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Cabin Heat


25 posts in this topic

Posted

What the preferred method of cabin heat on the Avids? Radiator or exhaust muff. I have none and I'm seriously thinking of adding mod as I work on my FWF project.

 

Now that I think of it, why dosen't the R-582 utilize carb heat - why does it not need it?

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Posted

if you have in cowl radiators use the scoop behind a radiator to "preheat" the air, then use a heat muff for the best heat.  I dont know of any 582 that has had carb heat issues.  Not sure if its because they draw the air from inside the cowling that is already pretty warm or not, but carb heat is not needed on them.

 

:BC:

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Posted

From what I've heard, it's not impossible to get carb ice in the Bings on a 582, but it apparently isn't a common occurrence.  I believe in Canada a carb heat system is still required on 582 installations.

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Posted

I never liked the heat muff system on the certified engines because there was always the danger of Carbon monoxide coming into the cabin - I got it once, and the trip to the hospital was a real pain - That's one reason, besides money, that I am using the Subaru with water-heat, but guess the 2 cycles don't put as much heat into the cooling system.

EDMO

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Posted

I have a CO2 monitor in mine.  Once I broke 2 exhaust springs and it turned blacker than the ace of spades in about 2 minutes flat.  I tried to set it down on the back side of sleeping lady, but it was a VERY sticky snow day and it felt like I was landing on sand paper, I powered up and went back to the skys.  I flew the next hour with the door open at sub zero temps... Glad I wear what I plan on crashing in during the winter.  With that said, I never have had issues with the muff heat, only the one time the exhaust springs broke and I got CO@ in the cabin through the firewall around the boot cowl.

 

The 2 strokes make lotsa engine heat but to get a large enough radiator in the cabin and a big enough fan to move the air through it, your talking about lotsa weight and lotsa amp draw to get the same heat I get for under a pound using the heat muff.

 

:BC:

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Posted (edited)

Oh - I didn't understand that the chainsaw engines make CO2, or CO@ ?? instead of CO like "real" engines!

Just couldn't resist getting you on that Leni - :lol:

Oh-Oh, Now I may get canned or banned! Ha!

EDMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Ed,

I don't know how well it's going to work, but I decided to try an oil cooler that I got from a car parts catalog that measures 2" thick, by 5" wide, by 10" long.  The water is routed by using those "Y" fittings we used to use on tank heaters before block heaters became popular.  The water is controlled by a cable operated heater control valve that I also picked up from a parts catalog.  To move the air, I picked up a coupl of 5" square computer fans, one blowing up, the other blowing down.  The one blowing up goes through a 4" hose that I have coming out the pilots side of the glare sheild.  The other fan just blows down onto the floor in the middle of the cockpit.  It's all mounted behind the firewall with fittings to connect the heater hoses to what would normally be the bottom of the cooler.  I have the shut-off vale in the inlet line to the cooler.  It's all controlled by 2 switches and a push-pull cable mounted on the panel.  Like I said, I'm not sure how well it will work, it's just my way of approaching the issue.

 

Jackak

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Posted

Jack, that is exactly how mine was heated when I first got the plane.  But it added 10+ pounds that I didn't want.  It was reported to have worked well though!

 

Ed, ya got me... CO.. my fingers are too damn fast for my brain at times.

 

:BC:

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Posted

Ed,

I don't know how well it's going to work, but I decided to try an oil cooler that I got from a car parts catalog that measures 2" thick, by 5" wide, by 10" long.  The water is routed by using those "Y" fittings we used to use on tank heaters before block heaters became popular.  The water is controlled by a cable operated heater control valve that I also picked up from a parts catalog.  To move the air, I picked up a coupl of 5" square computer fans, one blowing up, the other blowing down.  The one blowing up goes through a 4" hose that I have coming out the pilots side of the glare sheild.  The other fan just blows down onto the floor in the middle of the cockpit.  It's all mounted behind the firewall with fittings to connect the heater hoses to what would normally be the bottom of the cooler.  I have the shut-off vale in the inlet line to the cooler.  It's all controlled by 2 switches and a push-pull cable mounted on the panel.  Like I said, I'm not sure how well it will work, it's just my way of approaching the issue.

 

Jackak

Sounds like you may have your ducks in a row - Let us know how it comes out - Leni says you are going to add about 10 lbs to the plane - The commercial heater with two blowers that I am using is about 13 lbs without hoses, and there may be some lighter ones around - At least they say that mine will run you out of a rag-top jeep, and it comes with two defroster hoses and outlets. I love to fly in the winter, but hate not being able to see the runway on takeoff because of frost on the windshield.

I have another of these for sale - new, in box.

EDMO

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Posted

If you have the radiators in the cowling it is pretty easy just to make a collector for 2" SCAT hose that goes behind the radiator(s) and covers about 1/2 of them.  Then run these into the cabin for heat in the winter.  I remove my collectors in the suummer and put them in in the winter.

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Posted

If you have the radiators in the cowling it is pretty easy just to make a collector for 2" SCAT hose that goes behind the radiator(s) and covers about 1/2 of them.  Then run these into the cabin for heat in the winter.  I remove my collectors in the suummer and put them in in the winter.

Free heat, no electric drain and little weight gain - Sounds like the best of everything!

EDMO

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Posted (edited)

I cant believe you are going to let this slip by or up the bid by advertising, unless you don't want it ?

EDMO

Whoops - That one on the site was a 912 heater - NOT a 582 like on ebay!!!!

Guessing, that the 912 heater would be bigger than the 582...

ED

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Gents -

 

Thanks for the replies/feedback. I didn't stop to think of weight ramifications. The idea of collectors ducting directly off the back of my two radiators in the nose seems the best solution. I just need to come up w/a way to duct it into the cabin and modulate it. That seems the challenging part. I have everything apart FWF - nows the time to do this. Hmmmm.......easy solution on ebay.

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Posted

Ed,

I don't know how well it's going to work, but I decided to try an oil cooler that I got from a car parts catalog that measures 2" thick, by 5" wide, by 10" long.  The water is routed by using those "Y" fittings we used to use on tank heaters before block heaters became popular.  The water is controlled by a cable operated heater control valve that I also picked up from a parts catalog.  To move the air, I picked up a coupl of 5" square computer fans, one blowing up, the other blowing down.  The one blowing up goes through a 4" hose that I have coming out the pilots side of the glare sheild.  The other fan just blows down onto the floor in the middle of the cockpit.  It's all mounted behind the firewall with fittings to connect the heater hoses to what would normally be the bottom of the cooler.  I have the shut-off vale in the inlet line to the cooler.  It's all controlled by 2 switches and a push-pull cable mounted on the panel.  Like I said, I'm not sure how well it will work, it's just my way of approaching the issue.

 

Jackak

 

Jack-

 

I have the Earl's cooler with 2 fans in my KF4, cabin, both directing airflow down. I really like the idea of ducting one for defrost, let us know how that works in the real world. I was rather surprised at how much heat it generates and I'm sure it would work even better if I plumbed in a thermostat.

post-53-0-22056300-1376234086_thumb.jpg

post-53-0-44473800-1376234087_thumb.jpg

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Posted

If anyone on here buys this heater, please give us a report on the size, weight, and hopefully, how well it works, and if it has defroster.

Thanks,

EDMO

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Posted

Well..........Thanks to HighCountry's posting, I bid and won the fleabay listing. My thinking was this would be simpler as close to plug and play as possible than fabing up radiator air/scat hose/dist-box. But d'uh......it didn't occur to me till after the bid/purchase -- how much current will the fan draw?  Oh well we shall see. I'm concerned now about exceeding the specd 12.8 582 alternator output.

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Posted

Congrats on winning the bid - Since this was made just for the 582, I would think the draw would be OK, if you don't have other heavy current users, like landing lights. You may have to turn off the blower to turn on the lights, etc.

Looking forward to the specs and maybe a photo of this in your bird.

EDMO

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Posted

Doug,

 

I'll let you know how it works, with luck I'll get to use it this winter.

 

Jack

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Posted (edited)

Congrats on winning the bid - Since this was made just for the 582, I would think the draw would be OK, if you don't have other heavy current users, like landing lights. You may have to turn off the blower to turn on the lights, etc.

Looking forward to the specs and maybe a photo of this in your bird.

EDMO

Don't look for it anytime soon Ed. The FWF of this C HH is torn apart and as I dig deeper into this new acquisition I find more stuff under the panel I don't like (eg. wiring looking like spaghetti everywhere and tube fuses stuck up under the glareshield where they couldn't be readily accessed). That will be a source of topic for another thread. Stay tuned. I suspect I'll be needing lots of help from the collective on this project as I work toward it's airworthiness.

 

Presently I'd like to look over folks examples of wiring diagrams if anyone has any to share or can point me to a good thread or linky.  I'm needing to establish an updated buss and circuit protection.  I'm running only a xpndr, vintage Garmin 100, Whelen nav/strobes, intercom and pwr to KX99 not to mention this heater/fan acquisition.

 

Likely to go this route for circuit protection:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

 

But as I said - need to start a new or join another thread.

 

Thanks all,

 

Paul in NC

Edited by allonsye

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Posted

I am liking that fuse box!  Will be a nice clean install!  I think I may order one for my new panel!  Thanks for the link to it

 

:BC:

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Posted

My concerns over drawing too much current pretty much went away with the advent of LED lighting.  I converted my position lights with plug in replacement bulbs and purchased a LED landing light.  I have a computer muffin fan on my cabin heater which is pretty efficient as well.

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Posted (edited)

OK, now that I got it. Anyone want it?  I occured to me after the fact, gee......I could use my m/c heated gear. don't really need a heater afterall.  It's a dandy lil unit. $125 or best offer plus shipping.

Edited by allonsye

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Posted

I would prefer traditional c/b's but everthing is pretty spendy out there.

 

I'm going to start a new thread on wiring.

 

I am liking that fuse box!  Will be a nice clean install!  I think I may order one for my new panel!  Thanks for the link to it

 

:BC:

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Posted

OK, now that I got it. Anyone want it?  I occured to me after the fact, gee......I could use my m/c heated gear. don't really need a heater afterall.  It's a dandy lil unit. $125 or best offer plus shipping.

How about a size and weight post on it, and can you hook it to a battery and test it?

Does this only have one speed?

EDMO

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