Av8r_Sed

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Posts posted by Av8r_Sed


  1. Early Kitfoxes had the tailwheel bolt glued in with structural adhesive.  You might try moderate heat to try to loosen it if you think there may be glue.


  2. I don’t think rudder authority is much of an issue with the clutch. I usually have to bring in some power in the flare to arrest the high sink rate and then I have plenty of rudder when I touch down. The clutch also engages quickly with application of power so power is there if you need it. 

    1 person likes this

  3. I run a HacMan.  I increased the main jets to 180 which seems to work well.  I also run a 40 idle jet, but that's because I have a clutch so there's practically no load on the engine while idling.  You shouldn't have to throttle back on climb to maintain the EGT's.  Usually EGT's are only a problem if the prop unloads while descending or if you've got a lot of thermal activity.  I still have to avoid the mid-range RPMs (4500 is a killer) as EGT's go way up.

    You might try climbing out at 65 and see how it goes (if the climb angle isn't too high).

     


  4. John,

    I think I have one in my hangar.  Aluminum with cutouts for a three blade GSC.  Only problem is I won't be there for another week.  Consider this a backup if you don't find one in the meantime.

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  5. With the discussion on MIII ribs, when you do get to building, know that the plywood rib tails to support the flaperons should get reinforced somehow. That’s not in the manual, but is a known weak point in the earlier models. Mine have aluminum laminated on either side, but there are many ways to do it. 


  6. Sign up for a free account at https://www.rotax-owner.com/.  On the forum there's a sticky thread where you can request info on your SN and you should get a response within a day.  Sometimes there's not much info, but they usually have a mfg date.


  7. No carb heat for me. I’ve never heard of anyone doing it for a 582.  It has been said that the Bing 54 slide valve carbs aren’t as prone to forming carb ice as other types, but you’ll have to do your own research on that. 

    In all honesty, if you’re flying behind a two stroke you’ll have to be even more vigilant for the possibility of an engine out than you normally would. Carb ice is one of many things that might have you landing out somewhere. 


  8. 109jb hit the nail on the head with his description. The only thing I would add is that a mixture control is very beneficial. It allows you to set the EGTs at an optimal level for the phase of flight you’re in and somewhat reduces the need to rejet for seasonal changes.

    Sure, I’d like a 912 on my Model III, but I can’t justify that investment unless I start flying a lot more hours (fuel burn is higher 582 vs 912). 


  9. thx 

    i forgot to talk about water temp:

    at the warm up, i reach the 130f 

    and in flight, the temp going down to 100/110 F range , is it too low?

    i got the belly radiator, may be i need to mask it a bit

     

    Yes, the water temp is too low.  Install a thermostat.

    1 person likes this

  10. A friend at my airport flies a Rans S7.  He put it on floats and is upgrading to one of Hal's big bore ULS's for more HP. The swap is happening soon.  It's located in Northern Illinois.

    SN 4400937 is a ROTAX 912 UL produced 27-Mar-1996.  It is at about 800 hours TT, all on the RANS.  I went to see him do a run-up and idle recently and it seems to run really smoothly.  If there's interest, I have photos of the log book. I believe his asking price is $6,990.  No exhaust.  Oil tank is available.

    PM me for contact info.

    (Sorry for the cross post on the "other" site)

    912UL Rans S7.jpg

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  11. You’re using the right fuel. Running 100LL will quickly result in lead deposits on the piston crown, rings and plug electrode. It’s OK on  cross country, but I would avoid a steady diet of it. I’d agree with the other comments. Too lean, too hot. Something is causing an incorrect EGT measurement. 

    1 person likes this

  12. Thought of something else us 2-stroke guys need.

    ---Exhaust spring tool

    This one is easy, small, lightweight. I just use a wide shoelace tied in a loop. Thread it through the end of the exhaust spring loop, wrap it around your hand and leverage off of something like the engine mount. It never slips off and gives fine control to take them off or install.


  13. I agree with the premise that these guys aren't real bush pilots.  I don't share the rest of the viewpoint though.
     - The YouTube vids have been building a positive message for GA.  It's not plane crashes nor drones, so I support them.
     - It's getting younger people into aviation
     - It shows people how to have some aviation fun that isn't just $200 hamburgers
     - It's making good business for the manufacturers and fabricators
     - These guys are still down to earth and approachable, some ego involved to be a YouTuber, but what's the harm?
     - What's wrong with them making some YouTube money and getting sponsor giveaways?
     - Though Draco was clearly over the top and a waste of money in a practical sense, Mike Patey is a really talented builder and exposes some of what's possible in experimental aviation.  I respect the guy, though I can only take so much of his manic personality.
     - Due to your section of the country being so remote, I wouldn't worry about getting crowded out on your favorite strips.
     - Most of us on the forum wouldn't spend $300K for a plane that doesn't do any more than ones we can build/ buy for a third of that, but it still supports the industry which is good.

    So take a breath, ignore your feed, live and let live.  There's plenty of sky to share (at least for now).

    6 people like this

  14. I believe you only need 15 deg up and 15 deg down from level attitude. 30 deg is pretty extreme. Maybe that’s how you roll though.