LOW EGT's lead to plug fouling. Keeping the EGT's in the upper range will keep the plugs nice and happy. I am in the same camp of OI keeps the same amount of oil going into the engine when less fuel is going in is a good thing for 2 strokes. Basically what you are doing in "rejetting" the carbs at the higher altitudes such as we have done with snowmachines for eons. The only difference is, with the mixture control you don't have to stop on the side of a mountain, fumble around with half frozen gas soaked fingers dropping the jets in the bottom of the belly pan cursing up a storm just to keep your engine from blubbering and farting as your trying to go higher up in elevation. There have been attempts at the "automatic" systems in sleds but I never had much luck with them really working right. With the hac man system or for those of us lucky enough to have the Arctic Sparrow mixture control, it is a simple twist of the knob or knobs to keep the engine humming happily along and not popping snorting and belching as we soar along on the winds. Yes we ran premix on the sleds and didn't have an issue as long as you remembered to stop on the way down and swap to the fatter jets before you ripped across the low lands.
I am not sure, it is possible that the write up Randy did was on the forum prior to the crash we had that wiped out a bunch of posts. It seems to me that he used some sort of a glue or cleaner for conveyor belt repair then the bedliner to top coat and that gave the best results to keep it sticking to the tire. I may just be day dreaming too.
goo gone works well too and I have used it on my poly tone. Just don't work the area too hard or it will start getting into the paint. I sponged it on pretty heavy and let it sit then wiped it off. Works well if you let the product have time to do its job. A hair drier (not a heat gun unless your very careful) works well to soften it up a bit as well.
The "official repair" was for the kitfox and the rib tails on those are different from the avid a bit. I did a field repair on mine using a cap strip on each side some bamboo skewers and gorilla glue. It has held up so well that I never did anything else once I got it home other than a bit of sanding and then painted it. A lot depends on where it broke. The one in the OP pictures was right at the trialing edge of the wing. Mine broke more in the center of the hanger.
The suggestion is for tanks mounted below the pulse fuel pump. It is not a manufactures requirement, more of a suggestion. I guess I look at things a bit differently. What was the intent of the suggestion and how can I meet that intent. If you run a 4 PSI facet pump there is no way that the overpressure can occur therefore, the statement about overpressure is pretty much null and void, not to mention it does not apply to you to begin with as your tanks are well above the pulse pump
They say parallel to reduce chance of over pressure. Using the right facet pump your not going to over pressure it. Both pumps are designed to fail open. Many many people are running the pumps in series and have not had any issues. I know its has saved my butt more than once. I don't run with the pump on all the time. I will kick it on as a boost pump to prime the lines then turn it off to start the engine. In flight when lines or filters have become restricted it gave me just enough fuel flow to get on the ground safely. If you are running in parallel you will need check valves on both pumps to keep the fuel flowing to the carbs and not back flowing though the other pump. Series is really the easiest and best option in my mind.