Adam, If you have an instructor willing to teach in your plane it makes the most sense to buy your own plane to learn in. Why pay rental fee that you will never get back. The instructor probably will require dual brakes and will have to fly your plane solo for XX hours before he can instruct in said plane unless he already has time in that make and model I think. I could be wrong, but I know that has been an issue for some in the past. Either way, I think it was 3-5 hrs the instructor needed when I checked into it for a float rating. As Jim said each looks at a plane differently. Some may never consider putting a gorilla tape patch on a plane.. I don't have an issue with it There is a difference between safe to fly and being anally perfect. Growing up flying here in AK I have seen and flown a lot of really tired beat up planes that most lower 48 pilots would never dream of getting into so my views are a bit skewed. Bottom line is, I would see if there is an EAA guy in the area that would check it out for you if you cant find another Avid driver close. I know some damn good AP around here that don't want anything to do with the experimentals because they are just too busy to take the time to learn what is acceptable for an EPX versus the certified they have been dealing with for 40 yrs. Not that they are scared to work on or fly them, they just don't fully understand us being able to do mods etc without a stack of STC's and red tape they are used to having to deal with.
Glad you got her down safe! All too often its the little things that get you. broken exhaust baffles got me in the pacer during a hard climb out with no reserve airspeed.. my outcome was not as nice as yours.
I kept my mouth shut yesterday after reading the original post. Made me think of a buddy of mine who owned the local Arctic cat shop. When Skidoo came out with the single ply track he talked mad shit about it and how it would fly apart etc. I got tired of listening to his rants and stopped hanging around the shop. I told him I don't want to come in here and listen to a rant on what a pile of shit Skidoo and Polaris is, I want you to tell me why AC is better than the competitors. Low and behold, the next year AC came out with the a single ply track and it was the best thing since sliced bread to him. Years of him running his mouth about how bad the competition was instead of showcasing the product he sold led to the down fall of his business and loss of the dealership as NO ONE, even his very best of friends wanted to go into the shop and listen to him rant about the other guys, me included. My advise falls in along side most of the guys here. Keep the technical data coming about your product, keep us updated on real world numbers not what you think works out on paper. I deal with fixing engineering fuck ups on a daily basis and have to come up with real world solutions that work and result in a code compliant product. I would love to see the same from you. Testimonies from actual users of your engine redrive combo, real world numbers on flying hours with said combo. I don't care one damn bit about paper numbers, they mean absolutely shit, the proof is in the pudding.
Thanks for that info. The gear project stalled out due to various personal issues, but I will run the numbers and see what I come up with. I am with you on the need to be able to get the tail in the air especially when on skis. Right now even with full down elevator I cant get the tail off the ground till about 30 MPH. On skis that sucks ass in a big way! It also acts like a big anchor flying off the sand beaches. A larger wider tail wheel is a band aide not a fix.
The only time I have ever had tailwheel shimmy is when something got loose or the castor angle was too far out of whack. The spring mounting bolts on the fuse got loose and created a good shimmy on me but that's about it. I have run with and without springs, compression springs, loose chains, tight chains etc. Pay attention to the different sized springs and which side you put them on. using a geared engine you would put them on the opposite side of what you would a conventional engine. I do get the tail off the ground ASAP with full down elevator to get the drag cleaned up and accelerate faster. I also almost never wheel land, I drag it in more often than not 1 point
I would say worst case, you could use a couple relays and have the controller run the relays. Not sure how they will hold up top constant use but you can get a prewired relay for the lights for around 8 bucks off amazon. I had originally wired the lights on my side x side direct to the switch but had a flickering issue. I used the relay and now they don't flicker or trip out on me. The biggest thing to remember is the load on the stator.. its only 170 watts tops so bear that in mind when sizing your lights.
I use the vision X light but in all fairness, any time I do any night flying and really need a landing light it is in the winter on skis and they really light up the snow. I have never tried them as landing lights on anything but snow as it does not get dark here in the summer I have the crazed pilot controller but have never hooked it up for the wig wag. I really need to do that as it seriously helps for recognition. For those wondering, I went for the high tech mounting method on my landing gear leg.. an Adel clamp
I just replaced mine again as well and used large head aluminum rivets. I have replaced mine multiple times due to yellowing or getting gas on it. Normally I use large shears to cut out the windscreen but this time I tried out my Makita cordless shears.. Man what a sweet way to cut the lexan! Zips right through it in half the time it used to take me!
I have flown the I and II with the smaller tail on wheels skis and floats. Never had an issue with them in any configuration. Yes there is adverse yaw, yes you have to use your feet, no its not an issue and I never ran out of control. The earlier models can use the F7A upgrade that came out for the Avid to help get rid of some of the adverse yaw. We did that on a buddies mod I. These earlier models were much lighter and in my opinion "sportier" in the stol department. Tape the gap on the elevator and you get all the authority you need.
I have added this subform as a place for us to ask questions of the new manufacture of Avid aircraft so Mark wont have to waste his time hunting all the various categories. If you have questions for him or need parts post them up here please.
the biggest thing is how many RPM are you running flat and level WOT. If your running a pretty high rpm flat and level then when you pull back on the power for cruise the EGTS are going to go up. With a fixed pitch prop its a balancing act between take off and cruise performance. Remember, anytime you point the nose down hill pull the power WAY back. If you let the prop start driving the engine in a descent your asking for a burn down. Flying a 2 stroke has a bit of a learning curve. It kind of sucks because if you look at the power curve on these max HP is at 6500 and max tq right around 6700. It drops off pretty quick below 6500 on the HP so turning it too slow on take off and your making under 50 hp easy. The down side I have found on the IVO IFA is the damn electric motors don't seem to last as long as they should IMO and they are charging big bucks for a 20.00 motor. I have a well known RC car engine builder making me a custom wound motor that I hope will provide better life and better all around service. Hopefully I will know in another week or two.
as long as your not dipping a wing tip on a good cross wind that seems like a great plan. Why do you not want to have them further outboard where the original fiberglass floats were mounted? I am trying to learn all I can from you folks that are flying these before I complete mine.
Using the mil spec shock cord you will be much happier. It made a big difference on mine when I was running bungee gear. Also take a look at the attached drawing. Trust me, when the gear leg breaks as it has done to many people, your day will get really shitty. With the safety cable where you have it there is nothing to keep that gear leg under you. It folds up and smacks the bottom of the wing and makes one hell of a racket when the plane flips over so damn fast it will make your head spin. Yes, I am talking from experience.
some 120 or 200 grit on a sander will polish up a window for you to see the gas just fine. Take 5 min and smooth it out then wipe some epoxy over it and it will be plenty clear enough to see the fuel level in the tank.
I riveted mine on to the spar and used 5200 on it with a few clamps to hold it till it dried. They have been in place since 09.
If you have not already done it. On the inside of the root rib, put some lexan over your fuel sight window with a hand full of screws around the edge. There is A LOT of draft coming through if you dont. I am thinking of putting some felt strips on the root rib to seal that gap.. of my infamous clear gorilla tape on the bottom side of the gap