TJay that looks real good and sounds very time consuming. I worked on my door some tonight. I got the lift cylinder brackets welded to the door frames. They where riveted to my frames and very sloppy. Both doors are marks and I have one left to drill the new rivet holes into. Getting closer to being done.
Welcome to the Group Brodstol. I'm in Post Falls, Idaho and would love to help any way I can. I'll send you a Private message with my contact information. I'll be flying out your way this spring. I have a hangar in Lind, Wa.
wypaul, Are you happy with the bubble doors? For what its going to cost to tool this up it may be more cost effective to just buy a set. I'm still going to talk to my guy about making a set just for the learning aspect. Jared, Try taking a regular hair dryer and applying a little heat to one corner and see if that softens the film. If you can get it to lift keep applying heat to the area where it is lifting and work it off the surface. I've done this before and it works good.
I got the last two Poly door panels cut out and cleaned up last night. I've learned a few things about cutting and cleaning these panels. I will for sure do the next set much faster. I will talk to my EAA guy and see when we can start making the molds for the bubble doors. Joey said the LP bubble doors are petty thick and heavy. My current doors are 1/16. I'm thinking that 3/32 or 1/8 my be needed for the bubble doors to give them rigidity after forming.
I’ve heard you guys mention his before. I suppose a good quality plywood like the rib material would work good for something like this. What kind of epoxy is used for this upgrade? Glad you like the lights. I have been looking at more light options and came upon these. They are a Flood and Spot combo light. They may be perfect for this application. Yodoko 7 Inch 60V 40W LED Work Light Bar Flood Spot Combo Driving Lights Fog Lamp Off-Road Lighting for SUV UTE ATV Truck Car,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4S8PUR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tsGlAbAD6QJJH
I already drilled a few rivet holes in the Lexan. I used the old panels to make the new parts so they should be close to fitting. I will mount them up and see how they look. If for some reason they need adjusted I should be able to cut or adjust it enough to make it work. There is a learning curve to this project for sure. Thank you for all the input. Does anyone know where or who made the bubble lexan??
Well.......I'm not sure but it sounds feasible. When I was laying this out is was apparent that the lower section had a lot more compound curve than the top. I was going to try and make mine one piece but when I found out I did not have enough Poly it made me change directions. The 3M tape and a few rivets should work fine. It's not hard to drill through the Poly and hit the holes underneath once it is in place. I drill the rivet holes over one letter size for expansion and contraction. If you were to stick the Poly down you would not be able to adjust it or take it back off to enlarge the holes . You would have to make sure and leave sufficient material around the edges and there would be a lot of trimming and fitting to do after as each door opening is different.
TJay, No, i went with two piece at the direction of another builder and because I didn't have enough Lexan left over after making the windshield to make them one piece without buying a whole other sheet. I'm using the 3M tape with less rivets than the original doors had. After looking at the tape I went with more rivets that i had originally planned to because the tape was not at strong as I expected. We have a guy in the local area who forms Lexan for various projects. I have been thinking about making a mold for bubble Lexan doors. I'm wondering if someone would be interested in a set of I had a few made??? Attached is a picture of a set of bubble doors on a Mark IV. I would love to know who made these and see if they had the molds.