Fred, I did not notice that "strip". Sounds like a lower-altitude pass is in order. Orientation to wind looks correct. However, when I blew up the pic on my tablet, it did not look like an airstip. The aeronautical chart shows no airstrip there.
Great Idea,Vance! Do I hear the rumblings of a NW fly-in? Wouldn't it be great to put faces to the names, and get to know the many Avid fliers in our area! Not to mention getting in-flight pix of our birds! I see, flying with THE MACHINIST you got some great pix of your beautiful bird!
Hi Guys. Just thought i'd post a few pix from my home stomping grounds - the Columbia River Gorge. My Avid C, N23PB, is in good health, and although she's a little on the plain side, she's got the magic. Got in about 1.2 hrs today 9/18/2018. Overflying a friend's house I thought I'd call him on the cell. Took off the headphones and YOW, it's way too noisy! Oh well. I'm getting about 80 mph indicated at 4500 rpm, low altitude. Not bad! - Turbo
Your wire wrap looks great, but may be twice as long as needed. Note that this type of bungee cord can stretch fully 100% of its original length. Slippage of the shock cord inside the wire wrap will occur if the cord is not stretched sufficiently when wrapped, since the long end will shrink in diameter when stretched. If stretched beyond the condition at which it was wrapped, it will slip, shrinking the eye. Fred double-wraps his ends; I think this is a good idea. I built a wooden gantry with 6:1 purchase using pullies, which allowed me to re-rig the bungees without help. I shied away from heat-shrink, and just used electrical tape.
Checking my flaps, I got a similar result. Made me wonder how to even get more than 15 degs flap deflection. Hey, congrats on getting your issues ironed out! Great pix, too! BTW, I am very close to putting the OI system in play. Gotta burn off 10+gallons of premix first! Again, thanks!
As Nlappos indicated, these Bing carburetors are not ideal for airplane use. I agree. My approach has been to rig an altitude compensation setup like the one Cowlove came up with, using reduced float-bowl pressure for leaning, then jet the carbs as if I were flying out of someplace near sea level. Well, actually I am, since the Columbia basin bottoms out just a little above S.L.. Having it set up as if you're flying out of an airport at sea level is important if you ever go into a field lower in density altitude than your home field, as you won't be running too lean on T/O and climbout. Cowlove's solution used a small, 12V diaphragm suction pump, hooked up to a 100 ohm, (5 watt) rheostat, sucking on all the float-bowl ports, and working opposite a drilled-hole "calibrated orifice", since, even at the roughly1/2 atmosphere vacuum that the pump can generate, it's way too much (like leaning for 18000 ft!). I'll see if I can find his explanation & pics. It's freakin' elegant! The suction pumps are apparently used for certain medical devices and are super cheap. Mine came from China and cost under $2.00! I have not flown my plane at altitude using the system yet, but Cowlove shows a panel pic of his Catalina at 13999 ft, indicating 60 mph, and 6000 rpm! If I lean too much at idle I can easily kill the engine, so I think I'm in the ballpark. The nice thing about leaning with float-bowl pressure is that it affects all 3 of the carb's circuits. The Arctic Sparrow leaning system, if I understand it correctly, would leave the Idle and main jets unaffected (and too rich) at altitude. Even with our planes' awesome T/O and climb performance, having the ability to lean for high density altitude takeoffs (and cruise) makes sense. Still - too lean means high EGT. Found Cowlove's post! It's under "Rotax and other engines"/"Leaning the carbs for altitude - on the cheap" . FWIW. Sorry if all this seems tangential. It's just that this business of setting up for one field elevation seems to me to be too limiting.
Vance, I'm bang in the middle of exactly what you're going thru. I could taxi slowly but once the speed built up It got too wobbly with my jerky pedal movements. I too am paying attention to the good tips in this thread you started. One thing that helped me was to take out the slack in the chains linking the tailwheel to the rudder, eliminating most of the delay that was causing. This allowed me to taxi faster with confidence, and certainly helps in that just-post-touchdown moment when you seemingly have sooo much speed. Maybe it's just me, but it seems the minimum idle speed is just a bit high, and the plane doesn't really want to slow down very fast. I am currently very carefully applying brakes - a bad habit, I know.
If you do much cruising at altitude, and running appropriately leaned, I would think you'd appreciate an oil flow driven by rpm & throttle position, & hence not leaned, over the leaned oil flow (along with fuel) with premix. Isn't there a seisure risk for under-lubricating a 2-stroke? I live in a high-moisture environment and am concerned that synthetic oil may not provide adequate rust protection. If you live in a dry environment, you could fix the OI lever at the 70:1 position, fill the oil tank with synthetic, and be able to tank up at any airport, without bothering with premix. And you'd have no cable to worry about!
Yeah, Jimchuk, I am skeered of full throttle! That 582 is a mighty little bugger! Maybe all this excess of oil will become a nonproblem once the OI system is back up? Or at least mitigated to some extent.
Thanks, John. Lots of sage advice there. My bird seems to get 80mph IAS on 4500 rpm, yet it doesn't seem so clean aerodynamically, although it is lightweight. Lower altitude (3k) maybe? I have no interest in VGs, as they also reduce maneuvering speed, along with stall speed. Will have to take a look at the thermostat. Engine seems quite healthy, but the carbs are the old variety with no drilling for venturi pressure, so I have relied on measurements of throat opening for balance. I'm sure if i could tune to equalize pressures I could do a better job of balancing them, and perhaps improve smoothness. It seems I need to use a spark plug wrench and paper towel to clean one or more plugs before it will start. Is there a work-around for this? - Art
I have heard it said that if the cable breaks you will burn up your engine. This is not necessarily so - with a small mod to the oil pump. There is an untapped 6 mm hole on the front side of the pump which could have been used to attach the banjo fitting for one of the OI lines in some installations, but in our case is not being used. Tapping that hole allows one to bolt on a small L-shaped piece of aluminum custom-bent to limit the downward travel of the cable-attach actuator arm to that corresponding to the second tick on its face, or the slack-cable position. This way the oil mixture ratio can't go below 70:1, even with a cable failure. This should allow at least part-power operation to get you down, and maybe even to the next airport.