Hey Chris: I have the lead installed and I was about the hook it up when I realized that it definitely needs to be fused. So that's a good addition to the conversation. One would hate to burn his airplane down because the charge line insulation failed across a fuselage tube. I'll use an in-line fuse holder right at the battery location.
Depends. In a glass airplane the battery negative will be terminated to a terminal block (buss) where multiple wires will be terminated. In a welded steel fuselage the negative side of the battery will be terminated at any convenient point on the fuselage near the battery and a ground buss will be located near the firewall also tied to the fuselage.
I think you guys got it. I don't know why I thought I'd have to run it outside or have a flush plug through the skin. I can easily run a pair of wires through the baggage area and tie wrap to a tube inside. That'll do it. Thanks TJ and Joey.
I need to put in an external plug to keep my battery topped up. It's a Rans S7LS but this is the smartest group on the net so I'm asking here. Fabric cover of course and the battery is in fuselage behind baggage compartment. I'm just not sure how to secure an input plug to the fuselage tubing. The easy out is of course to poke a hole in the fabric and dangle a wire out but that sucks really. There must be a more creative way. Any ideas?
That looks suspiciously like a 4 stroke on that pallet mister. For my private check ride I had about a hundred year old guy from the FAA as my examiner. This was in the days before the feds contracted that work out to "super CFI" types. We spent almost 2 hours just on the oral exam. One of his questions that sticks in my mind went something like: "You are on a long cross country and someone damages your spinner while you are taking lunch. Can you remove the spinner and continue on your way home and then repair it?" I said yes, I thought you could. He then said WRONG and then showed me in the Piper Warrior operations manual mandatory equipment list that the spinner was listed. It is required as a part of the cooling system. Now, of course we are experimental so that's just not going to happen the same way but as others have pointed out, the spinner CAN BE part of the cooling system to direct flow through the cylinders. Try it both ways. By the way. That check ride with him was almost all training. He knew I could fly the airplane because he knew my instructor so we spent about an hour and a half doing commercial maneuvers, short approaches, cross wind landings, emergency descent technique through a hole in the overcast and other fun stuff. He's gone West long ago but I'll always be grateful for the time I spent with him that day.
The backside is oxidizing. You can use a twin regulator/flowmeter to back purge welds like that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uoxKZtqXrA If you dig around on Jody's site you'll find MUCH simpler purge chambers he's built. I got a separate bottle of argon just for back purge on stainless. Now, having said all that they used to pay me to mig and stick weld but I major suck at Tig. For starters, I don't have a decent table to work from. Every time I set up a weld it's just kind of half assed you know? I need more practice.
Great job of course. Terrific looking. I ditto the same question as Fred on the USB outlets. Belite makes some but they seem awfully expensive for what they are. I'm pretty sure that ignition noise can be filtered out with some combination of bypass caps. I also have never used those motorsports gas cans. Dumb question maybe but do they come with some sort of snorkel to guide the gas into the hole. Everybody needs two airplanes right? I need to get rid of two to make room for the Rans. Again, happy for you man. Way to go.
Wouldn't it be nice if we could buy an airplane and be done spending for awhile? I've got tires & tubes, a better tailwheel and a propeller to buy. Yikes! Your DC headset is worth putting an ANR module in.
The weakness of the more economical headsets is in their wiring itself. To a much lesser extent the overall construction. The wires just seem to break at the plugs, at the grommets where they enter the cups or sometimes in the middle. I used to cut off the knob on a ball cap to accommodate the hard rubber headband cushion but I think a guy might get creative about something cushier there too. I never did do the ANR conversion but I've got 6 Softcomm sets in a box in the garage that would be excellent candidates. They came with an airplane I bought once. I'll probably convert one pair for the backseat of my S-7
Good work. Contractors most often put very little effort into that sort of thing but I think it will pay. Though we've given up for now, a few months back we had decided to move 60 miles down the road into more open country and build. In the end we never could find a piece of ground that wasn't covered with outlandish CCRs so we gave it up. In looking for a builder we finally found one after cruising neighborhoods and peeking in windows. They were retiring and taking no new work. Others I could tell from a lifetime in electrical construction didn't measure up plumb you know? The photos in our gallery would prompt negotiations thats for sure.