I have sent an email to the owner now and an invite to this forum. I also think that the incorrect assembled heim joint could be the cause. If it binds during full deflection, it could result in a fatigue break.
Hello all. Sorry for not responding. i have been away for christmas. It was not me flying this plane, I only got it sent to me on Yahoo group from a guy that's not so good at computers. This is a death trap. Its glued so its impossible to remove and inspect properly. If anyone have any suggestions how to inspect this without cutting and welding, I would very much appreciate it. Here is some info from him: To do the mod we bought 2 feet (use 1 foot each side) of 3/4 inch OD .095 wall thickness 4130 steel tube. Because the bellcrank is glued on to the aluminium spar tube it is impossible to remove it without damage so just cut the arm off the end of the steel tube. Cut as far out as possible so that the new one can be welded back on and the weld will be clear of the turtledeck bearing. Drill out all the rivets and clean out all the glue from inside the short steel tube and the aluminium spar tube. Turn down the 1 foot of 4130 steel tube so it will slide up inside the spar tube. The amount you turn off lengthwise will depend on how far the spar tube extends inside the stub of the bellcrank. Make up the new arm as shown in the photos including the short piece of 7/8 OD tube to make the assembly up to the same diameter as the bellcrank stub. Slide the assembly up inside the spar tube, position everything correctly and drill new rivet holes in the 1 foot tube. Remove again, clean everything thoroughly, then epoxy glue the new tube in place and replace all the rivets. We also put two rivets through the skin and spar tube of the flaperon near the end of the inserted tube. Finally put a ring of weld around the end of the bellcrank stub with plenty of wet rags to keep your new glue and the plastic hanger bearing cool. Before you cut the arm off the bellcrank you will need to make up some sort of a jig or take exact measurements so that the new assembly will end up in exactly the same place as the old one. The more people that know this is a potential problem the better. One thing I forgot to mention is that you must cut a small chamfer on the end of the mod tube that goes up inside the flaperon spar tube. Brianleach@farmside.co.nz
Thanks. I like the retractable belts, even if its a little unnecessary. The two piece thin alu sheets makes it possible to bend it a little to get is out easily. The leather makes it a little cosy. Under the sheets, there is attached a little angled profile next to the triangular tubings to hold the shelf in place. The gas strut brackets are just riveted to the door and fuselage. Nothing fancy but it works well. I believe its important that there is no play if you want to be able to fly with the doors open. I will try to remember to take some photos next time. I am also thinking about making a sailcloth /dacron cargo bag under the turtle deck. Just so that i can bring my sleeping bag and tent with me. I am not worried about the CG because I have flown with 10lb weight on the tailgear with great performance. I will just remove the tail weight when carrying load.
The hatrack and cargo box in my Avid Flyer C. Made out of synthetic leather glued on thin aluminium sheets. The box is as big it can be but still not interfering with the aileron pushrods at folded position. Perfect to store loose parts in the box and bags on the hatrack. The hatrack is easy removable to be able to fold wings. A cargo net could be used to secure the bags or stop them from falling on to your neck.