Your a tough SOB Ed! I remeber you've been through a lot in this life, but maybe that was all special training for this big fight right now. This one's been extra tough but I'm not worried! See ya back here soon!
The one simple tip I've got for ya (after a couple ground loops of my own early on) is to chant in your head "go around... go around.... go around" as you come down to touchdown. If it doesn't setlle on just right... or if it gets the tiniest bit squirreley on rolllout, put some power in (bringing the tail back to life) and go around. With that in my head (cocked and loaded to go around) I haven't had any further stories to tell... but I have gone around plenty of times!
Thanks for the thanks! I'm just glad if I can help other people out (half as much) as I have been helped along in this project! That R1 box has only been used by one other AFAIK. That is "Yooper Ed" here in the group, but he doesn't frequent the forum often. According to him, it merely required a jetting change (he drilled out his main jets to about 180 size) and he says it runs great. His info is why I chose the R1 box but if you have room you that snowmo airbox will work great as well. But as far as the jetting / tune, no matter which airbox you choose, you will have some fine tuning to do and really should run an AFR guage to get precise jetting for your particular setup since it seems each plane runs just a titch different due to ram air effects and exhaust system differences. Just be sure you dont run avgas on the AFR's O2 sensor! Hey, start up a new post with your motor project! I'm really looking forward to seeing it come together!!
CRANKCASE BREATHER: The crank breather is labeled in the bottom pic here and it this is connected with a hose to an oil "trap" (top pic) and then typically routed into the airbox, but some people have reported just running it to a negative pressure location (non ram air location) with a filter at the end of the breather hose.
COOLING SYSTEM ROUTING: Reference the pics below of the cooling system components where each port is labeled. (NOTE: Pics are of an RX-1. As I understand, the APEX should be the same except it would not have C1,C2, or H2 connections.) The matching connections are listed here: H2 goes to C1 H1 to 10 X2 to 14 X1 to J I to the engine block below the headers H is cold feed from radiator 13 "T's" into that cold radiator line connecing to H (13 is a cold engine bypass route (bypassing radiator) when t-stat is closed, see hand drawn diagram below) 11 is Hot outlet off expansion tank (white tank in my pic) which goes to hot side radiator. C2 to K B1 to L 12 is unused, and can either be capped off or drilled out and tapped to 1/8 NPT for a coolant temp sender (note that aluminum is thin for tapping, so take caution if you choose to thread it)
My throttle cable "cylinder " hole will get drilled through other half after welding (pic below). Also the spring in pic above is obviously there to balance out the throttle return spring on the carbs / throttle bodies. I got one at ACE hardware that was strong enough to naturally pull to about 3/4 throttle, which under some failure scenarios would leave me with some thrust in the air.
THROTTLE REVERSER: Since the yamaha snowmobiles use a "pull" throttle, there is a need to reverse that to a "push" for aircraft use just like the 2 stroke Rotaxes. Yet another big thanks to Steve Henry for sharing his ingenuity. This time on his panel mount throttle reverser. Steve also sells these at a very reasonable price. When I counted my time, welding, and materials, I was none ahead in doing this myself, but was itching to work in the shop today and knocked this out. Pic with tape measurer is the one steve shared, other is my copy ready to send to the welder who will cut my throttle control hole and tig up 3 places. And YEAH, my "rivet in pivot" is temporary!