Cowl to windshiled fit problem

[High Country 69]

So i checked the cowl with the spinner. No good the build manual says the cowl should sit 3/8" above the spinner. As it was from either the original builder or where the factory drilled the holes it sat about 1" below the spinner. To fix this I Hysoled the holes and sanded smooth then started over, this cowl is poorly designed to say the least. I was able to get it to be just barley above the spinner but not the 3/8" called for in the book it looks good though so I settled on it. Problem now is in order to raise it up this much it now interferes with the front spark plug on the bottom- solution cut a hole for the spark plug clearance not too much of a problem. Next problem now is its too close to the windshield and I have to cut it back to make room for the windshield to go into. I'm thinking just cut it back and put some sort of rubber molding around the edge where it contacts the lexan. Is this enough or do I need to do some fiberglass work and make it fair back up like it was. I have never worked with fiberglass before and was hoping not to have to do too much work to this cowling as I would like to replace it at some point anyways. I took a pic of the problem but forgot to upload it off of the camera so I'm borrowing Joey's pic just so you can see what type of cowl I'm working with. Second pic is one I found that used rubber molding on the edge sorta what I have in mind only without the fiared up part. What do you guys think?

[akflyer 1427]

If it is like mine, if you cut the flare off it wont cover up where the dash and the windshield meet. I too have the rubber moulding around mine to keep the rain and crap out. On mine, they must have had the same issues as you because they cut out a hole in the front of the cowling for the front spark plugs and make a small aluminum fairing that they riveted in place to cover the hole. I will look and see if I have any pics of it.

Here is the link to mine showing the bump in the front of the cowling

my cowling

[High Country 69]

I originally had the nose tank so I don't currently have a dash to meet up to so that's no problem I can just make one that goes where ever it needs to. just want to know if I will be introducing any issues by not having the cowl fair up as it transitions into the lexan, I can't see any reason not to other than maybe keeping it clean? I have seen other cowls like this with just a hole hadn't noticed the cover on your cowling I think I will do the same, thanks for the hint.

-Robert-

[EDMO 1078]

I originally had the nose tank so I don't currently have a dash to meet up to so that's no problem I can just make one that goes where ever it needs to. just want to know if I will be introducing any issues by not having the cowl fair up as it transitions into the lexan, I can't see any reason not to other than maybe keeping it clean? I have seen other cowls like this with just a hole hadn't noticed the cover on your cowling I think I will do the same, thanks for the hint.

-Robert-

Have you considered cutting the flange part wide enough so you could move it forward and rivet it back to the cowling? Underneath & blended?

ED in MO

Edited 22 Sep 2012 by Ed In Missouri

[High Country 69]

Have you considered cutting the flange part wide enough so you could move it forward and rivet it back to the cowling? Underneath & blended?

ED in MO

Good idea Ed, I hadn't thought of this. I did cut the aluminum strip on the top back and got a little better fit. When I get some time off(been working long crazy hours with the fires all around us) I will try cutting it back and re-use the original flange. Maybe I could just glass it back in rather than rivets?

-Robert-

[EDMO 1078]

Good idea Ed, I hadn't thought of this. I did cut the aluminum strip on the top back and got a little better fit. When I get some time off(been working long crazy hours with the fires all around us) I will try cutting it back and re-use the original flange. Maybe I could just glass it back in rather than rivets?

-Robert-

You might put the flange under the cowl, and sand each surface, epoxy together and blend the seam on the top with the extra epoxy.

Sometimes my old brain works - hope this idea works.

ED in MO

[High Country 69]

You might put the flange under the cowl, and sand each surface, epoxy together and blend the seam on the top with the extra epoxy.

Sometimes my old brain works - hope this idea works.

ED in MO

I have No "0" experience working with fiberglass so I have no idea where to start. What all do I need for this project, what type of epoxy, do I need cloth, etc. Is there some sort of small includes all kit that I could get that would do it for me?

Thanks for the suggestions

-Robert-

[EDMO 1078]

I have No "0" experience working with fiberglass so I have no idea where to start. What all do I need for this project, what type of epoxy, do I need cloth, etc. Is there some sort of small includes all kit that I could get that would do it for me?

Thanks for the suggestions

-Robert-

Simplest - and least messy - and cheapest - Just use 9460. You can rivet or not, but that would make a stronger joint. Different kinds of fiberglas epoxy dont mix or adhere to each other. I would not use Bondo.

ED in MO

P.S. I still like the idea of putting the rubber over the top of the flange to make a better seal to WS.

Edited 23 Sep 2012 by Ed In Missouri

[Twister 0]

Simplest - and least messy - and cheapest - Just use 9460. You can rivet or not, but that would make a stronger joint. Different kinds of fiberglas epoxy dont mix or adhere to each other. I would not use Bondo.

ED in MO

P.S. I still like the idea of putting the rubber over the top of the flange to make a better seal to WS.

Ed, what kind of epoxy (if any) would you put into a lightweight emergency repair kit? What do you think of JB Weld?

Speaking of emergency repair kits, what do you suggest? I will be both towing and flying, so the one in the tow vehicle can be pretty big, but the one in the aircraft is another story. Duct tape and wire? What kind? A buddy of mine says they had a special kind of "duct" tape in the Army that they patched holes with in Viet Nam. Unauthorized repairs, of course, but the stuff was extra-tough and extra-sticky.

[EDMO 1078]

Ed, what kind of epoxy (if any) would you put into a lightweight emergency repair kit? What do you think of JB Weld?

Speaking of emergency repair kits, what do you suggest? I will be both towing and flying, so the one in the tow vehicle can be pretty big, but the one in the aircraft is another story. Duct tape and wire? What kind? A buddy of mine says they had a special kind of "duct" tape in the Army that they patched holes with in Viet Nam. Unauthorized repairs, of course, but the stuff was extra-tough and extra-sticky.

Depends on climate you are in - most epoxies like to work at 70F and above - had good and bad results with JB -

Usually with repair kits - you have everything except what you need - you just have to make do.

100 mph Duct tape, pliers, wire, etc are all good. My belt always has a Gerber all-purpose tool on it - best I have used.

Just keep it light, simple, and tied down good. We also had the aluminum (300 mph) tape for planes.

ED in MO

[avidchh 3]

Ed, what kind of epoxy (if any) would you put into a lightweight emergency repair kit? What do you think of JB Weld?

Speaking of emergency repair kits, what do you suggest? I will be both towing and flying, so the one in the tow vehicle can be pretty big, but the one in the aircraft is another story. Duct tape and wire? What kind? A buddy of mine says they had a special kind of "duct" tape in the Army that they patched holes with in Viet Nam. Unauthorized repairs, of course, but the stuff was extra-tough and extra-sticky.

Gorilla Tape meets that definition

[High Country 69]

update on progress- been pretty busy with the fire season so not much progress lately but I'm back at it now.

Ed, thanks for the idea of cutting off the top edge and just relocating it, such an easy thought I can't believe I over looked it. I have it all moved where I like it and its ready to glue/rivet on, I made it so the outside edges are flush where they started but it quickly overlaps the main part of the cowl as it transitions to fit the windshield. I know its not the best but its far better than I started with and I can be happy with it until I replace it at a later date, just want to get flying for now. I also ordered some rubber molding for the edge against the windshield.

Edited 11 Oct 2012 by High Country

[EDMO 1078]

update on progress- been pretty busy with the fire season so not much progress lately but I'm back at it now.

Ed, thanks for the idea of cutting off the top edge and just relocating it, such an easy thought I can't believe I over looked it. I have it all moved where I like it and its ready to glue/rivet on, I made it so the outside edges are flush where they started but it quickly overlaps the main part of the cowl as it transitions to fit the windshield. I know its not the best but its far better than I started with and I can be happy with it until I replace it at a later date, just want to get flying for now. I also ordered some rubber molding for the edge against the windshield.

Looks good - Happy my suggestion worked for you. Glad the light mounts worked too. Get flying.

I am back to building after a year of recovery - still hurt, but not that bad.

Trying to shutup and build, but watching paint dry tonight.

ED in MO

Edited 11 Oct 2012 by Ed In Missouri