turning

[lakertreetopflyer 0]

I finally got to taxi my new to me MK 4 yesterday.Problem is this thing takes a half a football field to make a turn at slow speeds.I am going to try moving the spring inboard in the tailwheel lever and maybe shorten the rudder stops........this plane does have the airdale wide bungee gear

Any one have any input.

Brian

[BryceKat 125]

Brian,

I always give full down elevator to make a tight turn because I have cg at 15 in which puts a lot of weight on tail wheel. Good luck, Bryce

[akflyer 1427]

Brian,

I always give full down elevator to make a tight turn because I have cg at 15 in which puts a lot of weight on tail wheel. Good luck, Bryce

I took some 1"X .125" flat bar and cut it 3" longer than the horns on the rudder. I bolted it to the rudder horn, then drilled holes on the outboard ends to go to the tailwheel chains. Gave me all the throw I needed to turn tight. Use your brakes to to unlock the tailwheel and get it to swivel. I have my CG at 19" when I am on wheels so I have alot of pressure on my tailwheel too. You can either go out on the rudder horns or in on the tailwheel arm, either way should do what you need.

[lakertreetopflyer 0]

I took some 1"X .125" flat bar and cut it 3" longer than the horns on the rudder. I bolted it to the rudder horn, then drilled holes on the outboard ends to go to the tailwheel chains. Gave me all the throw I needed to turn tight. Use your brakes to to unlock the tailwheel and get it to swivel. I have my CG at 19" when I am on wheels so I have alot of pressure on my tailwheel too. You can either go out on the rudder horns or in on the tailwheel arm, either way should do what you need.

Great Idea

I will try just redrilling holes inboard on the tailwheel bracket first,but may try yours also.As far as the brakes go,the guy I got it from had put large tires and wheels on this and the stock brakes will not work.So he put on those black max brakes.I just cant get enough leverage on the pedals.I even extended the tabs on the pedals and still barely any brakes.Am thinking of rigging some kind of heel brake .......should be able to get more pressure that way.

Brian

[EDMO 1078]

Great Idea

I will try just redrilling holes inboard on the tailwheel bracket first,but may try yours also.As far as the brakes go,the guy I got it from had put large tires and wheels on this and the stock brakes will not work.So he put on those black max brakes.I just cant get enough leverage on the pedals.I even extended the tabs on the pedals and still barely any brakes.Am thinking of rigging some kind of heel brake .......should be able to get more pressure that way.

Brian

What kind of master cylinders do you have? If you have Matco 4 or 5 series, Matco sells a sleeve kit to reduce your bore from 5/8 to 1/2 inch, and increase your braking by about 56%.

ED in MO

[larr 0]

Ensure that you have full rudder movement. It should be at least 30° each side, or even just about to touch the elevator at full deflection. Try with your hands, and also with the rudder peddles to ensure full throw. Just becasue it jas flown, doesn't mean that it has been rigged right.

from experience - larry

[C5Engineer 1170]

I had the same issue initially with my stock mechanical brakes and crappy Maule Tailwheel. Get you a Matco TW and extend out the tabs on your horns. I would also look into Matco master cylinders. Do a search for Go Kart to Matco brakes on here for a 3 page write up on the conversion. Made it a whole new airplane!

[akflyer 1427]

Here is the link to the conversion thread Joey was refering to.

Conversion thread

One other thing to check. How is the tail wheel geometry??? If the angle of the wheel pivot is not right, it was be a serious beyatch to get it to turn. If it is too much the other way, the tail wheel will just want to swivel around and hose you all up. Proper alignment is the key to good turning, easy stearing and no shimmey.

[C5Engineer 1170]

This thread has some good info regarding geometry

http://www.backcountrypilot.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=5479&p=70260&hilit=Double+Tailwheel+spring#p70260

[lakertreetopflyer 0]

I had the same issue initially with my stock mechanical brakes and crappy Maule Tailwheel. Get you a Matco TW and extend out the tabs on your horns. I would also look into Matco master cylinders. Do a search for Go Kart to Matco brakes on here for a 3 page write up on the conversion. Made it a whole new airplane!

Thanks C5

I put extentions on the rudder horns and it worked perfect.Now it taxis just fine.

As far as the brakes,it is all black max........calipers and master cylinders.I think I will tackle that a little later.

brian

[akflyer 1427]

I love the freedom we have with Exp. to make good (cheap) improvements! $2.00 worth of steel and couple bolts and your good to go. Beats the heck outta a new 150.00 arm and the STC to go with it LOL.

glad it worked for you!

[Twister 0]

I had the same issue initially with my stock mechanical brakes and crappy Maule Tailwheel. Get you a Matco TW and extend out the tabs on your horns. I would also look into Matco master cylinders. Do a search for Go Kart to Matco brakes on here for a 3 page write up on the conversion. Made it a whole new airplane!

Can you be a bit more specific about the "crappy" Maule tailwheel? Are you referring to all Maule tailwheels or just the one you had?

[C5Engineer 1170]

Can you be a bit more specific about the "crappy" Maule tailwheel? Are you referring to all Maule tailwheels or just the one you had?

They were around for years but they are old technology, they have lots of expensive parts that wear out, and they weigh about twice that of a Matco. I messed with mine for 6 months before I literally pitched it in the trash and haven't looked back since. Even the certified guys are ditching them for other makes like the Scott.

[6320012s 12]

They were around for years but they are old technology, they have lots of expensive parts that wear out, and they weigh about twice that of a Matco. I messed with mine for 6 months before I literally pitched it in the trash and haven't looked back since. Even the certified guys are ditching them for other makes like the Scott.

Although I still have my Maul TW, It is on my short list to replace. My first ground loop was credited to the dog being worn out and breaking free into castor on touch down. I check the function every time on pre-flight, but have seen significant wear on the new parts in just 150 hours. Bottom line is it is a poor design made with subpar materials.