Glad it turned out OK! One thing I have really noticed on these birds. One tends to slip just a tad one way or the other, or fly slightly wing low on one side. I use valves on each tank and keep them both on for take off and landing or when I am maneuvering at low altitudes. In cruise I will burn of one tank for a bit then swap to the other. This lets me know at plenty of altitude if I have an issue with one tank feeding or not. I have the clear header tank behind my seat so I can always see if the tank is full and I can watch the flow through the fuel lines going to the header tank as well. The electric boost pump has saved my ass a few times now when filters start to clog as I will be keeping mine on all my birds now.
We have several members in the Valley. Very interested in how that Hirth works out for you. We have a few of us in the Kenai / Soldotna area as well that like to build, repair and get out and fly around.
I did the same on a semi remote repair. Scabbed a piece of 3/16" aircraft ply on each side and used a few 1/8" dowels to pin it together. A little gorilla glue and she is still holding up just fine. May not be the prettiest and I swore I would repair it right when I got it back home.. That was 2 yrs ago and I just painted it and keep on flying. If the fiberglass is not too bad, wick some thin model CA (super glue) into the cracked up glass and it will take care of it. You can smear a little of the thick CA over the top to bind any loose fibers down.
I think the only reason of for ease of mounting in a congested cowling. some are on the engine some have been mounted remotely. On the KF they are on the engine as it is upright. Inverted and you need to remote them a bit so things will fit inside the smaller cowling etc.
thats an all new red neck fix to just cut the tube and bend it over instead of removing it all together. Looks like a great place to cut the shit out of your shoe or to get caught up on when your feet slip over just a bit. I would get it completely out of the way.. along with the rest of the nose gear set up if you plan on keeping it a TD.
you gotta play with the inputs. you can slip these birds so hard they have the flight characteristics of a greased anvil. Yes, lots of power on the rudder is the norm with these birds. As in, a little rudder will go a long ways.
Where is your CG at and at what speeds are you flying? If I am just cruising around at 70 or so the tail is always low. If I get it up to around 90 the tail comes up and it feels more "solid" Believe it or not, a more aft CG helps as you can get rid of all that up trim and she flys much better all the way around.
you wrap the lead around 2 of the pug wires so you can measure the mag drop on the tiny tach. If you have an analog tach the chances that its ready way off are VERY high. I have seen them from a couple hundred RPM off to over 1000 RPM off.
Brazed? not cool. If they were welded using oxy acetylene and actual welding wire (er70S or something of that sort) then the joints are welded just like the original pipers and dozens of other early plane manufactures were welded. Were the welds a golden or brass color?