C-box ratios

63 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Hi Ed,

As you saw, the Stratus is 100 HP and they get that after reconfiguring the cam and planing the heads .040 which raises the compression to just over 9:1 so you can still burn 87 octain mogas in them. The published redline is 52 - 5400 rpm. Timing is set at 12deg BTDC at 1000 rpm and max of 32 deg BTDC at 3500 rpm. Mine has dual electronic ignition pickups in the distributor which is from RAM and not stratus. The carbs are dual Bing 64's, altitude compensating, just like the ones they run on the Rotax 912's but jetted differently. All I can tell you are the numbers I have found from my experience flying it. I know my performance numbers are somehat lower than are published and I have talked to Mykal at Stratus about it and am still trying to figure out why. Still, I think you will find that cruise RPM of 3800 to 4000 is about right. I am pretty happy with the motor and the performance across the spectrum. It will be interesting to hear what you end up with for performance numbers. Hurry up and get that thing in the air!

Many Thanks for all the info Randy,

Mine is going back to welder the first of May for "final"(?) mods. I used a scrap MDX bike frame (don't laugh too loudly please) that can be bought at Walmart for about $100 to make my nose gear, attaching it to a fork salvaged from a PA-22 Piper Tripacer and making it castoring with a six inch wheel and 600 tire. OF Course, the three inch wing LE extensions have to be designed and made, all of the flaps and ailerons made, along with the hook-ups.

guess I am about 30 percent with 90 percent to go??? Hopefully will be in paint this year. Only been on this project for 16 years,

so very near completion, and ready to try it out. Will let the world know with photos and stats when I finally get there!!

Ed in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Are everyone's IVO IFA props up and working as hoped?

Chris

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Posted

Mine is!

:BC:

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Posted

Mine is. I think I have about 10+ hours on it now. I went out looking for gravel last Sunday night; too windy up the Knik so headed out to the Big Su; it still has feet of snow on it so flew to Petersville and looked at the historic Petersville Road House that burned last week; what a shame. Flew across the Kahiltna glacier/valley and searched for bears comming out of their dens on the Peters hills and Yenlo hills; then decided I might as well check and see if I could find a friends cabin he just bought on the Talchalitna River. It was after 10:00 PM and getting dusk when I landed about 3.2 hours later. There is still a lot of snow out there and me on wheels.:hammerhead: You can cover a lot of ground at 95 mph cruise now vs. 80 with the Warp Drive and still get off the ground faster. I'm liking it!

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Posted

Mine is. I think I have about 10+ hours on it now. I went out looking for gravel last Sunday night; too windy up the Knik so headed out to the Big Su; it still has feet of snow on it so flew to Petersville and looked at the historic Petersville Road House that burned last week; what a shame. Flew across the Kahiltna glacier/valley and searched for bears comming out of their dens on the Peters hills and Yenlo hills; then decided I might as well check and see if I could find a friends cabin he just bought on the Talchalitna River. It was after 10:00 PM and getting dusk when I landed about 3.2 hours later. There is still a lot of snow out there and me on wheels.hammerhead.gif You can cover a lot of ground at 95 mph cruise now vs. 80 with the Warp Drive and still get off the ground faster. I'm liking it!

AWESOME! Now I can get mine up into the RPM range that gives me some heat off my muffler heater when we are cruising around this winter! At 5400 she just dont put out much heat. Amazing how much more I get at 58-5900!

I was going to take the floats off and go back to wheels this time home, but if there is still that much snow up there I may leave them on one more hitch.

Sucks the road house burned down.. Spent quite a few nights at that place years ago when I rode up there alot.

It is about time to be getting up there and hitting some of those secret fishing holes of yours! It looks like I an going tobe working over a bit AGAIN this year during July, but I should still be able to get some good flying and fishing in!

:BC:

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Posted (edited)

Hi Ed,

As you saw, the Stratus is 100 HP and they get that after reconfiguring the cam and planing the heads .040 which raises the compression to just over 9:1 so you can still burn 87 octain mogas in them. The published redline is 52 - 5400 rpm. Timing is set at 12deg BTDC at 1000 rpm and max of 32 deg BTDC at 3500 rpm. Mine has dual electronic ignition pickups in the distributor which is from RAM and not stratus.

The heads on mine were milled 040, and the seller said to use mid-range mogas. Guess I will find out if I can run 87.

Do you have dual coils too, and electronic switching? Do I really need dual pickups? How much do they cost?

Mine has single set of points. Will double-check letters about max deg BTDC. Also, will decide if I need a primer, or can use that fitting for a carb temperature gage, or plug it. Never needed a primer on my 318 Dodge - Same Holly 2 brl - accelerator pump worked fine, just pump it 3 times when cold.

Again, thanks for info

ED in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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AWESOME! Now I can get mine up into the RPM range that gives me some heat off my muffler heater when we are cruising around this winter! At 5400 she just dont put out much heat. Amazing how much more I get at 58-5900!

I was going to take the floats off and go back to wheels this time home, but if there is still that much snow up there I may leave them on one more hitch.

Sucks the road house burned down.. Spent quite a few nights at that place years ago when I rode up there alot.

It is about time to be getting up there and hitting some of those secret fishing holes of yours! It looks like I an going tobe working over a bit AGAIN this year during July, but I should still be able to get some good flying and fishing in!

:BC:

Sounds good Leni, I need to write down the dates you are going to be in town so we can get some fishing trips in whenever you are home. That run down to Silver Salmon Creek in your old stomping grounds was a blast and we plan to do it again. Quite the bear concentration there but now I am going to be suspicious if I see you cooking bacon. :lmao:

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Posted (edited)

The heads on mine were milled 040, and the seller said to use mid-range mogas. Guess I will find out if I can run 87.

Do you have dual coils too, and electronic switching? Do I really need dual pickups? How much do they cost?

Mine has single set of points. Will double-check letters about max deg BTDC. Also, will decide if I need a primer, or can use that fitting for a carb temperature gage, or plug it. Never needed a primer on my 318 Dodge - Same Holly 2 brl - accelerator pump worked fine, just pump it 3 times when cold.

Again, thanks for info

ED in MO

Hi Ed, I run premium gas in mine just to minimize the chance of getting alcohol . I think most of the premium in a lot of areas still does not have alcohol and I don't want that wrecking my tanks. According to Stratus you can run 87 octane but I have not tried it and I doubt it I could hear it pinging if it was, so better to be safe and run the higher octane.

I have dual coils and an MDS coil joiner in mine. According to RAM you should not run both ignitions continuously at the same time or it can overheat the coil joiner and cause it to fail. The second ignition is a backup in case one fails but you have to switch the ignitions manually. I guess you could wire up two coils to a single pickup in the distributor and use a dual pole switch to switch from one ignition to the other but I tried to do that with the single ignition I had on my 670 Rotax and it didn't work. There was too much loss in the signal running the switch between the pickup and the coil so it would not fire the coils. Not sure if the Subaru would have more power but I think it would still cause a weak spark. On my Subaru I placed my ignition switches on the power going to the pickups and it works fine. I wired one on the alternator side of the system and the other directly to the battery so it bypasses my master switch, that way if I have to shut down the master switch if something starts smoking, the engine can still run on the secondary ignition. I got the distributor rebuilt and with dual pickups, dual coils and the coil joiner as a package from RAM for around $700. I think it might be cheaper to get the secondary ignition from Stratus but it is not in the distributor but instead is a pickup mounted on the block at the flywheel and reads off a magnet they put in the flywheel. It is more independent of the distributor if something were to nuke inside the distributor but requires the flywheel modification plus is more a limp home system since it does not have an advance system as the distributor has. The cheapest would be to build your own; use the stock electronic ignition pickups and mount a second one on the plate in the distributor oposite the stock one. I have also read some people say the GM pickups are a lot better than the stock Subaru ones but they may require a more custom mounting system; there is not much room inside the distributor and the second pickup really packs it full. The coils I got from RAM are just solid coils like you find on a motorcycle or ATV; not oil filled, and the MSD coil joiner can be found at many performance auto parts stores or mail order from JEGS or someplace like that.

I don't know if the Holly carb with an accelerator pump will be good enough without a primer but it might be. The Bing 64's don't have an accelerator pump and mine was terrible to start using just the enrichers as I had it set up initially. I added the primer to just one of the carbs and it was like night and day; when the engine is cold (I preheat it when it is below 20 degrees) I just pull the choke (enrichers) and give it 5 squirts of primer and it fires off on the first revolution.

Edited by SuberAvid

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Hi Ed, I run premium gas in mine just to minimize the chance of getting alcohol . I think most of the premium in a lot of areas still does not have alcohol and I don't want that wrecking my tanks. According to Stratus you can run 87 octane but I have not tried it and I doubt it I could hear it pinging if it was, so better to be safe and run the higher octane.

I have dual coils and an MDS coil joiner in mine. According to RAM you should not run both ignitions continuously at the same time or it can overheat the coil joiner and cause it to fail. The second ignition is a backup in case one fails but you have to switch the ignitions manually. I guess you could wire up two coils to a single pickup in the distributor and use a dual pole switch to switch from one ignition to the other but I tried to do that with the single ignition I had on my 670 Rotax and it didn't work. There was too much loss in the signal running the switch between the pickup and the coil so it would not fire the coils. Not sure if the Subaru would have more power but I think it would still cause a weak spark. On my Subaru I placed my ignition switches on the power going to the pickups and it works fine. I wired one on the alternator side of the system and the other directly to the battery so it bypasses my master switch, that way if I have to shut down the master switch if something starts smoking, the engine can still run on the secondary ignition. I got the distributor rebuilt and with dual pickups, dual coils and the coil joiner as a package from RAM for around $700. I think it might be cheaper to get the secondary ignition from Stratus but it is not in the distributor but instead is a pickup mounted on the block at the flywheel and reads off a magnet they put in the flywheel. It is more independent of the distributor if something were to nuke inside the distributor but requires the flywheel modification plus is more a limp home system since it does not have an advance system as the distributor has. The cheapest would be to build your own; use the stock electronic ignition pickups and mount a second one on the plate in the distributor oposite the stock one. I have also read some people say the GM pickups are a lot better than the stock Subaru ones but they may require a more custom mounting system; there is not much room inside the distributor and the second pickup really packs it full. The coils I got from RAM are just solid coils like you find on a motorcycle or ATV; not oil filled, and the MSD coil joiner can be found at many performance auto parts stores or mail order from JEGS or someplace like that.

I don't know if the Holly carb with an accelerator pump will be good enough without a primer but it might be. The Bing 64's don't have an accelerator pump and mine was terrible to start using just the enrichers as I had it set up initially. I added the primer to just one of the carbs and it was like night and day; when the engine is cold (I preheat it when it is below 20 degrees) I just pull the choke (enrichers) and give it 5 squirts of primer and it fires off on the first revolution.

Apprediate all the info. I have a dual conversion plan drawn by (Messinger?). Don't know if I will use it.

Ed in MO

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Posted (edited)

Mine is. I think I have about 10+ hours on it now. I went out looking for gravel last Sunday night; too windy up the Knik so headed out to the Big Su; it still has feet of snow on it so flew to Petersville and looked at the historic Petersville Road House that burned last week; what a shame. Flew across the Kahiltna glacier/valley and searched for bears comming out of their dens on the Peters hills and Yenlo hills; then decided I might as well check and see if I could find a friends cabin he just bought on the Talchalitna River. It was after 10:00 PM and getting dusk when I landed about 3.2 hours later. There is still a lot of snow out there and me on wheels.:hammerhead: You can cover a lot of ground at 95 mph cruise now vs. 80 with the Warp Drive and still get off the ground faster. I'm liking it!

I should have knocked on wood when I wrote this. It seems my prop motor quit working yesterday. Still have over 12 volts and reversing polarity at the slip rings but motor doesnt work. Will have to get a hold of IVO and see what they say. Not exactly sure where my prop is set at right now. I might take it out today again and just see what it does the way it is set.

Had a ball on the gravel yesterday though and first time I was able to pass my buddy in his supercub. Wind was blowing about 10 to 15 so could really get off short too.

Edited by SuberAvid

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I should have knocked on wood when I wrote this. It seems my prop motor quit working yesterday. Still have over 12 volts and reversing polarity at the slip rings but motor doesnt work. Will have to get a hold of IVO and see what they say. Not exactly sure where my prop is set at right now. I might take it out today again and just see what it does the way it is set.

Had a ball on the gravel yesterday though and first time I was able to pass my buddy in his supercub. Wind was blowing about 10 to 15 so could really get off short too.

WORD OF CAUTION!!!!!

Be VERY careful if you have a bunch of TQ on the blades one way or the other from their natural relaxed pitch. You can eat those lil planetary gears up if you really try and manually release the tension so you can get the blades off.... not that I would know all about this, but I can tell you that each one of those lile .50 cent gears are 18 bucks apiece from IVO. and no, I cant find the supplier so I can buy them at a reasonable price :lol:

check the brushes and make sure they are making good contact. That is normally where you will ahve issues. I have had them get a thin layer of plastic melted to them then the plastic isolation disk at the prop hub was too close to the brush holder and she got a lil warm from rubing.

:BC:

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Posted

ChrisB

I have enjoyed flying with the IFA IVO and the poly switches so much that I have not taken the time to figure out how to get the indicator lights to work

I chose to use the limit washers and like that feature.

We all know that prop pitch has a big influence on EGT's and that is very noticeable with IFA on a 582.

My current jetting at full throttle climb at 6600 RPM gives 1100 EGT's.

Reducing the RPM to 6000 raises the EGT slightly above 1200 and adding pitch lowers the EGT back down again.

I am very pleased with the lower cruising RPM and reduced fuel burn that IFA offers especially with the HACman.

I will appreciate any jetting suggestions.

Thanks Herman

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Posted

Lots of good information in this thread just I was looking for. I skipped over most of this when it was going on because I didn't have that set up. Now that I do I am interested in learning all I can about it. My prop is enroute now.

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