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  1. Anybody have 3/4 axles Grove Axles taking up precious space in their parts bin they'd like to turn into cash?  
    I have Douglas wheels and Matco brakes and need the axles to mate up to the Grove gear.
  2. I have the stock Gear from a Tricycle gear Avid MK 4. Nose wheel, stock gear and a tail wheel. Includes all of the gear in the pics, brakes, tires, wheels, wheel pants and bungie's. All brand new, unused. 
    $850 OBO
    208-310-0151





  3. Any point in installing a second caliper?
    In theory, with the pressure provided from pressing the brake cylinder being the same, adding a second caliper would give half the pressure power per caliper, compared to signle caliper, and therefore the same brake power. The only difference being that the brake power is spread over double the brake pad surface. As long as the brakes are not heating too much the brake power should remain approximately the same.
    In theory - but theory and reality does not always align... 
    I'm looking for real life experience in adding a second caliper (while not alos changing the rest of the installation).
    Did it make any difference? Nop, a little, some, night and day...
     
  4. I recently reconditioned my MATCO brake set up on my MK4. 
    I have double pucks. 
    The right side was blead the way I usually do it. From the bleed valve I attached my oil pumper can. Open the bleed valve and pump like mad till the reservour fills up Then empty the reservour and repeat until all the bubbles are gone.
    Worked just fine on the right brake but we couldn't get the bubbles seen between the two pucks to move out of position. We tried to have someone push on the brake and then we'd open the bleed valve. This didn't work. So I bought the vaccum bleeder from Harbor Freight And tried to suck the fluid up to the reservour with a supply of hyd fluid at the bleed valve. No luck. 
    I had given up for the day when a friend said he'd like to try his method. He has hyd fluid in a small pump up garden sprayer. He hooked it to the bleed valve,piuuiumped up some pressure, pressed the trigger and I stood by at the reservour to catch the overflow. This method moves the fluid through the system that it easily moved the bubbles out of the system. I do NOT like working on brakes.
    Final results: I can run the Jabiru up to 2800 RPM and holding the brakes can lift the tail off the ground. So now I finally have sufficient brakes on my Avid, but not so good to cause a nose-over in a panic.
    John M
     
  5. I eventually got the master cylinder reconditioning kit from Matco  and I have to say I have found Matco a very helpful company to deal with.
    I think that I should re new the white seal that gets crushed in between the brass fittings to join the brake pipe to the master cylinder.
    My question is where can I get these seals in the UK? getting deliveries from the USA have been difficult after they arrive in the UK mainly because of Border force and Parcel force taking and extra 10 days to process after paying their charges!
     

  6. Guys I need one of these and it's difficult to get one in the UK I think the standard part number is F6446 and it's the old style Matco MSCF6446. I am still waiting for some parts from Matco and they have advised to source more locally as their minimum postage makes this an expensive item and one that will take a while to get here. So I would be grateful if any one can show me where I can get one quicker and cheaper than Matco.

  7. Does anyone have a source for the original mechanical (cable) brakes?  My left hub has been / is dragging on the outer surface of the brake assembly.