When I was building the F7a I found some weld nuts to make the pushrods and then used some 10-32 long set screws to make those pushrods. I tried to find where I bought the weld nuts but I just don't recall. I do have a few of the long grade 8 set screws that I can send you if you find the weld nuts. My guess is that the original tube that you have had cap screws welded onto the end of the tube before it was chromed. That wil make them prone to break and don't recommend that method. Also there is a modified setup with better geometry that should be much better on the Yahoo Avid flier site in the files section there is a drawing and somewhere there is a more complete set of instructions for this mod but I am not sure where but someone on this site my have them.
Just curious are your chains tight? I waltched a video recently that made a very good case for having just a little slack in the chains for the tail wheel to release properly. Mine are just taunt and release ok but I plan on trying the slightly slack chains. I will see if I can find the video and post the link. Mine is the Matco 8" dual fork with the 25* arms. Here is the link
I had the tail first issue on my MK IV as well and that is one of the reasons I went with the taller gear. It also increases the takeoff roll besides the tail first issue. Shorter tail spring increases the risk of the tail wheel hitting and bending the rudder on a slightly harder than normal landing, one guess as to how I found that out. Nice to see that you got it flying, looks good. You will like the 912 when you get around to installing it.
Welcome Art, I used to go to the Gorge to windsurf. Had some monster days out there riding my AHD Rocket behind a 3.2. My boards and sails now just hangout in the hangar, no more playing chicken with the barges.
Looks like hand brakes between the seats TJay, that is what I have in my Q2 and I've been tempted more than once to put them in the Avid. The oil tank must be behind the seat somewhere like the MK IV. Nice plane and nice mountains, what range is that.
Does he have the counter weights for the flaperons installed. Sounds like you need to go back thru the controls and make sure they were put together properly and then re-do the flaperons rigging. If you can't find anything then it is probably best to get someone that knows these planes to come look at it Joey, maybe if he has the time..
I asked my DAR where he wanted mine, he had me put it on the baggage door. This is another one of those things that depends on your DAR, easiest to make a list of these sorts of things and ask him in your pre inspection discussions or just leave it to install on the day of inspection.
I had a 2100D Revmaster in my Q2, when I removed it to install the Jabiru 3300 I weighed it and the actual weight was 200 lbs. not to sure how they can come up with 170 even without the exhaust, starter and the oil cooler.
Not sure who built this but it is not a High Wing setup. The attach point for the spring strut is different to say noting of the axle setup. My new gear has an axle setup similar to this with Matco .75" bolt on axle. That allows an easy way to to adjust the camber and toe for the wheels. Might be a nice gear with the snowgo springs. As Dusty mentioned the cabane is weak without the base of the triangle added to help protect your airframe
I don't recall reading about a Kitfox that has a vented header having these kinds of problems but it is perhaps apples and oranges situation due to the dual wing tanks. It is very hard for me to imagine the the little electric pump pulling enough of a vacuum to actually empty the header and not having enough of a vacuum to pull fuel from the tank but of course a smalll vacuum in the header would at some point stop the flow. Two things that are not known is the amount of vacuum that little pump will pull and the actual vacuum that might have been created by the open fuel tank. I can see that shutting off the pump would upset a delicate balance and stopping the flow. Two wing tanks are bound to be a much safer system with either a vented or non vented header with the lost cap or the reversed vent tube. I guess I will stick with my vented header until some engineer can show me the science to make me change my mind.
This is an interesting case to examine. I have flown my MK IV without a fuel cap one time without ill effects. On my plane I have a full time vent to the header tank and the engine driven fuel pump. The trip was about ten miles plus a good mile of taxi time. The plane has over 650 hours on it since I built it with this setup. I'm not suggesting this setup to anyone else but it has worked. So the question I have is did the header refill when you vented it or have you tried that yet. One more question, does your plane have one or two wing tanks and were they both feeding the header at the time. Just for comparison mine has two tanks and no valves between the tanks. i have seen kinked fuel lines on a friends plane after folding and opening the wings that allowed fuel starvation The great new is that you kept your head and managed a safe emergency landing!
Hope this mystery is solved, there are valuable lessons here for all of us.
I was replying about removing the paper from the Lexan. My doors are just Lexan but the molded ones are very nice and seem to wear better. I have not seen the Avid ones, only the kitfox probably worth the cash if you want to spend it.
Larry the short answer is that we don't know for sure. Ronny Smith said that he suspected oil starvation sometime in the past. Maybe that was the vibration that you were chasing in the past, the failing pushrod bearing in the process of failing. But the case fretting was a known issue on engines 912S manufactured before August of 2006. With the lower compression of our zippers it may not be an issue. I suspect that Ronny is correct the Zipper had not been one the engine long enough for case fretting to do its work. It is easy to check for fretting problems and I suggest you, I and others with the Zipper on older engine keep a weary eye on this. The first sign to check for is a prop that turns harder after shutdown and then easier again after 10 minutes or so. If that is the case confirmation is made by loosening the cylinder stud nuts right after shutdown, if the prop turns freely again the the fretting is confirmed. https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/rotax-forum/3-4-stroke-technical-questions/2271-rotax-912-uls-fretted-crankcase And to answer your earlier question about Dallas that I did not get to, the new engine is doing well, nothing that money can't be a help in massive quantities. About $20000 for a nice round figure.
Hey Randy what do you have for a serial number on the 912. The cases were beefed up in 2006 because there were issues of stretching with the 912S. I have the serial number some where and will take a look for it. That said, my engine is an early 90,s engine and so far so good. The other fellow that sells the kits won't put them on the older engines. I have 300 and some hours on my Zipper so far.
The Ivo Ul standard pitch 3 blade prop and spinner for 912 are for sale for $350 plus shipping. I will try to get px today and start a new thread. You have first shot at it Jim. Also I noticed that I never posted the Safety for the elevator trim Jim and I will get that up on that thread.
Yes Jim, another senior moment Ivo 3 blade 72" for a Rotax 80 hp 912. Let me do a little research and get back to you on the price, it will come with the spinner in excellent condition. I will get some pictures.