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Posted

Thats a 600 X 6 on the front and 21's on the mains. i can go up to an 800 X6 on the front, but it is so much heavier and not really that much taller, that I think this will strike a good balance. I had to reduce the fork travel from 2 inch to 1 inch to make the fork work properly on the Avid. However, my plan is to run real low pressure to get good absorption in addition to the travel.  

In a tri gear configuration the original landing gear worked great on the original lenght Avid and the plane could be easily balanced on the mains even taxiing, so the nose wheel didn't need to come into play much landing on rough terrain.

With the Fat Avid fuselage stretch the landing gear should have been made taller to compensate, but Airdale just supplied the stock Tri gear. To save money I put on taller tires to raise the plane because it was a lot less expensive and easier than making taller gear. Then I went ahead and adapted the Rans Tundra fork to The Avid because it can support a properly proportioned nosewheel tire to the 21 inch mains.

This weekend I am working on the steering linkage for it.

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Posted

I guess I should have read your post better :lol:  She should work pretty good and look good as well! 

 

:BC:

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Posted (edited)

Thanx for the info Chris,

Someday when I finish my wing I will measure mine - it may be close to your 43 1/2.

I don't recognize the RANS nose gear - is this pneumatic?  The one on the S6 was spring loaded, and also disconnected like Cessna when the weight came off of it, so it would not be crooked with rudder until has weight on the ground again.

Hoping for the recommended  10 to15% of total weight to be on nosewheel.

Please post more when you get farther along.

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Hi Ed,

It is the spring loaded Rans nose fork. I cut it down shorter to fit the Avid. It lost half its spring travel with the chop job, but can handle such a large tire I am not concerned about the travel loss. I am not aware of a rans nose fork that disconnects from the linkage. This will be connected to the linkage all the time. I wish it wasn't, but that's the way they do it as far as I know. This is for an S-6/S-12 and to my knowledge it is the current version. It was purchased last year.

Chris

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Posted

Originally I was not going to rewire this aircraft, but there are enough things I don't like that I have changed my mind. I have thought a ton about it and sketched out what I plan to do and would like feedback..... particularly WRT the Ducati Energia Regulator. I have done the best I can to figure out potential problems and address them in the attached sketch. Is this something like what most people with 912's are doing for wiring? 

wiring.pdf

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Posted

Haven't updated in a while. Finally have the steerable nose wheel figured out, built and rigged. Works better than I hoped. Rudder moves very easily, negligible resistance at all from the nose fork. Rudder cables remain properly tensioned throughout pedal travel. Proper rudder cable tensioning was my biggest concern because both pedals are tied to the nose fork. This turned out to be a non issue. I wanted both pedals attached to the fork to provide active damping for the large nose tire this setup will be running. I think this is going to be the bomb as far as Avid Trikes go. It is setup with 21-800 mains and 600-6 nose wheel. Here are some pictures.

post-258-0-91406500-1403112580_thumb.jpg

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post-258-0-10234600-1403112685_thumb.jpg

post-258-0-31553200-1403112762_thumb.jpg

post-258-0-46084700-1403112805_thumb.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Chris,  Thanks for posting the photos and updates.

      glad you got the nose steering setup and working good.  Looks as strong as a Tri-pacer gear! 

In case I decide to convert to a steerable gear, where did you get the odd pushrod ends and what are they?

      Let me know when you decide on prop blades.

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Hi Ed,

Thanks, I think it is turning out well. Once everything s cleaned up and painted it should look pretty good too. I think the odd pushrod ends you are referring to are 1/4-28 quick release ball joints. They are available everywhere. I got the idea to use them from Rans. That's what they use successfully for their linkages.

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Posted

Hi again Ed,

 

You are first in line for the Warp Drive blades. I am going with Whirlwind for the lower inertia with the 912. My original plan was to fly the plane first with the Warp prop then upgrade just to keep the spending spread out. if you end up needing the prop sooner than that we can work something out. I will not be using Warp long term with the 912.

 

Did you say that the hub is the same for both Warp and Whirlwind?

 

Chris

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Posted (edited)

Chris,

      Check the Whirlwind ads - Their blades are made to fit the Warp Drive Hub - Caution, there are TWO Whirlwind companies, both owned by Steve ____ - make sure you are going to the cheaper one - I think they are made in California.

      I wont need blades for a long time - just let me know when you are ready to sell them.

Thanks,

EdMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Not a lot of activity right now so I will ask of all the fat avid owners the story behind your cowl. Did both halves come from the factory ready made? Did you have to modify your existing (MKIV or other) cowl? Did you use a cowl from another plane (kitfox or other)?

 

Brett says he has a mold for a fat avid cowl top. (Thanks for getting back to me Brett!) But he also says he is not aware there ever was a unique bottom and that the MKIV cowl bottom is what is used. is that true?

 

I am now stuck on the cowl in my Fat Avid project since landing gear is now complete.

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Posted

Hey Chris. I don't know much about Avid cowlings, but my MK-IV came with a cowl that I am not going to use. I really want to make my own. My understanding is that the cowl is for the O-200 that the original builder planned to install. If the MK-IV bottom cowl will work, it might be of some use to you.

 

I think it's been through several project moves, and it looks a little discolored (yellowish). I can take some pictures next week if you are interested (I'm getting ready to leave for Oshkosh). You're welcome to it if you want to pick it up. Seems like you said you are from Washington, so if you ever make it down this way, I'm right on I-5.

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Posted

I would love to see some pictures. Please post some! Oregon is close. Maybe I can make something work.

 

Thank you!

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Posted

Hey Chris, I'm about 10 minutes from heading out the door to Oshkosh. I'll post some pics first of the week when I get back though.

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Posted

Thanks! and have a great time at Osh. Someday I hope to go. Never been.

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Posted

Here are some pictures of the cowling I have. It's actually in better shape than I remember. If it were in a little better condition, I'd probably ask something for it. As it is though, you might need to make one or two repairs. Not even sure it would work on your plane.

 

post-760-0-78198600-1407202237_thumb.jpg

 

The forward part of the cowl looks like about 33" wide.

post-760-0-36488000-1407202386_thumb.jpg

 

post-760-0-47963200-1407202398_thumb.jpg

 

Length is about 40"

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post-760-0-86517100-1407202421_thumb.jpg

 

There is a strange cutout on what would be the right side of the plane.

post-760-0-29424500-1407202428_thumb.jpg

 

Ed, you asked about some dimensions on this. If you want me to measure other dimensions, let me know.

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Posted

How much?  PM me.

EDMO

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Posted

I PMed Ed about the cowl. As I explained to him, I'd prefer to just give it to someone if they can pick it up.

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Posted (edited)

Luke,

     I cant understand why the shipping would be so high - I shipped a Kitfox 4 Grove spring gear with wheels and brakes to New Jersey UPS in a huge box for 1/2 that price.   I also had a Kitfox 5 Grove gear with wheels, brakes and tires shipped to me all assembled from California by truck freight for $160.

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted (edited)

The best way to ship something like this that's bulky, but not real heavy is with Grayhound bus service.  I was told last week, that it cost about $60 to ship a cowl from out west to Mn.  They said it wasn't much difference in price for 200 miles or 1000 miles.  Might be something to look into.  Jim Chuk

 

PS  when I got my Jabiru / Avid cowl it came this way.  Price then was $50.  That was about 6 yrs ago.

Edited by Jim Chuk

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Posted

Thanks for posting the pics!

 

I will check measurements against my plane after work. It looks awesome if I can make it work. And YES I can drive down to get it (and buy you dinner) if it looks like I can use it!

 

Many thanks!

 

Chris

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Posted

No problem Chris. Hope it works out for you.

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Posted

Chris,

      I didn't mean to cut in line in front of you - I just wanted my name on the list in case you didn't get the cowl.

EDMO

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Posted

No worries Ed!

 

I am going to pick up the cowl and see if I can make it work. My friend Max has a Fat Avid top cowl I can have. I only require a bottom. It does not look to me like Luke's cowl is aMKIV, So the bottom may or may not work for me.

 

At this time my plan is to get the cowl from Luke. I must have it in hand. If I can use all or part of it great. If not I will to greyhound it to you. (I have experience doing that sending Willis his cowl) :-) My goal is to get me set up with a workable cowl, but NOT to break Luke's cowl set up if possible, because top and bottom match.

 

Bottom line is if I don't use the cowl, and you are willing to maybe help with my gas to get it and pay greyhound, it's yours.

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Posted

Thanks Chris.  Hope something works for you.

EdMO

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