Av8r_Sed

I'm sure Dave didn't become a fabricator, extraordinaire without taking on a few challenges along the way.  Every once in awhile we need to try something to expand our horizons.

Doug, care to share?  I've got a model 2 fuselage and a model IV mixer but I've never put together the complete list of changes needed to marry to a set of IV wings.  

OK, the lens purchase was a good one!  Very impressive pics.  Thanks Joey.

Doug, your route is what I'd recommend. They don't have gates anywhere in the system anymore. They do charge substantially more if you go through a cash lane. Just remember to save some mellow music or a good audiobook for that part of the drive. 
Your tollway proceeds will be used to put a new tollway segment in my backyard and ruin my property value.  Gotta love Illinois. 

There isn't a good alternative route at the south end of Lake Michigan. I usually wade through whatever traffic there is on 80/94 and come up the I294 tollway, even with the high tolls. I only come through the city at way off peak times. Make sure you have an iPass compatiable transponder or the Illinois Tollway will bend you over and have their way with your wallet. If you happen to be pulling a trailer, this is the only way I'd go at high traffic times. Your best strategy is more timing when you get to this point. Friday afternoon/evening pretty much guarantees misery. 
On the Milwaukee end, the 894 bypass is your friend and there isn't much construction up to that point this year. 
Finally, I use the Waze app to negotiate traffic around these parts. It sometimes does some creative rerouting around traffic issues which can be helpful. Unfortunately, it doesn't know to avoid bad neighborhoods. 

This thread started by Joey?  A lot of discussion, but not much "how to" on design and fabrication.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0ahUKEwjgkI6ZrsbNAhWJy4MKHWXjBHMQFghOMAg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.avidfoxflyers.com%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F2093-lets-talk-gear-geometry%2F&usg=AFQjCNFMyFEu3t9nBivAp-VbN8e5ZjgzRg&sig2=HHUOmsekkUqUd4sdMDGxmA

If you post a clear picture of the prop we can probably identify what you've got.  The medium blades are stout and on first look one might think they're too much for a 582, yet that's what IVO recommends.
Are you coming from a nice working setup and re-propping for better performance?
For me, the clutch turned out to be a good solution and the plusses outweighed the drawbacks.  If you do go that way, know that you'll end up needing to change at least the idle jets to a much smaller size.

To document in the thread:
  1 Lb-Ft = 1.35582 Nm
  1 Nm  =  0.73756 Lb-Ft
Here's a torque specific conversion calculator: http://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/torque_conversion.htm

I'm thinking of flying into the UL field on Saturday and plan to stay at Camp 75 once again.  Probably will depart mid-week.

Keeping our minds sharp. Always designing and building to keep learning. That's my attraction to experimental aviation. Glad I could help. 

Didn't mean to hijack the thread. Back to Fat Avids!

Vendor literature for screw terminal type Aluminum Electrolytics do tend to warn against mounting them with the seal end facing down.  A couple of examples are attached.  Completely your choice.
 
e-al_gui.pdf
UCC_PrecautionsGuidelines.pdf

Model III's are good but not quite as good as later models.  The undercambered airfoil caps the airspeed maximum somewhere around 90 mph and many cruise slower than this (my comfortable cruise is 80 mph).
Is the engine logbook detailed with entries covering the engine's life?  You can tell a lot about how carefully maintained it is just by reading the entries.  When was the last overhaul?  Is it an original engine with 1187 hours?
Grey or Blue head 582?  The original Grey head 582's had a problematic rotary valve shaft seal.  These can be converted to the Blue head ceramic seal with a little machining.  Also, according to Rotax, the cranks are time limited parts which can't be refurbished.  Has the crank ever been replaced?
I'd sure like to look at the condition of the cylinder and piston walls by bore scoping through the spark plug holes as well as the intake and exhaust ports.  Scoring of the walls and lots of carbon buildup on the piston tops are not ideal.  Also, examine the rings as they pass by the ports to see if they're free or stuck and how carboned up they are.
Pay particular attention to the seat truss and longerons where the bungee gear attached.  Most model III's started with the bungee gear even if they were upgraded earlier.  Hard landings with the bungee gear could bend or collapse some of the tubing in these areas.
If I were to fly an unknown plane, I'd sure like to carefully examine all the control linkages.  This requires removing the seat.  You want to make sure everything moves smoothly, none of the threaded rod ends are bent and there's no interference with the seat pan or anything else.  Also, there should be little slop when reversing direction of movement. It is common for control rods to be bent to achieve the proper clearance.
Look for potential issues in the fuel system. Older fiberglass wing tanks subjected to Ethanol gas could leak and might be complete junk.  Sniff for gas fumes when you first poke your head in the cockpit.  If things are done right with proper fittings/ tubing/ hoses you shouldn't smell gas.  If you do get a whiff, these things are fairly easily fixed.
Flying a Model III with 582, you should see at least 5800 RPM static and 6000 to 6500 as you takeoff and gain airspeed.  It should get off the ground quickly, even with two aboard depending a bit on density altitude.  582's with bigger props tend to idle a bit rough.  If it has a GSC wooden prop, you're likely to be replacing it soon.
This is an incomplete list and others will chime in.  In the best scenario you would take someone along experienced with the earlier model Kitfoxes.  Add your location to your profile and maybe you'll find someone nearby.
Good Luck!

Hi Chris,
It looks like all the thought and planning are coming together on that firewall.  It's looking really nice.  Before you get to wiring, make sure to flip that capacitor upright.  That style of aluminum electrolytic has a vent that should be pointing up without any wires or other stuff right over the vent.

Congrats on that huge milestone Joey!  Thanks for doing what you do to protect us all.  Also, your pictures can't be beat.  Keep 'em coming.

Anti-seize paste will blow out of an ill fitting joint and just make a mess. I used the valve lapping compound and lots of elbow grease. It wasn't a quick job, but did work. 

I love the crossover theme between your hobby and day job. Nice pics from both. It's great seeing the taxpayer supported hardware getting put to use instead of say, tanks parked in New Mexico. 
Getting closer to dialing in the new gear?

Rivnuts

As far as I know, the culprit was trying to idle a 582 smoothly with a 70" medium 2 blade Ivo. The mass moment of inertia is pretty high  I finally installed a RK400 clutch which works great. I've inspected my gearbox a couple of times since and all is well there. 
Strangely, I've been unable to dynamically balance my prop, even with direct help from a Dynavibe rep. Their analysis is the clutch is slipping but I sure can't detect it from the performance I get. I just periodically inspect the clutch and go fly. 

I've got mine in the spot SkyStar indicated.  It works fine with no fluctuations in airspeed.

Correct, I fly regularly over Milwaukee Class C with transponder, but just monitor approach frequency.
 

Rob, That's an awful lot to go through for a life lesson.  Glad you're so resilient and are able to sort through the bad experience to find the positives.  Rise from the ashes and get back in the air.  I find flying is one of the best ways to put some perspective on life's struggles.

I did on my Kitfox.  12" venturi on the belly next to the radiator and the proper vacuum filter to the instruments (both a DG and AI).  I didn't install a regulator.  It never really worked for me with my typical 75 mph cruise.  Eventually I decided all that weight and drag was useless to me and I removed it all.  I've never missed it.

Water softener salt & blocks.  Didn't cost me anything because I need it anyway.  Named my test passenger Mr. Salty.

Well, it's going around.  I was just at the gym and two geezers were talking about how much they enjoyed last night's airing of the Tonight Show with Johnny Carson, Ed McMahon and Liz Taylor.  Thought I entered the twilight zone.
To pay homage to the thread, I like Leading Edge Airfoils for Rotax parts.  They've recently redone their on-line catalog and it's not to hard to identify the parts.  They also tend to list o-ring sizes and seals in case one decides the Rotax prices aren't worth it.
http://onlinecatalog.leadingedgeairfoils.com/app.php?RelId=6.4.3.11
Also, they usually have a Hangar Sale going on.  I noticed a lot of Rotax parts discounted somewhat.
http://www.leadingedge-airfoils.com/LEAF_HangarSale_11-14.pdf