Joey has done this on his avid a couple of times. Drain the tanks and fog then engine good and you should be good to go. Like Jeff said, blocking off the spars to keep critters out is a good thing as well! Depending on what battery you have you probably don't need to do anything other than maybe disconnecting it.
Those are the matco MC-1 masters. The rebuild kit is around 10 bucks each. It is really stupid simple to do as well. http://www.matcomfg.com/MC1REBUILDKIT-idv-3122-46.html
I would pull them apart and clean them up and make sure the rubber "foot" is still attached to the bottom of the piston and that the foot is swiveling like it should. They are pretty self explanatory when you pull them apart and they will make you scratch your head and wonder how the hell they stop you and give you any pressure at all
What masters do you have? sounds to me like it time for a "rebuild" if its the MC1 masters (matco with built in resi) then its pretty easy to pull them apart and look at them. The little rubber pad on the bottom is barely more than a bad joke and might have come loose from the bottom of the plunger.
AS much as this has been discussed and beat on around here it kills me to see another bird bent up due to a well known and well documented design fault. It seems the "it hasn't happened to me yet so it must be good" mentality can only be overcome by bent birds.
your right on how this design bends the gear and fuse. with the direct pull from side to side it does not distribute the load. Again, this has been beat to death on other "gear threads" and a quick search on gear design will give you more reading and engineering than you can shake a stick at. Sure, you can beef something up to the point it wont fail, but that will just transfer the shock loads to another part of the airframe and do even more damage. Putting lipstick on a pig does not make said pig a good date.. Without changing the design of the cabane vee and dropping the center point down your still putting way too much stress on the fuse and will be bending legs and fuse sides.
putting a brace front to back does not do anything to keep it from bending inwards. The issue is the geometry and the spring bottoming out too easy and things going metal to metal. Its been beat to death and engineered from hell to high water.
do NOT have the cabane vee like that where it gives a straight pull through.. Do a search for gear on here and see the number of reasons why. Please learn from everyone else's mistakes and do not do the same just for ease of fabrication unless you want the gear and fuse buckled and your plane wrecked.
damnit.. that little smack down should not have bent the gear... Chalk up another one to the shitty design of the spring gear not allowing enough travel before it all goes metal to metal. I truly hope after all the preaching that has been done on here and the relatively easy fixes that have been posted (I fixed my problem in less than a day) that we don't have to ready any more of these stories of birds being bent by a very well known and documented problem. Sucks that it happened to ya but glad you walked away from it and the bird will live to fly another day!
More down than up deflection.. Well known well documented issue. The F7a arms help to fix this. You have to get into the designers head to really understand why it is why it is. Folding wings by just pulling 2 pins and folding them back. The only way to get them to work was wit the mixer system set the way it is. its called design trade off. give a little hear for the better of the overall design goal. Others have changed the arms in the mixer even more so that just the swap to the F7a arms and you have to pull the bolts on the flaperon linkage horn and manually roll the flaperons up then fold the wings. it doesn't do the magic all by itself. Can there de refinements to the design. Yes for sure. Is it worth it for minimal gains?? that's a question only you can answer for yourself. Several people have spent a ton of money trying to turn an avid or a kitfox into a supercub, its not going to happen. Gas through the tanks is the single biggest performance enhancement you can do. I see guys with 200K + planes that can't fly them even close to the planes potential. I personally would not start mucking with anything on the plane other than get the roll out of it by adjusting the rod end and getting your CG back to about 16" with some weight on the tailwheel and just fly the crap out of the plane till it becomes a part of you, then you can start making little tweaks here and there if you want to. Again, Just my opinion. Put that with 5 bucks and you may be able to get a cup of coffee these days.
Think ease of building and flying... the flat plate stab has been used on the cub lines as well as many others for a very long time. Think again at what you flying. If you want a higher performance plane then the Avid / kitfox line may not be for you. The plane was designed and built to be light, slow and easy to build. Yes there are some trade off to it but it is what it is for the most part and when you put some time in the seat you will learn to enjoy it. The benefits of the junkers style flaperons are well documented. Even when the wing stalls you still have full control. Do you have the F7A arms installed? This helps with the adverse yaw. Running out of elevator when you add in more flap deflection than it is designed to handle. Once again, stay within design limitations or you have to make a larger elevator. Easy way to seal the gap? that has been documented on here MANY times. Gorilla tape works, clear tape works, the clear thick tape used on the top of snowboards works well. Gap seals can be made from foam or anything else you want to use, its experimental and its easy to do and you don't have to have anyones approval to do it. At the end of the day, its hard to make a silk purse from a sows ear but then again, none of us wanted a silk purse to begin with LOL Once again I recommend that before you start doing anything with it other than adjust the strut end to get the roll out of it is to put some gas through the tanks and get YOU up to speed on the plane and its quirks. It is a very easy plane to fly and is nice and light on the controls, you just need a little time to get used to it. Pretty much about the same as going from flying a cub to getting some time in a slippery 210. There is a big difference in how you have to fly the 2 different airplanes and you wont get good at flying either one unless you spend some time learning they 2 different types of animals that they are.
You can get the master rebuild kit for the matcos cheap. Do you have a pic of the ones you have? I have a set of them that I swapped out to the MC4D masters and there was really nothing wrong with them I just wanted more breaking power (the Cleveland double pucks did the trick on that).
You can truly only get in so much flap action before you run out of elevator to compensate for the nose down pitching when you pull them on. 15 degree is a pretty safe bet and yes it does make a difference. you can get 20 deg out of them on a day when the wind is pretty much straight on the nose and your not having to use lots of roll input. Again, get in the air and play with these settings. You can do slow flight all day long at 5000 RPM just slowly keep pulling the nose up and get the plane to slow down. Remember that the very best performance mod you can do for any airplane is to put more gas through the tanks! Adjusting the rod end on the strut will get rid of the rolling moment you have and its quick and easy to do.
Congrats on the first flights! The freewheeling prop is a huge air brake.. That's a good thing landing short. You can set the idle at 1400 all day long and its smooth as silk. You can keep the prop engaged by keeping the RPM up a tad as well. The only time the freewheeling prop truly sucks is when you have an engine out. In that case, look at the spot directly under you as that's pretty much how far you are going to glide. What tailwheel do you have? It does not take much practice at all to keep the prop turning right where you want it with the clutch, I miss having mine and will soon be spending the money on another one. Diving for the runway is the best way to float past the end of it. Did you play with the flaperons?? My plane is 100 pounds heavier than yours empty and it stalls right around 40 as well, just a touch under with the flaperons on. With the VG's the only way to really get it to break is to do power on stalls or to really yank the nose up and hold it there. If you just ease into it them it will just go into a mush. Spend some time practicing your landings at say.. 2000' AGL. Basically see how slow you can fly it and yet have just enough speed to get your sink rate to 0 or close to it just prior to hitting 1K on the altimeter. Or start off at 3K and use 2K for your virtual run way in the sky as your target goal to arrest sink rate. I tend to fly mine behind the power curve most of the time dragging it in with lots of power as needed to keep the AS as slow as possible, but I know full when that if the engine burps I have a pretty good chance of becoming a lawn dart. At any rate, I would bet that within 4 or 5 hrs you will be much more comfortable flying these birds and your landings will come right into line.