LSaupe

Actually, I need the gears, prop-shaft, bearings and seals.  All excessive corrosion damage.  The total is more than a new box.  The outside of the box (casing) looks shiny new actually.

Thanks T.J. I made initial contact.

Thanks ChrisB.  For reference my prop is a 3 blade in case that makes any difference.

Thanks, I will check it out.

I soon need to order a new C box for my 582.  I willbe running the OEM GSC prop (came with a Kitfox III) for the near term, then hope to head towards an IVO or similar down the road.

My engine was originally equipped with a 3.0 ratio.  Is this the best ratio for a GSC, or would it make sense to move to a 2.6X ratio?

Anyone run a GSC with a 2.6x ratio box on a 582?

Thought I would jump in here.  Just pulled off the paper on my Model III windhsield and find the wing root corners have crazying about 4" long.  Other than cosmetic is this a real concern (i.e. cannot be flown as is).  It is 0.100" thick acrylic.

If a replacement is required, any pro's and cons on Lexan vice Acrylic?  Sounds like preheating might be the way to go to prevent future crazing?

Thanks for the replies.  Yep, it is the nut end.  It will clear if I reverse.  I was trying to avoid this (to keep from snagging the nut and cotter on feet.  Sounds like you have tried this and it really isnt a concern, so will give it a go.

It worked everywhere.  Found it goes even faster of you place a gell soaked paper towel betweeb the plexi and the saran wrap.  Let it sit for several hours and everything wipes right off.

Thanks for all the feedback.  I think they actually look like this:

Looking for a nice set of used counterweights (or NOS) for a KF Model III.

Please drop me a line if you have a set you are willing to part with.

Larry S.

All great feedback.  DHolly thanks for the pics!

Wing tips (droop style Model III).  Do these but up to the outboard wing rib surface (via maybe a attach plate, wing screws go into this plate) or do these actually go over the rib (I.e. wingtip screws go right into the outboard rib)?

The instruction seem to indicate the wingtips actually encapsulate the rib.  Just want to make sure. 

Anyone have a few pics they could post?

Many thanks,

Larry S.

I added three inches to the cord and also used the HIghwing LLC trim kit.  Went together real well.

Nice work.  Any more updates?

Thanks for the replies, great info.  Wings have not yet been painted, si it does help things a bit.  Yes, will bve using reinforcing tapes and new finish tapes after.

Getting ready to rib stitch and see that I just cant lay out the same distances on the top vice the bottom (as I had hoped), due to the significant differences in arc length.  How do you guys typically hadle this?  At first pass I am thinking about laying out the bottom and them thansferring the top holes by putting a pointer through the bottom holes with a device to keep the pointer normal to the bottom surface.

How is this typically accomplished?

Great Vid

Great stuff.  Many thanks.

Have any of you done rib stitching with the wing vertical, vice flat.  By vertical I mean having the leading edge down and trailing edge up.  Wife nor I can take much bending over so am looking at this as an option.

Also, I would to make a wing rotisery and was thinking maybe PVC pipe inserted into the spars and some PVC T's to make a spin axle in each end (effectively a very stubby PVC pipe fork).  Anyone have working feedback on building one? 

Getting ready for a bi-annual (havent flown in a long time, like 2 years ). I see that the 3 mile vis requirement is still there for Sport Pilots in class G.  Any idea why this is (when ultralight pilots, private pilots have only 1 mile)?

Can you rib stitch after perimeter tapes have been installed (can this be done without needing to reaccomplish perimeter tapes), or do I buy into adding another layer of perimeter tapes to the wings?

Seems odd that they only recommend and show (in the videos) a charcole respirator.  Is there something out of whack here?

Great feedback guys.  Many thanks.  Yep, I do have the CD's from Stewart.  Watched them several times through teh covering process. Now need to do the same with the painting.  Did watch them one and see the pass speed is faster than I am used to (more like a fast fog in a way).

This one actually is used in the Automotive world.

http://www.amazon.com/Earlex-HV5500-Spray-Station/dp/B004RGOKR2#productDetails