can feel yourself letting the plane deep in the danger zone but I tried it a couple of times and that little silver KF could easily be a contender in a short field landing contest.....its just I have this string that runs from my wallet and is securely attached to my BALLS!!!!! so I fly buy the old mantra "Vref + 10 for mom and the kids"
MY mom had the same eye problem, macular in both eye,worse in the left exactly like me, pus cataracts.. .so I agreed to have the catarcats fixed, that will take a few months total but not much can be done for macular. I have been flhying using my right eye only for a few months now because my left eye sees double and is consantly blurry like eye drops are permently in it....never clears up.....
It is upsetting to me, Ive flown 50 years, I accidently taught my selt to fly in a t-craft when I got to taxing too fast and it got airborne but thats anothe story,... I can say I tried to drive it on the ground only to bounce off, finally I remember reading "how to fly a j-3" andit showed the position of the control stick during takeoff and landing so I tried to just level off and made anice landing immediately followed by wild gorund loop! it didnt hurt theplane, scared the hell out of me but I couldnt wait to learn to fly. I got up the toher day and just realized I had to face reality, my left eye is shot, maybe they can make it alittle betterr but odds are not in my favor and while I can fly with just my right eye its not easy and notmuch fun. I say to myself, "self, the jigs up" so without giving it too much thought I listed the KF4 on barnstormers and within a hour had over 20 calls from all over the country.... I listed it for 20K thinking thats fair.. I had 28K in it so thats what I like to do, buy high , sell low, pay no income tax!!!! I bet my add was the shortest listing on barnstormers ever... first called bought it within a few minutes of posting it....... I soon was told by others that the model 4 is the one everyone wants, it has all the improvement over the early KF and that is true, it flys so nice...It still hurts to think its gone, however, Kevin promised me we will all see it in future Trent videos!!!!!! so that would be wonderful
I listed my 2000 Kitfox Model IV on Barnstormers with a 160 total airframe time, 6 hrs on factory new 582, Garmin G-5, Aera 660, grove spring gear, matco wheel and brakes, 8" tailwheel $20,000
Within in 30 minutes of placing the add I had over 20 calls..... several wanted it sight unseen... Trents brother was the first to call... What the heck is going on??I was on barnstormers for a few minutes and the plane sold so I put "sale pending" but with so many who were willing to buy sight unseen??is there a shortage of model 4s out there or did I sell too cheap????I just picked a price, I have over 25K in it. The money is less important than making sure it ends up with someone who is on fire to fly.......hopefully he will stay out of trouble with the help of his brother til he gets some time in the plane then I suspect he will introduce dozens of people to flying and Trent will make the videos and we will all get to see it!! Thats what I hope for......like a super "young eagles program"
THe Garmin G-5 has an RS-232 input, only one wire from the Aera 660 to the G-5. SO if I have an active waypoint I am going to , the G-5 and change to HSI page and the pointer appears showing the direction of the way point. STill shows compass heading and ground track as well. Its the hot set up... Add 2 servos and an autopilot controler and you have an autopilot, just sit back adn relax and watch the scenery go buy..
The LRI is a fantastic instrument, simple and it works. It uses air pressure but it is fool proof.. I got the last one the guy made. I beggedhim so he made me on, I could make it myself but his quality is so much better...... Fred in France made it own and it works fine....by placing it on top the dack I can see it while landing and after parctcing up at altitude, you can watch the needle get in the red on landing and know you are 1, 2 or 5 mph about stalling angle and weight makes no difference, nor density altitude.... it is a great instrument..... My vision problems came on suddenly like within 3 weeks so more test but I am pretty sure Im screwed. both parents had MD and I have the highest uncontrolled BP of the family so the jigs up... I havent given up, just I realize I might as well stick a fork in myselft because Im done!!!!
I sold my kitfox N503TJ to Trents brother, "sale pending" but Im sure he will buy it.. I tossed in my spare Aerolux prop and 2 engine mounts and all the spares I have... WHy? Im only 66 but have been fighting high BP for years and the docs in ALaska said OH dont worry bout it, thats normal for your age......(BS!) IT typically run 180/100 for years.... once I moved to Washington and got a new doc( A German doc) he flipped out at the high BP and said I could have a stroke or heart attack any moment....that set me back on my heels.. we tried different meds and got the systolic down to around 140 but the Distolic will not come down... he oreded ultrasound and my heart muscle wall has thickened up and become stiff so it probably never will go below 90 luntil I go toes up even on meds.... But I digress, so I have high BP , big deal, well it is.. now my eyes are going.. macular brought on by high bp, cataracts that I can get replaced but macular they cant do anything about....mine is medium fast progression so I decided to quit flying... I have a hard time driving at night, see 6 head lights so aim for the middle!! ANyway Trent Palmer does lots of videos and is the best advertising agent for kitfox there is.....so maybe we will ole 503TJ in future videos...... Me, next year Im trying to New ZEaland for a few months, the Bali for a few months then come back here and sell out....
I wrapped the muffler can and hot air outlet hose nd the inlet stack with HD tin foil and used safety wire to secure it.... I will probably remove the tin foil this summer when it warms up....but every little bit make a difference...
Thank Lenni.... I still have trouble with video stuff... Yup thats it.... The heater works great... IF I did anything to improve, Id take the fibreglass stove door seal material and make a spiral around the muffler can and force the air to swirl around muffler to get a little more heat.. .On climbe the heater air was hot, on cruise, it cools some but lots of airpressure in that cowl so that was part of it.. all in all it made it warmer in the cockpit... even though a lot of the air is blasting under the seat on my side,,,,so I need to seal up the area under the seat a little bit.....THe AOA is a neat little gadget, not sure how much or if Ill use it as I have a very accurate AS indicator and this plane that TOm built is very predictable and a true joy to fly.....IT does perform better with my 72" Aerolux prop, shorter takeoff, faster climb and faster cruise and WAY WAY smoother prop.. most 2 blades are rough running but not the Aerolux
I installed hot air muffler cabin heat, works great, LRI (AOA) on top dash, Garmin G-5 tied to my Garmin Aera 660 for navigation, electric carb heaters (for carb anti ice), electric fuel pump, and LED mav lights. PUt my old Warp drive 3 blade 68" prop back on, my 2 blade is faster in cruise, and almost identical in climb..about 1000 fpm at 60mph
Ideally you want the tail spring to take the shock loads. That is why I never was a big proponent of installing stiffer tail springs on Super Cubs. Those that did ended up putting more stress on the tubes in the tail area and eventually something would bend or crack..... IN the case of the Avid, maybe someone dropped the tail in the past or got it to crow hopping on the runway or ran the tail thru a ditch, who knows... the poor tail wheel takes a beating... solid rubber tailwheels add more stress, pneumatic tail wheel tires take up some shock..... I wouldnt be worried about it Vance, it is just a light weight structure but is you beef it up just a little, it will put the stresses back on the tail spring which is what you want... About the only tubing primer I ever saw that could stand up to MEK based fabric coating systems was stits epoxy tubing primer, (green). There might be others out there but I know Stits works, spendy but works...
Weld in two tube ,about 3/8" or 7/16" OD from the center of the bend in the vertical fin post to the center of the lower longeron bays. THis will stiffen it a little bit. Ive seen the same thing super cubs in Alaska and that is how we fixed it....YOu dont need large tubes, just small one to add a little strength in the middle of the long spans... If you tig weld, have a spotter with fire extinguisher in case you catch the adjacent fabric on fire.... Gas welding is easier for me but what ever you are comfortable with. GLue on a patch with poly tak, let it dry, shrink it , apply the primer coat(poly brush) and the silver (poly spray ) and top coat and your done! OR what ever coating system you use. If the old fabric has enamel, try to clean it off with MEK so you can get a good glue bond with the poly tak...
Its not the lift strut rod end I am concerned about. It is the welded in stud that the FEMALE rod end attachs to. This is on some of the early model 4 kitfoxes. I see the factory change and started using a MALE rod end that threads into the end of the lift strut. The earlier style is the one that worries me. It has CUT threads placed under tension....not good. THis silver strut has a stud welded into the strut end and a FEMALE rod end threads onto it....The threads are CUT threads...The aviation industry learned all about cut threads on Piper lift strut forks when Univair made replace forks with cut threads. Even the rolled piper threads failed after so many cycles and hours so finally Piper came out with a lift strut that had a really large diamer HD strut fork that does not have a life..... The WHite lift strut in the photo below is a later model Kitfox strut. Note the end of the strut is drilled and threaded to accept a MALE rod end.... This is better but I think I will design some kind of secondary load path for th strut attach point.... Probably a flat strap that picks up on the lift strut wing fitting and then is riveted to the lift strut tube with 4 or 5 steel high shear cherry max rivets. WHen new and tested even the cut threads will hold a lot, but they are WAY more suspetable to fatique crack(the cut thread already has a built in stress riser), add to that flight cycles, people pushing on the struts and you are asking for trouble.... The way Avid and early kit fox struts were built is the way to to go. Put the attach bolt in shear. The CAA accident aircraft C-FOLD (theres a good N number!!!) shows a threaded strut end fitting that failed and they think it failed on take off. WHo know the history.. was it in a previous accident? How old is it? Was it rusted? Anyway according to he accident report the aircraft lifted off and a loud crack was heard followed by an uncommanded roll to the left...... it was the left rear lift strut attack threaded part that failed.... The plane crashed and was BER...
I will say that AVIDs do have what seem to me to be a stronger wing attach fitting
by eliminating the rod end.
Kitfox used rod ends I think to compensate for variances in build tolerances but
I don't think it anything to worry about. I would check with John McBean
to find out the exact procedure of what you are asking.
You only need one thread to fail ,so no matter how far it screwed in the rod end
the one that will fail will be out side of it . Does anyone know the actual
shear strength of the threaded part of the wing strut attach point ? I would
bet each of the 4 attach points are 4000 to 6000 pound tensile and we fly
at 1200 or so lbs divided by 4 = 300 each ? MAke sense ? If I am correct
that means at 10 gs you are pulling 3000 pound force and I guarantee you that
you won't see 10gs. I am done talking outta my ass now.
> I would think a connection that important, and under that much stress would
have all the bolts in sheer, not tension. If those 8 or ten threads fail, your
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
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From:"fox5flyer" <fox5flyer(at)idealwifi.net>Subject:Attachment fitting at top of lift struts.Date:Oct 19, 2007One thing that needs to be remembered is that AN fittings have "rolled" threads, not cut threads. This makes them much stronger than the normal non-AN threaded fitting and much less susceptible to stress cracking at the threads. Personally, if there was anything to worry about I believe it would be the fittings at the horizontal stab where there is a history of breakage in the IV. For what it's worth. Deke S5, NE Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________ Subject:Re: Attachment fitting at top of lift struts.From:"dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>Date:Oct 19, 2007> I believe it > would be the fittings at the horizontal stab where there is a history of > breakage in the IV. > I think that perhaps the breakages was due to rough ground handling using the horiz.stab braces for handle rather than using the Fuselage handle. Would this be the likely culprit ? He have rolled thread on the strut atttach point? SO what is the tensile of them and the rod ends ? -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada Flying Videos and Kitfox Info http://www.cfisher.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140728#140728 ________________________________________________________________________________ From:"Ken Harrison" <kenharrison(at)comporium.net>Subject:Re: Attachment fitting at top of lift struts.Date:Oct 19, 2007OK, that makes sense. Except I wonder if one of the lurking engineers on the list could calculate the in-flight load on one of those fittings. Because I think you have to account for the fact that the strut is not attached to the wing at 90 degrees. The in-flight vertical load per fitting is 300 pounds, but the strut is at about 60 degrees from vertical (or more, I didn't actually measure it). Just for example, if the strut were at 45 degrees to the vertical, and had a 300 pound vertical load from the wing, the tension felt by the strut would be 600 pounds, and 600 pounds of compression felt by the inboard wing spar. (Now I'm showing my ignorance.) Is that how it would work? The same as the vertical and horizontal components of lift felt by a wing in turning flight? Anyway, I think I'm just worrying for no reason. It sounds like the connection is plenty strong. I'll go back to worrying about ground-looping. Thanks for the info. -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:51 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Attachment fitting at top of lift struts. Ken, I think you will find that there to my knowledge has ever been a inflight breakup of a Kitfox from the wing strut attach fitting. I think the testing showed in excess of +14G and still no failure. But I stand to be corrected. I will say that AVIDs do have what seem to me to be a stronger wing attach fitting by eliminating the rod end. Kitfox used rod ends I think to compensate for variances in build tolerances but I don't think it anything to worry about. I would check with John McBean to find out the exact procedure of what you are asking. You only need one thread to fail ,so no matter how far it screwed in the rod end the one that will fail will be out side of it . Does anyone know the actual shear strength of the threaded part of the wing strut attach point ? I would bet each of the 4 attach points are 4000 to 6000 pound tensile and we fly at 1200 or so lbs divided by 4 = 300 each ? MAke sense ? If I am correct that means at 10 gs you are pulling 3000 pound force and I guarantee you that you won't see 10gs. I am done talking outta my ass now. > I would think a connection that important, and under that much stress would have all the bolts in sheer, not tension. If those 8 or ten threads fail, your cooked. > > -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada Flying Videos and Kitfox Info http://www.cfisher.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140724#140724