That is a good point. Have you checked the tach against a tiny tach? That analog tac is NORTORIOUS for being way off. Your fuel burn is quite a bit more than mine too on take off. Or have you calibrated the fuel flow meter?
The M6x1 fittings. They have them on amazon too. Have that and some 3/16" tygon tubing in my cart. Gonna make Bob add this to the 670 before I fly his mod 4 again so I can start off on the rich side and dial it down as needed to help the EGT's
if it starts lumping up, you can put the cans in some hot water and it will soften up and you can mix it right up and it will smooth right back out again. Let it cool before you try to mix the 2 parts together though unless you want it to set a lot faster!
I picked up a set of those tires for mine as well but have not yet tried them. Local dealer had them on sale last fall for a good price. I am more into having and adequate size tire for the things I do here but not overkill like the 30" airstreaks I had on mine as they killed the climb. If you can't afford the 26" bushwheels (I think the perfect tire for these birds but $$) then this is probably the next best thing if your running the 6" wheels. If you have the 8" kitfox atv wheels then the nanking tire is stupid cheap and works very well.
Learn something new every day. I thought what set us apart from other mammals was the ability to learn from others mistakes. In order to put enough pitch in at 3500 RPM and still maintain altitude your going to be lugging the poor engine in a big way. 2 stroke DO NOT like nor tolerate for very long LUGGING. They do however give good service life when PROPERLY LOADED. There are manufacture specs for a reason. Loading an engine over that which gives proper static loading and stays within the parameters of maximum RPM is not the brightest idea. The old 4 strokes and "conventional" aircraft engines are much more tolerant of pilot abuse than a 2 stroke. There are a lot of smoking holes and statistics left by pilots who did not properly run their 2 stroke engines. If you feel the burning desire to roll the dice and play with statistics please make sure the life insurance is paid up and your will is in order. I don't want to sound like a dick, but what you are proposing to me sounds much more like a death wish than prudent experimentation and learning for the greater good of all man kind. Do as ya wish but man... To prove you can do something for a few minutes is one thing, to think you can do it and get away with it for a long duration repeatedly just does not seem prudent to me. The horror stories that you hear around the airports and on the net about how terrible the 2 smokes are and how dangerous they are seem to be perpetuated by people who refuse to pay attention and to run them outside the parameters.
go drive a narrow WB jacked up car and haul ass into a corner and yank the wheel. After you get out of the hospital go get one with a longer wheelbase and wider stance and enjoy the ride.. A google search of the narrow gear versus wider gear on taildragger will probably get you more reading material than one evening worth of adult beverages will last.
The rotary valve only replaces reeds, has nothing to do with oiling at all. The oil injection pump does that. Yes it meters it at a lower feed rate, something to the tune of 50:1 wide open throttle and 70:1 at an idle IF you have the injection cable set right and its operating freely. The engine has 3 jets... idle jet, main jet and needle jet. The needle and needle jet are what affect the cruise range of the engine. Hence having in flight adjustable like the arctic sparrow needles or the hacman system that does it off the pressure in the bowl to keep EGTS in the optimum range and thereby having best fuel efficiency. Of course the 2 stroke IS improved when going to fuel injection. Not something that is reliably available for the rotax 582. After going the route of attaching 02 sensors on sleds and dicking around with a boondocker box to tune the fuel injection most people learned expensive lessons and melted pistons. Not only that, its another gauge to stare at and get lost in trying to tweedled in the best most efficient settings. The engine is what it is, tune it to be good all around then keep your head out of the cockpit and pay attention to whats outside the windshield. It is stupid easy to melt the pistons on a 2 stroke if you want to push the envelope. On a sled you can do that and only have to tow it back to the truck or the trailer. On a plane you run the risk of it being your last flight and I pray you don't take an innocent passenger with you. I am off the soap box, I wont say anything more unless more incorrect information is posted.
original struts for cubs and t crates have the service life and xray requirements. Univair and a few others have made "lifetime" struts. One good thing about cub or tcrate struts is that they are longer than what we need for ours so you can cut the ends off, look in them with a borescope and then cut them down to the length we need for ours. Most times you can get the old struts free.
you guys are really making me think about putting one of these on my coyote. They were originally designed for a 100 hp honda engine conversion. putting 140 - 150 in the nose on the cheap sounds better to me than going with the 0290 that was originally put in the coyote I have. I have to build an engine mount for it either way I go so the availability of parts etc is now making me lean towards the yamadog. Now to start saving pennies for the gear box!
when you install the wood PLEASE make sure you prep the tube well (media blast is best) epoxy them on good then completely seal it up! Wood holds moisture, moisture next to metal tubes leads to.. drum roll please..... rusted and pitted struts! There are pics way back on the forum somewhere of mine that were rusted and pitted when I got them. Since I was going for float ops and would have water spray all the time I went with heavier struts and used the plastic fairings from kitfox. This allows the struts to "breath" and any moisture to dry out. If I were to do it again I would probably just replace the struts and use the stock tubing and fairings as I added a lot of weight to my bird. If you hangar your plane its probably not that big of a deal as everything has a chance to dry out completely. I leave mine out in the elements year round.
At low RPM you wont have enough thrust to fly unless your playing in a thermal. It will also crud the engine up in short order. you can't lug a 2 stroke like you do a 4 stroke and expect it to last. Trying to reinvent the wheel is not always prudent. As far as the IFA argument. When I was flying mainly on floats it was a huge help. With the prop set for cruise, I would barely turn 4800 RPM when starting from a dead stop in the water. Since I sold the floats and am only on wheels or skis, the IFA is pretty much a mute thing and I hardly ever touch it. There are a few times where it has saved my butt but that was going from 10 degrees at altitude to -38 when I dropped into the river bottom and my IFA mixture needles were froze up. The only way I could get the EGT's under control was to really load the engine up using the IFA prop. As far as getting best economy and cruise at certain altitudes you will only be able to truly do this if you have an inflight mixture adjustment. Going from stock jetting at sea level then trying to cruise at 5 or 6 K you will be running really fat. If you throttle back to try and get fuel burn down your just going to load the engine with more carbon and not have it hot enough to burn it out. If your just playing local none of this really comes into play. If you are wanting Xcountry you must really consider the bladder as the limiting factor most of the time. I highly doubt that one could dream up a mousetrap that has not already been built for the 2 strokes that has either been proven to be useful and helpful or has put people into the trees. You are better off learning from others what works in the 2 strokes versus trying to learn on your own. It only takes a few seconds of trying something dumb to melt one down. Yes, this is the voice of experience My answer to longer range out of my bird is to hang football tanks on the struts and have and extra 10 gallons I can use in flight and have a couple 5 gallon jugs or a 15 gallon barrel in the seat next to me. Have done it both ways.
depends on the amount of dihedral as to how the plane will react and what will turn it. flatter wings need aileron input while high dihedral wings can make coordinated turns using rudder and elevator alone. It is a dance that one must learn depending on what bird they are flying. The flight characteristics of one plane does not always follow on another.
If you do weld it up, I would also take a torch to it after welding and "stress relieve" the welded area then let it slowly cool. you need an accurate way of tracking the temp and don't go over 1100 degrees with it. Best if you have some kaowool or other type of high temp insulation to wrap it with after you heat it. You can have them ceramic coated and they will look better and last longer, but I would not bother doing that to a rotten exhaust system. When you do buy new I would spend the $ to get it ceramic coated.