They hung them upside down because of too little offset on the Rotax gearbox and so they could be cowled like a conventional airplane. If the engine was upright the oil would accumulate in the bottom of the engine because the fuel/oil charge enters through the side of the crankcase and not the head.
Skypics is right. I about ground looped my plane once when my foot slipped in behind that center bar while trying to get a landing straightened out. That was a bad design. I am going to put a fence on the peddle to give my foot an edge to set against so it wont slip off.
I cant believe my luck!! I found the exact part I was going to buy pieces to make. Just under $20 a piece but I would have just as much or more into them if I had to buy and fabricate them myself. This company also sells other items for small heater systems. The company (UPI) sells Recreational Vehicle (Side by Side) heater and radiator supplies.
After doing a little research on the hoses needed to tap into the existing water hoses for my heater core I found that the heater hoses on the 582 are 22 mm (7/8). Most of you saw the recent post on the GT 500 Quicksilver crash where they determined the cause of the engine stoppage to be the lack of water in the system due to a leaking hose. I believe this was caused by using 1'' hose on a 22 mm inlet/outlet. When I was installing my radiators last summer I could not find 22 mm hose anywhere locally. I had to order it online from Pegasus Racing before finally finding an outlet locally. So now I have these cool 22 mm silicone heater hoses on my plane and now I need to tap into them. 1" x 1" x 5/8 will not work. There use to be a heater sold on Aircraft Spruce called the neat heater. It was a neat little set up but very expensive. Over $400 for the unit and and $250 for the kit to connect it to he plane. The kit amounted to a bunch of hose clamps, hose connectors, tee's, water shut off, switch and wiring harness. When I started this project I saved a few photos of the neat heater. One of the photos had some custom made aluminum tee's. it looks like they bought the aluminum connectors and had them tig welded so they were the correct size. 22 mm x 22 mm x 16 mm (7/8 x 7/8 x 5/8). My plan is to buy the components and fabricate some correct tee's for my system unless I can find someone who already makes these. So far not luck.
A lot of strong opinions based on an improper measurement method. Anyone who has used a set of calipers for a living knows this is an inaccurate way to measure a tube hence a total misrepresentation of the actual damage.
Tjay, I would love to hear what you think about this propeller. Did you get a two or three blade. I email them about getting one sent to the USA. Did you order from them direct or through a distributor?
I’m sure plenty people use longer probes but there is instructions on how to shim them out so the probe tip stays in the center of the pipe and plenty of articles related to proper probe placement in the cone of the flame. When I went to the leading aviation supply store to order probes they did not offer suggested lengths for specific applications. It took reading the Rotax install manual along with Rotax tuning articles from various sources to make the simple conclusion that it comes down to probe type, where it needs to be in the system and how far it needs to be from the skirt of the piston. I always buy direct if it saves me a few dollars and when I went to the Westach site it offered shorter (1/2 inch) probes that the other distributors didn’t. An email to them confirmed this probe would have the proper needed reading for my gauge and application. Plugs still reading good color as before and the gauge now shows a reading that matches what the plugs say. I’m happy with my outcome. To each their own.
Here are some thoughts and ideas. If you look around (believe it was the Avid building manual) there are directions on installing the longer probes. They call for 7 AN3 washers to be placed on the probe to shim it out. I would not worry about the probe cooling because the washers are in direct contact with the pipe and should insulate the exposed portion of the probe. I was going to shim mine out but I had cut the excess tail off of the clamp when I first installed them (big weight savings) . Once the washers were installed the clamp was to short. I got on the Westach web site and found that they make the same series of probe with a half inch long probe. I ordered new probes and they work perfect. If I had to do this all again I would replace the Westach with a Micro 1000 from Aircraft Spruce. I have ran them before on other planes. They work great and self adjust for ambient temperature so the probes read correctly all the time. I was on a budget at the time and figured new probes for the Westach were cheaper than a whole new gauge. After it was all said and done I ended up spending money for two sets of probes and didn’t save much money over a new gauge.