anders.stenhammar84@gmail.

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About anders.stenhammar84@gmail.

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  1. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Dual radiator?   

    So great success! The belly radiator performed really good! Today's flight test had ambient temp at 16C/60F. climbing 1200fpm at 50mph and still only 75C/167F water temp! But, at cruise the temp went down to 60C/140F. I think that the next step would be to install a thermostat. 
    I am very happy about this. I managed to reduce the empty weight more than 5kg/11lb of radiators, hoses and water. I also got the CG further back. 
    I noticed a higher cruise and more efficient elevator and lower stall speed! This forum is great!
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  2. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Dual radiator?   

    So now I have installed the belly radiator and removed the side radiator. I will test it this weekend. The right hose from the engine top has a T connection for the expansion bottle that also has a pressure filler cap on it. If this is not enough cooling I will mount  the rotax912 oil cooler parallel with the belly radiator. Hopefully that's not needed. 

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  3. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Dual radiator?   

    Very nice information. I actually have one of those radiators on the shelf from an other aircraft. I will mount it and see how it goes. Just need to buy some hoses. But does the hoses go straight up to the engine or is there any filler neck cap on the way?
     
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  4. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Dual radiator?   

    So now I have removed the small radiator and the WT is up at 80C at 20C ambient. 2kg lighter at the nose and a better flying aircraft. At climb I reached 90C. I guess next step would be to replace the side radiator with a belly radiator.
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  5. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Dual radiator?   

    My ambient temperatures are around 20C 68F. I think that the dual nose radiators would work fine if they had proper duct to lead the airflow and make use of the ram air pressure drop and consequently cooling effect. I have seen the old single mod C radiator work fine tighter with proper ducting. I will try to block the front radiator of after testing my water temp sensor in boiling water. My Kane was build in Italy and it's hotter there, so I guess the dual system as needed there.
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  6. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Dual radiator?   

    Yes, to primarily save weight but also to get the CG further back. I only get about 60C /140F in water temp. When I cover up the front radiator it doesn't get any hotter, so the water pump is pumping around a lot of unnecessary water. 
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  7. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic New float plane needs a 670   

    How did your Rotax Rick 670 work out for you? I think I will need one also when my 582 has done it's time.
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  8. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a topic in Avid Model C   

    Dual radiator?
    Hi all. My Avid 582 mod C has two radiators under the cowling. One smaller in front of the cylinders and one bigger at right side (extra cowling on the outside). This system is quite heavy and I would like to reduce it. I know about the mod about mounting a new radiator under the belly I front of the landing gear, but this is to big if a mod for now and I also don't want to loose the cabin heat system from the side mounted radiator. 
    I was thinking about removing the front radiator, has anyone else done that? Does anyone else even have two radiators? On my T-bird2 I only had one radiator and that was enough. On the other hand, the side mounted radiator isn't that efficient as a front mounted one... I guess I just try to remove the front one and see what happens to the water temp.
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  9. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Wing tank   

    I would maybe be interested. How much for them? I am rebuilding a pair of speedwings. Could you contact me on anders.stenhammar84@gmail.com ?
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  10. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a topic in Files and Forms   

    Avid Flyer Full Lotus rigg drawings
    This is the drawings from Norwegian Rolf Nossum webbpage http://rolf.nossum.net/avid/index.html
     
    Full_Lotus_Installation_Manual.pdf
    Water rudder Full Lotus.pdf
    Flottörställ - N-strut kalkylark.pdf
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  11. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Idle jet   

    The gearbox gear lash is also important for nice idle. Also, check the syncronization between the carbs. They need to be the same. Meaure the throttle opening. The prop must also be in ballance.
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  12. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Another Flapperon Failure   

    I have sent an email to the owner now and an invite to this forum. I also think that the incorrect assembled heim joint could be the cause. If it binds during full deflection, it could result in a fatigue break. 
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  13. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Flaperon Torque tube failure   

    Hello all.
    Sorry for not responding. i have been away for christmas. It was not me flying this plane, I only got it sent to me on Yahoo group from a guy that's not so good at computers. 
    This is a death trap. Its glued so its impossible to remove and inspect properly. If anyone have any suggestions how to inspect this without cutting and welding, I would very much appreciate it.
    Here is some info from him:
    To do the mod we bought 2 feet (use 1 foot each side) of 3/4 inch OD .095 wall thickness 4130 steel tube. Because the bellcrank is glued on to the aluminium spar tube it is impossible to remove it without damage so just cut the arm off the end of the steel tube. Cut as far out as possible so that the new one can be welded back on and the weld will be clear of the turtledeck bearing. Drill out all the rivets and clean out all the glue from inside the short steel tube and the aluminium spar tube. Turn down the 1 foot of 4130 steel tube so it will slide up inside the spar tube. The amount you turn off lengthwise will depend on how far the spar tube extends inside the stub of the bellcrank. Make up the new arm as shown in the photos including the short piece of 7/8 OD tube to make the assembly up to the same diameter as the bellcrank stub.  Slide the assembly up inside the spar tube, position everything correctly and drill new rivet holes in the 1 foot tube.  Remove again, clean everything thoroughly, then epoxy glue the new tube in place and replace all the rivets.  We also put two rivets through the skin and spar tube of the flaperon near the end of the inserted tube. Finally put a ring of weld around the end of the bellcrank stub with plenty of wet rags to keep your new glue and the plastic hanger bearing cool.  Before you cut the arm off the bellcrank you will need to make up some sort of a jig or take exact measurements so that the new assembly will end up in exactly the same place as the old one.  
    The more people that know this is a potential problem the better.  One thing I forgot to mention is that you must cut a small chamfer on the end of the mod tube that goes up inside the flaperon spar tube.  Brianleach@farmside.co.nz 



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  14. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a topic in Files and Forms   

    Flaperon Torque tube failure
    Continuing Airworthiness Notice - 27-012                  CAA of New Zealand.
    Avid and Kitfox fitted with flaperon.
    See attached report img057.pdf and images for report and notice.


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  15. anders.stenhammar84@gmail. added a post in a topic Putting speedwing on Mod C STOL   

    That sounds great! Yes as long as I do normal flying, it should be safe. 
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