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Timing Rotax 582

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Posted

Question for 582 mechanics. When I reassembled my rotax 582 I put the magneto side piston at top dead center and placed the rotary plate on the scibe line on the case. My magneto is set like it was when I took it out. Does this sound right?

Thanks

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Posted

The manual I sent should show the pictures of this pretty clearly. You line the plate up as close as possible to the edge of the intake hole. MAKE SURE you are looking at the right hole and the right orientation.. The first one I did was on the bench and all went well.. The second one I had the engine still hanging on the mount in the plane. The picture is bass akwards when the engine is upside down so I timed the wrong edge of the hole and she didn't like it! It does not fire too good when the intake is blocked off 180 out.

:BC:

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Posted

The manual I sent should show the pictures of this pretty clearly. You line the plate up as close as possible to the edge of the intake hole. MAKE SURE you are looking at the right hole and the right orientation.. The first one I did was on the bench and all went well.. The second one I had the engine still hanging on the mount in the plane. The picture is bass akwards when the engine is upside down so I timed the wrong edge of the hole and she didn't like it! It does not fire too good when the intake is blocked off 180 out.

:BC:/>

I have the 1992 rotax greyhead. The ignition coils have the round mounting holes so the only thing I can adjust there is the gap. What is the scribe line on the case under the rotary plate. I thought at top dead center the plate was to be installed on that scribe line. Guess Ill keep reading tonight. Of course in that position the intake hole is open on the pto side and the intake hole is covered on the magneto side.

Thanks

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Posted

I have the 1992 rotax greyhead. The ignition coils have the round mounting holes so the only thing I can adjust there is the gap. What is the scribe line on the case under the rotary plate. I thought at top dead center the plate was to be installed on that scribe line. Guess Ill keep reading tonight. Of course in that position the intake hole is open on the pto side and the intake hole is covered on the magneto side.

Thanks

My bad, I thought you were talking about the ROTARY VALVE PLATE.. your on the ignitions system.. I think. Line me out. Are you talking ignition system or the rotary valve?

:BC:

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My bad, I thought you were talking about the ROTARY VALVE PLATE.. your on the ignitions system.. I think. Line me out. Are you talking ignition system or the rotary valve?

:BC:/>

On the rotax 582 grey head the older ones had the ignition coils that were not adjustable except the gap therefore timing is set. I spoke with the mechanic at airscrew performance and he said on the rotary there is a scribe mark. Put mag piston at top dead center and then put on rotary plate lined up on the scribe line. If it does not line up that means the plate must be turned over. Sure enough when I did that it lined up perfectly. So I am all set.

Thanks for your help. I will get that video and book back to you soon. I hope to be taxing on a lake very soon with some ground hops to check it out.

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Posted

ok, yes we are on the same page now. I was pretty certain that you were talking about the rotary valve but wanted to make sure. If the only thing you have flown is ultralights, I would caution against taking it up without instructions, its gonna be alot different than the quicksilver.. High speed taxi is also a thing to avoid. That is a great way to bend up some tubes in an Avid or kitfox. Either a slow taxi or fly it. I will be up in the biglake area around the 30th or the 4th.

:BC:

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ok, yes we are on the same page now. I was pretty certain that you were talking about the rotary valve but wanted to make sure. If the only thing you have flown is ultralights, I would caution against taking it up without instructions, its gonna be alot different than the quicksilver.. High speed taxi is also a thing to avoid. That is a great way to bend up some tubes in an Avid or kitfox. Either a slow taxi or fly it. I will be up in the biglake area around the 30th or the 4th.

:BC:/>

I am working on my certifications. Would love to have you fly off some of the hours when I get the inspection. If you come up on the 4th and the weather is permitting I would be happy to have you fly it.

Thanks

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Posted

If nothing else, I will put the other stick in my plane and let you get some time on the stick and get a feel for it! Just be ready to walk around with a perma grin for awhile!

Is there a lake close to you that I can drop in on? I am on ski's now.

:BC:

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Posted

If nothing else, I will put the other stick in my plane and let you get some time on the stick and get a feel for it! Just be ready to walk around with a perma grin for awhile!

Is there a lake close to you that I can drop in on? I am on ski's now.

:BC:/>

Big Lake is the only one I can think of. Wasilla lake is down town. Several lakes I dont know the name of. I've got skis for mine to. Just need to install with rigging.

Thanks

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Posted

MAKE DAMN GOOD AND SURE that you bleed the rotary valve oil VERY GOOD!!!!! On the inverted engine, it can be a bit of a pain to make sure the oil cavity is full. If you dont get it bled and have the brass RV gear totaly submerged guess what will happen in less than 15 minutes into your break in time.... you get the opprotunity to rebuild the engine again! yep, the first 582 I did on mine was a sumbitch. about 10 minutes into the break in she just shut down. It was not seized cause I hit the starter and she turned right over. I did the whole check the gas, check the spark checked it all... WTH. Then it hit me that it sounded a little weird when it was turning over. Pulled the airfilter and looked in and sure ans shit, the rotary valve was not turning..

It was an expensive lesson but I will never repeat that one!

:BC:

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Posted

MAKE DAMN GOOD AND SURE that you bleed the rotary valve oil VERY GOOD!!!!! On the inverted engine, it can be a bit of a pain to make sure the oil cavity is full. If you dont get it bled and have the brass RV gear totaly submerged guess what will happen in less than 15 minutes into your break in time.... you get the opprotunity to rebuild the engine again! yep, the first 582 I did on mine was a sumbitch. about 10 minutes into the break in she just shut down. It was not seized cause I hit the starter and she turned right over. I did the whole check the gas, check the spark checked it all... WTH. Then it hit me that it sounded a little weird when it was turning over. Pulled the airfilter and looked in and sure ans shit, the rotary valve was not turning..

It was an expensive lesson but I will never repeat that one!

:BC:/>

What is your recommendation to make sure its full. Airscrew told me the same thing. I hope that does not happen. This engine is brand new. It was in mint condition when I pulled it apart. Replaced all the seals including the water seals. Paid careful attention to the manual.

Thanks

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Posted

What is your recommendation to make sure its full. Airscrew told me the same thing. I hope that does not happen. This engine is brand new. It was in mint condition when I pulled it apart. Replaced all the seals including the water seals. Paid careful attention to the manual.

Thanks

The SECOND time, I pulled the bleed screw in the case and shoved a hose in there to make sure I got good flow out of it instead of closing it up at first sign of oil coming out. Then I tood the tube on the end of a turkey baster and sucked the oil in the RV tank through the lowest port to make sure that the cavity was full and no air bubbles were in the system. Make usre you do it slowly so you dont suck the oil out of the tank and cause a bubble. It is a very small tank and you can pull the oil out of it quick! It is not that big of a deal, just take the extra few minutes and the extra few onces of oil to make sure the system is fully bled.

:BC:

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When I've filled the rotary valve oil, I slipped the hose off the bottle that goes to the lower port, and then slipped about a foot long larger hose over the smaller hose. I then slowly fill that hose till the oil comes out of the upper port and starts to fill the bottle. A 532 does not have the bleed screw, but the 582 does and I remove it also and let the oil come out there as well. With the oil going in the lower port, and no oil blocking the upper port, the oil pushes the air out as it fills the cavity. I've done this on 3 582s,and 2 532s with no bad results. Take care, Jim Chuk

The SECOND time, I pulled the bleed screw in the case and shoved a hose in there to make sure I got good flow out of it instead of closing it up at first sign of oil coming out. Then I tood the tube on the end of a turkey baster and sucked the oil in the RV tank through the lowest port to make sure that the cavity was full and no air bubbles were in the system. Make usre you do it slowly so you dont suck the oil out of the tank and cause a bubble. It is a very small tank and you can pull the oil out of it quick! It is not that big of a deal, just take the extra few minutes and the extra few onces of oil to make sure the system is fully bled.

:BC:/>

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Posted

Is there any special oil that I should run in the Rotary shaft housing or is it the same that I run through the injection system.

THanks

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Posted

Same as the injection oil.

:BC:

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Posted

So I filled my rotary valve cavity today with oil. My engine is inverted and the oil resivour tank is above the engine. I removed the bleed screw and filled the tank to the line and let it drain into the rotary valve cavity. It took about 3 1/4 to 4 fillings of my little oil resivour tank to fill it until it poured out of the bleed hole. Guaranteed the rotary valve shaft with the brass gear is total submerged. One thing I am not sure about is the their may be a small amount of airspace from the top of the bleed hole to the top of the crank housing (engine upside down).

What are your thoughts.

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Posted

If you have a clear hose going up to the bottle, you can stand the plane on it's nose and see if you get any air bubbles going up the hose to the bottle. Actually that takes two people, one to hold the tail way high in the air and one to watch for air bubbles. Take care, Jim Chuk

So I filled my rotary valve cavity today with oil. My engine is inverted and the oil resivour tank is above the engine. I removed the bleed screw and filled the tank to the line and let it drain into the rotary valve cavity. It took about 3 1/4 to 4 fillings of my little oil resivour tank to fill it until it poured out of the bleed hole. Guaranteed the rotary valve shaft with the brass gear is total submerged. One thing I am not sure about is the their may be a small amount of airspace from the top of the bleed hole to the top of the crank housing (engine upside down).

What are your thoughts.

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