I cant believe my luck!! I found the exact part I was going to buy pieces to make. Just under $20 a piece but I would have just as much or more into them if I had to buy and fabricate them myself. This company also sells other items for small heater systems. The company (UPI) sells Recreational Vehicle (Side by Side) heater and radiator supplies.
After doing a little research on the hoses needed to tap into the existing water hoses for my heater core I found that the heater hoses on the 582 are 22 mm (7/8). Most of you saw the recent post on the GT 500 Quicksilver crash where they determined the cause of the engine stoppage to be the lack of water in the system due to a leaking hose. I believe this was caused by using 1'' hose on a 22 mm inlet/outlet. When I was installing my radiators last summer I could not find 22 mm hose anywhere locally. I had to order it online from Pegasus Racing before finally finding an outlet locally. So now I have these cool 22 mm silicone heater hoses on my plane and now I need to tap into them. 1" x 1" x 5/8 will not work. There use to be a heater sold on Aircraft Spruce called the neat heater. It was a neat little set up but very expensive. Over $400 for the unit and and $250 for the kit to connect it to he plane. The kit amounted to a bunch of hose clamps, hose connectors, tee's, water shut off, switch and wiring harness. When I started this project I saved a few photos of the neat heater. One of the photos had some custom made aluminum tee's. it looks like they bought the aluminum connectors and had them tig welded so they were the correct size. 22 mm x 22 mm x 16 mm (7/8 x 7/8 x 5/8). My plan is to buy the components and fabricate some correct tee's for my system unless I can find someone who already makes these. So far not luck.
A lot of strong opinions based on an improper measurement method. Anyone who has used a set of calipers for a living knows this is an inaccurate of a way to measure a tube hence a total misrepresentation of the actual damage.
Tjay, I would love to hear what you think about this propeller. Did you get a two or three blade. I email them about getting one sent to the USA. Did you order from them direct or through a distributor?
I’m sure plenty people use longer probes but there is instructions on how to shim them out so the probe tip stays in the center of the pipe and plenty of articles related to proper probe placement in the cone of the flame. When I went to the leading aviation supply store to order probes they did not offer suggested lengths for specific applications. It took reading the Rotax install manual along with Rotax tuning articles from various sources to make the simple conclusion that it comes down to probe type, where it needs to be in the system and how far it needs to be from the skirt of the piston. I always buy direct if it saves me a few dollars and when I went to the Westach site it offered shorter (1/2 inch) probes that the other distributors didn’t. An email to them confirmed this probe would have the proper needed reading for my gauge and application. Plugs still reading good color as before and the gauge now shows a reading that matches what the plugs say. I’m happy with my outcome. To each their own.
Here are some thoughts and ideas. If you look around (believe it was the Avid building manual) there are directions on installing the longer probes. They call for 7 AN3 washers to be placed on the probe to shim it out. I would not worry about the probe cooling because the washers are in direct contact with the pipe and should insulate the exposed portion of the probe. I was going to shim mine out but I had cut the excess tail off of the clamp when I first installed them (big weight savings) . Once the washers were installed the clamp was to short. I got on the Westach web site and found that they make the same series of probe with a half inch long probe. I ordered new probes and they work perfect. If I had to do this all again I would replace the Westach with a Micro 1000 from Aircraft Spruce. I have ran them before on other planes. They work great and self adjust for ambient temperature so the probes read correctly all the time. I was on a budget at the time and figured new probes for the Westach were cheaper than a whole new gauge. After it was all said and done I ended up spending money for two sets of probes and didn’t save much money over a new gauge.
My cabin heat quest has started. After looking and measuring a few options I ordered the 6 hole unit off of Amazon. With my Discover points I got it for $45. It will take a month to get here because its coming from China. This unit is roughly 8" x 6" x 3.5". The only thing I need to find is a heater hose tee for 1" x 1" x 5/8. Right now I have found three options. It looks like I will be paying as much for the fitting as I will for the heater unit. Granted the heater unit is pretty cheap. The 6 ports on the sides are 2". I would like to find some plastic nozzles that will fit over the outlets with adjustable fins so I can aim the airflow in different directions. I figure the rear two can aim up under the panel towards the window, the middle two can aim out the sides and the front two can aim towards the center of each seat. Now if I can just find a nozzle that will work. The plan is to mount this with the hose inlet/outlet pointing back towards the firewall up as close to the underside of the panel as possible. I'm not sure what kind of brackets I will need to make but I'm planning to make the whole unit removable so I can install it late fall and remove it again mid spring. If anyone has any suggestions or know where to find parts I would love the input.
I have the stock dual cheek radiators on my Mark IV. I am not near my plane and need the hose size. Does anyone remember what size the hoses are that run from each side of the engine back to the radiators?? I'm trying to order the hose tee's to install my new heater.
Agree Clouddancer. I do not believe that plane was getting a water temp reading before the flight. That had to be the worst run up I’ve ever seen. I run at 3000 until the water temp comes alive then to 3500 until the water temp gets to green. I will taxi out (I have a ways to go) at 3500 to 4000 rpm. I run my mag check at 4500 and run a full minute at 5500 before take-off. One thing he mentioned during the investigation that has me stumped is that the idle jets had no orings. Mine does not have one either. It specifically says on the Aircraft Spruce Bing 54 website that one is not required. I cross checked it with the Bing web site and the 54 diagram does not show an oring either.
I went with bolts in three locations. I have built and repaired several things through the years and i'm not a fan of pull rivets into wood. If the rivet goes clear through the structure and uses metal or a backing washer then I would use them. I will post a picture of how I installed the bolts.
I agree with JeroneF, Another option to consider. These planes benefit from a leading edge cuff. The leading edge cuff adds material to the leading edge of the wing to sharpen the leading edge and makes the wing more efficient. I talked to Steven Henry about this and he said it was one of the best upgrades to these tube LE wings. I'm not sure how they attach but it might be worth checking out. Steve could give you more information I'm sure.
I would start by removing the fabric around damaged area and clean any glue off with some M.E.K. I would remove the scratches with a 3M pad in an airtool and smooth it out to the point that you would consider recovering it. I'm not sure the depth of the scratch can be measured effectively the way you show in the picture. You would have to take a measurement of the undamaged pipe and compare it with another measurement at the damage site. At face value I don't see this as major repair. If the tube is not dented and they are .085 wall thickness you still have a lot of strength there. But like others have mentioned......its your ass so you need to feel right about the repair,
After completing my plane I had a very heavy stick and heavier roll rate. After checking the flaperon rigging I found one was reflexed to 4.3 and the other was 1.6. I had accidentally reversed the adjusting rods. After resetting them both reflexed to 2 degrees it flies like a dream and the roll rate is fast and responsive. The only reason I have not tried one more degree is because it flies so good now I dont want to mess with it. Don't be afraid to reflex the flaperons. The Zenith 701 was also found to benefit from reflexed flaperons.
Fuel is the lubrication for a two stroke as the oil in mixed with fuel. Starting fluid (ether) is a highly flammable product but also acts like parts cleaner by washing any oil off the surface of the cylinder walls leaving a non lubricated surface just before that piston goes to 3000 RPM. I use to work as a diesel mechanic and have seen people literally wipe the cross hatching off the cylinder walls using ether. It's just not a good idea.