LOW EGT's lead to plug fouling. Keeping the EGT's in the upper range will keep the plugs nice and happy. I am in the same camp of OI keeps the same amount of oil going into the engine when less fuel is going in is a good thing for 2 strokes. Basically what you are doing in "rejetting" the carbs at the higher altitudes such as we have done with snowmachines for eons. The only difference is, with the mixture control you don't have to stop on the side of a mountain, fumble around with half frozen gas soaked fingers dropping the jets in the bottom of the belly pan cursing up a storm just to keep your engine from blubbering and farting as your trying to go higher up in elevation. There have been attempts at the "automatic" systems in sleds but I never had much luck with them really working right. With the hac man system or for those of us lucky enough to have the Arctic Sparrow mixture control, it is a simple twist of the knob or knobs to keep the engine humming happily along and not popping snorting and belching as we soar along on the winds. Yes we ran premix on the sleds and didn't have an issue as long as you remembered to stop on the way down and swap to the fatter jets before you ripped across the low lands.
I am not sure, it is possible that the write up Randy did was on the forum prior to the crash we had that wiped out a bunch of posts. It seems to me that he used some sort of a glue or cleaner for conveyor belt repair then the bedliner to top coat and that gave the best results to keep it sticking to the tire. I may just be day dreaming too.
goo gone works well too and I have used it on my poly tone. Just don't work the area too hard or it will start getting into the paint. I sponged it on pretty heavy and let it sit then wiped it off. Works well if you let the product have time to do its job. A hair drier (not a heat gun unless your very careful) works well to soften it up a bit as well.
The "official repair" was for the kitfox and the rib tails on those are different from the avid a bit. I did a field repair on mine using a cap strip on each side some bamboo skewers and gorilla glue. It has held up so well that I never did anything else once I got it home other than a bit of sanding and then painted it. A lot depends on where it broke. The one in the OP pictures was right at the trialing edge of the wing. Mine broke more in the center of the hanger.
The suggestion is for tanks mounted below the pulse fuel pump. It is not a manufactures requirement, more of a suggestion. I guess I look at things a bit differently. What was the intent of the suggestion and how can I meet that intent. If you run a 4 PSI facet pump there is no way that the overpressure can occur therefore, the statement about overpressure is pretty much null and void, not to mention it does not apply to you to begin with as your tanks are well above the pulse pump
They say parallel to reduce chance of over pressure. Using the right facet pump your not going to over pressure it. Both pumps are designed to fail open. Many many people are running the pumps in series and have not had any issues. I know its has saved my butt more than once. I don't run with the pump on all the time. I will kick it on as a boost pump to prime the lines then turn it off to start the engine. In flight when lines or filters have become restricted it gave me just enough fuel flow to get on the ground safely. If you are running in parallel you will need check valves on both pumps to keep the fuel flowing to the carbs and not back flowing though the other pump. Series is really the easiest and best option in my mind.
Tab down is actually nose up so you should be fine. On mine I don't need much nose down but lots of nose up so I have mine set so that the tab is down about 1/4" when the trim indicator shows neutral giving me more nose up trim. If I need the nose down more I can pull on a touch of flap. Took me a few trys to get the mechanical adjustment right on the tab so I could get the needed nose up trim. Sealing the gap on the elevator make a big difference as well.
X2 well.. Based on crap work I have seen IA's do in the past and sign off as airworthy I would say #2 is the correct answer, however, I am with Columbus on this one. I wont accept the work unless it is both. Reminds me of a time I had an IA repair a gear leg on the PA-12. After he struggled with it then said it was good to go I took one look at it and called bullshit. I did the repairs then he signed it off and it was both 1 and 2 then. Yet another time was putting the gear back on a buddies Beaver after pulling the floats. After dropping the banjo bolt in the dirt then trying to stab it back in the hole covered in dirt I stopped him and made him clean it off. Then he proceeded to cross thread the nut. He grinned and said well a cross thread is better than no thread right. I again called bullshit and made him replace the bolt and nut and he was bitching and moaning the whole time that the old would have held just fine. That was when I made the call to go experimental so I knew exactly what I was flying and how the work was done.
That is my plan. Turn it into a 30 minute fix if you stop and drink a beer and play with the ole lady for a few minutes. Lil epoxy, drill and bolt and your done. If for some reason you happen to do it again you can do a quick swap down the road. I am with you, no way it will let go and I would actually have better peace of mind bolted versus welded as it will be a pain in the ass to weld in place going around the bottom side. I guess a few rosette welds would be easy to do too but why do that when bolted would still be "overkill". Like dear ole daddy always said before he departed this shitty world.. "If you wanna know the easiest way to get something done ask the laziest man on the crew.. that would be me".
I was not too big on the Subaru at all... until I flew side X side with Randy in his. When I was burning 6 gallons an hour in the 582 he was burning 3.2-3.5 an hour. The Stretch and the extra HP really do make for a nice combo and Randy can get in and out every bit as short as I can and climb much better. Granted, his is an Avid + but your using the same wing and the stretch on this one put you in the ball park of being oranges to mandarins. I too think the 26 is a bit high but as Ed stated, you can sell the spare and recoup a chunk. Randy has had great service from his Subie but he has decided to go with a souped up 912 in his this year. You just cant argue with less weight and more HP. From the pics the bird looks clean and well equipt, the question would be empty weight and gross. What is the birds true useful load.
Welcome aboard! We have several members in that area that might be willing to give advise on local A&P but my finding is that most of them have never dealt with or seen an Avid or kitfox and especially have never dealt with a 2 stroke powered aircraft. The A&P / IA I use pretty much looks for the obvious and asks me if I feel safe and confident in my flying lawn mower then signs it off. When was the last condition inspection? Is it flown regularly or is it a barn find or hangar queen. I think you will find that the Avid will make you grin ear to ear after flying the spam cans after you get through the initial shock of having to use your feet.