C models had wing tank(s), no fuse tank. They also featured the offset fin, discontinued on the Mark IV. Really silly if your prop is right-turning! Kind of silly period, as P-factor varies with AoA and forward speed, and there's plenty of yaw authority.
Say, Manu, Have you had a chance to fly, and assess the adequacy of your add-on trimtab? If so, and you think deflections for landing trim are not excessive, I am keen to do something similar. My bird is a bit nose-heavy, so that's why I'm concerned. Thanks.
Without mode-C you can go under the shelf of Charlie airspace, but for Bravo airspace, won't the mode-C veil contine, but with adds-B (after July, 2020)? And oh yes, overflight of Charley airspace will require adds-B after the change; it requires mode-C now.
Man, with tri gear what's the concern? If you're current, are sure of the bird's condition, and understand issues related to flying behind a 2-stroke, you're good to go. Getting insurance with 0 hrs in type could be problematic. On mine, with tailwheel, & me with fresh TD endorsement, I just studied up, then went solo. Just know your bird, airspeeds, egt temps, etc. Just my two cents.
It's typically not the bungees you need to be worried about; their load on that inner span of the seat truss is distributed, at least go some extent. It's that damn safety cable, which, when in play, shows up as a concentrated shock load, pulling the top wall of the seat tube down, essentially crimping it! A wood insert would prevent the tube bending down, but may not protect against the upper wall of the hollow tube being crimped. My analysis recommends that if you choose to keep the safety cable (I didn't), size it to allow 5" of travel before it comes into play. That's a 3G landing. Fred Stork (see posts) offers an alternative approach to limiting gear deflection, that's worth considering. Nylon webbing might also be considered as the safety straps. But in my opinion, the original safety cables suck!
My advice is to make sure you replace bungees with the mil type-1 bungees from Aircraft Spuce & Specialty. 3/8" dia is really 0.41", and it's almost 3Xas stiff as the hardware store variety! Check travel allowed by safety cables; I advocate 5". On my Model C it was 2.5", and I bent my seat tube in a hard landing! There are posts on re-doing the bungees. It's a bitch without first making an installation tool. Filling in the critical seat-truss triangle with wood or something to make it more crush-proof is valuable. Study up on flying behind a 2-stroke - it's different! Welcome, and good luck!
My read on the toe-in / toe-out question is that parallel wheels is best. A priori I thought toe-in made sense, but it's all about the careening/lumbering oscillation you can find yourself in, which toe-in exacerbates. Long piece of iron pipe fit over axle, then attached to fuselage tail via come-along seems preferred way to undo toe-in, but be careful. Don't want to overdo it.
Get comfortable with fast taxiing. Work your way up to it. I needed to tighten up the rudder-to-tailwheel connection in order to have a controllable fast taxi. If you have uneven springs on the tailwheel connection, it's intended to help reduce shimmy, but the stiffer spring needs to be on the side of the downward-moving blade, or you may have uneven steering authority when moving forward, and P-factor is in effect. The just-post-touchdown phase is the scariest, and that's why I advocate getting comfortable with fast taxi. In the air, it's just another airplane! Good luck!
Hey Leni, Sho 'nuff, the check I snail-mailed to you on Jan 11 never got cashed. Maybe was part of your lost/stolen mail. Will re-send. Greatly appreciate what you have created for us. I have learned so much about our unique little birds from the site. Tons of know-how, and a great crew! Can't wait till spring to try out all the new mods! Since my bird lives in the garage, 25 miles from the airport, the days are too short for flying now anyway! Launching the bird takes time.