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  1. Does anyone have any experience with using a fuel air ratio gauge, like an AEM 30-4110, on a two stroke? Thanks Brad
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/274327127100?epid=1130294172&hash=item3fdf2bc43c:g:WuIAAOSw3uleRVc7&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsDBJIi25bIVIjeoDyZ1sQoEE8SpiQ%2Fg5tFal%2F2d1K9f1IpOEbhfT22PuhHqMU4U7fGy0E41d6uTb%2FNFCTXJ%2FG1dAXsOyFArsPtdQw11h47%2F3qtR3iM62xKIsuY10L139bxskN4m54%2FXkYxr404QlHkUV%2BZjaN198DQ6kGomWVLP7GYuYWRfnTdhFMhUi9S2MdYapDyw%2BJNt41rT1fXM2JRjFNNWQ3Ru4MgZOy1S17I%2FH|tkp%3ABk9SR9SkyOXhYA
  2. Hey Everyone,
    It's been a while since I've posted in here, and a while since I've been able to work on my Avid projects. My main project is a model C that I'm pretty much completely rebuilding.
    I found a Rotax 503 locally, and I've read that there are a few Avids out there with 503s (Bandit for one). I like the idea of a simple air cooled engine. I understand performance wouldn't be spectacular. I'd be flying out of a 3000' asphault runway. I'm about 160, and plan to mostly haul my kids around for rides. I have a few questions for the 2 stroke Rotax experts though.
    1. Could my 582 motor mount be modified to fit the 503?
    2. What prop would you recommend. I'd like a ground adjustable, but don't know which brand, what diameter, or how many blades would be best for the 503.
    3. Are there any 503 models that I should avoid (I can see that it has 4 plugs in the pictures).
    4. Anything else to know before I go look at it?
    I plan to get a look in the intake and exhaust ports for scoring. Anything else?
    Thanks,
    Luke
  3. Post on ISO an exhaust in Kitfox III

    By Cameronx26, posted
    Looking for a used but in good condition rotax 912ul exhaust for my Kitfox 3! Lmk what you got call or text 615 891 8 five seven seven 
  4. Looking for a good exhaust for my Kitfox model iii with a rotax 912ul on it!
     Call or text me 615 891 eight five seven seven
  5. I’ve been getting as much time in the air as I reasonably can, since I got signed off to solo. It’s all been within a 25 mile radius. I’d have to go further to find something less beautiful. It looks tropical, with the pale blue water of the glacier-fed lake. https://youtu.be/mP2QAMC01Ww
  6. For over 7 years we have been manufacturing and selling belt drives, starters, etc. for rotax, Honda, Suzuki and other engines up to 250 hp. For more information, write to aerotechnik.service@gmail.com
     

















  7. I have the header, gaskets, and springs, but I'm missing everything else. Anyone got one for sale or know where I can pick one up? 
  8. Airmaster Propeller Hub, Two pair of Warp Drive Blades-68" dia, spinner and manual. The blades were new in 1995 and have never been used. This prop and blades came in the Avid Flyer package that I purchased recently and will not work for my project.  The hub, I am told fits a Rotax gearbox flange.  That is all I know about this.  I am told that it should be worth $750, if not, make me an offer. Don't wait. I am also putting it on Barnstormers.  If it doesn't sell pretty quick I'll put it on eBay. Give me a call or text at 208-631-1425 or drop me an e-mail at bradnsx@gmail.com
    Thanks for looking,
    Brad
    Brad
  9. Without starting a debate about engines that don’t need it, here is a cheap and effective way to rig up carb heat. It requires only hand tools to build. Including prep time and layout, it took me six hours to make. I had the sheet metal and the heat muff already, so my only cost was $12 for the control cable. Estimated cost for all the materials is less than $100.
    Here is the finished product:
     


    The cable actuates a flapper door to select one of two outlets. One outlet goes to the carb, the other to cabin heat. The inlet air comes from the heat muff on the muffler. The diverter box could also be used select defrost or floor heat, or hot or cold air.
    Tools and Materials:
    12” x 18” of .025” 2024 T3 aluminum
    1/8” aluminum pop rivets, 1/8” & 1/4” lengths
    Heat muff for the exhaust
    5 feet of 1-1/2 inch diameter high temp hose
    16 penny galvanized nail
    2”x 3-1/4” 20 gauge galvanized steel
    (2) 1/2” #6 machine screws with lock nuts
    (5) 1-3/4” hose clamps
    Bench vise
    Drill
    Drill bits
    1-1/2” hole saw 
    Tin snips
    Hand seamer 
    Hand riveter
    Flat metal file
    Pliers
    Screwdriver
    hack saw
    1” diameter pipe, tubing, or dowel
    NAPA choke cable
    Wire-feed welder 
    Steel welding wire 
    The process:
    I will attach more pics for clarification of these confusing directions. It is not as hard as I make it sound. Currently only able to load one pic. I’ll load the rest when I’m able.
     
    Cut four pieces of T3 at 5-1/8” x 1-1/2. Mark at 4-9/16”. Bend each piece around the 1” pipe to round it into a 1-1/2” long x 1-1/2” o.d. tube. Use the hand seamer to finish the radius on the ends. Overlap the end to the mark that you made. Use a hose clamp in the middle to hold it at the right diameter, drill and install two rivets in the seam. It should fit tightly in a 1-1/2 hole, and the heater hose should slide on tight. Make parallel cuts 1/2” apart, 1/2” long, up from one end. This 1/2” will bend out to make a tab which will be used to rivet it to the body of the diverter box. Make three tabs, equally spaced,  on one end of each tube. Bend them up very carefully, using the pliers. Spread the bend out a bit. The tabs will break right off if you just pinch and bend. 
    Cut a flange out of T3 for the air filter, as seen in the picture. It should be about 8” square. I angled the top corners down from the rivets. Snip 1/8” off the corners at a 45°, and round them with the file. Do that on all the sharp corners. Brake it 90° at 2-1/2 inches, clamped between two pieces of wood in the vise. Use the hole saw to cut a hole in the center of the short side. Attach one of the 1-1/2 hose fittings by sliding the short end into the hole, tight to the three tabs, then drill and rivet in place. Mark 2-1/2” up from the 90, drill and rivet the plate to the back of the air filter with four rivets, with the bottom of the air filter at the mark, leaving 2-1/2” gap to the 90° flange.

    Mark out the diverter box. One piece will make the bottom and sides. A second piece will be the top. I’ll post more pics to make this part clearer. The box is two inches deep. One end of the box is two inches wide. It is four inches long. The other end is four inches wide. Take a 9” square of T3. Measure 2-1/2 inches from the edge, and mark the shape of the box. Mark 2-1/2” out from both sides and the ends, parallel to the sides of the box. The sides of the ends should be 1/2” longer than the bottom, to wrap around the sides. That is, the bottom and sides are one piece, and it all folds up, with the ends wrapping over the sides to be riveted together. Mark 1/2” from the top of each side. Brake the sides up 90° from the bottom of the box. Brake the 1/2” at the top 90° down, to the inside, parallel to to bottom. This is the flange to which the top will mount. Brake the 1/2” ends around the sides, drill, and rivet in place. Mark center on the short, 2” square end, and put the hole saw there. On the opposite end, mark and cut two holes with the hole saw, 1” on center from each side. Rivet one of the hose adapters in each of the three holes.


    At the long end of the box, top and bottom, centered, and tight to the end, drill a hole to fit the 16D galvanized nail through. One hole will be on the bottom, and one will be on the flange at the top. This is for the flapper hinge. Cut 2-5/8” x 2” from the 20 ga. galvanized sheet. Radius the corners. It should fit tightly to one side of the nail. Trim the tight spots so it fits easily when it pivots to either side, without much gap. Allow the head of the nail to have some end play so it doesn’t bind. Tack weld the flapper securely to the nail. I used L56 .025”. Test to make sure it has free and full movement. 
     


    Cut the top of the box. You could trace the bottom, or mark it 2-4x4. Cut it 1/8” small, and the edge won’t stick out. Cut a notch in the long end to clear the nail. Nip and file to clean up and smooth the edges. Making sure the box is straight, not warped, drill for two rivets on each side, through the top, into the flange beneath it, placed so they do not interfere with the movement of the flapper, and rivet it in place.
    Cut 3/4 x 1-1/2 from the remaining scrap of galvanized sheet. Use the hand seamer to bend it into a U shape, the short way, so you have a 1-1/2” long stick of 1/4” channel. Drill a hole in one end to fit over the nail. Drill one or more holes in the other end to attach the cable.  Fit this actuator lever over the nail, in line with the flapper, leaving 1/8”-3/16” space between the top of the box and the lever, and tack weld it to the nail. Cut off the end of the nail above the lever, using the hack saw.
    Cut 1-1/2” square and another piece, 1/2 x 3/4”, from the T3. Make a 1/2” cut, 1/2” in from one side. Brake it 90° down along that line, then carefully bend the cut end out about 60°. This is the cable mount. Bend the small piece slightly to fit the cable housing, clamping over top of it. Again, using caution to avoid interference with the flapper, rivet the cable mount to the base with three rivets; two on top and one through the tab on the side. It should be placed so the cable is at the proper place and angle to push and pull the actuator lever through its full range of motion. Position the top clamp, drill, and attach with the two #6 machine screws. 


    Attach hose from heat muff to box inlet. Attach hoses from the two outlets, one to the carb heat, the other to cabin heat. Mount the air cleaner, mount the box (not blocking flapper travel with any hardware), mount the cable.
  10. I just diagnosed this most irritating problem and hoped that this solution might benefit some others. 
    The 503 in my Kitfox is fresh. It’s jetted right. It has new spark plugs. It has new points. The point gap and timing is good. It has good spark. It has good compression. It has good fuel.
    I trailered it to the airpark for some taxi time, but when I got it off the trailer, the number two cylinder (the rear cylinder) was not firing right. I messed with it for a couple hours, but the same thing kept happening. The rear cylinder would miss, then eventually go completely dead. The evidence of this was plain, with low egt and cht on the number two cylinder. The number two spark plug was wet with fuel, while the other was dry. I didn’t have spare plugs with me, but it had a great spark at both plugs. I took both plugs out and spun it over to blow the fuel out. I switched the plugs. I eventually pushed it back to the trailer because it kept doing the same thing. I could clear the cylinder, dry the plug, fire it up, but it would immediately start missing on number two, and eventually that cylinder would stop firing completely. 
    I replaced the new NGK B8ES spark plugs with brand new NGK BR8EIX iridium plugs. I checked the carbs and floats. The float needles were properly in place and the floats were floating in the fuel in the bowl, when removed. I pulled out the slides and checked the needles. I lifted up the tail, to level the plane, and fuel came out of the air filter. The fuel valve was off. I double checked the jets, floats, and needles. All good. I started to remove the engine to see if the points were arcing, but the spark looked good, so I put it back together. The points are brand new, with only one hour on the points. The manual recommends readjusting them after ten hours, because they will wear where the cam lifts the breaker to open it. Knowing the gap would be lessening as it wore in, I made the initial adjustment toward the upper end of the range, giving them a wide gap. Certain that the carbs were properly set up, I surmised that it may have flooded the engine while bouncing down the road on the trailer. Being tilted back, the fuel would flood the back cylinder. This was not the case. I put a torch to it and made sure there was no gas in the cylinders. I put it back together. Same thing. Fired up, starts missing, number two takes a number two. So, back to the points. I started taking the engine off again. As I worked, I noticed gas on the floor beneath me. The fuel valve was off. The fuel lines, I left connected, and removed the carbs from the engine. They weren’t leaking out of the vent tubes or overflow. I had taken the primer hoses off of the nipples on the intakes, and it was dripping. I had noticed before that the primer seems to push the fuel back and forth a bit, instead of a steady push in one direction, but the primer had been working, and the engine had been running fine, so I hadn’t thought much more about it. The fuel to the primer isn’t shut off with the fuel valve. There is a tee on the bottom of the panel tank. One side of the tee goes to the valve, the other side goes to the primer. I capped off the fittings and plugged the primer hose. I put everything back on the engine and put the cowl back on. The engine fired up and ran great. Thank God for little things. If this had happened in the air, it would have been a forced landing. Even if the fuel valve could have shut off the fuel to the primer, it wouldn’t have kept it from dripping while the fuel was on. It’s pretty hard to start cold, without the primer.  If I rebuild the primer, I’ll put a fuel valve inline, so I can shut off the fuel to just the primer, so it’s never a problem. Because the plane was tilted back, whether on the trailer or on the ground, the fuel was dripping into the back cylinder and flooding it out. Inflight, it could have drowned them both out. On one cylinder, I could keep it running, but it wasn’t pulling hard enough to move under its own power. Putting in a valve to shut off the primer while it’s running would be a good move, even if you’ve never had a problem. Mine was fine for over thirty years, until that one day it wasn’t. It would be the same with a dual ignition. It was great to hear how smoothly it ran, once I figured it out. Now I have another project to work on, but it’s huge load off my mind. 
  11. I ended up with a E-Box(3:1) with an engine i purchased. It look in perfect shape except the starter was junk(rusted out) I would like to sell it or  do some trading that includes a prov 8 B-box. the E box it complete except the starter. all of the ext case bolts have bee replaced and the gear box will be sealed up and fogged until it is sent to its new home. 
     
    Bobby
    682-597-2169 text anytime
  12. Does anyone know where I can buy a new Rotax C gearbox?
  13. Hello All. I am a new member here, and I wanted to introduce myself. I have been an aviation enthusiast my whole life, and I now I am FINALLY working on actually building and flying my own plane. I just bought a Yamaha RX1 with 250 miles on it. I intend to use the engine is some form of a Kitfox/Rans/or Highlander custom build. My goals are safety, low build cost and operating costs (I'm a middle class father), and a fun factor. Being new at this, I am happy to learn from all of you. I will be harvesting the RX1 motor within the next few weeks. So you all can school me. I am an engineer by profession, and I do know some about airplane physics, so I can speak the language, but you all have the valuable experience. I have a lot to learn about which airplane to build, how to mount the Yamaha engine, how to weld up mounts (I have a TIG welder), which gearbox is the most dependable, etc... I look forward to learning and sharing with you guys/gals..
  14. Hey guys,
    Thank you for taking the time to read this post.
    Here is the question. "IF" there was a 447 or 503 style engine avail with all the upgrades, Ceramic coated cylinders, Plastic covers to reduce weight, Hybrid composite materials to lighten components, same mounting points, same provision 8, same exhaust system, upgraded ignition system, and B, C, and E style gear boxes... how many people would be interested?
    We are considering to make a 447 or 503 style engine again but first would like to poll the community and see if it is worth the investment.
    We are also looking for people who have extensive repair knowledge of this engine so we can make the necessary improvements that are needed for aircraft use. 
    We are also currently working on an Air cooled 63hp, 570cc engine with provision 8 and other mounting points to accept all ROTAX or SPG3 or 4 gear boxes.
     
     
  15. Looking for a Rotax 912 for my Avid MK4. Preferably 100hp.
    Hopefully complete.
    Thank you 
  16. I have a 2012 Rotax 912 ULS for sale with original logbook, no damage history and 8.2 hours since new.  I originally bought this for my Kitfox 7, but have decided to go with a new engine with warranty, ring mount included etc.  Asking price is $14,900 and is negotiable.  Engine was last run in summer of 2018.  Ad is also on Barnstormers.
  17. Every year in the month of June Blue Ridge Community College hosts training for Rotax Service/Maintenance. Please see below for information.
    Blue Ridge Community College (Weyers Cave, VA) will be offering courses in Rotax Service and Maintenance for 9-Series this summer. The Service Class will be held 4-5 June 2019 and the Maintenance Class will be held 6-7 June 2019. The classes are taught by Dean Vogel from Lockwood Aviation. http://training.lockwood.aero/
    Please call 540-453-2372 or 540-453-2215 to register for Rotax Service/Maintenance classes or use the links to sign up online:
    - Rotax Service Training (https://brcc.augusoft.net/index.cfm?method=ClassInfo.ClassInformation&int_class_id=10558)
    - Rotax Maintenance Training (https://brcc.augusoft.net/index.cfm?method=ClassInfo.ClassInformation&int_class_id=10559)
    Note: the Service Training class is a prerequisite to take the Maintenance Training class.
    We have a maximum of 16 seats in the Service class and 12 seats in the Maintenance class. NOTE: We need a minimum of 6 people signed up for each class no later than 03 May 2019 in order to hold the classes.
    Classes are taught at the Weyers Cave campus and labs are held at our hangar located at the Shenandoah Regional Airport (SHD). 
    For further information or questions please feel free to contact me.
    Keith Dennis
    Instructional Assistant – AMT Program
    Blue Ridge Community College
    43 Aviation Circle, Suite 101
    Hangar 4 East
    Weyers Cave, VA 24486
    Office (540) 453-2508
    DennisK@brcc.edu
  18. On my way home from the Kitfox Fly-in I started to accumulate a fine mist of oil on my windshield and cowling.  It became apparent it was gear oil and I assumed it was a bad front propeller shaft seal on the C-Gearbox.  I decreased my leg lengths, cleaned up at each stop and added gear oil as necessary.  Made it home to Chicago and pulled the front half of the gearbox to replace the seal.  I realized I didn't have the proper gear puller, wrench and jig to do it myself so I took it into Leading Edge Airfoils for them to do it.  I was surprised this past Monday when they informed me the housing was cracked almost in half.  To their credit, L.E.A.F. didn't charge me even though they disassembled and degreased all the parts.
    Anybody else experience this type of failure?
     
  19. I need to replace the front gearbox casting from an early 90's Greyhead C-Gearbox.  Anybody have one, or a gearbox available?

  20. Here is the installation of my Big Bore Zipper kit.
     
    I am starting with a 200 hour Rotax 912 UL, 80 hp engine.  It is about a 1997 vintage engine.  The engine has not run since 2009 when I bought the airplane.  It was in good running order then.  
     
    I hope to document the installation of the kit as well as the condition of the engine.
     
    Here is the engine fully assembled to start with the mount still attached.
     

     
    Here is the beginning of the teardown starting with the engine mount and rocker covers (for painting).
     

     
    I have scanned in the instructions given with the kit and have posted them here.
     
    Zipper.pdf
     
     
     
     
    I will attempt to document as much as possible.  Please try and keep this thread on topic for future reference...
  21. Skip the first 4 min, just talking about himself, rest is very important to know if you are running a Rotax 2stroke engine.

    HangarTalk1-Ed Wilson of L.E.A.F.:



    Regards
    Dimi3
  22. Brand new unused carb for sale. Was going to use for BMW conversion on my Avid but wound up going with a Jabiru 2200 and sold the BMW. Going through my airplane stuff and found this. Bing Model 64, ID# on the web is 64/32/395. Will work good for Jabiru or 912. 
     
    New price $1,080.  Asking $700 obo.
     
    250-498-6553 Charlie or cnemeth1@telus.net
     

  23. One of the few parts I'm missing to complete my Mdl C FWF project is a thermostat for the Gray Head. I'm reeling from the price tag of $130 + shipping that Lockwood and CPS charges. Is there an alternative? I cannot imagine that these thermostats cost this much unless because I'm looking at "aircraft" parts instead of for a sled.