Entirely classroom with some props. No getting dirty unless you spill lunch on yourself. Very remedial is a good description but as I said earlier, Brian and Carol made it a bit better than just getting the paper - though that's the main thing.
Doug, ~12 years ago did the course for weight shift control. Last year I stayed after at Oshkosh for the fixed wing airplane version so I could get the certificate for my Avid. This time from Brian and Carol Carpenter/Rainbow Aviation, guessing same folks for you?. I got more out of it than I expected, Brian and Carol did a great job. I don't recall the balance other than a fair bit of time on the regs as some have a hard time getting it. Don't worry about prior knowledge, you'll do fine from what I've seen on the list. You'll be bored at times but it works out okay.
I'll try to get some pics after work tomorrow night. This is a Matco unit, you might give them a call, probably can buy complete for less money and the engineering is done. I don't know for sure if the spring section is solid or hollow, guessing solid, steel but unknown alloy.
You should be able to purchase an RV6A assembly (the one of your pics with the unfinished wheel pant). That's what I have on mine (including Avid drawings for same). I'm planning on taking mine off later this year to install Grove taildragger gear I purchased. Thought about selling it but I'm kinda thinking of hanging on to it as a boost should I sell in the future when the Bearhawk is done. Although I'm really falling in love with this bird. Thinking about the possibility of the enclosed trailer route for retirement ( or pre-retirement) travels...
As Ed mentioned, it also provides stabilizing compared to the original style Avid nose gear as it puts the wheel farther forward.
Free floating would be good, unfortunately with the original fiberglass tanks cracks can develop from the stresses even without ethanol. :o( I like the idea of rotomolded, not sure how much weight gain there would be though.
Without crunching any numbers, you have A drawn in at 45* to horizontal. Any upward wheel movement would be greater than outward movement from that point up, very close at that point. Were you thinking 4" spread between the two wheels? Only 2" upward movement before spring bottoming would be of great concern to me. Better buy bushwheels and keep the pressure low. ;o)
True about some balking at the certifying that no issues could ever cause an incident, I wouldn't sign it. But my GP didn't have a problem with it. I brought in the tentative version before it became law for his review. The next year I scheduled an eye exam two weeks before my physical, brought the FAA paperwork for the eye doc so he could specifically address the FAA points of concern. He documented same so their was no issue for the GP that is not prepared for eye exams. GP was glad. You do the online course after the physical.
Maybe... it depends on how it is wired. Most cars for instance, will only tell you the amount of current going into or from the battery. The devices that are running will not register. I've seen airplanes with the ampere gauges wired like flywise says and I've seen them like most cars have. As Chris stated, one really needs to have a schematic to know what it should be reading. But it definitely should be reading. :-)
Just wondering, is there an established track record of using the kitchen sink sprayer hose in this application? Just wondering about compatibility issues, wouldn't want to see it break down, get hard, crack... Seems like it would be a good solution if compatible.
Craig Catto was giving a presentation at Oshkosh focusing on analytical details/results on the subtleties of propeller design. I asked the question about spinner vs no spinner vs skull cap for my Bearhawk (designed for slow end of spectrum with 0-320). He said there would be absolutely no measurable difference whatsoever between the options.