I like this. It looks great. Any possibility of adding two more flap positions? Between zero and half and another between half and full? I added two more positions to my homemade Zenith flap handle and made it much more usable. I known my Avid doesn't have a real big flap range anyways. Just thought I would ask.
The Machinist and I are trying to solidify a plan to meet you down there. Have a safe trip. Here is my cell (five) 09- 59 (nine)- 9477. I have to put my plane back together Friday so if all goes well we should be able to make it down.
Yes, I've seen both used in the front but poly is the one most people go with. Plexi will shatter if hit. You will still get the stress cracks in the corners no matter what you use because of the tight radius in those corners. I used a heat gun to heat the bend area slightly which helped. There are a few different manufactures of the Poly. Ask the supplier which brand is the most scratch resistant, The last stuff I installed scratches very easy and I wont use it again.
I recently replaced my battery. I did a lot of looking around and went with the Odyssey Battery. Not as light as an Earth X but half the weight of a conventional battery and more than half the price of the Earth X. It has served me will the last year and didn't moss a beat after setting in the cold hangar all winter.
FredStork is correct. I flew this weekend to a fly-in and on the way home I let my passenger fly the plane. As soon as he took control of the plane I started to feel less comfortable. I have experienced this before also. When I got back into flying I was very uncomfortable. It's not near as bad now but I still get that feeling when I'm not the one in control of the plane.
Start with the easy stuff first. I go to great lengths to make my blades consistent in pitch. I raise the tail so the face of the prop hub is as close the 90 degrees to level as possible. Read the manufacturers pitch instructions to determine the exact location to take the pitch measurement. On my GSC it was 24 inches from the hub. On my Warp its at the tip. Once you locate that location use blue painters tape to mark the location on each blade. I have use an adjustable square to make the tape lines exact on each blade. When you check the angle of each blade the blade should parallel to the floor at a exact location each time. I use a level on the prop hub to place the blade 90 degrees to the floor then I adjust a painters stick (like the one use would use on a paint roller) to a length so I can roll either prop around and set the prop blade on top of the stick to bring it to the same location each time. Once I have all set up I determine a start pitch setting and use my calculator to figure out the correct reading on the electronic angle finder. Lets say you want 12 degrees. 90 degrees - 12 of pitch = 78 degrees. 78 will be the number you want to see on the electronic angle finder. Get a stool and set at the the end of the blade. Have the hub and blade bolts just tight enough to adjust the blades. Roll the first blade around and set in on the paint stick. Place the angle finder against the blue tape line and adjust the blade to 78 degrees. These angle finders are very sensitive so make small adjustments and let them settle. Roll the to the next blade and do the same. One you have both blades adjusted tighten the hub and blade per the instructions. It sounds like a lot of work but I assure you if you take the time the prop will run very true unless there is something else wrong. I have helped three guys adjust their blades ths way and they were amazed on how much smoother they ran. Here is a pic of the angle finder I use. If you have any questions PM me.